KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 30, 2014 9:45:43 GMT -5
I've just got to pop in with my 2 cents here..... Personally, I've never experienced what I would call "confirmed audible burn-in" with a modern piece of audio electronics. It certainly happens with mechanical devices like speakers and headphones, and with tube equipment, but I am more inclined to believe that it is simply that we (I) get used to a particular piece of electronics than that they are actually changing in the amount necessary to be audible. I can confirm, from long experience with test equipment, that certain electronic components absolutely do "drift" and "settle in" after time, and many change characteristics with temperature. However, it's usually things like DC bias current which drift, which is why you adjust sensitive meters after a thorough burn-in period... and also after making sure they're warmed up when you make the actual adjustment. And, yes, even though they have circuitry to minimize the change, our amps will draw different bias when they're warm; which is why virtually everyone recommends adjusting power amp bias when the amp is at "normal operating temperature". However, most amps are designed so that this sort of difference has minimum effect on the AC characteristics of the amp, and I personally can't say I've ever heard it. Since our - human - audio memory is so variable, none of us can remember the way something sounded last week, or even ten minutes ago, accurately enough to be sure. The only real way to test this would be to procure two identical units of a given model, confirm that the really do sound identical to begin with, then run one for a month while the other one sits in a closet; then, at the end of that month, warm them both up for an hour, and see if you can NOW hear a difference. (I've never heard of anybody actually doing this test - this is one of those "age old questions" that nobody seems especially eager to "answer". My guess would be that most equipment won't show any change, but some few devices might.) And, yes, you really do have to confirm that they are identical to begin with. Minor manufacturing changes are common enough that you really can't compare a unit you bought six months ago with a similar one you just bought and assume that there is NOT a batch-to-batch difference between them. I would disagree that planar speakers and headphones "can't/won't burn in". The diaphragm is a mechanical moving part, and so is "suspended" - either by tension, or by being attached to some flexible suspension at the edges. Whichever method they used, it is subject to mechanical change over time - which would almost always cause the suspension to soften - which would lower the resonant frequency - and possible alter the Q as well. The same is true for electrostatic speakers and headphones (although I would expect it to be less pronounced than with dynamic speakers and cans). I had a pair of HiFiMan 500's for several months, and I can't honestly say that I noticed them change over time, but I must say that they sounded rather distinctly different than other headphones I owned at the same time - definitely to the point where they sounded "different" than all my other phones at first, and there was a "period of familiarization" over which they started "sounding normal" and other headphones less so... because of my becoming used to the way they sounded. I always find this to be the case with speakers. If they actually changed over time as well, that change was "buried" in the other differences to the point where I never noticed it. (I have several different pairs of headphones, so I switch back and forth often enough that I don't get "burned in" to any given one.) I also have to say, though, that the differences between headphone models are so extreme that, unless you listen to only one, they far overshadow any changes that a given pair might go through. You should also realize that planar headphones are somewhat notorious for changing from batch to batch and over different manufacturing dates - certain manufacturers seem to incessantly tweak the sound of their more expensive models. (I've often heard certain Audeze models being discussed based on what month they were purchased... and what "generation" they were.) In case anyone was wondering, I rather liked the HiFiMan 500's, although I found them a bit too "smooth and laid back" for a lot of music (but they sounded very nice with female vocals). They were not what I would call "uncolored", but they did sound very nice. When I had them, I ran them on a Schiit Audio Mjolnir (which sounded very nice with them), although they played pretty well with the headphone amps in most of our equipment, and I never had any trouble getting them to play loud enough. I never did get around to trying them with a MiniX (although the HE-500's are a rather easy to drive model and so don't really need massive amounts of power like some other HiFiMan models). I finally parted with them because, after moving from an apartment into a house, I simply don't use headphones enough to justify supporting "a large ecosystem" of expensive headphones and headphone amps... so I found them and the Mjolnir a good home. I'll also relate an interesting story to you - about how those HiFiMan 500's were the only time I've ever personally experienced "unhappiness" with the way a certain cable sounded. When I purchased them, they shipped with a custom version of a cable that was quite thin, and made of twisted strands of what appeared to be solid conductor silver plated wire with teflon insulation; it was rather attractive, and sort of silvery looking (and it didn't tangle easily); I've seen those cables sell for about $125 as a replacement cable. Unfortunately, the wire was also so stiff that it would make a sort of clattering noise when you moved (especially if it rubbed or banged together); and, when it did so, the noise was transmitted right through the stiff wire to the earcups; even shifting in your chair sounded sort of like someone was tapping on the earpiece with a pencil. It was so annoying that the first thing I did was to put together a new cable using nice, soft, quiet, Canare StarQuad wire (Incidentally, since the HiFiMan's have individually wired earpieces with separate connectors, it's easy to find or make a balanced cable for them - which is what the Mjolnir requires. ) I purchased an Emo UPA-200 to drive Hifiman HE-6 headphones through the speaker connections, based on the advice from many on the Head-Fi forums. I had purchased the matching Hifiman EF-6 amp for $1,600, but I was told the Emo Mini or the UPA-200 would be better. I just got the UPA-200 connected and right out of the box it is not as good as the EF-6. I know there is a big difference between $1,600 and $350, but there is definitely a difference in detail.
I so want the UPA-200 to be THE amp and I am hoping there is a burn-in factor at work. The HE-6's have about 80 hours on them and they have definitely improved with the EF-6 from the beginning.
Have others experienced the Emo amps getting better with use? If so, are we looking at 50, 100, 150+ hours?
Thanks for your help! It will not change in sound. It is what it is. The HE-6's are planar magnetic, it's literally impossible for them to break in. Just some food for though, the Head-fi guys can be pretty nuts. I've had pretty much every high end headphone on the market, including the HE-6 and still do. I drive mine with a Ncore class D amp. They are awesome headphones!!
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bootman
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Typing useless posts on internet forums....
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Post by bootman on May 30, 2014 10:28:42 GMT -5
Since our - human - audio memory is so variable, none of us can remember the way something sounded last week, or even ten minutes ago, accurately enough to be sure. So true and proven by this simple test. So when one looks at a $1500 amp vs a $350 one are you hearing something real or perceived? NOTE: this is of course if we measure no differences between amps using the same test load AND are operating them without clipping at the exact same level.
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on May 30, 2014 10:33:44 GMT -5
What's amazing to me is these sorts of threads keep coming around over and over, both here and elsewhere on the Webz. IMO it's an example of the power of extrapolation: some electrical phenomenon is known to exist and so audio folks extrapolate that it has effects in the audible realm and insist on all sorts of "remedies" for it.
Hey, I can cure them all with this magic box or cable or crystal pyramid. And it's only $1400! Buy two!
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Post by brand on May 30, 2014 10:36:40 GMT -5
I felt my xpa1's and xpa5 amps sounded good right out of the box - about 90% burned in after 10 hours and fully burned in after 20 hours. It's important Emotiva amps are connected directly into the wall or in a non-current limiting conditioner. Can anybody confirm this? There's no way I could connect all my amps directly into the wall. Normal power strip seemed to do the job (wouldn't know it its current limiting though)
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Post by monkumonku on May 30, 2014 10:43:36 GMT -5
What's amazing to me is these sorts of threads keep coming around over and over, both here and elsewhere on the Webz. IMO it's an example of the power of extrapolation: some electrical phenomenon is known to exist and so audio folks extrapolate that it has effects in the audible realm and insist on all sorts of "remedies" for it. Hey, I can cure them all with this magic box or cable or crystal pyramid. And it's only $1400! Buy two! Question: does your magic box or crystal pyramid need any warm up or burn in time?
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on May 30, 2014 10:44:10 GMT -5
I felt my xpa1's and xpa5 amps sounded good right out of the box - about 90% burned in after 10 hours and fully burned in after 20 hours. It's important Emotiva amps are connected directly into the wall or in a non-current limiting conditioner. Can anybody confirm this? There's no way I could connect all my amps directly into the wall. Normal power strip seemed to do the job (wouldn't know it its current limiting though) Emotiva has always recommended plugging their amps directly into the outlet, but there is no reason why a good power strip is not acceptable. Heck, Emotiva even sells them... shop.emotiva.com/collections/accessories/products/cmx6
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DYohn
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Posts: 18,361
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Post by DYohn on May 30, 2014 10:45:29 GMT -5
What's amazing to me is these sorts of threads keep coming around over and over, both here and elsewhere on the Webz. IMO it's an example of the power of extrapolation: some electrical phenomenon is known to exist and so audio folks extrapolate that it has effects in the audible realm and insist on all sorts of "remedies" for it. Hey, I can cure them all with this magic box or cable or crystal pyramid. And it's only $1400! Buy two! Question: does your magic box or crystal pyramid need any warm up or burn in time? Mine are delivered pre-burned-in, conditioned by the Universe with magic electrons that have existed since the beginning of time! It's plug and play, baby!
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Post by lionear on May 30, 2014 11:14:40 GMT -5
I guess there are a range of viewpoints.
My take on the "XX day warranty" thing is that manufacturers are required to give some sort of warranty coverage. They'd like it to be as short as possible while the buyer would like to have it as long as possible. The legal norm has turned out to be 30 days from the time of purchase, which really translates to about 3 weeks once one accounts for the shipping time. It's got nothing to do with the quality of the gear or how long it will take to sound its best.
The designer of Decware says that his gear goes through about 5 good-bad-good cycles before they're fully broken in.
To me, my XPA-100s started out very nice, then was a bit muddy and the dynamics were somewhat limited, then everything cleared up and there was additional detail. I got the amps right after Thanksgiving, and they were fully broken in by the end of January. I played them a lot during that time.
A magazine review of the XPR-1 on the Emotiva site mentioned a slight "peak" in female vocals. I heard the same thing on my XPA-100, and it was a slight cause for concern. But that cleared up after break-in.
(Suggestion to the Emotiva guys: you might want to run your amps (at high volume) for a couple of months before sending them to a reviewer. At worst, it's just a waste of time. But I think everyone can agree that it can't hurt.)
Your experience will, however, depend on the rest of your system, type of music you listen to, and many other factors.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 30, 2014 13:49:46 GMT -5
Anything that restricts the current flow will be a problem for big amps that need a lot of current. (We're talking about anything that restricts the current flow via resistance; a normal circuit breaker or fuse should NOT do this.) Such things that can and sometimes do cause problems include: 1) Especially long or especially thin extension cords. 2) Some high-end devices that actually totally regenerate the sine wave of the power waveform. (These are usually very expensive; you'd know it if you had one). 3) Some really LOW-end power strips that are wired with thin wire (or that have low quality outlets and wiring "molded into" the casing itself). 4) Some low end power strips that have poor quality filters, other circuitry, or circuit breakers in them. 5) Some power filters. 6) Low quality house wiring (or really long runs from the circuit breaker panel with too-thin wire). The basic issue is that big power amps need to have access to large amounts of current at the proper voltage. If there is significant limitation on that, usually because there is some component introducing resistance between the amp and the power mains, then the amp will suffer from reduced performance. The reality is that most basic power strips and surge suppressors, and even most filters, are just fine... (If you have any doubts, simply try the amp directly into the wall; if you notice an improvement, then your power strip was one of the ones that causes a problem, so you should find a different one.) Unfortunately, there are some "audiophile power filters" and such devices out there that actually are that bad, and that do limit the available current or introduce unacceptable levels of resistance. (Some of them simply aren't designed to run "heavy" equipment like power amps; others are just badly designed.) However, odds are that a $20 Belkin or APC power strip or surge suppressor from Home Depot will work just fine. Here's a really easy test that usually works..... Find a lamp with an INCANDESCENT bulb; and plug it into another outlet on the same strip or device as your amp. Turn on the lamp. Play the amplifier as loudly as you would normally ever do. If the lamp dims noticeably when the music gets really loud, then you probably have a problem. If not, then don't worry about it. Don't expect the lamp to go out, but odds are, if the voltage is dropping enough to bother the amp, then you'll see the bulb waver. I felt my xpa1's and xpa5 amps sounded good right out of the box - about 90% burned in after 10 hours and fully burned in after 20 hours. It's important Emotiva amps are connected directly into the wall or in a non-current limiting conditioner. Can anybody confirm this? There's no way I could connect all my amps directly into the wall. Normal power strip seemed to do the job (wouldn't know it its current limiting though)
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Post by Shaker on May 30, 2014 14:52:16 GMT -5
You should also realize that planar headphones are somewhat notorious for changing from batch to batch and over different manufacturing dates - certain manufacturers seem to incessantly tweak the sound of their more expensive models. (I've often heard certain Audeze models being discussed based on what month they were purchased... and what "generation" they were.) Truth. Audeze seems to be among the most notorious. Maybe it's in part because they're such a young business. It's frustrating for many that they will make physical changes to a model without changing it's name (e.g. the fazor on the LCD-2 and LCD-3). And like Keith said, you need to know the manufacture date -- the serial numbers are not sequential. While it's great that they seem motivated to improve their products, it leads to a lot of confusion and frustration. Not all vendors seem to understand this. I asked a Cructhfield rep if their LCD-3 was pre or post fazor and he had no idea what I was talking about. At least he agreed to ask Audeze.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2014 14:59:48 GMT -5
I've just got to pop in with my 2 cents here..... Personally, I've never experienced what I would call "confirmed audible burn-in" with a modern piece of audio electronics. It certainly happens with mechanical devices like speakers and headphones, and with tube equipment, but I am more inclined to believe that it is simply that we (I) get used to a particular piece of electronics than that they are actually changing in the amount necessary to be audible. I can confirm, from long experience with test equipment, that certain electronic components absolutely do "drift" and "settle in" after time, and many change characteristics with temperature. However, it's usually things like DC bias current which drift, which is why you adjust sensitive meters after a thorough burn-in period... and also after making sure they're warmed up when you make the actual adjustment. And, yes, even though they have circuitry to minimize the change, our amps will draw different bias when they're warm; which is why virtually everyone recommends adjusting power amp bias when the amp is at "normal operating temperature". However, most amps are designed so that this sort of difference has minimum effect on the AC characteristics of the amp, and I personally can't say I've ever heard it. Since our - human - audio memory is so variable, none of us can remember the way something sounded last week, or even ten minutes ago, accurately enough to be sure. The only real way to test this would be to procure two identical units of a given model, confirm that the really do sound identical to begin with, then run one for a month while the other one sits in a closet; then, at the end of that month, warm them both up for an hour, and see if you can NOW hear a difference. (I've never heard of anybody actually doing this test - this is one of those "age old questions" that nobody seems especially eager to "answer". My guess would be that most equipment won't show any change, but some few devices might.) And, yes, you really do have to confirm that they are identical to begin with. Minor manufacturing changes are common enough that you really can't compare a unit you bought six months ago with a similar one you just bought and assume that there is NOT a batch-to-batch difference between them. I would disagree that planar speakers and headphones "can't/won't burn in". The diaphragm is a mechanical moving part, and so is "suspended" - either by tension, or by being attached to some flexible suspension at the edges. Whichever method they used, it is subject to mechanical change over time - which would almost always cause the suspension to soften - which would lower the resonant frequency - and possible alter the Q as well. The same is true for electrostatic speakers and headphones (although I would expect it to be less pronounced than with dynamic speakers and cans). I had a pair of HiFiMan 500's for several months, and I can't honestly say that I noticed them change over time, but I must say that they sounded rather distinctly different than other headphones I owned at the same time - definitely to the point where they sounded "different" than all my other phones at first, and there was a "period of familiarization" over which they started "sounding normal" and other headphones less so... because of my becoming used to the way they sounded. I always find this to be the case with speakers. If they actually changed over time as well, that change was "buried" in the other differences to the point where I never noticed it. (I have several different pairs of headphones, so I switch back and forth often enough that I don't get "burned in" to any given one.) I also have to say, though, that the differences between headphone models are so extreme that, unless you listen to only one, they far overshadow any changes that a given pair might go through. You should also realize that planar headphones are somewhat notorious for changing from batch to batch and over different manufacturing dates - certain manufacturers seem to incessantly tweak the sound of their more expensive models. (I've often heard certain Audeze models being discussed based on what month they were purchased... and what "generation" they were.) In case anyone was wondering, I rather liked the HiFiMan 500's, although I found them a bit too "smooth and laid back" for a lot of music (but they sounded very nice with female vocals). They were not what I would call "uncolored", but they did sound very nice. When I had them, I ran them on a Schiit Audio Mjolnir (which sounded very nice with them), although they played pretty well with the headphone amps in most of our equipment, and I never had any trouble getting them to play loud enough. I never did get around to trying them with a MiniX (although the HE-500's are a rather easy to drive model and so don't really need massive amounts of power like some other HiFiMan models). I finally parted with them because, after moving from an apartment into a house, I simply don't use headphones enough to justify supporting "a large ecosystem" of expensive headphones and headphone amps... so I found them and the Mjolnir a good home. I'll also relate an interesting story to you - about how those HiFiMan 500's were the only time I've ever personally experienced "unhappiness" with the way a certain cable sounded. When I purchased them, they shipped with a custom version of a cable that was quite thin, and made of twisted strands of what appeared to be solid conductor silver plated wire with teflon insulation; it was rather attractive, and sort of silvery looking (and it didn't tangle easily); I've seen those cables sell for about $125 as a replacement cable. Unfortunately, the wire was also so stiff that it would make a sort of clattering noise when you moved (especially if it rubbed or banged together); and, when it did so, the noise was transmitted right through the stiff wire to the earcups; even shifting in your chair sounded sort of like someone was tapping on the earpiece with a pencil. It was so annoying that the first thing I did was to put together a new cable using nice, soft, quiet, Canare StarQuad wire (Incidentally, since the HiFiMan's have individually wired earpieces with separate connectors, it's easy to find or make a balanced cable for them - which is what the Mjolnir requires. ) It will not change in sound. It is what it is. The HE-6's are planar magnetic, it's literally impossible for them to break in. Just some food for though, the Head-fi guys can be pretty nuts. I've had pretty much every high end headphone on the market, including the HE-6 and still do. I drive mine with a Ncore class D amp. They are awesome headphones!! I want you to watch this : www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I2lyIQDC24The diaphram is literally impossible to loosen up. The He-500's are great headphones though, planars do have a unique sound. LCD's phones are nice but the weight is to much IMO.
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Post by bitsandbytes on May 30, 2014 15:36:53 GMT -5
A good number of power strips and power conditioners will negatively impede the sudden flow of current required during certain passages by an amplifier. When I previously moved my XPA-5 from a Monster power strip to a wall outlet, this resulted in an increase in bass performance, dynamics and slam coming from my Paradigm Studio 20 speakers. The key words to look for is "noncurrent limiting" - or words to that effect. The CMX-6 is a power distribution center. It states "will not limit peak current". Just like plugging your amp directly into a wall outlet. I rated my audible change in performance as not a night and day nor significant improvement - nor merely as marginally better - more like a "plainly noticeable" improvement. Without spending money, after about 10 hours of amp break in, if you cannot plug your amp cord directly into a wall outlet, I would run a heavy duty extension cord from your amp cord to the same (preferably) or to another wall outlet. Start at very low volumes - in case of a ground loop being started - if going to a different outlet. If you like what you hear, than I would suggest the Emotiva CMX-6 or another product of that caliber. Glad I read Keith's post before I sent this. His method with the incandescent bulb seems much easier. If I did a similar experiment - and looked out my window and saw my neighbors' porch lights start to dim the higher I cranked my XPA-1 amps, I wonder if there would be a problem lol. Probably mine - from the neck up. Lastly, amps do sound different. Let your ears be the ONLY judge of which amp you will keep. It's all about being happy with your purchase. I felt my xpa1's and xpa5 amps sounded good right out of the box - about 90% burned in after 10 hours and fully burned in after 20 hours. It's important Emotiva amps are connected directly into the wall or in a non-current limiting conditioner. so are you suggesting he moves up to the xpa 1 mono blocks for better sound and member ship in the mono block society? Deltdube, that mono block society membership sounds like fun. Probably the first club I ever joined that did not try to hit me up for money.
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Post by regulator on May 30, 2014 16:47:21 GMT -5
No
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Post by gcannon on May 30, 2014 16:49:36 GMT -5
I wouldn't think that there would be any large fluctuations in sound with any amount of burnin. I'm guessing that they are voiced differently and/or the speaker connector is potentially changing the sound. What speaker connector do you have? Or is it simply a wiring harness? I had a special connector made with a female 4-pin XLR that connects to the HE-6 and has 4 banana plugs that go into the speaker taps. This is the standard custom cable that is used with the HE-6 to connect direct to a speaker amp. The guy who makes them has done many for the folks at Head-Fi and comes highly recommended. I do connect the 4-pin XLR directly to the XLR connection on the EF-6 amp, so that is a difference but I would not think it would be that noticable.
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Post by gcannon on May 30, 2014 16:53:46 GMT -5
You use nCores for your headphones? Damn! Nice and dead silent... i just be scared that one might turn the volume up accidentally and blow the drivers right out of a set of cans. There was someone else here who posted about using his mini-x and was very happy with that. Maybe he can chime in to see if something isn't quite setup right. Oh for sure you have to be careful! The HE-6's are super hard to drive and there are only a handful of headphone amps that can do so properly, i had an extra Ncore laying around and gave it a try! It's awesome! I know a few guys that do the same. I have a Bryston 4BST stereo amp I will try this weekend.
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novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,230
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Post by novisnick on May 30, 2014 17:24:46 GMT -5
A good number of power strips and power conditioners will negatively impede the sudden flow of current required during certain passages by an amplifier. When I previously moved my XPA-5 from a Monster power strip to a wall outlet, this resulted in an increase in bass performance, dynamics and slam coming from my Paradigm Studio 20 speakers. The key words to look for is "noncurrent limiting" - or words to that effect. The CMX-6 is a power distribution center. It states "will not limit peak current". Just like plugging your amp directly into a wall outlet. I rated my audible change in performance as not a night and day nor significant improvement - nor merely as marginally better - more like a "plainly noticeable" improvement. Without spending money, after about 10 hours of amp break in, if you cannot plug your amp cord directly into a wall outlet, I would run a heavy duty extension cord from your amp cord to the same (preferably) or to another wall outlet. Start at very low volumes - in case of a ground loop being started - if going to a different outlet. If you like what you hear, than I would suggest the Emotiva CMX-6 or another product of that caliber. Glad I read Keith's post before I sent this. His method with the incandescent bulb seems much easier. If I did a similar experiment - and looked out my window and saw my neighbors' porch lights start to dim the higher I cranked my XPA-1 amps, I wonder if there would be a problem lol. Probably mine - from the neck up. Lastly, amps do sound different. Let your ears be the ONLY judge of which amp you will keep. It's all about being happy with your purchase. so are you suggesting he moves up to the xpa 1 mono blocks for better sound and member ship in the mono block society? Deltdube, that mono block society membership sounds like fun. Probably the first club I ever joined that did not try to hit me up for money. We here at The MONOBLOCK SOCIETY would like to extend an open invitation to all forum members at this time. there is no fee but membership does require at least one MONOBLOCK amp from any manufacturer, Emotiva monos get you a key to the wash room though. novisnick CEO MONOBLOCK SOCIETY . .
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Post by drtrey3 on May 31, 2014 9:43:30 GMT -5
Let's just say for fun that your amps do need to burn in. You will need to listen to them a lot to get that to happen!
Now let's just say for fun that your amps do not need to burn in. You will want to listen to them a lot to enjoy them!
Burn in is a distinction without a difference in my mind.
Trey
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Post by bitsandbytes on May 31, 2014 12:45:17 GMT -5
We here at The MONOBLOCK SOCIETY would like to extend an open invitation to all forum members at this time. there is no fee but membership does require at least one MONOBLOCK amp from any manufacturer, Emotiva monos get you a key to the wash room though. novisnick CEO MONOBLOCK SOCIETY . . Am very excited to get my very own key to the washroom! I'll probably get to keep it till my first beer fart sends everyone running for fresh air. By the way, congrats on your appointment to CEO of the Monoblock Society. It is a very important position which involves ... uhm, what are your duties and responsibilities as CEO lol?
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novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,230
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Post by novisnick on May 31, 2014 12:50:07 GMT -5
We here at The MONOBLOCK SOCIETY would like to extend an open invitation to all forum members at this time. there is no fee but membership does require at least one MONOBLOCK amp from any manufacturer, Emotiva monos get you a key to the wash room though. novisnick CEO MONOBLOCK SOCIETY . . Am very excited to get my very own key to the washroom! I'll probably get to keep it till my first beer fart sends everyone running for fresh air. By the way, congrats on your appointment to CEO of the Monoblock Society. It is a very important position which involves ... uhm, what are your duties and responsibilities as CEO lol? One of my most inportant duties is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, to to air out the washroom,,,,,, . ,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,, . ,,,,,,,,,, along with a long list of other duties. yes!, saying welcome and glad to have you is another!! the pay stinks,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but it SOUNDED GOOD!!!!!!
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Post by bluemeanies on May 31, 2014 12:50:52 GMT -5
We here at The MONOBLOCK SOCIETY would like to extend an open invitation to all forum members at this time. there is no fee but membership does require at least one MONOBLOCK amp from any manufacturer, Emotiva monos get you a key to the wash room though. novisnick CEO MONOBLOCK SOCIETY . . Am very excited to get my very own key to the washroom! I'll probably get to keep it till my first beer fart sends everyone running for fresh air. By the way, congrats on your appointment to CEO of the Monoblock Society. It is a very important position which involves ... uhm, what are your duties and responsibilities as CEO lol? Making sure there is plenty of air fresheners available for those beer fart moments..haha Great conversation by the way...haha
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