|
|
Post by brubacca on Oct 17, 2013 10:56:54 GMT -5
Ok I built this with my very limited skills.... It is (2) 41" x 20" x 0.5" Plywood sheets with some 80/20 Extruded Aluminum for the risers.   With Gear:  |
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Oct 17, 2013 11:04:52 GMT -5
VERY nice! Well done.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bonzo on Oct 17, 2013 12:25:09 GMT -5
I have a local place to get the aluminum, but where did you get the feet? And what about the top hardware? |
|
|
|
Post by brubacca on Oct 17, 2013 12:57:46 GMT -5
It's all from 80/20.
They cut and tapped the uprights. I'll post the part list.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bonzo on Oct 17, 2013 13:14:21 GMT -5
It's all from 80/20. They cut and tapped the uprights. I'll post the part list. That would be great!!! Thanks ---- Bonzo |
|
|
|
Post by brubacca on Oct 17, 2013 16:27:21 GMT -5
Ok here goes... These are the exact parts I ordered from 80/20. I work for the distributor for Eastern PA, Southern Jersey, Delaware, Parts of Maryland and Virginia. 1010-Black with 7061 Both Ends (qty 6). 1" profile cut to 10" lengths 7010 - Cut to Length Charge for above (qty 6) 7061- 1/4"-20 Tap tube end. (Qty12) 3062 - 1/4" -20 x 0.75" Black SocketHead Cap Screw (qty 6) 3258 - Black Washer. (Qty 12) 3208 - Black Hex Nut (qty 6) 2186- Black Economy Furniture Glide (qty 6) Total 80/20 Price ~ $68 plus shipping With the 0.5" plywood the rack is sized to be able to accept a XPA-2 amp in each section. 80/20 has many other option. It really is great stuff. Not cheap, but very flexible. The1010 is roughly 1" square. They also have many profiles even in metric. Also many foot options. You could do the whole frame out of 80/20, but the cost obviously goes up. They charge per the inch on the extrusion plus any machining charges. Www.8020.netIf you download stuff from their website and enter your information someone will most likely contact you from the local distributor, possible more than one person. |
|
|
|
Post by deltadube on Oct 17, 2013 16:38:25 GMT -5
1/2 inch ply seems a bit thin to support emotiva big amps... like xpa 2..
i would move up to atleast 5/8 or 3/4 even better solid..
rack looks good
cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by brubacca on Oct 17, 2013 16:47:02 GMT -5
I ran the calculations and found that with the center supported post it really is fine. I was going to use 1" or 3/4" , but my neighbor gave me the 1/2" and I'm cheap.
Used the sagulator on the web. It calculates a sag well within limits. 0.004" per foot with a target of 0.02".
I am considering a XPA-2 so maybe we'll find out.
|
|
|
|
Post by Bonzo on Oct 22, 2013 11:19:48 GMT -5
Ok here goes... These are the exact parts I ordered from 80/20. I work for the distributor for Eastern PA, Southern Jersey, Delaware, Parts of Maryland and Virginia. 1010-Black with 7061 Both Ends (qty 6). 1" profile cut to 10" lengths 7010 - Cut to Length Charge for above (qty 6) 7061- 1/4"-20 Tap tube end. (Qty12) 3062 - 1/4" -20 x 0.75" Black SocketHead Cap Screw (qty 6) 3258 - Black Washer. (Qty 12) 3208 - Black Hex Nut (qty 6) 2186- Black Economy Furniture Glide (qty 6) Total 80/20 Price ~ $68 plus shipping With the 0.5" plywood the rack is sized to be able to accept a XPA-2 amp in each section. 80/20 has many other option. It really is great stuff. Not cheap, but very flexible. The1010 is roughly 1" square. They also have many profiles even in metric. Also many foot options. You could do the whole frame out of 80/20, but the cost obviously goes up. They charge per the inch on the extrusion plus any machining charges. Www.8020.netIf you download stuff from their website and enter your information someone will most likely contact you from the local distributor, possible more than one person. So did you deal with them direct? From their sit it appears you are supposed go through a distributor. Luckily there is one right here in my area. I have already given them a call and am awaiting a call back. This stuff is REALLY cool. And from what it appears, it's a gazzilion times cheaper than buying a cabinet from Salamander. I have hesitated buying from them for almost 3 years now because of price. The only thing I'd have to figure out is the wood part. I have many options there, just need to decide. Oh yeah, and perhaps the doors and metal side panels. But I think I might have an option there also. But hey, this is great information. Thanks brubacca, very much! |
|
|
|
Post by thoff on Oct 22, 2013 11:52:45 GMT -5
I am also a big fan of the 8020 stuff and built my own vertical rack for my components. I will post pics later.
During my research I read a lot of great stuff about Baltic Birch plywood and how strong it was. I was able to find a place near me that had sheets of it and they cut it to all the sizes I needed. i believe I got 3/4 inch baltic birch and these shelves can easily hold anything heavy you put on it. The shelving brackets you use will likely be the limiting factor.
I went the 8020 route because I really like the Salamander design but was not about to pay those prices. That being said you can order parts bags directly from them. I did this for their shelf brackets since it was much easier than finding all the hardware to work with the extruded aluminum.
Since mine is vertical, I have two sections...a two foot high bottom section and a 3 foot high top section. Ideally I want to get some type of tinted glass door for the bottom to give it a cleaner look. Does anyone have suggestion for how to pull this off? Should I use glass or some other material? My initial thought is to buy a door hinge from the 8020 site on ebay and then order tinted glass from a local shop to the spec I want. Since I never ordered glass before, is there anything I should be wary of?
|
|
|
|
Post by Bonzo on Oct 22, 2013 13:27:35 GMT -5
I am also a big fan of the 8020 stuff and built my own vertical rack for my components. I will post pics later. During my research I read a lot of great stuff about Baltic Birch plywood and how strong it was. I was able to find a place near me that had sheets of it and they cut it to all the sizes I needed. i believe I got 3/4 inch baltic birch and these shelves can easily hold anything heavy you put on it. The shelving brackets you use will likely be the limiting factor. I went the 8020 route because I really like the Salamander design but was not about to pay those prices. That being said you can order parts bags directly from them. I did this for their shelf brackets since it was much easier than finding all the hardware to work with the extruded aluminum. Since mine is vertical, I have two sections...a two foot high bottom section and a 3 foot high top section. Ideally I want to get some type of tinted glass door for the bottom to give it a cleaner look. Does anyone have suggestion for how to pull this off? Should I use glass or some other material? My initial thought is to buy a door hinge from the 8020 site on ebay and then order tinted glass from a local shop to the spec I want. Since I never ordered glass before, is there anything I should be wary of? Pics would be awesome!! I'd like to do a double stack also and I think the hardware might be an issue but I'm not sure. Salamander is just so friggin' expensive for what you get. I do like their casters, and the basic design of their shelf adjusting system. Instead of glass I really like the black perforated metal. I think i might have a source for that also. Now that i have this link to 80/20 there are just so many options. This is good for me because I tried about 20 variations of Salamander and none fit what i wanted. |
|
|
|
Post by thoff on Oct 22, 2013 13:41:24 GMT -5
I have the black casters on mine (again, I'll post pics later). There is a third party site (http://www.thesimpletvstandstore.com/c-686-Salamander-Designs.aspx) that sells salamander stuff and I bought the salamander casters from them. Makes it much easier to move the thing around because it is quite heavy.
Also, the 8020 store on ebay (http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) has good deals on their overstock items. This is where I got all my stuff from. Still looking for 3 foot side panels for the top section of the rack.
|
|
|
|
Post by thoff on Oct 22, 2013 19:56:00 GMT -5
Here are the pics of my homemade rack. Like I said, I would like to put some type of tinted glass door on the bottom. I think it would really give it a clean look. Attachments:
|
|
|
|
Post by Bonzo on Oct 23, 2013 9:56:08 GMT -5
Here are the pics of my homemade rack. Like I said, I would like to put some type of tinted glass door on the bottom. I think it would really give it a clean look. Wow, what you have is structurally almost identical to what I want. Thanks for the pics!!! Great to see someone else has accomplished what I am looking to do. So you got Salamander wheels (which I like a lot), you bought the aluminum posts from 80/20, and you made the wood yourself. The 2 pieces of hardware I have been most concerned with that you seem to over come are the joiners (that allow for the double stack) that you made, and the Salamander shelf holder pegs. Where did you get those items? Regarding the door, I would like to have that also. I only really see 2 options, which is to buy it from Salamander, or, again, make one yourself. The big problem with buying from Salamander is the finish not matching, and the limited amount of 3 sizes. My plan would be to see if my local guy will let me "borrow" a door and take it to my local wood making guy. The next way would be to take my local wood making guy to the store and let him look at it. The biggest thing is the hinge, making sure it works with the posts and fits right. Thanks again for the pics. |
|
|
|
Post by audiosyndrome on Oct 23, 2013 12:01:50 GMT -5
Bonzo- McMaster Carr caries perforated metal sheets that can be used for doors. Too bad Salamander has such a limited limited selection of door sizes for their Synergy line.  Russ |
|
|
|
Post by thoff on Oct 23, 2013 13:11:57 GMT -5
Bonzo, The shelf pegs I ordered directly from Salamander. Probably not the cheapest solution to hold the shelves, but I like the look of them and didn't know where else to go. I can't remember off hand how much each set of 4 pegs was. The "joiners" as you call them are just two inch long bolts that don't have a head on them. You use an Allen wrench to feed it down through the wood into the bottom aluminum piece, then leaving about 3/4 inch exposed you take the top aluminum and twist it down on the bolt. You can look up the assembly instructions on the salamander site if this doesn't make much sense. I'll take a pic of the bolt and post it later for you. I bought a box of 50 of these 2 inch bolts online because I found them pretty cheap. I designed and built mine to specs different than salamander's because I wanted it to be slightly deeper and wider. This prevents me from being able to use a door from salamander. I've been dragging my feet on trying to figure out how to get a door on the bottom, but seeing other people looking at it may get me motivated.  |
|
