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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 17, 2016 11:24:12 GMT -5
Hi,
I'm trying to better understand the specs of the T1 speakers. Online it reads that the towers are rated at 4 Ohms. It also states that it has dual speaker terminals for bi-amping or bi-wiring.
I just want to run a single speaker cable to each tower and get 8 Ohm from the speaker, since that is what my current AVR can handle. Can this be done with the T1s? If so, how?
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Post by garbulky on Nov 17, 2016 11:43:09 GMT -5
Hi,
I'm trying to better understand the specs of the T1 speakers. Online it reads that the towers are rated at 4 Ohms. It also states that it has dual speaker terminals for bi-amping or bi-wiring.
I just want to run a single speaker cable to each tower and get 8 Ohm from the speaker, since that is what my current AVR can handle. Can this be done with the T1s? If so, how?
Thank you Short answer: You can run a single speaker cable. But no. Biwire or single wire won't give you eight ohms. It will be four ohms. It would be advisable to get a power amplifier that can handle four ohms. Long answer: If you have two stereo power amps, you can hook them up to the bi amp terminals (one red white terminal per power amp). It increase the impedance the speaker sees - however it's not guaranteed to increase it to 8 ohms to each power amp. Your AVR would see the 4 ohm nominal impedance. The only way to raise it is to literally disconnect one set of terminals. But then you really wouldn't get a very good sound quality out of the things because the woofers won't be working. |
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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 17, 2016 12:14:45 GMT -5
garbulky,
Thank you for the quick reply.
So basically each speaker terminal is 8 Ohms?
I have a Marantz 5005 which I need to double check, but I believe it supports bi-amping. I know it supports down to 6 Ohms, but not 4.
If so, then the T1's would work with my AVR?
Thank you.
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Post by creimes on Nov 17, 2016 12:22:11 GMT -5
Could you swing purchasing an amp as well, the Basx A-300 for $339 would go nice with the towers, you would just need two RCA cables to go from the FL and FR pre-out on the Marantz to the A-300 and you would be set, I say this as I truly believe in better amplification for the speakers, especially the fronts and this is from many experiences in doing so myself, I have never looked back going away from the internal amps of a receiver.
Chad
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Post by garbulky on Nov 17, 2016 12:30:58 GMT -5
garbulky, Thank you for the quick reply. So basically each speaker terminal is 8 Ohms? I have a Marantz 5005 which I need to double check, but I believe it supports bi-amping. I know it supports down to 6 Ohms, but not 4. If so, then the T1's would work with my AVR? Thank you. Looks like your setup does have bi amp connections. This may work. However, it still may be too much for the amp. So it's a toss up. I would reccomend a power amp designed for it. |
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Post by Wideawake on Nov 17, 2016 13:54:14 GMT -5
So basically each speaker terminal is 8 Ohms? No. Each set of terminals will present a 4 Ohm load to the amplifier. I suggest that you forget about bi-wiring. For your application it will do nothing to improve your sound quality, nor will it change the speaker's impedance. I have a Marantz 5005 which I need to double check, but I believe it supports bi-amping. I know it supports down to 6 Ohms, but not 4. If so, then the T1's would work with my AVR? I looked up the info on your Marantz PM5005 Stereo Integrated Amplifier (this is what you have?) and the specs state: "Rated at 40 watts per channel into 8 ohms and 55 watts per channel into 4 ohms, the PM5005 features A and B speaker outputs, for two sets of stereo speakers, or for bi-wiring with compatible stereo speakers." - us.marantz.com/us/products/pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=HiFiComponents&ProductId=PM5005Given the above it looks like you should be able to hook up the T1s to your amp. If you do, I would ensure that the amp is in a well ventilated area since it might get hot. Also, I would not crank up the volume too much. My thoughts are that your 5005 is under powered at 40 watts to properly drive the T1s to a satisfactory volume, especially for HT use. If you only listen to music at low volumes on this system then you should be good to go. For anything more than that you should consider an external amp. I did not find any information on the 5005 that suggests that it has pre-processor outputs (you may want to verify that) so that means that you will also need to upgrade to an AVR (or a processor) that does have such outputs so that you can hook up an external amplifier to drive the T1s. |
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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 17, 2016 13:55:13 GMT -5
garbulky,
Are you saying that I need an amp that can handle 4 Ohms? An amp with more power than my AVR? Or Both?
Thank you.
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Post by creimes on Nov 17, 2016 14:00:42 GMT -5
I looked up the info on your Marantz PM5005 Stereo Integrated Amplifier (this is what you have?) and the specs state: "Rated at 40 watts per channel into 8 ohms and 55 watts per channel into 4 ohms, the PM5005 features A and B speaker outputs, for two sets of stereo speakers, or for bi-wiring with compatible stereo speakers." - us.marantz.com/us/products/pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=HiFiComponents&ProductId=PM5005Given the above it looks like you should be able to hook up the T1s to your amp. If you do, I would ensure that the amp is in a well ventilated area since it might get hot. Also, I would not crank up the volume too much. My thoughts are that your 5005 is under powered at 40 watts to properly drive the T1s to a satisfactory volume, especially for HT use. If you only listen to music at low volumes on this system then you should be good to go. For anything more than that you should consider an external amp. I did not find any information on the 5005 that suggests that it has pre-processor outputs (you may want to verify that) so that means that you will also need to upgrade to an AVR (or a processor) that does have such outputs so that you can hook up an external amplifier to drive the T1s. It has pre-outs in the middle bottom  |
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Post by creimes on Nov 17, 2016 14:08:47 GMT -5
garbulky,
Are you saying that I need an amp that can handle 4 Ohms? An amp with more power than my AVR? Or Both?
Thank you.
I can comment saying Both  |
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Post by Wideawake on Nov 17, 2016 14:12:01 GMT -5
creimes - Thanks. Apparently I was looking at a different 5005. I'm not familiar with the Marantz line.  huskydog55 - Looks like your AVR has 100W available (not sure at what impedance) and, as creimes pointed out, it also has pre-outs. So, all you need to do is to add an external amp. I could not easily find the min speaker impedance that the AVR will handle so your manual is the best source for that information. If, as you've stated, it can only handle 6 Ohms, I would not risk hooking up the T1s to your AVR. Do you currently own the T1s or are you on a fact finding mission before you press the buy button? Some additional information about your setup and intended use will help us to direct you better.
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Post by garbulky on Nov 17, 2016 15:13:47 GMT -5
garbulky,
Are you saying that I need an amp that can handle 4 Ohms? An amp with more power than my AVR? Or Both?
Thank you.
More like both. The TA-100 is probably at the edge of what you need. |
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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 17, 2016 17:16:53 GMT -5
Wideawake
I am on a fact finding mission. I currently have a secondary (family room) 5.1 setup consisting of Klipsch Reference bookshelves for the L/R, a center, smaller bookshelves for the rear and a Klipsch RW-12d sub which are powered by a Marantz SR5005. I'm looking to sell the Klipsch and replace them with something new.
My primary setup (man cave) consists of GoldenEars and a Hsu sub along with a different Marantz SR5005 AVR. I like the sound of the ribbon tweeters. I saved enough pennies to get a 7.0 set of GE's but don't want to drop that much coin on this secondary setup. Base on what I've read so far, the Airmotiv's are getting great reviews. Plus they are a fraction of the cost of GE's.
I hear what everyone is saying about getting an amp for the T1s, but honestly at some point I want to get the XPA Gen 3 to power the man cave. So I'd rather not have to replace my AVR nor add an amp to my family room setup at this time.
My other option is to get a pair of Airmotiv B1 for the front, the C1 and a pair E1s for the rear. But then I'll still have the same issue with the C1 running at 4 ohms.
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Post by Wideawake on Nov 17, 2016 18:05:48 GMT -5
Wideawake
I am on a fact finding mission. I currently have a secondary (family room) 5.1 setup consisting of Klipsch Reference bookshelves for the L/R, a center, smaller bookshelves for the rear and a Klipsch RW-12d sub which are powered by a Marantz SR5005. I'm looking to sell the Klipsch and replace them with something new.
My primary setup (man cave) consists of GoldenEars and a Hsu sub along with a different Marantz SR5005 AVR. I like the sound of the ribbon tweeters. I saved enough pennies to get a 7.0 set of GE's but don't want to drop that much coin on this secondary setup. Base on what I've read so far, the Airmotiv's are getting great reviews. Plus they are a fraction of the cost of GE's.
I hear what everyone is saying about getting an amp for the T1s, but honestly at some point I want to get the XPA Gen 3 to power the man cave. So I'd rather not have to replace my AVR nor add an amp to my family room setup at this time.
My other option is to get a pair of Airmotiv B1 for the front, the C1 and a pair E1s for the rear. But then I'll still have the same issue with the C1 running at 4 ohms.
I see. In that case, I suggest that you consider B1s for L/C/R and E1s for the rears. The B1 is about 2" taller than the C1. If you can manage that height then you're good to go. If not, you can lay the center B1 on its side and in that case it will be about 1.5" shorter than the C1. Alternatively, you can use only your L/R channels without a center channel and set your AVR to phantom center. Lots of options here. Also, I don't know if you've noticed but there is currently a sale on Emotiva equipment and you can pick up a 7 channel XPR-3 for about $1600! So, perhaps you want to upgrade your man cave now with the XPR-3 and look to upgrading your family room at a later date with the B1s as I've suggested above. |
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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 18, 2016 9:11:07 GMT -5
Wideawake,
I received the email for that sale last night. That brings up another fact finding mission I have on the amps. But I'll post that in the amp forum.
Thank you for your help!
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Post by pedrocols on Nov 18, 2016 9:54:09 GMT -5
Is there a reason as to why do all Emotiva speakers,present and past, are all 4 ohms other than the obvious?
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Post by garbulky on Nov 18, 2016 10:08:32 GMT -5
Is there a reason as to why do all Emotiva speakers,present and past, are all 4 ohms other than the obvious? Because their amps are 4 ohms? Yo ho! Actually most speakers I've looked at with the exception of a few have been 4 ohm units. Some may be 6 ohm but I haven't seen a lot of 8 ohm units. I would be curious to the answer to your question as to why... |
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Post by pedrocols on Nov 18, 2016 10:28:48 GMT -5
Is there a reason as to why do all Emotiva speakers,present and past, are all 4 ohms other than the obvious? Because their amps are 4 ohms? Yo ho! Actually most speakers I've looked at with the exception of a few have been 4 ohm units. Some may be 6 ohm but I haven't seen a lot of 8 ohm units. I would be curious to the answer to your question as to why... You and I both are about to open a can or worns....lol |
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Post by garbulky on Nov 18, 2016 10:48:40 GMT -5
Because their amps are 4 ohms? Yo ho! Actually most speakers I've looked at with the exception of a few have been 4 ohm units. Some may be 6 ohm but I haven't seen a lot of 8 ohm units. I would be curious to the answer to your question as to why... You and I both are about to open a can or worns....lol 4 ohms do allow more headroom in 4 ohm capable amps so maybe that's something? |
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Post by yves on Nov 18, 2016 12:48:26 GMT -5
Is there a reason as to why do all Emotiva speakers,present and past, are all 4 ohms other than the obvious? The 4 ohms nominal impedance speaker rating is an indication that the designer of the speaker has at least gone through the extra effort of optimizing the parameters. But it doesn't necessarily always translate to a better quality speaker. Similarly, if a speaker is rated to 4 ohms, then, although this still generally depends, the 4 ohms rating can translate to a higher speaker sensitivity vs. if this same speaker had been rated to 8 ohms instead. But this [the 4 omhs rating in conjunction with higher sensitivity] doesn't necessarily always translate to higher efficiency. That said, due to there being affordable, excellent sounding power amps out there that can deliver both high current output and high power output at the same time (and I think we all know exactly which power amps I am referring to here, but just in case someone doesn't know it yet: it's always been the Emotiva ones) nowadays the 4 ohms speaker designs are opening new doors with regards to the dollar per dollar sonic performance of a total playback system. |
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Post by huskydog55 on Nov 18, 2016 13:53:09 GMT -5
yves,
I understand what you wrote. Maybe this is a silly question, but then why are the B1s and E1s 8 ohm? Just curious.
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