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Post by kNarf627 on Oct 3, 2014 3:13:23 GMT -5
I recently received my A100, but have not been able to get it to turn one.
The first time I turned it on the blue light went on for a split second and then off. I realised that the setting was on 115V and because I am in Australia it should be set at 230V. However even at 230V nothing happens and it doesnt turn on.
Settings are currently as follows:
Power switch: ON
Power AC 230V
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
kNarf
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vs890
Minor Hero
Posts: 42
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Post by vs890 on Oct 3, 2014 3:16:54 GMT -5
Fuse blown?
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Post by kNarf627 on Oct 3, 2014 3:20:11 GMT -5
Is there a way to check / fix it?
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Post by linvincible on Oct 3, 2014 9:28:34 GMT -5
I received 2 fuses with mine so I guess it's replaceable, just need to open the hood (unplug unit first!)
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Post by Dark Ranger on Oct 3, 2014 11:45:34 GMT -5
Definitely check the fuse since the unit was fired up with an incorrect voltage setting.
One other thing: are you using a trigger to turn it on? What happens if you set the silver 3-position Power Mode switch on the rear to ON (along with the rocker switch set to ON as well)? If the silver toggle is on AUTO, it will turn on only when it senses signal at a specific level.
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Post by ansat on Oct 3, 2014 11:59:03 GMT -5
Definitely check the fuse since the unit was fired up with an incorrect voltage setting. One other thing: are you using a trigger to turn it on? What happens if you set the silver 3-position Power Mode switch on the rear to ON (along with the rocker switch set to ON as well)? If the silver toggle is on AUTO, it will turn on only when it senses signal at a specific level. I just played with mine. Standby is always orange regardless of the trigger switch. I don't think that the switch is the trouble. Tony |
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Post by Dark Ranger on Oct 3, 2014 12:18:07 GMT -5
^ It is true that Standby is always orange. However, the mini-X can be "forced" to turn on by placing the silver toggle to the ON position (rather than AUTO or OFF). This would be a quick test to determine if the amp can come out of standby at all. I don't believe it's an issue with the actual toggle switch.  If the rocker switch is ON and the metal toggle is switch up (ON), but the amp does not turn on, then it narrows down the problem. Probably a fuse since the voltage switch was incorrect. Hopefully nothing more serious. |
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Post by ansat on Oct 3, 2014 12:20:10 GMT -5
Looking at the statement again. There is no specification of it the light is orange or off.
Tony
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Post by Dark Ranger on Oct 3, 2014 12:39:53 GMT -5
Yes, kNarf627 does not mention anything about an orange Standby light, just the momentary blue light. However, the normal operation for the mini-X when it receives initial power (at least the Gen1 model I owned) is that it'll turn on (blue) for a moment. Whether it stays on or turns off immediately is determined by the silver toggle position and incoming trigger/audio signal. Since the momentary blue light is part of the normal power-up sequence, I was just trying to make sure the silver toggle wasn't set in "OFF" or "AUTO" mode, which would make the amp perform as indicated below: The first time I turned it on the blue light went on for a split second and then off. I don't own my mini-X any longer so I cannot open up the chassis and point out the location of the fuse. Hopefully someone else here can do that. Otherwise, try to get in contact with Emotiva support. |
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Lonnie
Emo Staff 
admin
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain
Posts: 6,999
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Post by Lonnie on Oct 3, 2014 12:55:18 GMT -5
You just popped the fuse. Unplug it from the wall, take the top off and if you look halfway up the chassis on the left hand side (if the amp is facing toward you) and you will see a small board with some noise chokes and a 19mm fuse holder. Replace that fuse and you should be in business. Lonnie |
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knarf
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3 
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Post by knarf on Oct 3, 2014 19:48:27 GMT -5
Thank you for all your response. I am going to attempt to replace the fuse, unfortunately I have absolutely no idea bout this stuff. I ll need to buy a fuse as I did not get one with mine =[. I it simply a 19mm fuse?.
Also the trigger was on AUTO i believe. I have tried setting it to ON and AUTO but to no effect.
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knarf
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3
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Post by knarf on Oct 3, 2014 20:18:10 GMT -5
I took look inside and located the fuse and it was black, so I assumed it had been blown. I replaced it with a fuse that I had in my bottlehead crack and double checked that all the settings were right. 230 AV Power switch "ON" and turned it on.
It did the same thing where it turned on blue then died again. So i guess I need to replace the fuse for my bottlehead crack as well? Is there a reason why it might be killing the fuse everytime? Is the fuse from the bottlehead crack not compatible with the Emotiva A100?
Thanks for your help.
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Post by dally on Oct 3, 2014 20:38:24 GMT -5
The fuses should say what size they are. I would pull them out and compare them. Maybe the fuse from your bottlehead crack was too small?
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Post by garbulky on Oct 3, 2014 20:45:30 GMT -5
I think there is another issue. Either your mini-x needs servicing or you have accidentally shorted the speaker wires or have a bad RCA interconnect. Try disconnecting EVERYTHING. And trying again.
IS THE ORANGE LIGHT TURNING ON?
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Post by wizardofoz on Oct 3, 2014 22:08:28 GMT -5
You maybe cooked the winding on one of the 115 volt pairs. If thats the case you will need a new transformer too and fuse. I assume you did move the voltage switch to 230v
Where are you in oz...I'll be down there in the Gold Coast ad do a lot of emo repairs up here in Singapore. Its normally a pretty simple swap out out of the pasts for a transformer replacement with no soldering etc needed.
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Post by plm on Oct 3, 2014 22:20:45 GMT -5
You need the correct value fuse. Look at the original one from the amp that blew and on one of its endcaps it'll have a rating - something like T500mA 250V or 1A 250V. You just need to get a new fuse with the exact same rating, and it is important to note whether there is a leading 'T' or not, since that signifies a time-delay or slow-blow fuse.
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knarf
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3
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Post by knarf on Oct 3, 2014 22:28:15 GMT -5
Hi everyone,
I got it working!
Had a look at the fuse values and turns out the bottlehead crack uses a 1A 250V fuse and the one in the Emotiva A100 was a 1.6A 250V. The person at the electronic stall told me that it was a slow blow fuse but they did not have 1.6A slow blow so he gave me 1.5A slow blow instead. Seems to be working, anyone see any problem with this? Should I keep looking for a 1.6A slowblow? I also got a 1.6A fast blow but it looks very flimsy.
Thanks everyone who replied, you guys were great.
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Post by ansat on Oct 3, 2014 22:30:20 GMT -5
Excellent news knarf. Bet that's a relief!
Tony
Sent from my SM-G900P
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Post by plm on Oct 4, 2014 21:18:24 GMT -5
The person at the electronic stall told me that it was a slow blow fuse but they did not have 1.6A slow blow so he gave me 1.5A slow blow instead. Seems to be working, anyone see any problem with this? Should I keep looking for a 1.6A slowblow? No, you've got nothing to worry about by going to a 1.5A. You've downrated it, which means the fuse could conceivably pop again, but it's way safer to do that than to uprate the fuse. And going from 1.6A to 1.5A means it's very unlikely to happen. You have the correct time rating (slow blow) so you're good. |
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Post by wizardofoz on Oct 6, 2014 3:56:47 GMT -5
0.1A difference is not going to make a huge difference unless you really push the amp at max volume and even then it will probably sound too loud before you can stand any more and the fuse would possibly pop.
Just remember a fuse is there primarily to protect from fire and the typically misunderstood reason to save the electronics. Most silicon devices will blow before a slow blow fuse is even close to letting go.
You should be fine, but if in doubt get the Emotiva support guys to mail you a couple of the correct value.
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