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Post by waynebosz on Aug 21, 2013 14:35:39 GMT -5
I would like to change out the stock fuses with HIFI-TUNING Fuses. How many - Type / Sizes. Is there a schematic available?
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Aug 21, 2013 17:13:47 GMT -5
Welcome to the Lounge!
There used to be a thread on amp troubleshooting on the Lounge that was stickied, and I don't see it anymore and I can't find it anywhere. It listed the locations, and I used it to replace a failed fuse once. Maybe someone recalls enough details to steer you to the locations.
But...I honestly question whether paying more $ for different fuses will actually help sound. I know many places sell some pricey fuses saying they help sound, but I have never seen any credible explanation for why they could possibly help sound that is based in solid science. Personally, I would save the $ for other uses.
Mark
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Post by htinparadise on Aug 21, 2013 22:09:53 GMT -5
Hello friends,
The XPA2 first series has 6 fuses. Four fuses are on the top input board,
two 500ma time delay, two 1 amp time delay. The other two fuses are on the bottom side little opening which are two 10 amp time delay. All of the fuses are 5X20mm time delay or slow blo.
Although there is no viable scientific reasonable explanation for changing out the stock fuses, my experience is that my wife immediately commented on how the sound had changed for the better and further asked, "what did you do?"
Even changing out the cheap included glass fuses to higher quality ceramic sand filled replacements (a minor cost difference) is a very noticable difference.
Kindest regards,
HTinP
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Post by leonski on Sept 27, 2013 23:09:57 GMT -5
And than you can get into.....and drive yourself NUTS worrying about fuse DIRECTION.
I'd replace, if I were so inclined, the fuses on the DC power rails FIRST. That would be the highest amperage fuses on-board. Let any control section fuses wait till later. At the same time, for those who worry about such things, some have found that a filled ceramic fuse bests the glass fuses. The filled ceramic fuse is only pennies more expensive than the glass type. You may consider also replacing the fuse nearest the power inlet socket.
After worrying about fuses and driving yourself crazy with THAT, you may want to begin looking at new Power Cords! Now there's one that'll REALLY ruin the budget!
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xpa-1 fuse location
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Post by xpa-1 fuse location on Dec 24, 2013 12:21:53 GMT -5
And than you can get into.....and drive yourself NUTS worrying about fuse DIRECTION. I'd replace, if I were so inclined, the fuses on the DC power rails FIRST. That would be the highest amperage fuses on-board. Let any control section fuses wait till later. At the same time, for those who worry about such things, some have found that a filled ceramic fuse bests the glass fuses. The filled ceramic fuse is only pennies more expensive than the glass type. You may consider also replacing the fuse nearest the power inlet socket. After worrying about fuses and driving yourself crazy with THAT, you may want to begin looking at new Power Cords! Now there's one that'll REALLY ruin the budget! |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Dec 24, 2013 12:33:15 GMT -5
Fuse direction??!? Fuses have no direction.
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Post by Boomzilla on Dec 24, 2013 13:23:32 GMT -5
Fuse direction??!? Fuses have no direction. Are you being LOGICAL again David? You DO know better...  |
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Post by leonski on Dec 24, 2013 13:46:05 GMT -5
Ordinarily I'd leave a '3rd rail' subject like this alone, but in this case will chime in…just a little.
Are fuses directional? I'd generally say NO. But some of the lunatic fringe would differ, and even so in an AC circuit! I don't get it either.
Nobody has objectively demonstrated that fuses vibrate, or that such vibration, if it existed, would effect the sound. That's why, a safe and inexpensive 'bet' is to change over to
a Filled Ceramic Fuse. with some kind of damping internal.
Would I ever recommend or even consider 100$+ for a fuse? Not in THIS lifetime.
It is just possible that fuses ARE directional. This idea would be based on how the wire is drawn. I'd have NO idea how to test this or even if such a test would be possible.
Most DBT schemes are flawed in one way or another and some completely discount such testing.
I think the best course of action is 'It's your system. Your ears. Your money. Have fun.'
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Post by Boomzilla on Dec 24, 2013 13:50:17 GMT -5
I will say that having pulled many a blown fuse, and being just curious enough to examine them to see which end melted, I find no correlation between the direction of current flow and which end of a fuse melted. In other words, the "inlet" of the fuse was just as likely to have melted as the "outlet."
This alone would argue against fuses being "directional," unless the installation of the fuses randomly placed the weaker end of the fuse upstream or down...
Even if that was the case, how would any manufacturer determine which was the "weaker" end of the fuse? Should the end more likely to melt be upstream or downstream? Why should it matter?
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Dec 24, 2013 14:01:52 GMT -5
It is just possible that fuses ARE directional. No, actually, it's not.  |
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Post by thepcguy on Dec 24, 2013 15:37:44 GMT -5
This is my new DIY project for the year 2014. I will use the biggest fuse I can get and install it outside the amp box:   |
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Post by monkumonku on Dec 24, 2013 15:40:32 GMT -5
It is just possible that fuses ARE directional. No, actually, it's not. Well now, you don't think it matters if you put the penny in heads facing out instead of tails facing out? |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Dec 24, 2013 15:43:56 GMT -5
They ARE directional. They have to be installed parallel to the holder...perpendicular just won't work.
Mark
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Post by macromicroman on Dec 24, 2013 17:09:53 GMT -5
Actually, you have to put them into the holder. Just lining them up parallel to the holder will not work either.
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Post by leonski on Dec 24, 2013 21:54:25 GMT -5
I don't believe fuses are directional, either. Being in an AC circuit would make that moot, anyway, even if they were directional in some fashion. Wire drawing stresses the grain. Even drawn sheet metal has this effect. A longshot as a source for such an effect as to be audible? For sure, just don't toss it out….yet. Also, fuses, have fairly high current density…it is a very small wire for fairly high current, no matter WHAT the fuse rating means they are subject to something called electromigration. The current will 'pull' the metal in the direction of flow…..and away from the thin part where current density is highest. That's why a fuse will sometimes 'pop' even if never stressed above its current limit. Its probably been in-circuit for quite a while. Semiconductors are prone to this effect. Metal in semiconductor power devices is measured in Microns while in logic devices, probably in Angstroms, unless it is expected to flow quite a bit of current….than power device rules would apply. Semiconductors, which you'd THINK would have a near-forever lifespan are limited by these and other effects. Have fun and be safe. for all you fuse changers out there…..UNPLUG the amp and let it sit for at least 1/2 hour before cracking the case….except for externally accessible, socketed fuses. Any internal fuse should be ASSUMED to carry a good ZAP which will be harmful, painful, or perhaps fatal….or all 3. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromigration |
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