|
|
Post by mrloren on Mar 13, 2018 18:55:25 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies,
Our house was built in 2000 and is typical SoCal. All the wiring is the same throughout. I've replaced enough of the wall outlets to see no difference in wire. The builder used these junk $0.65 cent outlets. After one smoked I replaced all that get plugged into with Leviton commercial grade outlets. Yes I do know the difference between 12awg and 16awg. This house is weird, some circuits are 20A and others are 15A. To run a new circuit would be rather expensive, breaker box would have to be replaced.
San Diego Greed and Extortion does supply us with a good power stream, never had a problem.
I don't have parties or stuff like that any more. I do like to watch movies at around -15db and crank on some tunes around -10db. with the rare venture to -5db.
My end goal is to have my main 3 speakers on a nice big boy amp, drive the surrounds with the AVR. I will move the A300 to the bedroom HT for the S20 in there.
So I will give it a shot without changing the breaker.
|
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Mar 13, 2018 20:57:47 GMT -5
Caps only recharge when the PS voltage exceeds the voltage currently stored in the Cap. And than only for that time when the voltage is above. This will be only part of a waveform. So, when fully charged with no demand, input current is very low and depends on 1. Condition of Amp Bias and 2. Housekeeping demands Very Very few users will stress an amp to the kind of power needed that you'll draw THAT kind of current. testguy.net/content/197-Characteristics-of-Circuit-Breaker-Trip-Curves-and-CoordinationLink provides MORE Information about circuit breaker tripping than anyone actually cares about except an engineer. Bottom line is that a breaker will take a higher than rated current for an ever Decreasing amount of time, as the current Increases. Given power line voltage sag as demand increases, I'm generally in favor of a seperate circuit for low current stuff. I have my TV, DAC, PS3, Small Dish Receiver being fed from a power conditioner off the house 'common' circuit. Amps and sub are on their OWN dedicated circuit using a PSAudio Soloist Outlet. |
|
|
|
Post by davidl81 on Mar 13, 2018 21:30:59 GMT -5
Caps only recharge when the PS voltage exceeds the voltage currently stored in the Cap. And than only for that time when the voltage is above. This will be only part of a waveform. So, when fully charged with no demand, input current is very low and depends on 1. Condition of Amp Bias and 2. Housekeeping demands Very Very few users will stress an amp to the kind of power needed that you'll draw THAT kind of current. testguy.net/content/197-Characteristics-of-Circuit-Breaker-Trip-Curves-and-CoordinationLink provides MORE Information about circuit breaker tripping than anyone actually cares about except an engineer. Bottom line is that a breaker will take a higher than rated current for an ever Decreasing amount of time, as the current Increases. Given power line voltage sag as demand increases, I'm generally in favor of a seperate circuit for low current stuff. I have my TV, DAC, PS3, Small Dish Receiver being fed from a power conditioner off the house 'common' circuit. Amps and sub are on their OWN dedicated circuit using a PSAudio Soloist Outlet. Running a dedicated line for just the amps and subs is 100% the best way to go. Just for some rooms either the cost is too high to justify it if the need is not truly there. |
|
|
|
Post by novisnick on Mar 13, 2018 22:27:10 GMT -5
Caps only recharge when the PS voltage exceeds the voltage currently stored in the Cap. And than only for that time when the voltage is above. This will be only part of a waveform. So, when fully charged with no demand, input current is very low and depends on 1. Condition of Amp Bias and 2. Housekeeping demands Very Very few users will stress an amp to the kind of power needed that you'll draw THAT kind of current. testguy.net/content/197-Characteristics-of-Circuit-Breaker-Trip-Curves-and-CoordinationLink provides MORE Information about circuit breaker tripping than anyone actually cares about except an engineer. Bottom line is that a breaker will take a higher than rated current for an ever Decreasing amount of time, as the current Increases. Given power line voltage sag as demand increases, I'm generally in favor of a seperate circuit for low current stuff. I have my TV, DAC, PS3, Small Dish Receiver being fed from a power conditioner off the house 'common' circuit. Amps and sub are on their OWN dedicated circuit using a PSAudio Soloist Outlet. Running a dedicated line for just the amps and subs is 100% the best way to go. Just for some rooms either the cost is too high to justify it if the need is not truly there. I have a bedroom next to my cave that is on a separate circuit, I ran a line up from that circuit through the atticn and it feeds my amps. Bedroom has nothing taxing on it, nothing at all when we’re in the cave. |
|
Lsc
Emo VIPs 
Posts: 3,435
|
Post by Lsc on Mar 14, 2018 0:04:17 GMT -5
Hey guys. I plan to purchase a secondary amp for my Marantz 6012 to drive my Bowers 683 S2 towers and Bowers Htm61 S2 center (89db , 20-200watts). I read the specs on both amps and looks like the 5175 would push around 150wpc with 3 channels driven while the XPA3 would be 275 all channels. I know the 400 bucks difference wouldn't break the bank but that's a lot of money for me and I'm just trying to find out if it's gonna really sound better and be worth the extra money. This will be my first 2nd amp and just trying to understand the difference between the 2 amps and if I really need the extra power. I'd stick with XPA3 that has an amp module per channel. $400 is worth it. |
|
|
|
Post by mrloren on Mar 14, 2018 10:28:46 GMT -5
Hey guys. I plan to purchase a secondary amp for my Marantz 6012 to drive my Bowers 683 S2 towers and Bowers Htm61 S2 center (89db , 20-200watts). I read the specs on both amps and looks like the 5175 would push around 150wpc with 3 channels driven while the XPA3 would be 275 all channels. I know the 400 bucks difference wouldn't break the bank but that's a lot of money for me and I'm just trying to find out if it's gonna really sound better and be worth the extra money. This will be my first 2nd amp and just trying to understand the difference between the 2 amps and if I really need the extra power. I'd stick with XPA3 that has an amp module per channel. $400 is worth it. Cool, now that I've been properly informed that my 15A circuit will handle the power. I will go the same rout. XPA-3 time. Now just need the funding. |
|
Lsc
Emo VIPs
Posts: 3,435
|
Post by Lsc on Mar 14, 2018 15:36:40 GMT -5
I'd stick with XPA3 that has an amp module per channel. $400 is worth it. Cool, now that I've been properly informed that my 15A circuit will handle the power. I will go the same rout. XPA-3 time. Now just need the funding. Good job! Just an FYI, I was running my XPR-2 (600w x 2 @ 8 ohms)and XPR-5 (400w x 5 @ 8 ohms) from a single 15A circuit with no issues. My speakers are about 6 ohms. |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Mar 14, 2018 16:33:13 GMT -5
Cool, now that I've been properly informed that my 15A circuit will handle the power. I will go the same rout. XPA-3 time. Now just need the funding. Good job! Just an FYI, I was running my XPR-2 (600w x 2 @ 8 ohms)and XPR-5 (400w x 5 @ 8 ohms) from a single 15A circuit with no issues. My speakers are about 6 ohms. And you probably never turned it up past about 5 watts per channel. Which with most speakers (medium and higher sensitivity) is pretty darn loud. |
|
Lsc
Emo VIPs
Posts: 3,435
|
Post by Lsc on Mar 14, 2018 22:06:56 GMT -5
Good job! Just an FYI, I was running my XPR-2 (600w x 2 @ 8 ohms)and XPR-5 (400w x 5 @ 8 ohms) from a single 15A circuit with no issues. My speakers are about 6 ohms. And you probably never turned it up past about 5 watts per channel. Which with most speakers (medium and higher sensitivity) is pretty darn loud. When I watch movies, it usually peaks around 90-95 dBs. That’s plenty loud enough. My Revel F208s are 88dB sensitivity. I think it peaks around 50 watts or so would be my guess. |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Mar 14, 2018 23:02:03 GMT -5
Peaks of 50 per channel is QUITE loud. Tha's roughly 5 watts continuous with a 10db 'crest factor'.
Given a surround system, I wouldn't know how to do the calculation, but it all adds up.
Peaks of 90db to 95db with the kind of power I guessed, isn't out of line at all.
Just a suggestion for a laugh: Get yourself a Kill-A-Watt plugin meter. It'll take a while, but you can get reasonable power draw readings
and you'll see that you are not close to stressing the power line.
But me? I'd still have the power amps, and subs on ONE line, the rest of the gear on another. If for no other reason than 'cross contamination'.
|
|
