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Post by novisnick on Jun 1, 2016 0:11:08 GMT -5
I am currently running two systems and one set of amps for the main speakers. Both sources have trigger out functions but the amps have only a single trigger port. How can I trigger the one set of amps from either system? Easily?  Any suggestions? Yes, I know,,,,,,,first world problems!  |
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Post by mshump on Jun 1, 2016 8:41:07 GMT -5
Nick,
Would the emo ET-3 trigger module work? It's only 39.99
Mark
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Post by novisnick on Jun 1, 2016 8:47:48 GMT -5
Nick, Would the emo ET-3 trigger module work? It's only 39.99 Mark It only has one input for a trigger, my needs are reversed in the wiring of the unit. Now if it worked backwards it would be perfect. Two sets of inputs and one set of outputs is what I need. |
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Post by JKCashin on Jun 1, 2016 23:31:17 GMT -5
Are you tech savvy? You could do it with an Arduino...
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Post by millst on Jun 1, 2016 23:48:47 GMT -5
He doesn't even need the Arduino. The logic is so simple, he could just tie the trigger cables directly to relays that supply 12v power to the amp trigger.
-tm
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Post by JKCashin on Jun 2, 2016 0:44:00 GMT -5
He doesn't even need the Arduino. The logic is so simple, he could just tie the trigger cables directly to relays that supply 12v power to the amp trigger. -tm Good point. Multi-in to single-out. |
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Jun 2, 2016 8:52:09 GMT -5
Forget relays...... they're expensive, and some trigger outputs won't run some relays, and you'd have to power the output..... As long as both your inputs are 12 VDC and your output is also 12 VDC (which they will be for a trigger). This circuit will make the output high when either of the two inputs goes high... which is what you want. You can use small diodes (like IN4001 - which are 50V 1A) - and the whole thing can be put in a box, or made into a cable with some heat shrink. (The diodes cost well under $1 each...) (connect all the grounds from the inputs and outputs together - which I didn't draw)  He doesn't even need the Arduino. The logic is so simple, he could just tie the trigger cables directly to relays that supply 12v power to the amp trigger. -tm |
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Post by novisnick on Jun 2, 2016 9:04:32 GMT -5
Forget relays...... they're expensive, and some trigger outputs won't run some relays, and you'd have to power the output..... As long as both your inputs are 12 VDC and your output is also 12 VDC (which they will be for a trigger). This circuit will make the output high when either of the two inputs goes high... which is what you want. You can use small diodes (like IN4001 - which are 50V 1A) - and the whole thing can be put in a box, or made into a cable with some heat shrink. (The diodes cost well under $1 each...) (connect all the grounds from the inputs and outputs together - which I didn't draw) He doesn't even need the Arduino. The logic is so simple, he could just tie the trigger cables directly to relays that supply 12v power to the amp trigger. -tm Sounds like a solution! But,,,,,,,,,  Need a little more help, I have no experience and am not electrically inclined. Ill investigate further but wont be an engineer any time soon. Please, I'm this many, I I I years old understanding how to build this component. Diagrams and instructions would be great. Thanks so much! Nick |
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Post by novisnick on Jun 2, 2016 9:09:28 GMT -5
Lets see if I get this.
A pair of small boxs and 4 diodes (like IN4001) as well as light gauged wire and 6 ports for the plugs to go into. 3 ports per amp, two in one out.
Is that what ill need?
Thanks,
Nick
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Post by millst on Jun 2, 2016 9:49:50 GMT -5
Yeah, I was thinking about that, too, but wasn't sure about OP's electronics experience. Those relay boards that people use with Arduinos and Pis can be had for less than $10 and the only tool required is a screwdriver. The Pi maxes out around 20mA so I'd be surprised if a trigger output couldn't supply enough current. -tm Forget relays...... they're expensive, and some trigger outputs won't run some relays, and you'd have to power the output..... As long as both your inputs are 12 VDC and your output is also 12 VDC (which they will be for a trigger). This circuit will make the output high when either of the two inputs goes high... which is what you want. You can use small diodes (like IN4001 - which are 50V 1A) - and the whole thing can be put in a box, or made into a cable with some heat shrink. (The diodes cost well under $1 each...) (connect all the grounds from the inputs and outputs together - which I didn't draw) He doesn't even need the Arduino. The logic is so simple, he could just tie the trigger cables directly to relays that supply 12v power to the amp trigger. -tm |
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Post by millst on Jun 2, 2016 9:57:38 GMT -5
Lets see if I get this. A pair of small boxs and 4 diodes (like IN4001) as well as light gauged wire and 6 ports for the plugs to go into. 3 ports per amp, two in one out. Is that what ill need? Thanks, Nick You need 2 diodes (for the positive wires), not 4. Like Keith indicated, you can just sacrifice two trigger wires and add heatshrink for protection. If you want a box that you plug trigger cables into, then you also need three mono 3.5mm headphone jacks, the box, and some wire. -tm |
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Post by novisnick on Jun 2, 2016 10:41:05 GMT -5
Ok, I only need to wire one amp because that one will trigger the second. Got it.
Im wiring a trigger from two different pre amps into a common wire using two diodes, right? And then the twisting wires from the diodes together and run it to the first amp.
Do I have this correct?
Thanks,
Nick
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,273
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Post by KeithL on Jun 2, 2016 11:07:06 GMT -5
The problem here is that, for someone who has built cables before, and already has several sizes of heat shrink "in stock", this is pretty much a five minute project. However, in terms of putting it together, there are a whole lot of things that have to be done in the right order, or cut to the right length, or not allowed to touch. (For example, you have to put the heat shrink on before you solder the wires, then solder the wires, then slide the shrink into place and shrink it.) This means that actually explaining how to build it in detail would take a lot longer than actually doing it. Here's a slightly more detailed diagram of what it would look like if you built it into a box. (Making it out of cut up wires and heat shrink would be easier - but wouldn't look as nice.) The next level of detail would be an actual picture of one (and nobody's got one so far).  Lets see if I get this. A pair of small boxs and 4 diodes (like IN4001) as well as light gauged wire and 6 ports for the plugs to go into. 3 ports per amp, two in one out. Is that what ill need? Thanks, Nick You need 2 diodes (for the positive wires), not 4. Like Keith indicated, you can just sacrifice two trigger wires and add heatshrink for protection. If you want a box that you plug trigger cables into, then you also need three mono 3.5mm headphone jacks, the box, and some wire. -tm |
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Post by novisnick on Jun 2, 2016 11:29:58 GMT -5
My offer, PM me your expenses and PayPal info and any questions you may have, I'll forward my shipping adress?? sure would make life easier.  |
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Post by novisnick on Jun 20, 2016 1:41:28 GMT -5
KeithL , will this work? Its a stereo splitter I have. I don't want to risk a pair of XPR-1s without asking/trying. I eagerly look forward to a response. For now I have unplugged the trigger on and only have the first amp set to trigger the second. Powering up and down the amps within minutes can not be good for them, Can it, please tell me what happens to the amps if this happens. Thanks for all you do here, you defiantly educate many of us striving to learn. Sure wish I had been given a heath kit when I was young!   |
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Post by Gary Cook on Jun 20, 2016 2:09:57 GMT -5
Triggers are mono (only 2 connections) not stereo (3 connections). Not that it matters, even a mono one won't work. It needs a circuit with the 2 diodes like Keith drew. FWIW a diode is like a one way gate, it lets the electricity flow from the trigger output to the trigger input. But it stops the electricity flowing from one trigger input back to the other trigger input
I gotta say it's so much fun watching a technical guru (that's Keith) explain in words a simple circuit to a non technical person (that's Nick) 
If I wasn't half a world away I'd make one up for you Nick 
But the postage would be many times the cost of the components.
Cheers
Gary
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Post by novisnick on Jun 20, 2016 2:15:37 GMT -5
Thats what I thought, thanks Gary,
Would have been too good to be true!
I had the right idea, just the wrong gadget!
Edit,
I understand the theory, I've just never implemented any of it.
its a double switch, ive wired a house and its the same as a three way switch I'm thinking. Correct? Just on a much smaller scale, micro if you please.
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Post by qdtjni on Jun 20, 2016 4:39:52 GMT -5
Is the XMC-1 front out connected to McIntosh C220 HT Bypass?
Then if the C220 has trigger in, connect one trigger out from the XMC-1 to the trigger in on the C220
and the trigger out from the C220 to one of your XMR-1.
EDIT: Never mind the C220 does not have HT bypass not does it have trigger in.
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