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Post by danny01 on Sept 30, 2013 5:13:16 GMT -5
I haven't seen the OP around here lately. He recently started his own business.
Sent from my HTC6500LVW using proboards
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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 30, 2013 7:45:37 GMT -5
All my UPA-1's and UPA-2's have proper metal RCA's and locking XLR's these days...Only the XPA-1's havent been done yet mainly due to the handling issues and they require much more disassembly to effect the changes. The problem is to do these mods on the processors is hard as there are so many RCA's and they also hold the board in place so it is harder to deal with them all without compromising the board mounting. I hope the XMC-1 will be different....much like the XSP-1 (bar the L7R being swapped over) otherwise it is perfectly equipped - fingers crossed its half way there tho so thats a start...and it has screws for the HDMI to add cable strain reliefs too.  The XSP-1 could perhaps do with a little more spacing horizontally for the upper inputs 3&4 and the proc loops but I can live with it. Using good chunky locking RCA's they can grab on each other. Rethinking High End needs to be taken just a little bit further and then we are all good. See what I mean about your UMC-1 and XMC-1 RCA issues for high end cables grabbing on eachother when you have to tighten or loosen them.  and bigger is even worse!  |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Sept 30, 2013 7:57:22 GMT -5
All my UPA-1's and UPA-2's have proper metal RCA's and locking XLR's these days...Only the XPA-1's havent been done yet mainly due to the handling issues and they require much more disassembly to effect the changes. The problem is to do these mods on the processors is hard as there are so many RCA's and they also hold the board in place so it is harder to deal with them all without compromising the board mounting. I hope the XMC-1 will be different....much like the XSP-1 (bar the L7R being swapped over) otherwise it is perfectly equipped - fingers crossed its half way there tho so thats a start...and it has screws for the HDMI to add cable strain reliefs too. My upa-5 has this issue. The internals have snapped twice on me, but is still electrically connected. I'd like to do the mod. Could you detail the process of replacement? I'm most concerned about how you adjusted the hole in the chassis? |
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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 30, 2013 8:09:37 GMT -5
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Sept 30, 2013 8:15:46 GMT -5
So the new jacks fit into the existing holes?
If so source of jacks?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 30, 2013 8:23:48 GMT -5
I should caution that while I am an experienced hifi repairer the actual effort required is not difficult to do if you can solder and manage some disassembly of your gear (emotiva or other brands for that matter) but you may void your warranty and or damage something - in which case be it on your own head...don't hold others (me) accountable for your own actions. And always do this with the power disconnected from the gear until you have it all back together again. I am in Singapore so that wont help you much if I tell you LHS at SLT  maybe mouser ... link Singapore site but try the USA store sg.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/NYS367-9/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV3OlVHsyQGMddA0Fxm1rN%252bQ%3d  cant promise this is the same exactly but looks pretty close. maybe even better than the ones I used that only had one nut at the rear. you need the 2 plastic washers inside and outside the case and the metal ring then the nut so the earth of the socket is isolated from the chassis. ther REAN can have the ring between the 2 nuts. I used internal wiring cable that is maybe .75mm single strand copper from the board to the connections as its stiff enough to support the board for units like the XPA-5 and others that use the RCA for board mounting strength. I think its about 10mm give or take a mil for the chassis hole on most gear. This is what I used The connector is about 7.8mm and the bit that sits in the hole on the white plastic bit is 9.4mm this stops it moving and isolates it from the edge of the hole. Assemble it in the order as pictured with the chassis between the 2 white plastic washers and the left washer - note the small raised ring that sits in the hole.  |
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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 30, 2013 8:48:56 GMT -5
I use different colours for the different channels too...my UPA-s are all different, red, white, black, yellow and green  I hope this info helps someone not in a position to schlep their kit back to franklin or other places...I do mods to most gear that comes into my workshop that is vintage to improve the oxidised and weak connectors of yesteryear. UPA-2 internals  older luxman pre  Cyrus II 2 different types used.. lower pic is more expensive connector   |
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 10,217
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Post by KeithL on Sept 30, 2013 9:12:31 GMT -5
Just a GENTLE reminder  I just wanted to pop in with a gentle warning here.... Hey - it's your equipment and you can mod it however you like..... BUT.... if you damage it, or render it entirely non-functional, modifying it WILL void your warranty. Strictly speaking, your warranty will otherwise still be OK, but ANY DAMAGE THAT IS CAUSED BY A MODIFICATION, OR AS A RESULT OF A MODIFICATION will have to be repaired at your expense. Also, PLEASE READ THIS VERY CAREFULLY: IF YOU EVER NEED WARRANTY SERVICE ON A PART THAT YOU HAVE MODDED, WE WILL REPAIR IT BACK TO FACTORY STANDARD - AT YOUR EXPENSE. (If that output board that you modded with Tiffanys ever fails, whether because of the mod or not, our warranty repair will be to replace it with an unmodded one; at your expense; since we cannot repair the modded one.) Sorry, but that's the way it is. |
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Post by stads77 on Sept 30, 2013 9:21:45 GMT -5
Keith, I have an XPA-5 that has four very loose rca connectors. If I send it in for service, is it at all possible to pay extra to get tiffany rca's like the new generation has, or are you only able to replace the lose rca's with the standard "crappy" ones? Just a GENTLE reminder I just wanted to pop in with a gentle warning here.... Hey - it's your equipment and you can mod it however you like..... BUT.... if you damage it, or render it entirely non-functional, modifying it WILL void your warranty. Strictly speaking, your warranty will otherwise still be OK, but ANY DAMAGE THAT IS CAUSED BY A MODIFICATION, OR AS A RESULT OF A MODIFICATION will have to be repaired at your expense. Also, PLEASE READ THIS VERY CAREFULLY: IF YOU EVER NEED WARRANTY SERVICE ON A PART THAT YOU HAVE MODDED, WE WILL REPAIR IT BACK TO FACTORY STANDARD - AT YOUR EXPENSE. (If that output board that you modded with Tiffanys ever fails, whether because of the mod or not, our warranty repair will be to replace it with an unmodded one; at your expense; since we cannot repair the modded one.) Sorry, but that's the way it is. Keith, |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Sept 30, 2013 12:05:56 GMT -5
This is such a PITA on the older products that it might be nice to have an approved mod for this one problem. I was thinking about putting a connector on the PCB to replace the solder point so that the PCB could be easily removed at some future point if needed. I know this opens a can of worms in other ways, but the connectors as they exist break VERY easily. Just food for thought! Just a GENTLE reminder I just wanted to pop in with a gentle warning here.... Hey - it's your equipment and you can mod it however you like..... BUT.... if you damage it, or render it entirely non-functional, modifying it WILL void your warranty. Strictly speaking, your warranty will otherwise still be OK, but ANY DAMAGE THAT IS CAUSED BY A MODIFICATION, OR AS A RESULT OF A MODIFICATION will have to be repaired at your expense. Also, PLEASE READ THIS VERY CAREFULLY: IF YOU EVER NEED WARRANTY SERVICE ON A PART THAT YOU HAVE MODDED, WE WILL REPAIR IT BACK TO FACTORY STANDARD - AT YOUR EXPENSE. (If that output board that you modded with Tiffanys ever fails, whether because of the mod or not, our warranty repair will be to replace it with an unmodded one; at your expense; since we cannot repair the modded one.) Sorry, but that's the way it is. |
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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 30, 2013 12:08:31 GMT -5
Like i said its at your own risk. Most of the gear i mod is out of warranty ... Many many years out of warranty even. I've broken enough rca's on gear that its a default thing on gear i move about a lot to do them as a precaution. The emo amps are pretty easy ... A lot easier than most.
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