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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 9:09:44 GMT -5
My Maggie 1.6 socks were holed & cat-scratched from the previous owner(s). Pitbullmike was kind enough to give me some white replacement socks (and THANK YOU, pitbullmike, for your generosity!!). I wanted black ones, so I decided to dye the socks. The RIT dye package warns that their dye won't work will with purely synthetic fabrics. Apparently, the Maggie socks are pure synthetic, because their black dye didn't take. The socks came out a navy blue (rather than black) and since the dye set unevenly, the socks look "tie dyed." Taking the old socks off was straightforward. I got my instructions here: www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/green_lantern/repair.htm Everything worked as advertised. I used a strong bladed knife point to lift the staples from the fabric, and then removed the staples by pulling with an electrician's wire tool. I also used the wire tool to remove the brads from the side grooves where the wooden strips had been tacked on. When I went to put the new socks on, everything went well until I tried to put the speaker feet back on the first speaker. If you get the nylon fabric into the threads of the mounting screw, you can't tighten the mounting screw and you can't undo the screw. It pulled the T-nut completely free of the speaker frame (which appears to be made of something with the structural integrity of papier-mâché. Therefore, to avoid this, stretch the fabric until the holes line up with the screw mount sockets and then put the screws through the cloth before you staple the cloth to the frame. This "indexes" the screw holes so you don't try to push a screw through the fabric. Magnepan uses enough staples to bottom-weight the entire speaker (an exaggeration, but they do use LOTS of staples). I used fewer and don't anticipate any problems. I also dispensed with using the side trim wooden strips. They may serve some purpose in stabilizing the stretch of the fabric. If this turns out to be the case, then I'll put them back on, but for now, they seem superfluous. So that's the lowdown. This took a couple of hours. My wife is happy with the look of the cloths as is, so I'll leave well enough alone. Cheers, Boomzilla.  |
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bootman
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Typing useless posts on internet forums....
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Post by bootman on Nov 13, 2013 9:18:08 GMT -5
They look like jeans.
Cool look.
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Post by garbulky on Nov 13, 2013 9:18:54 GMT -5
I like the new look!
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Post by audiobill on Nov 13, 2013 9:21:03 GMT -5
My Maggie 1.6 socks were holed & cat-scratched from the previous owner(s). Pitbullmike was kind enough to give me some white replacement socks. I wanted black ones, so I decided to dye the socks. The RIT dye package warns that their dye won't work will with purely synthetic fabrics. Apparently, the Maggie socks are pure synthetic, because their black dye didn't take. The socks came out a navy blue (rather than black) and since the dye set unevenly, the socks look "tie dyed." Taking the old socks off was straightforward. I got my instructions here: www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/green_lantern/repair.htm Everything worked as advertised. I used a strong bladed knife point to lift the staples from the fabric, and then removed the staples by pulling with an electrician's wire tool. I also used the wire tool to remove the brads from the side grooves where the wooden strips had been tacked on. When I went to put the new socks on, everything went well until I tried to put the speaker feet back on the first speaker. If you get the nylon fabric into the threads of the mounting screw, you can't tighten the mounting screw and you can't undo the screw. It pulled the T-nut completely free of the speaker frame (which appears to be made of something with the structural integrity of papier-mâché. Therefore, to avoid this, stretch the fabric until the holes line up with the screw mount sockets and then put the screws through the cloth before you staple the cloth to the frame. This "indexes" the screw holes so you don't try to push a screw through the fabric. Magnepan uses enough staples to bottom-weight the entire speaker (an exaggeration, but they do use LOTS of staples). I used fewer and don't anticipate any problems. I also dispensed with using the side trim wooden strips. They may serve some purpose in stabilizing the stretch of the fabric. If this turns out to be the case, then I'll put them back on, but for now, they seem superfluous. So that's the lowdown. This took a couple of hours. My wife is happy with the look of the cloths as is, so I'll leave well enough alone. Cheers, Boomzilla. I think they look great - do I note the DC-1 back in your tagline  |
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 10:45:44 GMT -5
I think they look great - do I note the DC-1 back in your tagline Yes - I had a sale, but it fell through. For now, the Stealth DC-1's treble brightness is offset by the Crown XLS-1500's treble reticence (a characteristic of most class-D amplifiers, so I read). The Crown is more reticent than the DC-1 is bright, though, so the sound is still a bit dull. Soon, I'll swap out the Crown for my XPA-2 and try to offset the DC-1's brightness with some braided speaker wires. IMHO, the braided wires (such as Kimber and Ixos) are "softer" in the treble than most, so maybe the proper balance will be restored. We'll see... |
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Post by audiobill on Nov 13, 2013 10:47:31 GMT -5
I think they look great - do I note the DC-1 back in your tagline Yes - I had a sale, but it fell through. For now, the Stealth DC-1's treble brightness is offset by the Crown XLS-1500's treble reticence (a characteristic of most class-D amplifiers, so I read). The Crown is more reticent than the DC-1 is bright, though, so the sound is still a bit dull. Soon, I'll swap out the Crown for my XPA-2 and try to offset the DC-1's brightness with some braided speaker wires. IMHO, the braided wires (such as Kimber and Ixos) are "softer" in the treble than most, so maybe the proper balance will be restored. We'll see... I hope so, Boom. Best, |
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 10:58:01 GMT -5
Although I also really like these:  |
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Post by cardiffkook on Nov 13, 2013 11:38:45 GMT -5
Love the blue fabric. Definitely one of a kind.
I just put new socks on my IIIa's last month. I replaced the old cream gunny sacks with the new thinner black socks. I also repaired the minor delam in the woofers.
I can relate to the excessive staples and the issue of getting screws into the mounting feet. I used the soldering iron to burn screw sized holes in the fabric before inserting the bolts.
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 11:42:47 GMT -5
I never thought of making holes using a soldering pen - That's a great idea as it would seal the synthetic fabric fibers (by melting them) and prevent unravelling. Thanks for the tip!
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Post by bub on Nov 13, 2013 12:18:28 GMT -5
Nice work as usual Boom.. Makes me miss my Apogee 's even more..
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Post by mshump on Nov 13, 2013 14:37:09 GMT -5
I think they look great - do I note the DC-1 back in your tagline Yes - I had a sale, but it fell through. For now, the Stealth DC-1's treble brightness is offset by the Crown XLS-1500's treble reticence (a characteristic of most class-D amplifiers, so I read). The Crown is more reticent than the DC-1 is bright, though, so the sound is still a bit dull. Soon, I'll swap out the Crown for my XPA-2 and try to offset the DC-1's brightness with some braided speaker wires. IMHO, the braided wires (such as Kimber and Ixos) are "softer" in the treble than most, so maybe the proper balance will be restored. We'll see... Isn't that funny Boomzilla, I bought a set of PB&J's and every time I have put them in a system I pulled them out within a week. I hear them as harsh..lol. I much prefer Audio Quest, to my ears they are smoother. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 15:46:53 GMT -5
Agreed, mshump - I've got a pair of Audioquest blue somethings (XLR) between the DC-1 and the power amp now. The speaker wires, however, seem mellower when braided.
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 15:58:46 GMT -5
And I can fairly certainly say that I DO like the 1.6 Maggies. In fact, probably well enough to buy some 1.8s when they come out. I've found the position where the bass gels in the room and am getting closer to the DAC/amp combo that suits them.
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klinemj
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Posts: 15,083
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Post by klinemj on Nov 13, 2013 18:10:51 GMT -5
I don't want to hear the 1.8's...I don't need an excuse to upgrade. Because...I would likely want to get to 3.x's...
Mark
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Post by 1960broookwood on Nov 13, 2013 18:44:13 GMT -5
Our tastes seem to be similar--interesting to hear you are now a fan of planar speakers  |
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Post by Dark Ranger on Nov 13, 2013 19:14:40 GMT -5
I think they look great - do I note the DC-1 back in your tagline Yes - I had a sale, but it fell through. Paging garbulky to the white courtesy phone...  |
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 20:25:11 GMT -5
Mrs. Gar's riding herd on that phone just now, thanks...
To those who have Maggies, what sub crossover frequency do you use? Thanks - Boom
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Post by pedrocols on Nov 13, 2013 20:26:23 GMT -5
I use 50hz...
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Post by Boomzilla on Nov 13, 2013 20:31:02 GMT -5
Do you run the Maggies full-range and cut the sub in at 50 Hz. or do you use an upstream crossover to do the division? Thanks. |
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Post by GreenKiwi on Nov 13, 2013 20:31:16 GMT -5
I've got mine set to 40, but my speakers go a bit further down. I want to get a better sub that goes flat to 20.
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