|
|
Post by The Mad Norseman on Oct 7, 2012 11:10:21 GMT -5
Maybe this question has been posed here before (and if so, I apologize), but I need some experienced advice on the proper way to effectively clean fingerprints, and other crud from Blu-ray and CD discs.
(I buy a lot of used movies & musics on eBay in "Like New" condition, and most are just that, but some others?, well,...).
So for people on this forum who have (successfully) done this, what cleaning methods & materials do you recommend?
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Elliot on Oct 7, 2012 11:29:41 GMT -5
Lenscrafters sells an eyeglass cleaning solution and tissue like cloth cleaning pads.
I have used this combo for about 5 years with great success. I spray the disc and let it set for a minute, use one cloth to remove the solution and then buff with a clean second cloth.
On some rented discs, I swear that people eat their lunch on them they are so dirty!
|
|
stiehl11
Emo VIPs 
Give me available light!
Posts: 7,261
|
Post by stiehl11 on Oct 7, 2012 13:50:54 GMT -5
For all optical disc: take a clean, non-scratching cloth (I use a micro-fiber cloth or Kodak lens tissue), and wipe in a straight line from the center of the disc to the edge. Cleaning solutions are not recommended because the plastic that covers the surface of the media layer of the optical disc has a "treatment" to it similar to plastic headlights (on modern cars). Some cleaners can cause a yellowing of that plastic that, over time, can reduce the amount of information that can be read from the media behind it. This is one reason why optical disc should never be exposed to sunlight on either surface (UV rays will penetrate both layers even if only one side is exposed), excessive heat/cold, or left outside in the elements. Think how quickly your headlights "yellow" and realize that the plastic on your optical disc does not have half the chemicals in it to prevent yellowing that the plastic in your headlights have.
|
|
LCSeminole
Global Moderator 
Res firma mitescere nescit.
Posts: 20,490
|
Post by LCSeminole on Oct 7, 2012 14:15:01 GMT -5
I've always just used a little of my own hot air and wiped off with a very soft cloth. Like Dave suggested, always from center to the outer edge.
|
|
|
|
Post by thepcguy on Oct 7, 2012 14:28:32 GMT -5
I buy a lot of used discs too from Amazon, Craigslist, etc.
I wash them with mild soap.
|
|
|
|
Post by villock on Oct 7, 2012 14:42:11 GMT -5
What's a CD?
|
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Elliot on Oct 7, 2012 15:11:41 GMT -5
....Cleaning solutions are not recommended because the plastic that covers the surface of the media layer of the optical disc has a "treatment" to it similar to plastic headlights (on modern cars)..... As do eyeglasses, which this stuff is meant to clean. I tested a disk by washing it when I first start using this about 2 dozen times. I could detect no residual or color change what so ever to the test disk. The cloth tissues they sell are cotton based and leave no residual material. The micro fiber cloth is very good too. I also clean all my camera gear with this stuff. |
|
|
|
Post by flamingeye on Oct 7, 2012 16:53:49 GMT -5
I use distilled water and micro fiber cloth , center to edge motion
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2012 17:16:35 GMT -5
I have used for about 5 years Meguiars Scratch X2.0 Fine Scratch and Blemish Remover with excellent results. It can be purchased at most auto supply stores like Advance, and Auto Zone. This is my procedure:
1) Wash dish thoroughly with dish washing liquid to remove any grit and dust particles that could further scratch the disk.
2) Dry with a paper towel
3) Apply Meguiars and rub in a "straight line only" from the edge of the disk to the center with a terry cloth. This will take some pressure.
4) Rinse disk thoroughly and "pat dry". Hold disk up to a light and rotate it so that you can see what progress you made and observe if any scratches are left.
5) You may need to repeat this procedure several times to remove the scratches, but I do it in degrees as to remove as little of the disk surface as possible. Sometimes you will still see some scratches left but test the disk in your player anyway. I have found that although some scratches may still be visible their depth has been reduced to the point that the disk works fine. Again, make sure disk in perfectly clean and dry before testing in your player.
Good Luck!
|
|
selkec
Emo VIPs
SCREW YOU GUYS, IM GOING HOME!!!
Posts: 3,779
|
Post by selkec on Oct 7, 2012 17:54:46 GMT -5
hot air. But I never clean center to edge. Just in case something causes a scratch. If you scratch it from center to edge its ruined..... I rotate the disc to clean that way if it does get a scratch somehow it will follow the contour of the disc and therefore also maybe only make one chapter of the movie not play... Ii would rather ruin one chapter that the whole thing  |
|
|
|
Post by The Mad Norseman on Oct 7, 2012 18:19:16 GMT -5
Wow!
A great (and useful) response from all you guys!
Thanks very much, I'll try out a few and report back - much appreciated!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2012 19:13:01 GMT -5
I do professional polyester repair for a number of piano manufacturers. The principle is the same. To remove a scratch you always go across the scratch, not with it. Going with the scratch is ok if you have a lots of extra time on your hands. Lots of info on the web to about this. Do the research.
|
|
stiehl11
Emo VIPs
Give me available light!
Posts: 7,261
|
Post by stiehl11 on Oct 7, 2012 19:40:27 GMT -5
....Cleaning solutions are not recommended because the plastic that covers the surface of the media layer of the optical disc has a "treatment" to it similar to plastic headlights (on modern cars)..... As do eyeglasses, which this stuff is meant to clean. I tested a disk by washing it when I first start using this about 2 dozen times. I could detect no residual or color change what so ever to the test disk. The cloth tissues they sell are cotton based and leave no residual material. The micro fiber cloth is very good too. I also clean all my camera gear with this stuff. You can be extreme and use a buffing wheel if you'd like and (unless you get the temperature too high) you won't see an immediate coloration change. The change is gradual; over time, depending on how much of the protective layer you take off. To get overly technical; it oxidizes. Using a polish (like the Meguiars mentioned above) removes the oxidation but leaves nothing to prevent further oxidation after it is removed. For my camera equipment (which only uses glass; no plastic) I use an alcohol based soap (alsoap) and a microfiber cloth. For my eyeglasses (plastic) I do not use any polishing or chemical cleaner. A good rule of thumb is that if you wouldn't use it on your eyeglasses to see, don't use it on your CD (or optical discs). While on eyeglasses: up until about 2 years ago I had been using my old glasses, bought in 2000. When I got my new glasses there was a noticeable difference in the "color" of the lenses. Both were plastic but in just 8 years the lenses had yellowed... badly. |
|
|
|
Post by Chuck Elliot on Oct 7, 2012 20:40:49 GMT -5
Extreme is sometimes needed! And, frequency is also a keyword here.
Most of my discs CD, DVD and Blu-Ray have never been cleaned. Like most of us, I take care of my media and have items that have never been cleaned in 20 years.
Used and rental are a whole other matter. I've rented discs that look like jr. was eating strawberry jam or waffles while playing them. The most extreme I've gotten is using my water-pic and warm water to blast the crud off.
A one time procedure such as this or a one time application of a eyeglass cleaning solution is not going to damage the disc!
|
|
|
|
Post by deano86 on Oct 7, 2012 20:49:45 GMT -5
hot air. But I never clean center to edge. Just in case something causes a scratch. If you scratch it from center to edge its ruined..... I rotate the disc to clean that way if it does get a scratch somehow it will follow the contour of the disc and therefore also maybe only make one chapter of the movie not play... Ii would rather ruin one chapter that the whole thing Your thought process is totally backwards... the reason for the standard recommendation of wiping/cleaning from center to edge is to lessen the chance of creating a continuous section of unreadable data. If you happen to create a scratch in a line from the center out to the edge, the player can compensate for it, because there is only a tiny section of that track that is damaged. But if the scratch goes in line with a data track going around the disc, it is much more likely to cause an error or skip as there would be a larger sequential area in one track with corrupted data.... |
|
|
|
Post by The Mad Norseman on Oct 7, 2012 20:58:28 GMT -5
I recall someone at a used movie/music store I visited in Madison, WI cleaning these things with a buffing wheel - which I don't think it a good idea.
Yeah, the immediate effect looks good, and it plays well, but (like someone above mentioned), it removes the protective coating - leaving the disc vulnerable to oxidation - which in time makes it unreadable I understand...
These disc's readable surface (I think) is embedded/impressed into a thin metal layer, which in turn is beneath a protective clear coating.
The best cleaning does just that - cleans, w/o damaging that clear protective layer.
Most of what I (we) need is just to effectively remove greasy fingerprints, and smudges and such. Scratches that are deeper are a different animal...some ideas mentioned here are worth trying.
Wonder if that clear protective coating can be restored somehow?
Anyone know what that's made of???
|
|
|
|
Post by flamingeye on Oct 7, 2012 21:33:27 GMT -5
|
|
