New audio fuses

[ludi]

Just over a week ago I was watching the DVD of Hiromi "Live In Marciac". It is a very nice concert of the always smiling Japanese pianist. And it is especially interesting because she is supported by Simon Philips and Anthony Jackson, both two excellent musicians. Not amazingly I was playing at reference volume. I was fiddling a little with the settings of the UMC-1, a little bit more of this and a little less of that. By accident I selected Level Calibration, and instantly the test tone sounded full force from the left-front speaker, at more than reference volume. My wife fell almost from the sofa, I got myself almost a heart attack. It was at most 2 seconds, but it was enough to blow the fuse of left Magnepan 1.7

Luckily I had a spare fuse. These fuses I got when I bought these Magnepans. I never looked at these things. But a close looked revealed the fuses are standard 250V 4A ones. Looking at the very thin metal part I was wondering is this really the best option for optimal sound? I was amazed by the difference of thickness (or better the thinness) of the metal inside the fuse with my speaker cables. The speaker was not damaged, the fuse did a good job on that part, and I was able to watch the rest of the concert.

The next day I searched the internet for fuses and fuse advises. I found several options but I decided to go for a reasonable priced audio fuse from AHP. Although the Hifi Tuning ones looked better and got better reviews, but 3 times more expensive than the AHP was a no-go for me. I found an internet shop that offered a full refund in case you don't like the fuses. So I gave it a try and ordered 3.

I received them a couple of days later and without hesitation I replaced the standard fuses with the new AHP fuses. I put on some music, and yes, it sounded better. Not a difference of day and night, but definitely an improvement. The sound is somewhat more balanced and it has a hint more of crispness.

So no refund for me, the fuses stay! For others with standard fuses in speakers I suggest also to take a look at audio grade fuses, especially because of the relative low costs.

The original fuse and AHP fuse

[gearhead2003]

Just for a reference here is a great chat about it. Glad you are enjoying them. I thought about it and considering how many fuses I would need I chose a no go status. I feel your pain on the calibration accident. I did they two years ago and blew a tweeter on my polks.

[ludi]

Thanks for sharing, I'm not the only one that made such mistake. Feels less lonely

Luckily for me it was only the fuse and not the tweeter. I'm glad the Magnepans have fuses, obviously the Polks go without fuses. On the other hand I think to replace a tweeter in a Polk is less of a problem then replacing a tweeter in a Magnepan. But still it's no fun when something breaks down.

[ocezam]

May 12, 2013 4:44:52 GMT -5 ludi said:

Thanks for sharing, I'm not the only one that made such mistake. Feels less lonely

Luckily for me it was only the fuse and not the tweeter. I'm glad the Magnepans have fuses, obviously the Polks go without fuses. On the other hand I think to replace a tweeter in a Polk is less of a problem then replacing a tweeter in a Magnepan. But still it's no fun when something breaks down.

Depends on what happens to them. I had the drivers completely rebuilt and caps replaced on both of my 1.6's by Magnepan at the factory for about $430 if I remember correctly. I thought that was a reasonable cost.

Magnepan fuses, fuse holders and binding posts are notoriously cheap. They are very often swapped for better "audiophile" parts. Some guys even do without fuses entirely.

Have you spent much time at either the Magnepan users group and/or planer speaker asylum? Great Magnepan info there:

www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/

www.audioasylum.com/forums/MUG/bbs.html


Oh yeah...

I've done the accidentally engage the test tones thing a time or two also. It'll wake you up!


...

[Deleted]

>> I've done the accidentally engage the test tones thing a time or two also. <<

Wow, looks like Emo has a user interface issue that needs to be addressed. There is NO way that someone should be able to accidentally engage potentially speaker-destroying functions in a piece of gear. There should be an intermediary "assent or decline" screen that pops-up before engaging the test tones...

-RW-

[ocezam]

May 12, 2013 9:49:51 GMT -5 @rlw said:

>> I've done the accidentally engage the test tones thing a time or two also. <<

Wow, looks like Emo has a user interface issue that needs to be addressed. There is NO way that someone should be able to accidentally engage potentially speaker-destroying functions in a piece of gear. There should be an intermediary "assent or decline" screen that pops-up before engaging the test tones...

-RW-

I don't own an Emotiva processor. I've done it on both my Yamaha AVR's as well as my current Onkyo. It's a pretty simple mistake, especially when your processor is new and unfamiliar. For instance, with my Onkyo, there are two ways to adjust speaker level on the fly. One method simply puts up a graphic on the screen and lets you adjust each speaker with no test tone. The other method starts a test tone for whatever speaker you have selected and you can adjust by ear. Obviously you don't want to select that method with a high volume. Again easy mistake when unfamiliar with the equipment.

I generally leave my levels at the set positions selected by Audyssey, but I some times I tweak the sub level, and I generally raise the center level a lot when my 90 year old, hearing impaired, mom is over at the house.


...

[ludi]

ocezam: thanks for the links to the Magnepan user groups. I just had a quick look; there is a lot of information available. Have to spend some time to go over all information there.

@rlw: I had the same thought; the unit should automatically limit the volume, or show a warning first before emitting the test tones are full volume.

I did a quick calculation: 4 Amp and 4 ohm is 64 watt, meaning 64 watts of mids and treble is the max the Magnepan safely handles.