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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2015 19:29:00 GMT -5
I'm intrigued by the idea of having/building a pair of horns for my upcoming UXL 18 purchase. I've been looking at the Gjhallerhorn v2 and "Submaximus" a design by Ltd02 over on "the other" forum. Any thoughts? I know there's a couple guys here that can help with this, so please speak up.  Thanks, Ivor |
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Post by sebastianr on Apr 25, 2015 7:17:56 GMT -5
The Gjallarhorn V2 is an incredible subwoofer. It replaced 3 SubMersive HP's and I don't feel I lost anything in output. I feel the Ghorn has given me even more output than ever before. The Ghorn doesn't go as low as the 3 SM's did in my room. On the "Bass I Love You" track, I do miss the extreme low frequencies. But I just couldn't afford adding more and more HP's.
I didn't build my Ghorn, someone else did and I bought it from him, so can't advise you regarding the complexity of the build.
The sub is huge, 45"X45"X24" and you can't really hide it. When people come over they ask, "What is THAT?". Mine is veneered in black oak to match the rest of my speakers, but still, the thing is HUGE. Sometimes, when I watch a movie and I really turn it up, I am scared of what is happening to my house. And I have never taken it to anywhere near its max potential. I have no idea why people are using 2 or even 4 Ghorns, or a pair of Ghorns and a pair of Othorns. (Probably for room smoothing and covering different frequency ranges, but I can't imagine needing more output.) For sheer output, I tell you one Ghorn is scary enough! But to each their own.
If you choose a Ghorn and put the UXL-18 driver in it, you will not be disappointed. I can't speak to the Submaximus because I never really looked into it. Ltd02 is a really smart guy and I am sure he can advise you better than I can.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2015 9:14:18 GMT -5
The Gjallarhorn V2 is an incredible subwoofer. It replaced 3 SubMersive HP's and I don't feel I lost anything in output. I feel the Ghorn has given me even more output than ever before. The Ghorn doesn't go as low as the 3 SM's did in my room. On the "Bass I Love You" track, I do miss the extreme low frequencies. But I just couldn't afford adding more and more HP's. I didn't build my Ghorn, someone else did and I bought it from him, so can't advise you regarding the complexity of the build. The sub is huge, 45"X45"X24" and you can't really hide it. When people come over they ask, "What is THAT?". Mine is veneered in black oak to match the rest of my speakers, but still, the thing is HUGE. Sometimes, when I watch a movie and I really turn it up, I am scared of what is happening to my house. And I have never taken it to anywhere near its max potential. I have no idea why people are using 2 or even 4 Ghorns, or a pair of Ghorns and a pair of Othorns. (Probably for room smoothing and covering different frequency ranges, but I can't imagine needing more output.) For sheer output, I tell you one Ghorn is scary enough! But to each their own. If you choose a Ghorn and put the UXL-18 driver in it, you will not be disappointed. I can't speak to the Submaximus because I never really looked into it. Ltd02 is a really smart guy and I am sure he can advise you better than I can. I'm looking for the cleanest most effortless bass I can find from 18ish Hz up.. I was thinking of using some REAL Baltic birch, I've discussed this with a few of my "counterparts" from the other forum but was looking for input here as well.  If it's comparable to 3 hp's I'm already getting excited.. thanks for your input. Ivor |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Apr 25, 2015 9:16:13 GMT -5
Horn-loaded subs can sound great, but can be really difficult to build and to make sound "right." I've done a couple of Bill Fitzmaurice's Tubas following his plans. Although they did sound nice and the client was happy I have never been 100% happy with the results. It's folded horn for an 18: www.billfitzmaurice.com/T18.htmlI've been wanting to build something based on Tom Danley's tapped horn series as every one I've ever heard was darn good. A good friend in Bakersfield built a clone of his DTS20 using a Fi 18" driver and holy-moly that thing rattled your teeth and we measured 100db @ 16Hz (the practical limit of my RTA.) |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2015 9:37:33 GMT -5
Horn-loaded subs can sound great, but can be really difficult to build and to make sound "right." I've done a couple of Bill Fitzmaurice's Tubas following his plans. Although they did sound nice and the client was happy I have never been 100% happy with the results. It's folded horn for an 18: www.billfitzmaurice.com/T18.htmlI've been wanting to build something based on Tom Danley's tapped horn series as every one I've ever heard was darn good. A good friend in Bakersfield built a clone of his DTS20 using a Fi 18" driver and holy-moly that thing rattled your teeth and we measured 100db @ 16Hz (the practical limit of my RTA.) Thanks Dyohn, I was hoping you'd chime in..I'll check that out as well. What was it you weren't happy with on the BFM designs? I look at the simulated projected response and it's full of huge peaks, is this what makes it so difficult to sound "right" ? I was looking at the dts10 but I'm already committed to my upcoming UXL drivers and frankly I just love "excess".haha. |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Apr 25, 2015 10:58:51 GMT -5
To me the Tuba tended to "boom" about 100Hz. If it was crossed at 60 or so it was great at providing some very low end reinforcement, but in an HT with LFE up to 120Hz it just didn't sound right. IMO anyway. I have never used any of the Mach 5 drivers, but the UXL looks like a good machine to build around. Have fun! My passion lately has been open baffle, which is sort of the opposite extreme from getting all horny. |
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