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Post by ocezam on Jul 20, 2013 11:23:59 GMT -5
I've got plans for 24 x 21's lol ... |
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Post by phatfos1 on Jul 24, 2013 12:59:24 GMT -5
I am thinking I will go with a passive radiator design for now. If necessary I can use the DSP in the Behringer NU3000DSP to get a little more SP down low. I was able to source 1" Baltic Birch locally in 4x8 for $120. Expensive, I know. I guess I'll need two sheets. I do think I'm going to do a down-firing passive radiator tuned to 20hz. Looks like all in with this amp and a appx 5cf box I'll still be under $2000. Thilo (from TC Sounds) never got back to me on the few questions I had for him, too bad. I had read there was going to be a follow up to the 5400 released "soon" so I wanted a little info on that and his opinion on sealed v. PR v. ported for HT AND music.
Still trying to figure out the finish. The birch is not A grade, so I may just go piano black. I have a buddy who said he can finish it for me and he does some really good work from what I've seen of his other furniture work. I will make sure to post lots of pics once we get started. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully this sub will outperform the PB Ultra because it's going to take some work and cost about the same...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2013 17:53:35 GMT -5
What passives are you gonna use? If you are going to do a piano finish use MFD with a plywood mounting panel, your wasting the whole point of BB (which is to stain it). You box isn't gonna be that big and it's a crazy excursion driver, you're gonna want the extra weight of the MDF.
Thilo gonna tell you not to do a PR design and go sealed and not to use the dsp3000 lol
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Post by phatfos1 on Jul 25, 2013 15:07:07 GMT -5
Why not the dsp 3000? What would he tell me to use? Because whoever is answering his phones gave me his personal email address and he did not respond. And I suppose you're right about the finish, but aren't there other virtues to the birch? The only place I can source 1" (or 1.5") MDF is charging $90 for the 1.5 and the stuff weights 190lbs per 8x4! I do like the idea of using the super heavy 1.5 MDF though. If I did a PR I would use the VMP 18 in a 5.4cf box as per the specs on the TC page. If I went sealed I guess I would only need 2-3cf but a lot more power and EQ to bring the bottom up. I liked the PR because I wouldn't need quite as much power I assume(I can only get so much from my measly outlets).
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2013 18:22:31 GMT -5
BB is great to work with but because it's strong and saves weight but if you're gonna paint it black, it's a waste of money to build with IMO. 1" MDF will be really heavy, don't go with 1.5, it's kinda crappy to work with. 3/4 mdf with double baffled front and back will be plenty strong but 1" is not a bad idea but if you go 5.4 cf box, it's gonna be heavy, around 250 lbs with drivers. My living room sub I built is 1" mdf 3.5 CF box with a mach 5 ixl 15 and it's 155 lbs  Even though you can trick the DSP in the 3000 to go below 20hz, you'd be better of with a 3000 and a minidsp, the eq in the behringers is meh. The minidsp would be a much better route. The actual amp section in the 3000 is ok but it's a little less powerful than the ep4000. I still say go with the CV2500 or 5000. Much better amps. |
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Post by phatfos1 on Jul 26, 2013 10:04:33 GMT -5
I like the 2500 and the 5000. But I did read a few concerns about QC on CV amps. But there are complaints about every amp if you look hard enough. I was thinking of the 1.5MDF in case I went with a smaller box and needed the weight to control it. I wanted to go larger sealed because I can't find an amp that's reasonably priced with enough power to really reach this sub's potential. I think the minidsp is a great idea, def. going to look into that. The only thing I don't like about the CV5000 is that it's not bridgeable (from what I can tell). It would be a while before I could build another one of these, so the 2500 might be the way to go. Thanks so much for all your suggestions. Hopefully going to get started soon...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2013 15:02:58 GMT -5
Yes the CV 5000 is bridgeable: www.cerwinvega.com/pro-audio/high-performance-amplifiers/cv-5000.html. I wouldn't worry about the QC, I know of lots used in DJ setups thats friends have and no issues in the last 5 years. The 2800 bridged would be enough for 1 ultra. Though the 5000 would allow for 2 if at some point you ever did get 2, if thats not a concern, the 2800 is plenty at 2800 watts @ 4ohms. You could also go with 2 UXL 18's right from the start for close to the same price....... |
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Post by BassThatHz on Jul 26, 2013 15:57:26 GMT -5
 Well here is what 4 LMS-18's can do when powered with a full Crown iTech 8000 and half of a Lab FP10000Q amp. Keep in mind my meter is C-weighted so you have to add 4-7db. The iTech and 10kQ are -3db at 6hz FYI. The iTech is dual 1-ohm stable, and is how I'm running it in these videos. I'm looking to upgrade to 3 FP14k's. 26400W vs my current 16400W of LFE power. (2.5db increase) The Ultras have 80mm of XMech clearance before they break. This is what 60 or 70mm looks like, I think this was 16hz. A burst of 5hz still sounds clean 99% of other subwoofers could only dream of doing such things. Side Note: I'm sure you must realize that going from 4 subs and 4 amps to 32 subs and 32 amps is only an increase of 18db, for 8 times the cost. Each doubling in price and equipment, gives you 6db. 145db continuous in a house would be crazy talk. Me likes. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2013 17:16:42 GMT -5
Ha, I didn't realize you were even on here lol. I love the fact the surrounds are dimpling in your video  |
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Post by phatfos1 on Jan 22, 2014 23:19:41 GMT -5
So after doing research and speaking with a few people I am going to go with two LMS-R 15s running off a Behringer EPX 4000 each. This will help even out the room and appears to have similar output compared to a single 5400 (it's not an easy space and we have a bunch of seats, so two subs will really help I think). I got one LMS-R and had a 3cf box built for it to start and I'll get the other one if this one works out (see below). I was so excited to get it hooked up and plugged in. I quickly ran into some problems:
1) The level out on my Denon to the EPX is way low. To get ANY output out of the sub (to even get it to move a little) I have to turn the sub level to +10 and the gain all the way up on the Behringer. Anybody have a suggestion on how to remedy this? I know lots of people use separate EQs for their DIY subs but I've got to assume that Audissy is a decent bass management system. Am I wrong? Do I need to get miniDSP or something similar?
2) There was a very loud mechanical clicking sound coming from the sub when I turned it up and ran 25-35hz tones through it. I took the sub out of the box and found that the voice coil was not properly set into the frame and was causing a very audible mechanical clicking sound at low frequencies but nowhere near xmax. The only thing that stopped the sound was to physically hold the coil against the frame to keep it from moving up and down.
3) Finally, it was also quite annoying to find that the sub was not in good cosmetic condition. The frame was all scratched up. The cone was fine but the rest of the unit was really in poor shape. I guess I was expecting something pristine. I was certainly disappointed when I opened the box and found what looked like a used motor or at least one that had not been handled with care. It looked beat up. Let's hope once I get a working unit that the sound makes up for the headache so far.
Very disappointing start. Parts Express is sending out another LMS-R tomorrow so hopefully it'll be in working condition.
If anyone can help with my level issue I would appreciate it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2014 23:53:56 GMT -5
So after doing research and speaking with a few people I am going to go with two LMS-R 15s running off a Behringer EPX 4000 each. This will help even out the room and appears to have similar output compared to a single 5400 (it's not an easy space and we have a bunch of seats, so two subs will really help I think). I got one LMS-R and had a 3cf box built for it to start and I'll get the other one if this one works out (see below). I was so excited to get it hooked up and plugged in. I quickly ran into some problems: 1) The level out on my Denon to the EPX is way low. To get ANY output out of the sub (to even get it to move a little) I have to turn the sub level to +10 and the gain all the way up on the Behringer. Anybody have a suggestion on how to remedy this? I know lots of people use separate EQs for their DIY subs but I've got to assume that Audissy is a decent bass management system. Am I wrong? Do I need to get miniDSP or something similar? 2) There was a very loud mechanical clicking sound coming from the sub when I turned it up and ran 25-35hz tones through it. I took the sub out of the box and found that the voice coil was not properly set into the frame and was causing a very audible mechanical clicking sound at low frequencies but nowhere near xmax. The only thing that stopped the sound was to physically hold the coil against the frame to keep it from moving up and down. 3) Finally, it was also quite annoying to find that the sub was not in good cosmetic condition. The frame was all scratched up. The cone was fine but the rest of the unit was really in poor shape. I guess I was expecting something pristine. I was certainly disappointed when I opened the box and found what looked like a used motor or at least one that had not been handled with care. It looked beat up. Let's hope once I get a working unit that the sound makes up for the headache so far. Very disappointing start. Parts Express is sending out another LMS-R tomorrow so hopefully it'll be in working condition. If anyone can help with my level issue I would appreciate it. I've heard these work well to boost the signal ..... www.amazon.com/ART-CLEANBOXPRO-CLEANBoxPro/dp/B003S7T49K |
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Post by phatfos1 on Jan 23, 2014 21:30:30 GMT -5
Got the new sub. Zero rattle on the LMS-R replacement. Loaded it in, ran Audissy and thought it sounded pretty good. Started playing around with placement a little and turned it up a bit. I was nowhere near what I'm sure this is capable of and slowly but surely the sound came back. Same exact problem. I am so frustrated.
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