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Post by jlafrenz on Apr 3, 2013 18:42:55 GMT -5
OK, Jlafrenz - Another stupid question, please. Without guidance from the manufacturer, exactly how tall should the speaker stands be. Obviously, this will vary with the height of the speaker. I've read previously that the "goal" should be to place the tweeter(s) at ear level. This advice, however, is contradicted by some reviews that say that for best integration, the tweeter should be below/above the listening level. I'm presuming that for a d'Appolito configuration (mid - tweeter - mid) the "tweeter at ear level" advice is universally accurate? How close does the alignment need be? Does plus or minus an inch / three inches / a foot really matter? Obviously, If I'm to invest the time in stand building, I don't want to have to adjust height several times to "get it right." Thanks - Boomzilla PS: I'm asking primarily because I've not had much experience with stand-mounted speakers. All my previous experience has been with floor-standers where this question doesn't so much come up. Like deltadube said... you might need to experiment a bit. I built mine so that the tweeter is at ear level. The best way to do this is sit in your seat naturally and have someone measure to your ear. You will also want to take into account any spikes or feet you may use for the stands. Commercially available stands seem to typically be 22-28 inches. I am sure there are some companies out there that have stands outside those parameters. |
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Apr 3, 2013 21:12:27 GMT -5
I put my JBL ES30 surrounds on home made heavy hardwood stands that are 26" tall to the base that the speaker sits on (26.25" including the rubber feet on the base bottom!). That puts the tweeters within ear height +/-6" for all seating positions, and the sound is glorious...
For HT systems, Jim Smith (of "Get Better Sound" fame) recommends all speaker's tweeters in your system definitely be +/- 18" from each other, in other words, Center, R, L, & Surrounds, (but the center speaker always seems to be the toughest to integrate). And also to be within +/-12" of all listener's ear height. General and somewhat wide ranges given, but it seems to work really well.
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 5, 2013 14:46:54 GMT -5
JLAFRENZ:
Is the top cap of the stand used to "compress" the center PVC tube, or is a separate washer and nut used below the top cap to avoid tensioning the (less than full-thickness) plywood around the threaded rod?
I'm thinking that if a guest should lean on a speaker, the weak point in the stand is the threaded rod to caps joint. Should the plywood break there, the entire top cap (with speaker) might fall.
To avoid a "weak point" on my bottom cap, I didn't indent the rod nut. Instead, I'll use "feet" under the bottom plate to keep the rod or nut from touching the floor. On the top cap, however, I don't want the speaker on points - I want full contact with the support plate. Therefore, I had to indent the nut and washer for the top cap.
Am I just fretting too much about this? My stands, unlike most I see here, are a full 32 inches tall (30 inch post + 1.5 inches of top/bottom caps +0.5 inches of "feet" under the bottom cap). My speakers are also relatively heavy, bumping 30#. I could have used a "two pipe" stand, but for economy opted to try first with the single.
I'm hoping that the sand-fill on the 3" pipe will avoid "tipsiness." I'm also hoping that the 15" x 15" base plate I used will add more stability. If you've any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Thanks - Boomzilla
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Post by jlafrenz on Apr 5, 2013 17:20:54 GMT -5
The purpose of the top nut is to compress the PVC pipe. There really isn't a way to tighten it down with another washer and nut below it and the top would always be wobbly.
You don't necessarily have to recess the washer and nut on the bottom side. As long as your feet are taller and the stand is not balancing on the thread rod, you are good to go. Recessing it is more for looks.
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 5, 2013 20:15:04 GMT -5
Thanks. Next problem - Thought I was buying flat black paint for tubes, got gloss instead. Looks as bad as me! Thinking of covering posts in stretch fabric with a print? Too gaudy?
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Post by jlafrenz on Apr 5, 2013 23:11:03 GMT -5
Thanks. Next problem - Thought I was buying flat black paint for tubes, got gloss instead. Looks as bad as me! Thinking of covering posts in stretch fabric with a print? Too gaudy? Just pick up some textured paint and spray over what you have already done. Do a couple of thin coats and it will turn out nice. |
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Post by jason05216 on Oct 6, 2017 13:52:59 GMT -5
Any chance of posting these pictures again on something besides photobucket? They've really screwed up a lot of older posts on several of the forums I like.
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Post by SteveH on Jun 8, 2019 15:14:44 GMT -5
I could not find speakers stands to fit my needs to accommodate a pair of Definitive Technology AW-6500 surround speakers. The closest I could find were $400 for the pair and the purchased stands still would have needed modifications to fit my installation. I purchased custom cut steel, took it to a welder for welding. I got myself an excellent pair of custom made speakers stands for $240 plus my minimal amount of labor, drilling/tapping/painting. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by leonski on Jan 22, 2020 20:42:23 GMT -5
Decent, Basic stand
I'd only add ONE thing before starting on an all-new design.
Use Schedule 80 tube, not anything lighter like schedule 40.
Wall thickness is about 0.300" and weight about 2lb per foot.
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Post by leonski on Nov 19, 2023 18:33:16 GMT -5
OK, Jlafrenz - Another stupid question, please. Without guidance from the manufacturer, exactly how tall should the speaker stands be. Obviously, this will vary with the height of the speaker. I've read previously that the "goal" should be to place the tweeter(s) at ear level. This advice, however, is contradicted by some reviews that say that for best integration, the tweeter should be below/above the listening level. I'm presuming that for a d'Appolito configuration (mid - tweeter - mid) the "tweeter at ear level" advice is universally accurate? How close does the alignment need be? Does plus or minus an inch / three inches / a foot really matter? Obviously, If I'm to invest the time in stand building, I don't want to have to adjust height several times to "get it right." Thanks - Boomzilla PS: I'm asking primarily because I've not had much experience with stand-mounted speakers. All my previous experience has been with floor-standers where this question doesn't so much come up. I was always told to 'Measure Once......Cut Twice'......Or something like that....... |
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Post by leonski on Nov 19, 2023 20:57:46 GMT -5
I THINK I see an opportunity to make a unique product.
Speaker stands are a natural and if built right, can easily accept some custom features.
Built to height? Easy. Speaker base? name the size.
I have a test to run first......and see if I can DO what I think I can do......I'm already considering plan 'B' and 'C'.......
the rest is straightforward
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 19, 2023 22:54:28 GMT -5
Best ones I’ve seen are metal with adjustable height - buy the ONE set of stands and you’re set for any speakers you may get - now or in the future!
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Post by leonski on Nov 20, 2023 1:04:22 GMT -5
HMMM.....I could make an adjustable feature.....maybe some height +- 2 inches......?
But I'm interested in Mass and Inert. Metal 'rings' and many of the DIY guys STILL talk about LEAD shot fill.
Lead, IMO, is not a good thing, being somewhat TOXIC if mishandled......20 years down the line, some unknown
person gets your now......scrapable stands and does the wrong thing.
Last DIY project in the kitchen...? I installed LED 4' tubes in place of Fluorescent. Tags included, warning about
wiring and voltage....NO BALLAST...that sort of thing.....Good luck disposing of the OLD Fluorescent tubes!
Another OPTION? Spikes or special 'footers'.......Can be used for Carpet / flooring over SLAB.
Or some kind of suspended flooring.....on flooring joists and over piles or a Basement. Sometimes I WISH
I had a basement. Most in California do NOT....
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 10,273
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Post by KeithL on Nov 20, 2023 11:16:14 GMT -5
I was about to say that lead is really not such a big deal... But, since you're in California, for a fluorescent tube they'd probably block off the street and send out a team of specially trained guys in HazMat suits... (I don't know if you can even buy lead shot in California these days.) HOWEVER, if you really want to splurge, you could use tungsten shot or granules. (Tungsten is denser than lead, but tungsten shot goes for about $30/pound, and a pound isn't much.) Alternately, plain clean sand works pretty well for filling and damping structural tube, or sand mixed with liquid rubber potting compound (that hardens). If you're going to use something cheap like sand then use nice heavy tubing so there's room for it. Incidentally, if you want vibration damping between things, like between a speaker and the stand, get yourself some Sorbothane (or the generic equivalent). You can buy Sorbothane feet... and it comes in sheets that can be used to line things... or sandwiched between the layers of a base. note1: Sorbothane is a really squishy form of urethane, with a lot of plasticizer, so it will actually "bleed" plasticizer into porous surfaces, and mar some finished surfaces. note2: Sorbothane feet have a weight rating - per foot or block used - and should be used between about 1/2 and 2/3 of that rating (it needs to squish to work - it really does not work as well if you use feet above or below their weight rating) HMMM.....I could make an adjustable feature.....maybe some height +- 2 inches......? But I'm interested in Mass and Inert. Metal 'rings' and many of the DIY guys STILL talk about LEAD shot fill. Lead, IMO, is not a good thing, being somewhat TOXIC if mishandled......20 years down the line, some unknown person gets your now......scrapable stands and does the wrong thing. Last DIY project in the kitchen...? I installed LED 4' tubes in place of Fluorescent. Tags included, warning about wiring and voltage....NO BALLAST...that sort of thing.....Good luck disposing of the OLD Fluorescent tubes! Another OPTION? Spikes or special 'footers'.......Can be used for Carpet / flooring over SLAB. Or some kind of suspended flooring.....on flooring joists and over piles or a Basement. Sometimes I WISH I had a basement. Most in California do NOT.... |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Nov 20, 2023 12:02:34 GMT -5
I was about to say that lead is really not such a big deal... But, since you're in California, for a fluorescent tube they'd probably block off the street and send out a team of specially trained guys in HazMat suits... (I don't know if you can even buy lead shot in California these days.) HOWEVER, if you really want to splurge, you could use tungsten shot or granules. (Tungsten is denser than lead, but tungsten shot goes for about $30/pound, and a pound isn't much.) Alternately, plain clean sand works pretty well for filling and damping structural tube, or sand mixed with liquid rubber potting compound (that hardens). If you're going to use something cheap like sand then use nice heavy tubing so there's room for it. Incidentally, if you want vibration damping between things, like between a speaker and the stand, get yourself some Sorbothane (or the generic equivalent). You can buy Sorbothane feet... and it comes in sheets that can be used to line things... or sandwiched between the layers of a base. note1: Sorbothane is a really squishy form of urethane, with a lot of plasticizer, so it will actually "bleed" plasticizer into porous surfaces, and mar some finished surfaces. note2: Sorbothane feet have a weight rating - per foot or block used - and should be used between about 1/2 and 2/3 of that rating (it needs to squish to work - it really does not work as well if you use feet above or below their weight rating) HMMM.....I could make an adjustable feature.....maybe some height +- 2 inches......? But I'm interested in Mass and Inert. Metal 'rings' and many of the DIY guys STILL talk about LEAD shot fill. Lead, IMO, is not a good thing, being somewhat TOXIC if mishandled......20 years down the line, some unknown person gets your now......scrapable stands and does the wrong thing. Last DIY project in the kitchen...? I installed LED 4' tubes in place of Fluorescent. Tags included, warning about wiring and voltage....NO BALLAST...that sort of thing.....Good luck disposing of the OLD Fluorescent tubes! Another OPTION? Spikes or special 'footers'.......Can be used for Carpet / flooring over SLAB. Or some kind of suspended flooring.....on flooring joists and over piles or a Basement. Sometimes I WISH I had a basement. Most in California do NOT.... I second Sorbothane. I used 4 feet beteen a Directv DVR that vibrated and my audio stand. The difference was unbelievable. Without it, you felt vibrations in the stand, with the feet there were none. To prevent marring of the furniture, I placed thin, cheap coasters under the Sorbothane. |
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Post by leonski on Nov 20, 2023 15:00:44 GMT -5
I was about to say that lead is really not such a big deal... But, since you're in California, for a fluorescent tube they'd probably block off the street and send out a team of specially trained guys in HazMat suits... (I don't know if you can even buy lead shot in California these days.) HOWEVER, if you really want to splurge, you could use tungsten shot or granules. (Tungsten is denser than lead, but tungsten shot goes for about $30/pound, and a pound isn't much.) Alternately, plain clean sand works pretty well for filling and damping structural tube, or sand mixed with liquid rubber potting compound (that hardens). If you're going to use something cheap like sand then use nice heavy tubing so there's room for it. Incidentally, if you want vibration damping between things, like between a speaker and the stand, get yourself some Sorbothane (or the generic equivalent). You can buy Sorbothane feet... and it comes in sheets that can be used to line things... or sandwiched between the layers of a base. note1: Sorbothane is a really squishy form of urethane, with a lot of plasticizer, so it will actually "bleed" plasticizer into porous surfaces, and mar some finished surfaces. note2: Sorbothane feet have a weight rating - per foot or block used - and should be used between about 1/2 and 2/3 of that rating (it needs to squish to work - it really does not work as well if you use feet above or below their weight rating) HMMM.....I could make an adjustable feature.....maybe some height +- 2 inches......? But I'm interested in Mass and Inert. Metal 'rings' and many of the DIY guys STILL talk about LEAD shot fill. Lead, IMO, is not a good thing, being somewhat TOXIC if mishandled......20 years down the line, some unknown person gets your now......scrapable stands and does the wrong thing. Last DIY project in the kitchen...? I installed LED 4' tubes in place of Fluorescent. Tags included, warning about wiring and voltage....NO BALLAST...that sort of thing.....Good luck disposing of the OLD Fluorescent tubes! Another OPTION? Spikes or special 'footers'.......Can be used for Carpet / flooring over SLAB. Or some kind of suspended flooring.....on flooring joists and over piles or a Basement. Sometimes I WISH I had a basement. Most in California do NOT....
TWO things in play here. MASS......call it weight, if you wish and RIGIDITY.
Sure, LEAD might not be that big a deal. But fast forward a couple decades and the stand AND LEAD are now out of your control.
No guarantees as to treatment or handling and no guarantee that anybody CARES.
Tungsten (wolfram?) IS quite a bit more dense than Lead. Use a solid Tungsten ROD for a stand leg? SURE! Have fun drilling
for threads or other machining. Mix a powder or granule with expanding foam or cement? Good job! I'm noodling thru CEMENT. At about 150lb per cubic foot? A length of 2 feet / 24 Inches of 4" PVC? I'd guess that cylinder would go 26lb. Using 3 for a 'tripod' stand? With wood, fasteners and other hardware? Each stand of 24" height would go about 90lb....... Heavy enough? I think 3" PVC which goes over 7lb per foot....filled with cement....would also be useful..... PVC also comes in 3 1/2" which would go over 10lb per foot, also cement filled. I'm not sure about some uses for LEAD. I know when I was a kid, Lead was IT for shotshells....Ducks / Geese and Clay Pigeons....Wetlands have measureable amounts of lead from countless shotgun shots....... New shells? a lot of STEEL SHOT. This rusts away but doesn't have near the retained energy or 'carry' of lead. I suspect Tungsten Shot could be made....but the cost would be Off The Charts.......and probably destroy your shotgun barrel in under 100 rounds......OOOPS www.ballisticproducts.com/SpheroTungsten/products/913/Sorry, wasnt' Joking..... |
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Post by 405x5 on Nov 20, 2023 18:50:43 GMT -5
I suppose 11 years after the fact, it would be interesting to see how those do it yourself speaker stands held up!
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Post by leonski on Nov 20, 2023 22:01:59 GMT -5
I build forever. No compromises in fit or finish or execution or materials. I run 'short loops' before committing to the 'build'.... Right now? I'm noodling thru cement posts.......and trying to figure out a proper MOLD RELEASE to get the cement OUT of the PVC...... The wood part needs only a drill press and MAYBE a table saw.......After I figure out how large to make the top and bottom which are the support and speaker base..... For a COST NO OBJECT piece? I need ACME THREAD Brass Rod.....3/8" is about right..... en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Acme_thread.svgLink for those who do not know Acme Thread from a Roadrunner Cartoon..... |
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Post by leonski on Nov 21, 2023 3:00:22 GMT -5
The purpose of the top nut is to compress the PVC pipe. There really isn't a way to tighten it down with another washer and nut below it and the top would always be wobbly. You don't necessarily have to recess the washer and nut on the bottom side. As long as your feet are taller and the stand is not balancing on the thread rod, you are good to go. Recessing it is more for looks. PVC doesn't 'compress' very well. It is brittle. And the long way? VERY strong. I'd fill tube with CEMENT and run All-Thread thru the center.....in 3 places on the rod? Put nut-washer-nut to secure rod TO the cement.......Washer should be 1 1/4 or so in diameter. SHAKE or VIBRATE the tube to eliminate all air bubbles. Use CASTING cement which has no coarse aggregate. Rod should have ACME Threads. Where rod goes thru the wood? Use a FORSTNER bit which drills a Flat Bottom hole......than you can finish off with the size appropriate to the all-thread....... For top / bottom? Now THERE's something to discuss. If you want? Go off line and I'll elaborate..... |
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