Dayton 18" HO build!

[stads77]

Here it is fellas. I has been a long time coming, at least the three weeks without a subwoofer has felt like an eternity. For starters I have owned several different subwoofers over the past six years (PDR-8, ML Dynamo, Titanic 10", Dayton 15 HF DIY, Ultra 12's, Outlaw LFM-EX, Epic Empire) and have really enjoyed all their differences. The Epic Empire was the most musical without giving up extension for HT that I had the pleasure of using.

I don't know why, but I got the itch to build a sub and so the Epik was sold.

It began by finding an immaculate Crown XLS 1000 (recommended by Andrew on the forum) for $170 and then noticing all the reviews on both the SI 18 and Dayton 18 sub. I decided for the Dayton and decided I would try one of the DIY sounds groups flat packs. Within a 1 1/2 weeks I had both in hand.
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I was so excited that I took only 2 1/2 evenings to put it together and place it in my system. The pictures below will show you a little of the process. I clamped and glued the flat pack with ease (great to work with, highly recommended). I then sanded out any overhangs (not quite enough to warrant my router) and began mudding all the open mdf edges. I then sanded and primed. I decided to try a gloss black paint (Rustoleum high output professional spray can) and found it to be good enough for me, without wet sanding or anything too time consuming.
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After about 5 coats I installed the binding posts and acoustifoam (2.5 lbs.)
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Next, I installed the 10 AWG speaker wire to the terminals and brought the box downstairs to prepare for driver install!
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The driver fit perfectly, pre drilled the holes and mounted with square head black #8 1.5" wood screws.
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I love the look of the cab and driver, but sadly it will be covered by a grill because of my 4 and 2 year olds.

Level matching with the Crown was a little difficult, but I did not need a gain booster. I have my mains set at -2 db, sub at +2 db, and Crown at about 3/4 gain.

First listening impressions.... Super tight and spacious sub. I could not localize the sub and it punched really fast and articulate with music.   Movies seemed similar to the Epik, but slightly more pressure and tightness.

Next day I spend some time fully calibrating with Omnimic and EmoQ.  Wow, even better synergy with mains and just effortless with music playback. I am pretty content with the frequency response, especially considering it has no EQ apart from a few changes in the 40HZ (with UMC-1 EQ) range to boost a null.
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It has only been in my system for two days and needs a good few weeks before the driver is broken in, but I am very pleased. I will say that it is a phenomenal sub for music playback (my main focus) and plenty for my movie experiences. I am sure there are several subs out there that can dominate this sub below 20 HZ, but it also only cost me around $600 (240 driver + 140 flat pack+ 170 amp+ 40 misc.).   If I had the space, two of these would be perfect but unnecessary with my current small room.   

Down sides are few, but the enclosure does have pretty significant resonance when it it put to the test, so double walls on all sides may be recommended.  Also 1500 watts may be better suited then the 1000 I am giving it, though I have not seen the clip lights go above -10db.

This is the best sub I have had in my room to date, that is a certainty.  

[Deleted]

Good call on the dayton over the SI, it;s made with much better parts and is an all around better sub. Nice build!

[garym]

Congrats. Just started a sub build myself, using the Bravox 15" DVC Parts Express is selling for $99.80. Bought it on a whim --- ordered some other stuff from PE, and the shipping was to be $13. Then this window pops up and advises, "Order $47 more stuff and shipping is free!" So basically I got it for $87.

It arrived today, and I got started on the box. It's a beast, but I imagine your 18" would eat its lunch. WinISD says the Bravox should deliver an F3 of 19Hz with 6 db PEQ @ 23Hz.

[stads77]

Aug 8, 2013 22:25:59 GMT -5 @n8dogg said:

Good call on the dayton over the SI, it;s made with much better parts and is an all around better sub. Nice build!

Thanks, I still can't believe I have an 18" sub in my room. I am hoping one day this will find its twin, but I would need to buy a bigger house first. 1100 square feet isn't enough to have yourself a room with dual 18's.

To be real though, this sounds fantastic with my Expression 3 TT and some Daft Punk spinning, effortless punch.

I'll be watching Oblivion Monday night with friends, ill llet you all know how it performs in a true movie setting as well.

[Deleted]

What? 1100 CF is bigger than what I have all the stuff in my sig in hahahaha

[DYohn]

Nice build. Looks like a pretty good enclosure for a flat pack.

[stads77]

Total house sq. ft is 1100. The room is 14x8 with 7 foot ceilings, but also has youngsters running around it during the day.

[Deleted]

Awesome build Ben!

Ill have to stop by sometime maybe bring a couple of my newest creations.

Matt

[bootman]

Very nice build!

For the cabinet, is the only cutout that for the driver?
(I assume you did the cuts for the speaker outs?)

[Deleted]

Aug 9, 2013 16:15:40 GMT -5 stads77 said:

Total house sq. ft is 1100. The room is 14x8 with 7 foot ceilings, but also has youngsters running around it during the day.

ya, I was just kidding, I figured you didn't have an 1100 SF room lol.

[PGT]

its hard to beat the displacement of 18" drivers. A single 18 will nearly as much air as a pair of 15's (of course, two 15's likely sounds better due to room effect).

[stads77]

Aug 9, 2013 16:42:18 GMT -5 bootman said:

Very nice build!

For the cabinet, is the only cutout that for the driver?
(I assume you did the cuts for the speaker outs?)

Yes, the only cutout is for the driver and the baffle is doubled layered with an inset. I used parts-express tap in terminals on the rear. You just drill a 1/4 hole and pound the terminal heads in with a hammer and tighten with a nut from inside.

[stads77]

Aug 9, 2013 16:35:59 GMT -5 @kraemerkid2119 said:

Awesome build Ben!

Ill have to stop by sometime maybe bring a couple of my newest creations.

Matt

Thx Matt, please do come by with your new creations!! Would love to have you over again.

[ocezam]

I built mine with the same driver, different box. I don't think you can beat the Dayton 18 for anywhere near the money. It's really an accurate sub, great for movies AND music! I'm very happy with mine. I'm sure you will be too, congrats!

emotivalounge.proboards.com/thread/29748/18-subwoofer


...

[stads77]

So I watched Oblivion the other night and was extremely impressed and satisified with the depth and impact of the Dayton in every region of the soundtrack. I have it crossed over at 80HZ for movies as this gave the flattest total response with my fronts.

Before the movie I played a Deadmau5 vinyl for one of my friends who helped get me into the hobby, he was just amazed at how the sub integrated into the setup, smooth, effortless punch, and spacious were a few of his comments in regards to the subwoofer.

I don't know if this requires a lot of breakin, but I only have about 5 hours with it so far and I am so excited to know it may even get better, not that it needs too.

If you looking to spend 600 or more on a subwoofer, you may just try building this thing from scratch (super easy, took me about 4 hours total). It won't have an insane amount of output at 15HZ, but it will just shock you with speed and articulation. This is a perfect match for my 2 channel music needs and 5 channel movie enjoyment.

[PGT]

yes....most speakers need 100 hours to fully break in the mechanical parts.

[Deleted]

Aug 14, 2013 9:36:13 GMT -5 PGT said:

yes....most speakers need 100 hours to fully break in the mechanical parts.

Thats not really true. For the most part any actual changes to the driver will not be audible. Ive seen the testing first hand on numerous occasions and done with the designer himself. The spider and surround can only loosen up a very tiny amount. Its been proven wroung numerous times throught the years. Most drivers are tested before shipping, that would be sufficent time to full "break in" any parts that may loosen up.

[DYohn]

Aug 14, 2013 10:39:48 GMT -5 @n8dogg said:

Aug 14, 2013 9:36:13 GMT -5 PGT said:

yes....most speakers need 100 hours to fully break in the mechanical parts.

Thats not really true. For the most part any actual changes to the driver will not be audible. Ive seen the testing first hand on numerous occasions and done with the designer himself. The spider and surround can only loosen up a very tiny amount. Its been proven wroung numerous times throught the years. Most drivers are tested before shipping, that would be sufficent time to full "break in" any parts that may loosen up.

+1000000. Speaker break-in = FUD.

[PGT]

Meh. Just going off what B&W used to tell us for recommendations to customers. From their user manual on the 800 Nautilus Series:

Running-in period

The performance of the speaker will change subtly during the initial listening period. If the speaker has been stored in a cold environment, the damping compounds and suspension materials of the drive units will take some time to recover their correct mechanical properties. The drive unit suspensions will also loosen up during the first hours of use. The time taken for the speaker to achieve its intended performance will vary depending on previous storage conditions and how it is used. As a guide, allow up to a week for the temperature effects to stabilise and 15 hours of average use for the mechanical parts to attain their intended design characteristics.

The local distribution rep advised us 50-100 hrs was best.

[DYohn]

This sort of guidance is usually from manufacturers who know their customers expect to be told such things and they want the distributors and retailers to have an answer ready. But the reality is that any driver available in the world really does not "break in" after it shipped. If T/S parameters change after use in any significant way, a system could not be designed properly using those drivers.