Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 8, 2012 12:57:50 GMT -5
So what you guys are saying, is that I probably shouldn't have just stripped the wires and shoved them directly into the wall socket??? Oh Oh spaghetti-o's !! LOL
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Jul 8, 2012 13:00:27 GMT -5
So what you guys are saying, is that I probably shouldn't have just stripped the wires and shoved them directly into the wall socket??? Oh Oh spaghetti-o's !! LOL And don't forget to bypass the circuit breaker box and hard-wire to the mains. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 8, 2012 13:06:03 GMT -5
So what you guys are saying, is that I probably shouldn't have just stripped the wires and shoved them directly into the wall socket??? Oh Oh spaghetti-o's !! LOL And don't forget to bypass the circuit breaker box and hard-wire to the mains. Ya that is my next step but I didn't have any extra wire around, so I used coat hangers and soldered them straight to the main line! awww ya. Is it bad that the coat hangers turn red and smoke??? |
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Post by briank on Jul 8, 2012 13:09:32 GMT -5
Good point but you hinted at an even more important point earlier. The XPR might work fine and without problems on a 15 amp circuit with an adaptor, however, if it were to cause a fire and burn your house down, your insurance company would very likely not cover your home if you do something against code or against the requirements as indicated on household applicances including amps. Not to mention endangering your family. Yes, I work in insurance and as an underwriter I would cancel the insureds policy if they were making any modifications against code or against equipment requiirements. So just spend the few hundred dollars for a licensed electrician to safely run your 20 amp circuits so you can maximize the potential of your new amp and not worry about any safety issues or insurance coverage problems.  If you are using an adaptor or doing any "funny" modifications to make it work, please pm me your name and homeowners policy number. ;D Brian, I'm pretty sure you are referring to "jordo", but just to be clear, I have not in any way suggested using any piece of equipment that is manufactured to run at its optimum on a 20a circuit, to be used primarily on a 15a circuit. Just making this clear as I will only plug an XPR series power amplifier, when I do own one, into a dedicated 20a circuit.  Ya, I was referring to Jordo's quote but adding to your response(if that makes any sense  ) I move into my new house on August 10th and I did have two dedicated two amp circuits ran to the family room so were good to go. |
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Post by briank on Jul 8, 2012 13:10:47 GMT -5
So what you guys are saying, is that I probably shouldn't have just stripped the wires and shoved them directly into the wall socket??? Oh Oh spaghetti-o's !! LOL And don't forget to bypass the circuit breaker box and hard-wire to the mains. Or if your house is old and still on glass fuses, just shove some pennies in the fuse box. ;D |
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Post by edoggrc51 on Jul 8, 2012 13:16:07 GMT -5
This is same power cord the came with my Cinenova. Most of this thread has been about electrical talk, and rightly so, but one thing that has not been brought up is the speakers that will be used with the amp. If you're going to be using some power hungry speakers than you might need to upgrade your electrical, otherwise I'd just order the above cable and call it a day. |
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jamrock
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Post by jamrock on Jul 8, 2012 16:55:42 GMT -5
A XPR-5 demo at Emofest could be set up to show the practical power usage of this amp, then members could judge for themselves whether a 20A circuit is practicably required for this amp. That will never happen. Emotiva would open up itself to potential exposure should someone's home catches fire. Worse, if there is loss of life involved. The amp is specified for 20A supply line. Plug it into a bonafide 20A receptacle. Do any alternative at your own risk. My amplifiers and subwoofers are plugged into 20A wall outlets. My surge protector is plugged into a dedicated 15A outlet and all other components, including the TV, are plugged into the SP. Both the 20A & 15A lines are dedicated to my H/T ONLY. Nothing else is juiced from their circuits. BTW, if you can afford to, no equipment that uses a motor or a dimmer should share your H/T lines |
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Post by geebo on Jul 8, 2012 17:31:05 GMT -5
Since there are no amplifiers with 100% efficiency, (that I know of) I wonder what the actual power consumption would be of an XPR-5 running at 400x5.
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Post by ekdream on Jul 8, 2012 19:56:38 GMT -5
Thank you so much for your kind advice. I made you proud. Another Depot trip and few extra minutes... I think it looks clean... I am all set now..., I also verified, the outlet is connected through 12/2 wire straight from panel on 20A breaker... wondering why the technicians did not out 10A outlet to begin with,... Anyway, now, I am going to be focusing on actually enjoying the new amp.. you guys are great... great forum and thanks again guys.. So you are suggesting that I do not need one with GFI, just a normal 20A outlet be suffice? Since there is no water or stuff short circuiting, the GFi here may not be needed... costs 1/3 too. I will appreciate your insight. Thanks. Dude you DO NOT WANT GFCI as the GFCI circuit could possibly introduce electrical noise and cause other issues. Here is a tip... AVOID CHEAP DIMMERS as some cause just BRUTAL ELECTRICAL NOISE into your AC. If you're redoing the electrical I'd take a look at an APC conditioner/filter. 90% of the products in that market are complete BS but I can give a BIG THUMBS UP for the APC G50B-20A2. www.apc.com/products/apcav/products/index.cfm?action=detail&base_sku=G50B-20A2For a 100 bucks more you can get a network managed one that has an HTTP server and network control. $275-400 bucks on a deal... It comes with a cool little LED flashlight that fits in the front panel for use when farting around behind your gear. VERY HANDY and thoughtful design element IMHO... I love little engineering stuff like that... shows the EE's really cared about the design. That G50B-20A2 is a NATURAL ACCESSORY for the XPR-5 IMHO... It's like pepper on a toasted tomato sandwich IMHO... A MUST PS GET THIS BOOK FOR HOME ELECTRICAL! ISBN - 13: 978-1-58923-213-6 Attachments:
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floss
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Post by floss on Jul 8, 2012 21:49:20 GMT -5
Thread should be now called "Show off your 20A receptacles!"  Here's a 2x20A  Got a great deal on 12/3 Romex (the run was actually less than 100' so I stuck with 12/3) and the electrician had to squeeze through several meters of dirty, dusty, and spider infested attic crawl space. I dropped him a hefty tip. Install went perfectly, thanks for all the help! Ordering an XPR-5 tonight. |
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floss
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Post by floss on Jul 8, 2012 22:09:23 GMT -5
Also, this is the type of cable I need to connect from the RCA inputs of the XPR-5 to the pre-outs of a Denon 4311CI receiver, correct? |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Jul 8, 2012 22:16:54 GMT -5
Also, this is the type of cable I need to connect from the RCA inputs of the XPR-5 to the pre-outs of a Denon 4311CI receiver, correct? Yes those BlueJeans RCA's will work, so will the Emotiva X-Series RCA Interconnects. |
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Post by Gary Cook on Jul 8, 2012 22:44:02 GMT -5
We have 230/250 volts @ 50 hz in Australia, so would a normal 10 amp power point be OK ?
Cheers
Gary
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Post by Jim on Jul 8, 2012 23:02:27 GMT -5
We have 230/250 volts @ 50 hz in Australia, so would a normal 10 amp power point be OK ? Cheers Gary Should be fine - supply wise. Not sure what Emo is doing in terms of power cords for non-american outlets.. EDIT: I was wrong, 20A is required regardless of country. |
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floss
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Post by floss on Jul 8, 2012 23:04:10 GMT -5
Also, this is the type of cable I need to connect from the RCA inputs of the XPR-5 to the pre-outs of a Denon 4311CI receiver, correct? Yes those BlueJeans RCA's will work, so will the Emotiva X-Series RCA Interconnects. Thanks, those Emotiva ones look nice but I need 10 foot runs. |
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Post by solarrdadd on Jul 9, 2012 9:13:24 GMT -5
Thread should be now called "Show off your 20A receptacles!" Here's a 2x20A Got a great deal on 12/3 Romex (the run was actually less than 100' so I stuck with 12/3) and the electrician had to squeeze through several meters of dirty, dusty, and spider infested attic crawl space. I dropped him a hefty tip. Install went perfectly, thanks for all the help! Ordering an XPR-5 tonight. OK, you've shown me yours,  now I'll show you mine!  125v 20a IG, HG, TVSS receptacle (decora style) feeding a standard 20a (decora style) outlet and a couple of others around the corner.  rough in for the other two receptacles around the corner and a cable tv, ethernet CAT6 & phone line drop too. gear was temporarily plugged into an existing outlet over top of the new quad shown in the picture above. notice the blue outlet.  finished install for the other two receptacles around the corner and the cable drop. a total of 4 receptacles are on my 20a circuit for all my a/v gear. seperating them from anything else in the house so no interference from other things. my two amps (XPA-5, UPA-2) and sub X-REF 12 get plugged directly into the wall outles, everything else goes through a 1500va UPS with AVR. ok, who's next in this community slideshow! |
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Post by solarrdadd on Jul 9, 2012 9:41:28 GMT -5
LC, I've always had the perception that "maxing out" a circuit panel is generally a bad idea and that tandem breakers, although legal, are a no-no. I would recommend following Solidstate's advice and add a subpanel. Going the full gamut of isolated grounds, although advisable, is up to you, but I would definitely recommend considering the addition of a subpanel in your case. I did a bit of investigating on "tandem breakers" yesterday after getting all the supplies for these two dedicated lines. Knowing that I only had one breaker slot left the electrician still suggested I get the 20-20 tandem. Yesterday I read more than I care to on this subject and while I understand that my CTL rated panel either will or won't allow the tandem breaker because of the built-in safety fit, the panel maker, SquareD, only shows that one more breaker slot is available and doesn't say whether a tandem is allowed. Having said that, the NEC, UL and the manufacturers of these CTL rated panel have said tandem breakers are very much safe even though the panel itself is made to only accept a defined number of breakers. I came across an article on this subject that has a Formula for the amount of circuits that are allowed on class CTL panelboards. Take the amperage of the panelboard, multiply by the number of poles, and divide by 10. Mine CTL Square D panel happens to be a 125a panelboard with 2 poles, so I'm multilplying the 125a x 2 poles which gives 250 and dividing by 10 and that gives 25. Yet my panel actually only has 24, with the last breaker slot open. www.ashireporter.org/articles/articles.aspx?id=2047What say you "SolarrDadd" & Lonnie and the rest of you that are much more knowledgeable in these matters? I'd definitely like for SolarDad to chime in one way or the other. Nice article there. LC, the bottom line is, if the panelboard is "listed" for tandem or half/slim breaker use it will say two things total number of full or standard sized breakers and total number if tandem or slim breakers are used. for example it might say something like 12/24 spaces. this means 12 full sized breakers or 24 half sized. the bottom line is the installer is supposed to take the necessary precautions by doing the proper panel load analysis to determine if the panel is too loaded to install not just another circuit but a tandem or slim(s) in the panel. this is determined by measuring each phase of the incoming service. whenever i've done this i would always check to see if the house had an electric or gas range. if it had electric range and oven i would turn on the oven and put two pots of water on the large burners and turn them on as well as run the a/c unit while doing this. these would represent the largest electrical loads in the house (unless they have a hot tub and i'd ask to have that turned on). i would use a True RMS current clamp meter and take a reading on both phases & the neutral to see how much current the house is pulling. as long as i had not hit beyond 80% of the service rating, the new circuits were good to go. i also make sure the service conductors were greater than the rating of the panel buss i.e., a 125a panel "idealy" would have conductors rated higher than 125 (but not always) when designing for services we add 125% to the total connected load to calculate for service conductor size. that helps make the statement of "idealy" happen. one thing you could do is with loads energized in the panel, use the backs of your fingers and rub on the face of the circuit breakers, do they feel cool, warm (with load) warm to hot (high load) or hot (reaching the trip limits or not making good contact with the buss). this should tell you something too. look at the wires connected to the breakers, are they discolored, is the insulation bubbling, this means the screw that holds the lug down on the conductor is loose. that breaker needs to be turned off and replaced with proper tightening tourqe applied as per the breaker listing and the panel listings. many things go into this. it's not just as simple as slapping in a new circuit. the other thing is that if the panel OCPD (Over Current Protective Device) i.e. the main breaker or service fused switch in modern homes it's either 100, 150 or 200a rated is sized properly and the service conductors are sized properly and if the panel buss is equal too or larger than the size of the OCPD you will effectively never be able to overload the panel or endanger the buss because you will always trip the main. when you trip the main because of this overcurrent condition but not tripped any branch circuit breakers you have reached beyond the safe limits of loading. in this case you need a larger service. a sub panel would not help in this instance as you will still trip the main service OCPD disconnecting means. sorry, i get going when i get going. hope this wasn't too much information. I work for the government and I'm like Quincy in the electrical world here! one thing that hasn't been touched on here is that some people have Aluminum conductors as branch circuits throughout their homes. this is legal but not done almost at all anymore. if you do have aluminum conductors feeding your circuits, remember you must use or replace existing circuits with receptacles rated for aluminum wiring. you must also terminate those devices with anti-oxidation compound paste. i also recommend that once every 5 years you should have a quick panelboard inspection for "health" especially if you have aluminum conductors throughout your house (not refering to the incoming service) and have electric range, oven and/or heat. thermal imaging would be helpful. check with your insurance as they may give you a discount on your policy for having this done annually. best of luck to everyone. gotta go, to a meeting! and my fingers are killing me! |
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Post by Jim on Jul 9, 2012 9:50:06 GMT -5
I've never seen a TVSS outlet. After googling...very cool!
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floss
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Post by floss on Jul 9, 2012 17:37:42 GMT -5
Those hospgrade recepts look sweet.
To the thread starter or anyone who's received their XPR-5....care to do a brief review of some sort? How's the noise floor on these things...any noticeable hiss through the speakers from a distance?
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Jul 9, 2012 18:12:22 GMT -5
A XPR-5 demo at Emofest could be set up to show the practical power usage of this amp, then members could judge for themselves whether a 20A circuit is practicably required for this amp. BTW, if you can afford to, no equipment that uses a motor or a dimmer should share your H/T lines Does that restriction on 'motors' also hold true for audio equipment cabinet ventilation fans I wonder??? |
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If you are using an adaptor or doing any "funny" modifications to make it work, please pm me your name and homeowners policy number. ;D
) I move into my new house on August 10th and I did have two dedicated two amp circuits ran to the family room so were good to go. 
now I'll show you mine! 
