|
|
Post by novisnick on Oct 10, 2015 14:01:48 GMT -5
If this is the case, then I believe Emotiva forgot to have vents and feet on the XPR's sides. Either way, I'd check with Emotiva tech support. Nothing like trapped hot air to cook one's solid state electronics.  As the adage goes... hot air rises! 
 |
|
|
|
Post by teaman on Oct 10, 2015 14:04:37 GMT -5
As the adage goes... hot air rises!
View AttachmentDo you mean cruising...although there probably are some people cursing out there.....hahaha! |
|
|
|
Post by novisnick on Oct 10, 2015 14:12:09 GMT -5
Ladies and gentlemen, this forum will be cursing at 20,000 ft due to the amout of hot air in the cabin! ha,,,,,ha,,,,,ha,,,,,
Do you mean cruising...although there probably are some people cursing out there.....hahaha! Spell check? Or a slip? Y'all decide. |
|
|
|
Post by lehighvalleyjeff on Oct 11, 2015 23:52:37 GMT -5
My XPR-1's are on amp stands and I use cooling fans to dissipate the heat that they generate. It is normal for them to generate heat and run warm; however in the interest of longevity I think cooling fans are a small insurance policy. If the amps fail they are inconvenient and expensive to ship for repair with or without the warranty so I just like to be safe.
They are amazing amps and your setup looks great. Gorgeous Camaro too btw
|
|
|
|
Post by Kent on Oct 11, 2015 23:53:53 GMT -5
I agree with the others that the XPR-1 should be flat to allow for proper cooling by way of convection. Looking at you system pic I would put all your amps on the top shelf (XPR-1's on far left and right with the XPA-5 in the middle). XMC-1 and sources below on the other shelves which appear to be empty space. Just a friendly thought !
|
|
|
|
Post by rocky500 on Oct 12, 2015 3:55:08 GMT -5
I agree with the others that the XPR-1 should be flat to allow for proper cooling by way of convection. Looking at you system pic I would put all your amps on the top shelf (XPR-1's on far left and right with the XPA-5 in the middle). XMC-1 and sources below on the other shelves which appear to be empty space. Just a friendly thought ! Also I had a similar rack with Glass shelves. I took one of my glass shelves down to the local shop who makes cupboards, shelving, benchtops, flooring etc from solid bamboo boards and got them to make up shelves the same size. Then swapped them over on my rack. I got 19mm for the bottom and double for the top shelf 38mm. Its is very strong now, looks great and no more glass! Here is my narrow hifi rack shelves.  |
|
|
|
Post by goozoo on Oct 12, 2015 15:04:01 GMT -5
No doubt as you build cars, you are aware of how airflow works. The one thing to keep in mind here is to use the fans to pull the hot air out of the units and to not push dirty air INTO the unit. Some people think sticking a fan from behind to cool the components is the answer but it is not. Also, I would suggest getting the amps off the carpet and onto a low shelf or stand of some kind. I had the same issue with my Mark Levinson mono blocks.
Just wonder how many here can appreciate the pics you have posted of the car you built? A lot of upgrades. Nice!
|
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Oct 12, 2015 16:04:28 GMT -5
Also the 30 watts class A biasing is thermally regulated. They mentioned something about it where fans may affect some settings though I'm not sure how it could. Maybe KeithL could tell us a little bit more about what Emotiva reccomends. |
|
|
|
Post by dudeisms7 on Oct 13, 2015 1:57:07 GMT -5
Ok, I may get insulting here, but this thread warrants it. This idea is the polar opposite of smart. Looks like there is carpet in there, so the amp, specially one of this nature should not be directly on it, in any orientation. The indicator lights orientation, yeah the orientation options... Are for aesthetics, that's looks btw, eye candy. Yes they function a metering purpose, but they are eye candy. They in no way are meant to make you think that the amp should be placed in vertical orientation, that's up and down btw. If I am coming off as being sarcastic, then good..that means your paying attention. And you should because I don't want you to potentially burn your house down. Considering your choice of those gargantuan speakers, you strike me as an individual who enjoys their sound, one not willing to make sacrifices to achieve what they want. Where you should make a sacrifice however, is get rid of that center stand/table/bench. I get it.. We all build our systems over time, and sometimes have artifacts left over from a previous configuration. But that thing really no longer suits your gear appropriately and the room plus those speakers isn't wide enough for it. You do have the room to place those amps in their proper orientation, but it's time for the bench to go, get some coin for it, let it go to some guy who isn't rocking monoblock space heaters and the future owner can one day make his way up to where you're at with his system. As far as those monoblocks go. They start with class A which is usually 20% efficiency..... And 80% waste in the form of heat. They're gonna be warm, it's normal. Just like your speakers are heavy... Those amps are hot.. All normal and par for the course. You know heat rises, the vents are designed as such, respect the design. I'm also betting you didn't really want to place them on their side.... But you're making the wrong compromise.... Get rid of that rack/credenza/bench... And get something proper for your setup. I don't want to read some sad unfortunate thread one day that your amps failed, or melted, or your house melted, so to be clear I am only writing an insulting post for your own good. I mean come on...you went through the trouble as your signature states to bother with dedicated 20 amp service.... So bother with setting up this final fairly inexpensive detail . If you built that sweet ride posted above.... Then you know What I am saying is sound. You wouldn't use crappy oil, or low octane gas.... Or not put in the proper cross members in your engine bay for fear of the car twisting or flexing itself for fear of damage or power loss... Why, cause what I see in that car is a no compromise kinda guy. Nice build btw. This public service announcement has now concluded
|
|
|
|
Post by hesster on Oct 15, 2015 7:46:07 GMT -5
Again, good input here and I am not insulted in any way. This is the purpose of a forum - to share thoughts, comments, and idea's. But a couple of things are not addressed yet?
Emotiva states "Meter reading can be oriented for Left Reading, Right Reading, or VERTICAL". Of course one could imply that vertical is up and down and to achieve this one would have to place them on their sides as I have so far. Not that this is the best or correct at all for conventional cooling as heat has to exit sideways. Why would Emotive even state this as an option?
And - "Channel Status LEDS indicate High Temperature and Fault Conditions." So I assume these are protected from a over temp condition. Anyone ever get a over temp fault? I bet these need to get REALLY hot to get this fault. I don't think I have ever come close, even when using them for extended time periods and cranking the ever lovin' snot out of them.
And - nothing in the Manual directly states NOT to place them on their sides, just to ensure "Proper Ventilation". There is no vents to worry about on the bottom or top when mounted vertically. I think Emotiva is just stating to install them so they are ventilated properly as stated below in the Manual.
"Do not install the XPR-1 near or above any heat sources such as radiators, heating vents, or other apparatus that produces heat. Do not block any ventilation openings or heat sinks. Avoid installing the unit directly above other heat-producing equipment unless sufficient ventilation or forced-air cooling is provided. Do not install the XPR-1 in locations without proper ventilation. The XPR-1 should not be operated on a bed, sofa, rug, or similar surface that may block vents. The unit should not be installed in an enclosed location such as a bookcase, cabinet, or closed equipment rack unless sufficient forced-air ventilation is provided. "
So - I temporally installed a small fan that I set on low behind one speaker to blow some air on a amp to see the result, and yes, it very quickly cooled it down so it was cool to the touch - barely warm. Makes me think given all of this that mounting a dual fan unit to the normal top of the amps to pull air out would achieve the same result (like one's from AC Infinity or Cool Components). Gonna find out.
|
|
|
|
Post by dudeisms7 on Oct 16, 2015 0:11:20 GMT -5
Again, good input here and I am not insulted in any way. This is the purpose of a forum - to share thoughts, comments, and idea's. But a couple of things are not addressed yet? Emotiva states "Meter reading can be oriented for Left Reading, Right Reading, or VERTICAL". Of course one could imply that vertical is up and down and to achieve this one would have to place them on their sides as I have so far. Not that this is the best or correct at all for conventional cooling as heat has to exit sideways. Why would Emotive even state this as an option? And - "Channel Status LEDS indicate High Temperature and Fault Conditions." So I assume these are protected from a over temp condition. Anyone ever get a over temp fault? I bet these need to get REALLY hot to get this fault. I don't think I have ever come close, even when using them for extended time periods and cranking the ever lovin' snot out of them. And - nothing in the Manual directly states NOT to place them on their sides, just to ensure "Proper Ventilation". There is no vents to worry about on the bottom or top when mounted vertically. I think Emotiva is just stating to install them so they are ventilated properly as stated below in the Manual. "Do not install the XPR-1 near or above any heat sources such as radiators, heating vents, or other apparatus that produces heat. Do not block any ventilation openings or heat sinks. Avoid installing the unit directly above other heat-producing equipment unless sufficient ventilation or forced-air cooling is provided. Do not install the XPR-1 in locations without proper ventilation. The XPR-1 should not be operated on a bed, sofa, rug, or similar surface that may block vents. The unit should not be installed in an enclosed location such as a bookcase, cabinet, or closed equipment rack unless sufficient forced-air ventilation is provided. " So - I temporally installed a small fan that I set on low behind one speaker to blow some air on a amp to see the result, and yes, it very quickly cooled it down so it was cool to the touch - barely warm. Makes me think given all of this that mounting a dual fan unit to the normal top of the amps to pull air out would achieve the same result (like one's from AC Infinity or Cool Components). Gonna find out. "7. Orientation Button (Meter Display) Press to switch between different LED Bargraph Meter orientations (vertical, left-to-right, right-to-left). You can create an attractive symmetrical display for a pair of XPR-1s by setting the display on the left one to right-to-left and the display on the right one to left-to-right." I get it, you're super determined.... But they just mean the meters shoot up or L to R, or R to L. Go look on the product page, check out the photos of the unit with the lid off, by setting it on its side you're effectively circumventing the venting by not letting the heat rise and escape out the top. And further look at that picture, on its side... You're trapping heat (if on its side ) within the heat sinks and the sides of the amp, and sides of the internals. Ultimately subjecting the components to unnecessary heat. If this was not the Big Guy amp, perhaps it would be less of a big deal in the long run. If you must, then use forced air, which would be more than just blowing at it. Yes supposedly it is protected " Protection: The XPR-1 is protected against excessive operating temperature, shorted speaker connections, ground faults, and other common fault conditions. If a fault occurs the LED above the Standby button, and the Channel Status LED and the LED Bargraph Meter LEDs will flash red. Returning the XPR-1 to Standby or switching off the AC Power will reset the protection circuitry." I just wouldn't want to so voluntarily explore this protection, and would want the most longevity and safety out of a amp that's got King Kong caged inside |
|
|
|
Post by hesster on Oct 21, 2015 8:13:39 GMT -5
So, I installed a pair of AC Infinity Airplate-7 Dual Fans on the sides of the Amps over the central fins, with the goal of pulling out any warm air. I got these off of Amazon, and without a speed controller and temperature controller, thinking a temp controller was more for a cabinet or enclosure and a speed controller was necessary only if there was excessive fan noise. I did not want to mar the Amp covers with fasteners, so to start I simply wired them down and put a few round felt furniture pads on the back of the fans to avoid metal to metal contact of the fan's nose's to the Amp covers. Next step would be to fabricate a better looking enclosure (wood or metal) for these fans to hide the sides and wire. Also purchased a few additional Cool Components Dual Fans, and put these on top of the XPA-5. Results? The AC Infinity's are great fans, very quiet (can't hear them in this configuration), and after running for over 8 hours yesterday the Amps were barely even warm. The Cool Components fans are also nice, but these DO require a speed controller and anything over 3V can be noisy. But at 3V they do the trick and do help to pull warm air out of the XPA-5. I do not want to hear any fan noise, and learned this when I was running Behringer Amps as they make a ton of fan noise. I still power the Housewrecker Sub with a large Behringer Amp, but mounted it to the Basement Ceiling and ran the XLR cables, speaker wires, and power cord through the floor to connect to it.
All of the Fans, crossover lights, and Sub Power are connected to a pair of 20 Amp Furman Powerports on the bottom shelf, and are turned on manually for now. Can't seem to get the Emotiva Trigger box to trigger these on yet, and gave up after trying a number of wiring configurations. No big deal since using the fans and especially the Sub is optional depending on what I am listening to, and to mitigate the Wife complaining that the Bass from the Sub is rearranging anything not nailed down in the house.....
|
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Oct 21, 2015 8:29:07 GMT -5
Beautiful pitures. WHat
s the brown box wit the lights and transparent glass?
|
|
|
|
Post by teaman on Oct 21, 2015 8:31:39 GMT -5
Beautiful pitures. WHat s the brown box wit the lights and transparent glass? Looks like a crossover gar. |
|
|
|
Post by hesster on Oct 21, 2015 9:11:04 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Oct 21, 2015 9:22:55 GMT -5
Thanks teaman and hessler. It looks very nice |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Apr 29, 2016 23:11:00 GMT -5
Wonderful looking line arrays. Now, if they were active crossover'd using MiniDSP and 1 amp per 'way' or maybe a stereo or 3 channel amp per speaker? But that's nit-picking.
I'll bet with the juice properly provided for with a 20 amp circuit / XPR-1? Nice!
But for others, do NOT forget that from Plug to Speaker? You are NO MORE than 1 1/2% efficient. That means that 98 1/2% of input energy goes up as HEAT.
Even your highest efficiency big-box vented speakers are no more than 2% efficient, if that. Even the BEST 'd' amp is no more than about 82% or so efficient internally.
A pretty loud stereo with sub, running 4 watts RMS with 40 watt peaks will be simply putting MOST of the provided energy back into the room as HEAT.
'A' or 'A/B' amps and conventional power supplies? Even worse.
|
|
|
|
Post by hesster on Apr 30, 2016 5:56:30 GMT -5
6 months later and the fans work perfectly and the XPRs remain cool to the touch. I did originally bi-amp the Arrays, but no need with the XPR's power, and I can't tell the difference anyway. The crossover uses platinum caps and high end components so I think GR Research knew what they were doing.
|
|
|
|
Post by simpleman68 on Apr 30, 2016 9:29:51 GMT -5
6 months later and the fans work perfectly and the XPRs remain cool to the touch. I did originally bi-amp the Arrays, but no need with the XPR's power, and I can't tell the difference anyway. The crossover uses platinum caps and high end components so I think GR Research knew what they were doing.  I'd love to hear a pair or arrays like that in my room to audition. I have been seriously thinking about going that route from my Legacy's. Scott |
|
|
|
Post by eclypse on May 1, 2016 7:23:56 GMT -5
Another option would be to remove the glass shelves and put the amps under the shelves on the floor on large tiles. That's what I did back when before I upgraded my stand to something other then glass to support the heavy amps. Sanus makes great audio racks.
|
|
