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Post by ddog on Jun 23, 2017 11:13:35 GMT -5
Hey Rickie....
Its been a year now.
How are you feeling about the new tube amp? I know you were purdy excited about them when you first received them.. I was wondering how or if your impressions have changed at all?
I've got the itch to make some changes in my 2 Channel room and will..you know how it goes..lol
I'm also in the middle of updating the theater with Atmos.. man this hobby can drain a wallet.
Anyway look forward to hearing about your thoughts from this past year.
Steve
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Post by monkumonku on Jun 23, 2017 11:42:24 GMT -5
Hey Rickie.... Its been a year now. How are you feeling about the new tube amp? I know you were purdy excited about them when you first received them.. I was wondering how or if your impressions have changed at all? I've got the itch to make some changes in my 2 Channel room and will..you know how it goes..lol I'm also in the middle of updating the theater with Atmos.. man this hobby can drain a wallet. Anyway look forward to hearing about your thoughts from this past year. Steve Hi Steve, I hope all is well with you and the family! I've had the ST-120 for over a year now and have no plans of "upgrading" anything in my system because it doesn't need it. I can't believe I am so satisfied! The signal path is the source connected to a Schiit Bimby, to a Schiit Saga, to the amp and then the Ascend Sierra 2 speakers. This is the best combo I've had so far. Everything just sounds "right" and the amp has no trouble driving the speakers to volumes louder than I care to listen to, with no fatigue (and this is on the triode setting of the amp so it is 32 rather than 60 watts per channel). I'm still as enthusiastic about the amp as right after getting it. The only negative thing to say is how hot the tubes get but nothing you can do about that. I'm really happy with the amp and the whole system - it's a joy to listen. The Sierras are my favorite speakers so far and the RAAL tweeters make the difference. So when are you gonna by yours?  |
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Post by ddog on Jun 23, 2017 12:59:04 GMT -5
Man.. that's really not what my wallet wanted to hear..haha!
But I'm really glad your still in love with them. We know how you are with audio gear ..lol
I'm sure somethings going to change soon I can feel it.
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Post by monkumonku on Jun 23, 2017 13:23:59 GMT -5
Man.. that's really not what my wallet wanted to hear..haha! But I'm really glad your still in love with them. We know how you are with audio gear ..lol I'm sure somethings going to change soon I can feel it. Well I really like the amp and feel it is there to stay. It's been over a year for the amp and nearly two years for the speakers and they're still there! I think that ought to be some high praise right there!  No intention of replacing anything in the chain. For two channel it sounds great. |
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Post by ddog on Jun 23, 2017 13:51:29 GMT -5
Sounds like your really happy with the 2 Channel setup.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Sierra's also.
I was look at tube amps last year but decided to update to 4k in the theater and living room.
Now I'm looking for a new preamp with 4k and Atmos to finish off the theater.
Then I want to pull the XPA-2 out of the 2 Channel room for some tubes.
I'm still very much in love with my om-6's (cant believe I've owned them over 20 years now) so those will be staining. Love everything about them .
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Post by ddog on Jun 24, 2017 19:06:32 GMT -5
Hey Rickie... or anyone else with the Sierra 2's.. are you running a sub with these or feeling the need for one in a 2 Channel listening environment?
Thanks
Steve
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Post by monkumonku on Jun 24, 2017 20:35:02 GMT -5
Hey Rickie... or anyone else with the Sierra 2's.. are you running a sub with these or feeling the need for one in a 2 Channel listening environment? Thanks Steve I am using a sub with mine because the location of the L/R isn't the best place in the room for bass. I find that the sub adds a solidity or foundation (the cutoff is 50 hz) but the main reason for it is mainly because of the location of the mains. In one more friendly to the lower frequencies, a sub probably wouldn't be needed except for the very lowest of notes. |
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Post by ddog on Jun 26, 2017 19:17:37 GMT -5
Ok.. I saw the specs and they roll down to 40ish Hz's so I was wondering how they handled the low stuff on their own without a sub.
I have a chance to pick up a set for a very reasonable price.. but!
I just spent some of my budget on a VERY nice automated masking system for my theater!! Yay!
No more manual panels to move when watching movies with different aspect ratios.
I guess I should've probably moved this to a different thread.
Sorry.
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Post by leonski on Sept 17, 2021 0:46:30 GMT -5
This is cool thread. Cheers monkumonku !  I have to think Lonnie is going to release those 300 watt mono block tube amps some day soon. I want lots of headroom with tube amps. More so than solid state. Solid state I can get bye with 150 watts. It will all be clean. I do not want my tube amps to get near distortion. Tubes gear can sound very good clean. KeithL has talked about this before. If you compare the Best WITH the Best, you'll find a tube system very comparable with SS. At the best levels? I don't know you could tell the difference in a 'just play it for me' test. Speakers must be 'compatible', too... Some electrical differences make selection one of taste and playing well together. As for headroom? I'll just BET you are looking at those huge rows of PS Capacitors, right? Well I gotta tell you something. It isn't CAPACITANCE that matters but ENERGY. And i this case? Energy is very dependent on VOLTAGE. An example? 10,000mfd @65volts? About 21 Joules. For a Tube amp? 500mfd @450 volts? OVER 50 Joules. Than for a tube amp? It comes down to output tubes....like KT88 or 6550 or EL34 (original ST70 from Dynaco) AND those pesky Transformers. There is a 'school of thought' that claims that Tube Watts are 'more powerful' or whatever. To ME? A watt is a watt......1amp @1volt.....but tubes DO store a bit of energy in a smaller package..... |
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Post by leonski on Sept 19, 2021 0:53:40 GMT -5
You've got it in the right chassis hole. Good to know! Turn that three lug 90 degrees, like the pictorial, Yeah, that's what I did. It doesn't match the pic and since I don't have the TDR option it's no problem. I wonder where that terminal goes if you do have the TDR. I'd probably drill a hole where the picture shows it mounted at. Gotta improvise some times. I just got done connecting the chokes to the quad caps. The bottom terminal with all those wires on the 'D' terminal is a bit messy but it's a solid connection. My soldering skills are a bit hampered by slightly shaky (old) arms. And my eyes aren't what they used to be. My bench mag/light combo helps but gets in the way at times. I should have got one of those brackets that hold a magnifying glass. The mag/light combo is kind of big for small work! I'm making progress. I hope to have it done tomorrow. I have nothing on the calender that I have to do! One day off! No golf - no family (dis)function! Nothing! I'll keep you guys up to date. Thanks for the pointers! First? I KNOW I'm a couple years behind the curve. If /When I get the kit? i'll assemble the driver board using a 3rd hand rig. I may go to a lamp store and get a magnifier / lamp (circular LED, these days) so I have plenty of light. I need to send off for a differnt tip for my Hakko station, too. In the T18 series, you can get a couple 'bent' tips. Look like just the ticket for board work so I an get the tip down and pencil at an angle......So I can see and get in with the solder..... I want a good pair of REAL needle nose and I need to find my jewelers looping pliers. One round jaw, one square......so I can make wire loops for hookup. Some flush cuts wouldn't hurt, either. And I saw it once and haven't seen it again but a NOTE about heat shrink on a few special wires. Maybe the high voltage stuff? I've seen lots of assembly photos. Some REAL nice looking work, too. Only one 'jumble' so far, but I guess it worked! |
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Post by DavidR on Sept 19, 2021 8:54:05 GMT -5
First? I KNOW I'm a couple years behind .................................................... I want a good pair of REAL needle nose and I need to find my jewelers looping pliers. One round jaw, one square......so I can make wire loops for hookup. ............... Only one 'jumble' so far, but I guess it worked! .................................................... My eye sight sucks so I bought one of these on eBay. Works great.
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Post by leonski on Sept 19, 2021 14:37:12 GMT -5
Do you own any Flush Cuts? Good for trimming leads after solder.......
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Post by DavidR on Sept 19, 2021 17:18:54 GMT -5
Do you own any Flush Cuts? Good for trimming leads after solder....... Yes, 2 pair. One for rough stuff and one for simple cuts.
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Post by leonski on Sept 19, 2021 18:36:40 GMT -5
Do you own any Flush Cuts? Good for trimming leads after solder....... Yes, 2 pair. One for rough stuff and one for simple cuts.
How do I NOT have these in my kit already? |
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Post by audiobill on Sept 20, 2021 6:24:13 GMT -5
Leonski, I'd move fast if you want one of these nice kits - Bob Latino has announced his retirement later this year....
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Post by leonski on Sept 20, 2021 13:50:23 GMT -5
Leonski, I'd move fast if you want one of these nice kits - Bob Latino has announced his retirement later this year.... I hope Bob does a 'Build Out' and has 50 to 100 kits 'on hand' and makes it clear he will only have LIMITED time to answer questions.......Not the HUGE input of his time I sense now.... |
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Post by audiobill on Sept 20, 2021 14:00:42 GMT -5
Roy Mottram will be providing these kits going forward. Buy from Bob now.
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Post by leonski on Oct 16, 2021 17:41:29 GMT -5
Audio.....please check your PM file. I'm sending you a qwestion and do NOT want to excessively derail this thread......
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Post by leonski on Oct 20, 2021 18:11:47 GMT -5
I just had an idea.
Tube HOURS are sort of important. Outputs are apparently the 'quickest' to go.....
To that end? Buy an inexpensive HOUR METER and find a place on OR in the amp to mount.
Only problem I can imagine is that of electrical NOISE put back on the circuit effecting the amp badly.
I'd schedule BIAS CHECKS based on hours. Start out @100 hour intervals and go UP as knowledge is gained.
This would entail SOME record keeping, too......You might be able to 'spot' an impeding tube failure when the bias
Changes a lot between checks. I'd expect VERY stable bias. Might even record LINE VOLTAGE at the same
time. Is there a relationship ?
Such a meter? 20$ would be common but cheaper is available while who knows what the 'max' would be?
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Post by ttocs on Oct 20, 2021 18:39:33 GMT -5
Here's an interesting way of keeping track of hours. For every hour of usage put money into a jar. Figure out what you want to pay, 25 cents per hour? 2,000 hours per year would be $500. Decide how much you want to end up with in a year and do the math. If you end up "rounding" up or down, sometimes you might overpay or underpay, but it'll be close enough over time. It all will average out, just like making a telescope mirror.
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No intention of replacing anything in the chain. For two channel it sounds great. 
