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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 15, 2013 9:13:33 GMT -5
Ok,looking to upgrade my current subs,,right now I have 2 ultra 10s,which I like and will move to a different part of house.So most of my stuff is movies and tv on my set up,My issue is my home theather is in my basement,the floor is concrete and the walls are finished sheetrock,but I never seem to get the kick in the chest feel from my bass when watching movies.So this is where if I changed to vented subs would I feel the difference? My room is only 15x9 and is in a corner of the basement,it is carpeted.Looking at going to PSA XV15s.I know going to 15 will def make a change,but will it give me that feel of being hit with Thors hammer when watching.
Thanks Guys
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hemster
Global Moderator 
Particle Manufacturer
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Post by hemster on Sept 15, 2013 10:06:59 GMT -5
Quite honestly in a room that size and with 2 Ultra-10s if you're not getting to feel the thump, I'd suggest using some tactile transducers. They really work and I love my Buttkickers. Clarke is another option.
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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 15, 2013 12:49:28 GMT -5
Thanks hemster,yea I had looked at those,I was just thinking with vented it would move more air pressure around the room,,Dont get me wrong I do feel the bass,just want that punch in the stomach feel ,that I have felt in other peoples setup.I think it is just me wanting BIGGER subs. Thanks for the reply.
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Post by Kent on Sept 15, 2013 13:07:48 GMT -5
Hello,
Before you purchase new subs I would try a few things because upgrading may not solve your low frequency issues. If your sub's phase isn't correct it will present issues. I'd also spend a good day positioning them in different locations throughout your room and playing material you know well at the same volume to A/B the differences. It may be beneficial if you can get someone to help you by making adjustments on your subwoofers themselves while you are in the listening position. Double checking your pre/pro settings wouldn't hurt either:)
I certainly hope you can resolve your problem because I know how frustrating it can be when your system isn't performing right.
GOOD LUCK!
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Sept 15, 2013 15:44:19 GMT -5
Quite honestly in a room that size and with 2 Ultra-10s if you're not getting to feel the thump, I'd suggest using some tactile transducers. They really work and I love my Buttkickers. Clarke is another option. hemster, I'd be interested in seeing some photos of your HT room, and just how you've got your 'Buttkickers' hooked up. Like, for how many seats? All seats? How many? For couches?, specific HT type seating?, and/or chairs too? And so on,...got a plan or photos to show??? |
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hemster
Global Moderator
Particle Manufacturer
...still listening... still watching
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Post by hemster on Sept 15, 2013 16:08:47 GMT -5
Quite honestly in a room that size and with 2 Ultra-10s if you're not getting to feel the thump, I'd suggest using some tactile transducers. They really work and I love my Buttkickers. Clarke is another option. hemster, I'd be interested in seeing some photos of your HT room, and just how you've got your 'Buttkickers' hooked up. Like, for how many seats? All seats? How many? For couches?, specific HT type seating?, and/or chairs too? And so on,...got a plan or photos to show??? Photos are tricky - let me explain why: I have 2 rows of seats, all recliners. The front row has 2 seats which are on the carpeted floor. These are not the money seats and do not have Buttkickers (more on that later). The back row has 3 seats on a 12" platform/riser which is carpeted. The riser frame on the inside is where I have my 2 Buttkickers mounted. So these shake the entire riser and everything on it! The riser is a very sturdy frame of 2x4s and sits on 375 lbs rated Buttkicker Kinetic Rubber Isolators. These provide the "bounce factor". Of course the center seat is mine!  So, given that the Buttkicker actuators are located on the inside of the riser, they're hard for me to photograph. I did provide a cutout over each on top of the riser (i.e. the floor) to allow access in case it's needed. I need to move the chairs off the riser to access however. Now, about those 2 front row seats - I plan on installing Buttkickers in each and there's ample reserve in my 1100W Buttkicker amplifier to power these. All seats are identical - they're recliners from LazyBoy and include a fabric and color of my choice (i.e. WAF approved). I plan to move the front row seats closer together so they're staggered against the back row. Sorry about the dark pic but the theater is kind of dark.  I'll take some more pics and post them tomorrow. Attachment Deleted |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2013 16:46:57 GMT -5
2 x 10's are just not going to cut it for HT in my opinion. Those 15's in your space will be super sweet, it will be like having close to 8 of those 10's and will dig deeper and hit way harder. The bass will not be overpowering unless you set it up that way. If you feel it hits to hard, turn down the gain a bit. You can make it sound exactly how you want when you have headroom!
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Sept 15, 2013 20:31:00 GMT -5
hemster, I'd be interested in seeing some photos of your HT room, and just how you've got your 'Buttkickers' hooked up. Like, for how many seats? All seats? How many? For couches?, specific HT type seating?, and/or chairs too? And so on,...got a plan or photos to show??? Photos are tricky - let me explain why: I have 2 rows of seats, all recliners. The front row has 2 seats which are on the carpeted floor. These are not the money seats and do not have Buttkickers (more on that later). The back row has 3 seats on a 12" platform/riser which is carpeted. The riser frame on the inside is where I have my 2 Buttkickers mounted. So these shake the entire riser and everything on it! The riser is a very sturdy frame of 2x4s and sits on 375 lbs rated Buttkicker Kinetic Rubber Isolators. These provide the "bounce factor". Of course the center seat is mine! So, given that the Buttkicker actuators are located on the inside of the riser, they're hard for me to photograph. I did provide a cutout over each on top of the riser (i.e. the floor) to allow access in case it's needed. I need to move the chairs off the riser to access however. Now, about those 2 front row seats - I plan on installing Buttkickers in each and there's ample reserve in my 1100W Buttkicker amplifier to power these. All seats are identical - they're recliners from LazyBoy and include a fabric and color of my choice (i.e. WAF approved). I plan to move the front row seats closer together so they're staggered against the back row. Sorry about the dark pic but the theater is kind of dark. I'll take some more pics and post them tomorrow. View AttachmentThat's a pretty good explanation, I've got a good idea of how you've hooked it up now. Good idea to try and get the front row seats 'into the action' too! Would it be possible to put the front AND back row on the same riser, just that the extra step is built in to the rear row of course - so the WHOLE thing shakes? I'll look forward to the other photos coming too. Thanks! |
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hemster
Global Moderator
Particle Manufacturer
...still listening... still watching
Posts: 51,952
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Post by hemster on Sept 15, 2013 21:33:28 GMT -5
Photos are tricky - let me explain why: I have 2 rows of seats, all recliners. The front row has 2 seats which are on the carpeted floor. These are not the money seats and do not have Buttkickers (more on that later). The back row has 3 seats on a 12" platform/riser which is carpeted. The riser frame on the inside is where I have my 2 Buttkickers mounted. So these shake the entire riser and everything on it! The riser is a very sturdy frame of 2x4s and sits on 375 lbs rated Buttkicker Kinetic Rubber Isolators. These provide the "bounce factor". Of course the center seat is mine! So, given that the Buttkicker actuators are located on the inside of the riser, they're hard for me to photograph. I did provide a cutout over each on top of the riser (i.e. the floor) to allow access in case it's needed. I need to move the chairs off the riser to access however. Now, about those 2 front row seats - I plan on installing Buttkickers in each and there's ample reserve in my 1100W Buttkicker amplifier to power these. All seats are identical - they're recliners from LazyBoy and include a fabric and color of my choice (i.e. WAF approved). I plan to move the front row seats closer together so they're staggered against the back row. Sorry about the dark pic but the theater is kind of dark. I'll take some more pics and post them tomorrow. That's a pretty good explanation, I've got a good idea of how you've hooked it up now. Good idea to try and get the front row seats 'into the action' too! Would it be possible to put the front AND back row on the same riser, just that the extra step is built in to the rear row of course - so the WHOLE thing shakes? I'll look forward to the other photos coming too. Thanks! Unfortunately the riser is only deep enough for one row but that was by design. The whole riser does shake however! I was thinking about further photos but what would I photograph? The actuators are inside the riser so nothing is visible. The surprise on people's faces - priceless! |
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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 17, 2013 16:30:02 GMT -5
Thanks for all the replies,,Right now I am talking with Tom at PSA,and it looks like with 900 cubic ft,One of the XV15 will be just fine,I have tried to move subs around,but because of the concrete floor that my couch sits on,just don't feel it,Hopefully with a vented sub will move more bass around.Dont get me wrong I love my 2 ultra 10s and will transfer them upstairs and make them part of a nic 2 channel setup.
Thanks Again Lounge
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2013 17:28:37 GMT -5
That 15 is gonna walk all over those 10's. You'll be doing the "WTF stink eye" at those 10's in no time lol
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 17, 2013 17:37:40 GMT -5
IMO sealed subs are more apropriate and controlled for music and big ported subs for movie and big boom badaboom sound effect.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2013 18:04:39 GMT -5
IMO sealed subs are more apropriate and controlled for music and big ported subs for movie and big boom badaboom sound effect. No really true, it's a myth more than anything. Ported "can" sound just as good as a sealed sub and sealed subs "can" sound boomy and bloated. A properly designed ported sub can sound just as good and a sealed sub. A higher BL in the driver can control it just as much as lower BL and air spring does in a sealed driver |
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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 17, 2013 18:06:20 GMT -5
That's what its for frenchyfranky,,Only watch moives with my home theather,moving the 10s to a 2 channel setup,and I agree with with sealed are much better for music,but there are so many opinions on that. Thanks for the reply
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Post by laserman35 on Sept 17, 2013 19:48:29 GMT -5
I have about 250 SF theater room with one chair, 1 buttkicker and 2 18" TC sound subs. I will never downsize again. I would go with a sealed box it just sounds better almost all the time. I know there have some great ported boxes in the past, but i would say that sealed is best most of the time.
If your looking for value the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 is a great sub that would raise the room pressure.
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 18, 2013 0:19:37 GMT -5
IMO sealed subs are more apropriate and controlled for music and big ported subs for movie and big boom badaboom sound effect. No really true, it's a myth more than anything. Ported "can" sound just as good as a sealed sub and sealed subs "can" sound boomy and bloated. A properly designed ported sub can sound just as good and a sealed sub. A higher BL in the driver can control it just as much as lower BL and air spring does in a sealed driver I have to admit that my 8 years old SVS PB2-plus (2 X 12" ported) is absolutely a beast for movie and it can sounds also very gentle and controled with music, I know it's not the case for all subs. |
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Post by flamingeye on Sept 18, 2013 10:10:46 GMT -5
IMO sealed subs are more apropriate and controlled for music and big ported subs for movie and big boom badaboom sound effect. No really true, it's a myth more than anything. Ported "can" sound just as good as a sealed sub and sealed subs "can" sound boomy and bloated. A properly designed ported sub can sound just as good and a sealed sub. A higher BL in the driver can control it just as much as lower BL and air spring does in a sealed driver I agree a properly designed sub and placement is key to good sound sealed or ported = be it for movies or music |
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Post by laserman35 on Sept 18, 2013 10:37:49 GMT -5
From your description of what you want. I do not think you will be happy with a 10 or 12 inch driver. Most of these guys are serious audiophiles and listen at very safe volumes at all times. I like to relax and listen the same 98% of the time.
But there are days when i want to crank up the volume to AC/DC or a great action movie and a 10 or 12 inch driver would never cut it.
I would rather have a Bugatti Veyron to drive through a school zone than a golf cart. You can always drive it slow but when you want to kick it in a golf cart just don't cut it.
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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 27, 2013 14:43:39 GMT -5
Well thanks all for the replies again,Finally got my PSA XV15,all I have to say at 80lbs,i almost got a hernia bringing it downstairs to the cave.HOLY CRAP ITS A MONSTER.
I could use it as a end table,its that big.But the sound and the bass that I have been missing,OMG,my frigin house was shakin.cant wait to get another so I can shake the house twice as hard.
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zerafa
Sensei
running in a LH Labs Pulse X
Posts: 147
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Post by zerafa on Jan 11, 2014 11:05:32 GMT -5
did you ever double up? i am thinking about doubling up my XS30. after the XMC-1 comes through the door...
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I'll take some more pics and post them tomorrow.
