cheeze
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3 
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Post by cheeze on Feb 8, 2018 6:45:31 GMT -5
Hey guys. I plan to purchase a secondary amp for my Marantz 6012 to drive my Bowers 683 S2 towers and Bowers Htm61 S2 center (89db , 20-200watts). I read the specs on both amps and looks like the 5175 would push around 150wpc with 3 channels driven while the XPA3 would be 275 all channels. I know the 400 bucks difference wouldn't break the bank but that's a lot of money for me and I'm just trying to find out if it's gonna really sound better and be worth the extra money. This will be my first 2nd amp and just trying to understand the difference between the 2 amps and if I really need the extra power.
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Post by nickwin on Feb 8, 2018 9:17:21 GMT -5
If you are talking about the xpa3 gen 3, these are very different designs. The 5175 is “old school” Class AB with a linear power supply. They are tried and tested. The gen 3 xpa’s use a switching power supply which has some advantages, particularly weight, but the jurry is still out on these in terms of sq and reliability.
Have you considered a used xpa3 gen 2?
How big is your room? What are your listening habits? Your speakers are quite efficient, the 5175 might be all
you need. That said extra headroom is always a good thing.
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Post by creimes on Feb 8, 2018 10:18:51 GMT -5
Hey guys. I plan to purchase a secondary amp for my Marantz 6012 to drive my Bowers 683 S2 towers and Bowers Htm61 S2 center (89db , 20-200watts). I read the specs on both amps and looks like the 5175 would push around 150wpc with 3 channels driven while the XPA3 would be 275 all channels. I know the 400 bucks difference wouldn't break the bank but that's a lot of money for me and I'm just trying to find out if it's gonna really sound better and be worth the extra money. This will be my first 2nd amp and just trying to understand the difference between the 2 amps and if I really need the extra power. Welcome Cheeze, For a first amp have you thought about the used route, there is a XPA-5 Gen 2 on the lounge here for $800 +Shipping, amazing amps and save yourself some moolah, no affiliation to the seller but he has sold items here recently and the XPA-5 Gen 2 is a great amp, and it still has warranty left as well. emotivalounge.proboards.com/thread/51952/xpa5-gen2-warrantyChad |
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Post by socketman on Feb 8, 2018 11:14:34 GMT -5
I have the XPA 5 gen 2 and its a great sounding amp and you really cant go wrong getting it used, that is a great price. I sold a 3 channel gen1 for 750 plus shipping. I would say the 5125 is more than adequate and will be a huge upgrade over the internal amp and will leave some power on the table for your reciever to drive the surrounds. Emotiva has something for every budget, dont get too hung up with running with the big dogs , a guy can only eat so much KD  |
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Post by codyjenkins on Feb 8, 2018 19:49:20 GMT -5
Very happy with the XPA3 Gen 3 powering a very similar setup.
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cheeze
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3
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Post by cheeze on Feb 9, 2018 1:12:07 GMT -5
I have the XPA 5 gen 2 and its a great sounding amp and you really cant go wrong getting it used, that is a great price. I sold a 3 channel gen1 for 750 plus shipping. I would say the 5125 is more than adequate and will be a huge upgrade over the internal amp and will leave some power on the table for your reciever to drive the surrounds. Emotiva has something for every budget, dont get too hung up with running with the big dogs , a guy can only eat so much KD Hahaha! Well I don't wanna spend the money then regret not running with the big dogs! I'm one of those people that have to buy new are u guys saying the gen 2 is better than 3? |
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Post by creimes on Feb 9, 2018 1:16:25 GMT -5
I have the XPA 5 gen 2 and its a great sounding amp and you really cant go wrong getting it used, that is a great price. I sold a 3 channel gen1 for 750 plus shipping. I would say the 5125 is more than adequate and will be a huge upgrade over the internal amp and will leave some power on the table for your reciever to drive the surrounds. Emotiva has something for every budget, dont get too hung up with running with the big dogs , a guy can only eat so much KD Hahaha! Well I don't wanna spend the money then regret not running with the big dogs! I'm one of those people that have to buy new are u guys saying the gen 2 is better than 3? I have owned both Gen1 and Gen 2 XPA amps but not Gen 3, wanted to let you know there are good deals to be had on used equipment, the price of Gen 3 went up dramatically. Chad |
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cheeze
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 3
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Post by cheeze on Feb 9, 2018 1:20:23 GMT -5
If you are talking about the xpa3 gen 3, these are very different designs. The 5175 is “old school” Class AB with a linear power supply. They are tried and tested. The gen 3 xpa’s use a switching power supply which has some advantages, particularly weight, but the jurry is still out on these in terms of sq and reliability. Have you considered a used xpa3 gen 2? How big is your room? What are your listening habits? Your speakers are quite efficient, the 5175 might be all you need. That said extra headroom is always a good thing. The room isnt isn't that big, it's about 14 x 12. It's used for both home theater and music. When u say tried and tested, were they good results? I really couldn't find any reviews or opinions online for some reason. And you're saying the XPA Gen3 hasn't been around long enough to give a solid review? |
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Post by nickwin on Feb 9, 2018 8:45:46 GMT -5
If you are talking about the xpa3 gen 3, these are very different designs. The 5175 is “old school” Class AB with a linear power supply. They are tried and tested. The gen 3 xpa’s use a switching power supply which has some advantages, particularly weight, but the jurry is still out on these in terms of sq and reliability. Have you considered a used xpa3 gen 2? How big is your room? What are your listening habits? Your speakers are quite efficient, the 5175 might be all you need. That said extra headroom is always a good thing. The room isnt isn't that big, it's about 14 x 12. It's used for both home theater and music. When u say tried and tested, were they good results? I really couldn't find any reviews or opinions online for some reason. And you're saying the XPA Gen3 hasn't been around long enough to give a solid review? Considering the small room and that your speakers are fairly sensitive I would say the 5175 would be plenty of power for you. It looks like your speakers dip down to 3 ohms so don’t let there nominal 8 ohm rating fool you, these are fairly difficult loads for an amplifier. You will want an amp with a beefy power supply that handles low impedance loads well. Do you use a sub? It’s not that the 5175 has been around longer than the xpa gen 3’s it’s the type of design they are based on. The design of the 5175 is more or less the same design (topology) consumer amplifiers have been using for decades. When I say they are tried and tested I mean these designs have proven to be reliable and they are capable of sounding great. The xpa gen 3s use some newer technology that potentially offers a lot of advantages, but being new it may or may not have all the kinks worked out of it. Some reports are saying the sound quality may not be as good. Then again they might be great, with emotivas return policy it doesn’t hurt to see for your self. That said my advice would be 5175 or a used xpa3 or xpa5. These are all great amps and all will sound better than your receiver. Good luck! |
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Post by socketman on Feb 9, 2018 10:24:07 GMT -5
I have the XPA 5 gen 2 and its a great sounding amp and you really cant go wrong getting it used, that is a great price. I sold a 3 channel gen1 for 750 plus shipping. I would say the 5125 is more than adequate and will be a huge upgrade over the internal amp and will leave some power on the table for your reciever to drive the surrounds. Emotiva has something for every budget, dont get too hung up with running with the big dogs , a guy can only eat so much KD Hahaha! Well I don't wanna spend the money then regret not running with the big dogs! I'm one of those people that have to buy new are u guys saying the gen 2 is better than 3? I totally get the whole buying new thing, my mind works the same way it just cant stop saying what if. The nice thing here is that there are some Gen2's that still have warranty . The jury is still out on the whole Gen 2 vs 3 , i just bought a G3 but i doubt i will hear a difference honestly but some technophobes worry about the class H vs AB thing and SPS vs torrodial. I can tell ya it must have save Emo a bunch on shipping the G3 is 20lbs lighter than the G2. I went with 6 channels mono in the G3 for my rear surrounds and the overheads, I think it will have better resale value not that i plan selling it but thats my story and im sticking to it. |
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Post by leonski on Feb 21, 2018 20:58:34 GMT -5
ALL amps from EMO are A-A/B output.
H refers to a mode of power supply operation and is NOT a real 'class' of amplifier operation.
In the case of EMO, they went for it with a SMPS version of an 'H" PS.
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Post by mrloren on Mar 13, 2018 13:17:42 GMT -5
Hello,
Sorry to hijack this thread,
I too in the next 6 months be looking to move up from my BasX-A300 to adding more power to my front 3 L/R/C.
I am looking at the XPA3 GEN3 and 5175 or see if I can get a deal on a used XPA3 Gen2 or Parasound A31. I'm looking for 200WPC+
One question I have is will I be over taxing my 15a circuit in my family room?
AVR: Marantz SR5010
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Front mains: Polk Signature S60
Center: Polk CSi-A6
Front high and rear in-ceiling: Polk MC80
I'm about 50/50 on music movies with 70/80's rock being most of my music. I do take it up to around -10db on music
Hopefully in May I will be able to walk with the big dogs. Can an Electrican chang the breaker from 15a to 20a?
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Post by davidl81 on Mar 13, 2018 14:00:42 GMT -5
Hello, Sorry to hijack this thread, I too in the next 6 months be looking to move up from my BasX-A300 to adding more power to my front 3 L/R/C. I am looking at the XPA3 GEN3 and 5175 or see if I can get a deal on a used XPA3 Gen2 or Parasound A31. I'm looking for 200WPC+ One question I have is will I be over taxing my 15a circuit in my family room? AVR: Marantz SR5010 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5 Front mains: Polk Signature S60 Center: Polk CSi-A6 Front high and rear in-ceiling: Polk MC80 I'm about 50/50 on music movies with 70/80's rock being most of my music. I do take it up to around -10db on music Hopefully in May I will be able to walk with the big dogs. Can an Electrican chang the breaker from 15a to 20a? I think you will be okay on the 15A circuit. You don't want to just change the breaker as the wire in the home is most likely 14AWG or below and not rated for 20A. |
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Post by leonski on Mar 13, 2018 14:12:17 GMT -5
Hello, Sorry to hijack this thread, I too in the next 6 months be looking to move up from my BasX-A300 to adding more power to my front 3 L/R/C. I am looking at the XPA3 GEN3 and 5175 or see if I can get a deal on a used XPA3 Gen2 or Parasound A31. I'm looking for 200WPC+ One question I have is will I be over taxing my 15a circuit in my family room? AVR: Marantz SR5010 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5 Front mains: Polk Signature S60 Center: Polk CSi-A6 Front high and rear in-ceiling: Polk MC80 I'm about 50/50 on music movies with 70/80's rock being most of my music. I do take it up to around -10db on music Hopefully in May I will be able to walk with the big dogs. Can an Electrican chang the breaker from 15a to 20a? It MIGHT not be a bad idea to split your circuit. Amps / Sub off one circuit and the rest, like the TV and Disc Players off the other. If you live in a lightining prone area? Whole House Surge protection is not a bad idea. If you are a renter, than I don't think you can do that! What makes you think you need more power? The S60 is 90db sensitive which ain't bad. What Don't you like about the A300? |
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Post by mrloren on Mar 13, 2018 14:30:37 GMT -5
I live in SoCal so no real threat of lightning.
Splitting my circuit is not going to happen, nothing else in the room, it's all on one circuit. As for the wiring. my dinning room is 20A with 12awg going to it for 5 outlets and a ceiling light. I might have an electrical savey friend come over and just swap breakers. Family room is 12awg too.
I love my A300, great little amp. Adding it to my system opened it up with a lot more detail. I would like the open detail on the front 3 not just L/R. Taking the load off my AVR to just running surrounds is my goal.
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Post by davidl81 on Mar 13, 2018 15:16:45 GMT -5
I live in SoCal so no real threat of lightning. Splitting my circuit is not going to happen, nothing else in the room, it's all on one circuit. As for the wiring. my dinning room is 20A with 12awg going to it for 5 outlets and a ceiling light. I might have an electrical savey friend come over and just swap breakers. Family room is 12awg too. I love my A300, great little amp. Adding it to my system opened it up with a lot more detail. I would like the open detail on the front 3 not just L/R. Taking the load off my AVR to just running surrounds is my goal. Just be real careful swapping out breakers, most times there will be something on that line not rated for 20A. I personally would just roll with the 15A breaker and not risk it. Worst case is you trip the breaker, but with what you are running you won't. Right now I am running the following off of one 15A breaker. XPA-2 XPA-5 SVS PC-12 Plus (2 of them) Marantz SR7009 Sony VPL-HW40ES Projector Misc players etc. I have never tripped the breaker on my 15A circuit. I am running a 20A line to the room as I am swapping out the XPA-2 for a DR-2, but that is more just to separate my amps from my subs than anything else. |
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Post by davidl81 on Mar 13, 2018 15:25:59 GMT -5
Also remember that your amps almost never pull full watts from all channels at one time. IE a XPA-3 @ 200W per channel will almost never actually pull 600W at one time, and if it does for those few moments it is drawing that surge from the capacitors, not from the breaker itself.
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Post by garbulky on Mar 13, 2018 16:29:35 GMT -5
You'll be fine on a 15 A unless you are running a party. Most of the time listening is done at 1 watt. On peaks dynamics can take up to a few hundred watts. But they are very quick. I've listened at realistic volume levels with a FIVE WATT tube amp. That's right. I say just try your 15A. Youll probably find it's plenty.
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Post by leonski on Mar 13, 2018 17:29:13 GMT -5
Also remember that your amps almost never pull full watts from all channels at one time. IE a XPA-3 @ 200W per channel will almost never actually pull 600W at one time, and if it does for those few moments it is drawing that surge from the capacitors, not from the breaker itself. Given an amp is MAYBE 50% efficient, and it varies with power drawn from ZERO efficiency with no draw to maybe over 50% at full power. You can't simply say that a 200x3 amp will not draw 600 watts. At FULL power and than not for long, it's gonna be maybe double that. You are right, however, that is not a common situation unless you are listening to test tones and trying to break your speakers AND lease at the same time. With medium to low sensitivity speakers, played loudly in a larger room? 600 watts might be doable. For an A/B amp, I think power draw continues to rise with required output and efficiency rises at the same time. Common practice with people that test amps for a living is to use a VARIAC, which is a variable transformer so that as power demand rises, they can turn UP the line voltage to maintain test conditions. Test conditions are 'special' in the sense that nobody actually stresses an amp like they do. Stereophile runs an amp 1/3 rated power for 1 hour before doing any measurments. This is Worst Case for an A/B amp and is guaranteed to get it as warm as it can get. Some amps even say Enough! and shut off. In the extreme heat of summer, voltage at my house can drop to under 115vac while right now, I measure nearly 120. |
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Post by davidl81 on Mar 13, 2018 18:47:16 GMT -5
Also remember that your amps almost never pull full watts from all channels at one time. IE a XPA-3 @ 200W per channel will almost never actually pull 600W at one time, and if it does for those few moments it is drawing that surge from the capacitors, not from the breaker itself. Given an amp is MAYBE 50% efficient, and it varies with power drawn from ZERO efficiency with no draw to maybe over 50% at full power. You can't simply say that a 200x3 amp will not draw 600 watts. At FULL power and than not for long, it's gonna be maybe double that. You are right, however, that is not a common situation unless you are listening to test tones and trying to break your speakers AND lease at the same time. With medium to low sensitivity speakers, played loudly in a larger room? 600 watts might be doable. For an A/B amp, I think power draw continues to rise with required output and efficiency rises at the same time. Common practice with people that test amps for a living is to use a VARIAC, which is a variable transformer so that as power demand rises, they can turn UP the line voltage to maintain test conditions. Test conditions are 'special' in the sense that nobody actually stresses an amp like they do. Stereophile runs an amp 1/3 rated power for 1 hour before doing any measurments. This is Worst Case for an A/B amp and is guaranteed to get it as warm as it can get. Some amps even say Enough! and shut off. In the extreme heat of summer, voltage at my house can drop to under 115vac while right now, I measure nearly 120. You are right that under very specific circumstances the amp may pull 1000W or appx 9A on a 120 line, but those cases are rare. To blow that 15A fuse he would have to hit that peak and draw another 6A from his sub at the exact same time (and long enough for the pull to come from the wall, not just the power in the capacitors). The point being is that real life odds of that happening are slim to none. In the OPs case he was looking at swapping out a 15A breaker with a 20A, but leaving the current wiring in place. My point was just to say that the odds of tripping that 15A breaker with his current equipment is very small and not at all worth the risk of running a 20A breaker on a circuit that was designed for 15A. |
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