You will need a sub that has highlevel inputs and outputs so the A100 will pass the signal to the sub and then you will hook your speakers to the output on the sub. Your sub volume has to change with the main speakers so everything stays balanced. This is why the A100 is not ideal becasue the rca outputs are not connected to the volume control of the amp so when you play music the sub will just play at one level and not stay in sync with the main speakers. As mentioned , the A100 has no bass management built in so your main speakers will play full range which whythe monoprice sub was recommended since it can provide a high pass crossover for the main and pass the lower frequencies on to the sub.
Does Bic F12 qualify for this? or i will have to look for studio subs, including monoprice studio sub?
The BIC F12 will offer the speaker level inputs yes. It will not high-pass your main speakers. It's not the end of the world though, just plug the ports on the Kefs and play around with the dial on the rear of the sub starting at about 65hz.
I brought up high-pass filters because you seemed to be under the impression the other units were doing this.
If you're wanting a sub so you don't "over work" the drivers in the KEF's, what makes you think you're overworking them? If you're not driving them into distortion, then I wouldn't worry about overworking them. K.I.S.S = Keep It Stupid Simple.
Try your KEF's without a sub, if they have enough bass for you in your room (very possible, its a small room) than keep everything nice and simple and forget the sub.
Woah hold on. I don't know if this was mentioned but you can use the mini-x as a POWER AMP. So you can make your configuration work. (i.e. you don't get to use the mini-x as a volume control). That way it will scale with the subwoofer. If you get a passive preamp like the Schiit Sys or the Emotiva control freak use that to accept the lineouts of your Micca. You wil lthen use that to adjust the volume control. The outputs of the passive preamp will be connected to y adapter cables (cables that split).
You will need two of these cables - one for left, one for right. Then take the left pair output and put one into the left input of the a-100 and one in to the input of your subwoofer. Then take the right pair and and put one in to the right input of the a-100 and one in to the right input of your sub.
Then adjust your subwoofers gain to match. You can use a bass sweep to match by ear if the hand off from the sub to the speaker is smooth. Too much sub, lower the volume, too little, turn the sub volume up.
A bit complicated but as long as you don't plan to be moving the setup around, it's a set and forget it system. If you don't want to spend the money on the $50 passive preamp, if you are using a computer you can adjust the volume from it using the software volume control. However it's not ideal.
Last Edit: Dec 13, 2017 12:19:51 GMT -5 by garbulky
Transport: Sony UBP-X700 UHD-Blu ray player spdif PC using Musiland Digital Times WASAPI via BNC connection - DAC: DC-1->XLR XPA-1 , RCA->Basx A-100 CD: Denon DCD 600 PCM 61 DAC. RCA Amp: XPA-1 gen 2 using XLR connections. Speakers: Axiom Audio m80 V3, Sennheisser HD700 headphones. two pairs 12 guage each bi-wire speaker cables per monoblock Headphone amp: Basx A-100 (INCREDIBLE VALUE!!)
Yes the BIC F12 will work. It has speaker inputs and outputs.
You will run speaker wire from the A-100 to the speaker inputs on the BIC. Then Speaker wire from the output on the BIC to your speakers.
Cant this be done same on emotiva sub? There is in(LFE) and out? isnt LFE used as high pass filter or something? Sorry but need to figure this out.
No. The Emotiva subs are only line level (not speaker level) inputs. Look at a picture of the rear of the BIC. It has speaker terminals on there, two sets
What is really throwing you off here are the (2) RCA Jacks labeled Output on the A-100. These are not controlled by the volume control. They are always full on. They are meant to be run to another amp with a volume control, like another A-100. You could literally daisy chain these through your house for whole house Audio with only one source. It is not a pre-amp output it is a full level/voltage output.
The only Output on the A-100 that follows the volume control is the speaker level out. It's confusing as hell in home audio, but not for custom integrators.
Post by coolbuzz05 on Dec 13, 2017 13:09:00 GMT -5
Thank you everyone... But now i am confused as schiit... Ya schiit... Like garbulky said, i knew there was a way by using y cable but its more complicated for someone like me... Yes i want things to be simple.. Now i have to figure out which setup is convenient- 1. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, bic f12, kef q100 2. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, basx s10/s8, kef q100 with all the complications(want emotiva sub as i was impressed by its punchy bass).
Now... 3rd i just thought of and WAF will be good with this coz of best price- Micca origen+, emotiva basx s10, emotiva airmotiv 6s.... What am i missing here? garbulky
Sorry for being late- This is a desk setup 2.1 for gaming music movies 40-30-30 respectively... Is third option better?? I presently have micca origen+, amp and sub are being bought by a friend and i have 2 days for deciding. speakers will be auditioned by me in a week(kef q100/ emotiva airmotiv 6s).
Last Edit: Dec 13, 2017 13:11:15 GMT -5 by coolbuzz05
Thank you everyone... But now i am confused as schiit... Ya schiit... Like garbulky said, i knew there was a way by using y cable but its more complicated for someone like me... Yes i want things to be simple.. Now i have to figure out which setup is convenient- 1. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, bic f12, kef q100 2. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, basx s10/s8, kef q100 with all the complications(want emotiva sub as i was impressed by its punchy bass).
Now... 3rd i just thought of and WAF will be good with this coz of best price- Micca origen+, emotiva basx s10, emotiva airmotiv 6s.... What am i missing here? garbulky
Sorry for being late- This is a desk setup 2.1 for gaming music movies 40-30-30 respectively... Is third option better?? I presently have micca origen+, amp and sub are being bought by a friend and i have 2 days for deciding. speakers will be auditioned by me in a week(kef q100/ emotiva airmotiv 6s).
Garbulky's comment is pretty accurate except he didn't consider that the Origen+ already has a pre-out so it's actually simpler than he stated.
You can use a 3.5mm to RCA and then RCA to Dual RCA which feeds both the sub and the A100 with just the volume knob on the Micca. You'll have to keep the A100 at same volume at all times though.
As far as the Airmotiv 6s, well I really like the Emotiva Airmotiv speakers as well as the B1. The Airmotiv 5s is what I would say competes with the Q100 though. If you want to spend the extra money on the 6s be my guest.
Since the OP question was "using these and only these" there is only 1 answer, which involves running the KEF's full range and using the volume control on the sub to control its volume. For sure it's not "convenient" having 2 volume controls, but it will work. Within the limitations of the question it is the only answer.
If the question has now changed to "what can I do for the same $'s" then there are a multitude of answers. Have I missed the post where it sets the budget?
Cheers Gary
Last Edit: Dec 13, 2017 15:10:20 GMT -5 by Gary Cook
(Lounge) Samsung QLED HDR 55" Q95TA, Foxtel IQ3 (cable), Emotiva ERC-3, Emotiva XMC-2, Emotiva XSP-1, 2 x Emotiva XPA-1L's, Emotiva XPA-5, Ascension Summoner 863's & 843's + 263 Centre, SoundStream 17" sub, Emotiva XPA-100 sub amp, Denon DD TT, Sony BD X800 4K, Apple TV4K 120 HZ (Family) Sansum UHD 55" Q60, Foxtel IQ2 (cable), Apple TV4k, Panasonic BD60 (Home Office) MacMini, Emotive Big Ego & Airmotive 4's, Sony 12" Sub
Plug that into your Origen+ and the RCA inputs of your A100, then take the RCA Outputs of the A100 and run that into the RCA inputs of your S8/S10 Emo sub. Job done.
Plug that into your Origen+ and the RCA inputs of your A100, then take the RCA Outputs of the A100 and run that into the RCA inputs of your S8/S10 Emo sub. Job done.
Yes this would actually work. However keep in mind that he should NOT adjust the volume on the basx a-100 volume knob. That doesn't mean he can't adjust the volume. He just has to do it at the Origen+ - however that works.
Transport: Sony UBP-X700 UHD-Blu ray player spdif PC using Musiland Digital Times WASAPI via BNC connection - DAC: DC-1->XLR XPA-1 , RCA->Basx A-100 CD: Denon DCD 600 PCM 61 DAC. RCA Amp: XPA-1 gen 2 using XLR connections. Speakers: Axiom Audio m80 V3, Sennheisser HD700 headphones. two pairs 12 guage each bi-wire speaker cables per monoblock Headphone amp: Basx A-100 (INCREDIBLE VALUE!!)
Since the OP question was "using these and only these" there is only 1 answer, which involves running the KEF's full range and using the volume control on the sub to control its volume. For sure it's not "convenient" having 2 volume controls, but it will work. Within the limitations of the question it is the only answer.
If the question has now changed to "what can I do for the same $'s" then there are a multitude of answers. Have I missed the post where it sets the budget?
Post by coolbuzz05 on Dec 13, 2017 21:08:39 GMT -5
If the actual setup works than its just great... But i am tempted to ask this? In INR 75k, what can i get which is best for gaming music movie? Only 2.1 setup for desk, room size 13x13 and i already have origen+. Suggest speakers, subs, amps? i will give my best to audition as much as possible. Please share your thoughts or should i create a separate post on this topic? Also anyone has idea on Emotiva stealth 8 pricing in India?
Last Edit: Dec 13, 2017 21:33:20 GMT -5 by coolbuzz05
Thank you everyone... But now i am confused as schiit... Ya schiit... Like garbulky said, i knew there was a way by using y cable but its more complicated for someone like me... Yes i want things to be simple.. Now i have to figure out which setup is convenient- 1. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, bic f12, kef q100 2. Micca origen+, emotiva a100, basx s10/s8, kef q100 with all the complications(want emotiva sub as i was impressed by its punchy bass).
Now... 3rd i just thought of and WAF will be good with this coz of best price- Micca origen+, emotiva basx s10, emotiva airmotiv 6s.... What am i missing here? garbulky
Sorry for being late- This is a desk setup 2.1 for gaming music movies 40-30-30 respectively... Is third option better?? I presently have micca origen+, amp and sub are being bought by a friend and i have 2 days for deciding. speakers will be auditioned by me in a week(kef q100/ emotiva airmotiv 6s).
Garbulky's comment is pretty accurate except he didn't consider that the Origen+ already has a pre-out so it's actually simpler than he stated.
You can use a 3.5mm to RCA and then RCA to Dual RCA which feeds both the sub and the A100 with just the volume knob on the Micca. You'll have to keep the A100 at same volume at all times though.
As far as the Airmotiv 6s, well I really like the Emotiva Airmotiv speakers as well as the B1. The Airmotiv 5s is what I would say competes with the Q100 though. If you want to spend the extra money on the 6s be my guest.
If i fit in 6s in my budget, does it outperform q100s? are studio monitor as good as hifi bookshelf, purpose is gaming music movies, 2.1 desk setup
Plug that into your Origen+ and the RCA inputs of your A100, then take the RCA Outputs of the A100 and run that into the RCA inputs of your S8/S10 Emo sub. Job done.
Garbulky's comment is pretty accurate except he didn't consider that the Origen+ already has a pre-out so it's actually simpler than he stated.
You can use a 3.5mm to RCA and then RCA to Dual RCA which feeds both the sub and the A100 with just the volume knob on the Micca. You'll have to keep the A100 at same volume at all times though.
As far as the Airmotiv 6s, well I really like the Emotiva Airmotiv speakers as well as the B1. The Airmotiv 5s is what I would say competes with the Q100 though. If you want to spend the extra money on the 6s be my guest.
If i fit in 6s in my budget, does it outperform q100s? are studio monitor as good as hifi bookshelf, purpose is gaming music movies, 2.1 desk setup
Most studio monitors are high fidelity. The 6s will offer more overhead, deeper bass extension, and a flatter response overall.
By definition "the ideal amplifier is a straight wire with gain".... and, among other things, a straight wire with gain will have a perfectly flat frequency response. Having a frequency response that is other than flat means that you are ALTERING the sound rather than reproducing it accurately - it really IS that simple. (of course, there are OTHER WAYS in which you can alter the sound, for example, by adding noise or distortion.....)
Whether an amplifier with a flat frequency response sounds "engaging" will depend on whether the recording you're playing is recorded to sound that way or not. (And, of course, whether the other components in your system, also have a flat frequency response.)
It's a little more complicated when you're talking about speakers and rooms because energy levels often vary with time. The sound coming straight from the speaker to your ear may have a certain frequency response.... While the sound that reaches you after bouncing around the room may have a quite different one. (Whether your brain can separate them depends on a lot of things - including the time delay between them - all of which tend to vary.)
For example, let's imagine you have very bright speakers, but a very dull room - with heavy carpets and lots of absorbers. The sound reaching your ears first, directly from the speakers, will sound bright. However, the sound reaching your ears later, after bouncing around the room, will sound dull - because more of the high frequencies have been absorbed than of the low frequencies. If you measure that combination with a short time windows it will seem bright.... If you measure it with a long time window (sometimes referred to as "a power response") it may sound flat, or even dull.... (And what happens when you apply room correction will depend on which way the room correction chooses to measure and compensate it.)
But what about when you listen to MUSIC in that room? Well, things like cymbals, which have a "short sharp attack which you hear quickly" will sound bright, and may sound harsh..... (Actually, the initial hit on the cymbal may sound harsh, but the "ride" will seem dull, and will probably seem to die down unnaturally quickly.) But bass notes, which tend to be around for a longer time, may sound "heavy" because they tend to "build up" and don't die down very quickly..... (Remember that, if different harmonics of the same instrument die down at different rates, then the overall "sound" of that instrument will change over time.)
So, in our imaginary room, the initial hit on a cymbal may sound harsh..... but, overall, the cymbal may seem to have an unnaturally quick die down.... A guitar will probably sound pretty good..... because the initial plucks will sound right, and the short reverberation time at high frequencies will be perceived as sounding "sharp and clean". And a pipe organ will probably "lose a lot of its air" because, over the first fraction of a second each note is played, the bass notes will build up a bit, but the air noises from the pipes will not.
In technical terms, we would say that the room's T60, which is the amount of time it takes sound to die down by 60 dB at each frequency, varies a lot at different frequencies... which is somewhat unnatural. (In less technical terms, we would say that you have "bright speakers in a dead room"...... and it would probably sound better if both were closer to being flat.)
Some people find some variations in frequency response to be "exciting"..... for example, a bump in the bass adds "punch" and a bump in the treble adds "sparkle". The usual problem is that, since you're adding a specific alteration, doing this usually makes some things sound better while making others sound worse. (And, of course, if your goal is "accurate reproduction" then "making things sound better" is a very subjective term... since, for certain things, "better" is NOT the same as "correct".)
Obviously, since we're talking about YOUR music, and YOUR ears, the goal is to get things so they sound good to YOU. (However, it is worth noting that many people find that systems that initially sound "exciting" or "engaging" eventually come to sound "annoying" after you listen to them for a while. )
Keith's comment above is one of the best posts ever on this subject.
The point of designing for a flat frequency response is to, as much as possible, prevent the equipment from introducing anything into the signal. It is to avoid things like gear having a "signature" or "voice," or adding a "warm" or "sterile" sound, or even being "engaging" whatever that is. Ideally, as Keith suggests, electronic equipment should have no "sound." This is so the source material can be reproduced like it is intended. It's the loudspeakers, the room and the user's perception that introduces the most "color" to any system. That is, if the system is well designed.
U2 is the world's worst rhythm section backing up a cabaret singer and a one-trick pony -- Heny Rollins