|
|
Post by craftsmansky on Feb 12, 2019 11:41:01 GMT -5
i am planning to purchase a PT 100 and A 300 to drive my mini mags. i see others on these board use the MMGs. is the a 300 a good choice? also, recommendations for a (budget) sub woofer to extend bass? as you can see, all of the above are entry level, cost is my limiting factor. thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Feb 12, 2019 12:15:50 GMT -5
It would work if that’s your question. There would be better pairings. Check out a used xpa2 gen 1 or 2
|
|
|
|
Post by pedrocols on Feb 12, 2019 12:29:53 GMT -5
I used to power a pair of mg12s with two UPA-1s and it was just fine.
|
|
|
|
Post by Jean Genie on Feb 12, 2019 16:37:29 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by donh50 on Feb 12, 2019 18:09:04 GMT -5
Do you actually mean the Mini Maggie system, or an MMG? www.magnepan.com/model_mini_maggie -- That does not need a lot of power and is primarily a near-field system. What is your subwoofer budget? The Dayton kits or assembled versions from Parts Express are probably the cheapest subs around... The BIC is a common step-up, then my preference is Rythmik (www.rythmikaudio.com). Since the sub is a long-term investment I tend to suggest putting a little more money there. |
|
|
|
Post by craftsmansky on Feb 12, 2019 22:04:45 GMT -5
yes, MMG. i got them in 95 when they first came out. very seldom used since i didnt have a proper amp to drive them. figured i should get something so i can still appreciate them before i lose any more hearing.
|
|
|
|
Post by donh50 on Feb 13, 2019 15:00:44 GMT -5
Depends upon how far away you sit but in general the A-300 should be fine (rated 300 W/ch into 4 ohms, though they waffle on the spec compared to the 8-ohm spec...)
One thing to note is that the PT-100 has a sub output but it is full range, as are the main outputs. You'll get best sound using a crossover to keep the LF stuff out of the panels. Most all subs these days include an internal crossover but be sure the one you select has that and not just an AVR/LFE input (Rythmik has both; I don;t own the others so cannot say). Alternatively you can pick up an external line-level crossover but that's more money unless you can roll your own.
IME/IMO/HTH/etc. - Don
|
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Feb 17, 2019 4:15:49 GMT -5
And I actually think very highly of Emotiva's subwoofers - both the budget and Airmotiv lines. If you can find one on "scratch and dent sale" (which Emotiva has a couple times per year), I'd say go with one of those!
|
|
|
|
Post by cheapthryl on Feb 17, 2019 12:32:21 GMT -5
Depends upon how far away you sit but in general the A-300 should be fine (rated 300 W/ch into 4 ohms, though they waffle on the spec compared to the 8-ohm spec...) One thing to note is that the PT-100 has a sub output but it is full range, as are the main outputs. You'll get best sound using a crossover to keep the LF stuff out of the panels. Most all subs these days include an internal crossover but be sure the one you select has that and not just an AVR/LFE input (Rythmik has both; I don;t own the others so cannot say). Alternatively you can pick up an external line-level crossover but that's more money unless you can roll your own. IME/IMO/HTH/etc. - Don I might be wrong but the sub channels out are "both" a combined summed signal as in no !longer a left and right stereo. Would be great if I am wrong. |
|
|
|
Post by cheapthryl on Feb 17, 2019 12:36:32 GMT -5
I have mg11b that sounded fine with my upa2, rpa2, Cary super amp2 (tube 40wpc). Preference was the rpa2. The tubes had more sparkle just not as loud.
|
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Feb 17, 2019 13:40:25 GMT -5
Just my Opinion:
But:
Maggies are power hungry little buggers. Even the MMG will like that 300@4 available from the A300. But maybe more, depending on usage and Room Size.
If the room is larger....than going upscale to the 1.7i level might make sense. As you go 'up' in Magnepan, you seem to get 'more' since the house sound is pretty
consistent.
Make sure you have as much as 5' BEHIND ths speaker open. Or with some kind of diffusion, like a 'Fake Ficus'. Toe in of 10degrees or so is usually good and
than you experiment with tweeters 'in' or 'out', since they occupy one side of each panel.
As for a sub? I'll go with donh50 and say they ARE a longer term investment so do NOT buy cheap. That's where I'd say to look at SVS or HSU Research.
The main takeaway is to figure out if you want SEALED or PORTED which makes a difference. Some subs come with Port Plugs and switching so you can
buy ONE sub and decide later.
And finally? In some spaces, usually smaller, some listeners report Not Needing a sub. It heppens but not to me. That last octave of fill is what really makes it
especially for some effects laden movies.
dohn50 was ALSO Spot On with recommending that IF you run a sub to also have a low-cut filter to the main speakers. This will help prevent 'muddy' bass thru
the crossover region and it also takes a LITTLE strain off the main amp. Not much, but every little bit helps. I tried full range to the speakers AND the subs cross
over and it was awful. Very poor and indistinct bass. Tubby. A preamp with sub out (I left it full range) and main speakers (I applied a high pass here) worked wonders.
And lastly? I see cheapthryl used a tube amp for a while. Good. Maggies ARE tube friendly, not being a difficult load. For MMG? You STILL need to bring on
plenty of power. And yes, again, cheapthryl is correct about >100hz or so being summed to mono. You do NOT need stereo subs unless the room so dictates.
|
|
|
|
Post by adaboy on Feb 17, 2019 14:00:56 GMT -5
Just my Opinion: But: Maggies are power hungry little buggers. Even the MMG will like that 300@4 available from the A300. But maybe more, depending on usage and Room Size. If the room is larger....than going upscale to the 1.7i level might make sense. As you go 'up' in Magnepan, you seem to get 'more' since the house sound is pretty consistent. Make sure you have as much as 5' BEHIND ths speaker open. Or with some kind of diffusion, like a 'Fake Ficus'. Toe in of 10degrees or so is usually good and than you experiment with tweeters 'in' or 'out', since they occupy one side of each panel. As for a sub? I'll go with donh50 and say they ARE a longer term investment so do NOT buy cheap. That's where I'd say to look at SVS or HSU Research. The main takeaway is to figure out if you want SEALED or PORTED which makes a difference. Some subs come with Port Plugs and switching so you can buy ONE sub and decide later. And finally? In some spaces, usually smaller, some listeners report Not Needing a sub. It heppens but not to me. That last octave of fill is what really makes it especially for some effects laden movies. dohn50 was ALSO Spot On with recommending that IF you run a sub to also have a low-cut filter to the main speakers. This will help prevent 'muddy' bass thru the crossover region and it also takes a LITTLE strain off the main amp. Not much, but every little bit helps. I tried full range to the speakers AND the subs cross over and it was awful. Very poor and indistinct bass. Tubby. A preamp with sub out (I left it full range) and main speakers (I applied a high pass here) worked wonders. And lastly? I see cheapthryl used a tube amp for a while. Good. Maggies ARE tube friendly, not being a difficult load. For MMG? You STILL need to bring on plenty of power. And yes, again, cheapthryl is correct about >100hz or so being summed to mono. You do NOT need stereo subs unless the room so dictates. Don't need 5 feet behind the MMG'S, but having absorption behind them will work wonders if you need them closer to the back wall. I use 4" GIK bass traps behind mine and they are very good sounding panels. If you want volume more power is great, I've run them on UPA-200, XPA-1OO, and XPA-2. Each has a noticeable impact on volume and dynamic levels. Side note I've even ran a pair with a Marantz NR slimline reciver. Not loud but enough. |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Feb 17, 2019 14:50:50 GMT -5
I don't want to be a jerk or pull the 'Expert' card, but I HAVE owned panels non-stop for over 30 years.
They DO benefit from lots of space behind them. The idea is that the ear can't seperate sounds too close in time from the same direction. 'Smear'.
The conventional wisdom says about 10ms or in this case, at 1 foot per ms? 10 feet. Thus the 5 foot spacing to the wall. That provides the necessary 'time' distance
for discrimination.
Will absorption help? CERTAINLY. No Question about it. But at the general expense of still LOWER sensitivity and more amp power required as well as ending up
with lower overall loudness potential.
I'd say space and diffusion would be preferable to absorption......just my OPINION.
Believe me, it HELPS unless you are very close to the speakers. I've done THAT, too, wearing them like big headphones.
Panels are diffusion-friendly, too, with some users placing QRD panels behind the speakers or even what I call 'fake ficus'.
|
|
|
|
Post by donh50 on Feb 17, 2019 15:16:39 GMT -5
Depends upon how far away you sit but in general the A-300 should be fine (rated 300 W/ch into 4 ohms, though they waffle on the spec compared to the 8-ohm spec...) One thing to note is that the PT-100 has a sub output but it is full range, as are the main outputs. You'll get best sound using a crossover to keep the LF stuff out of the panels. Most all subs these days include an internal crossover but be sure the one you select has that and not just an AVR/LFE input (Rythmik has both; I don;t own the others so cannot say). Alternatively you can pick up an external line-level crossover but that's more money unless you can roll your own. IME/IMO/HTH/etc. - Don I might be wrong but the sub channels out are "both" a combined summed signal as in no !longer a left and right stereo. Would be great if I am wrong. According the specs that is correct -- both sub outputs are summed. Sorry if my post implied otherwise. I have gone back and forth on stereo vs. mono subs over the years and ultimately decided there is just too little source material to make setting up a pair of subs in stereo worth the hassle. IME/IMO much more benefit is gained by running both (or however many you have; I am using four) in mono and adjusting their placement and/or delays to better smooth the in-room response. |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Feb 17, 2019 15:44:09 GMT -5
What provides the increased spatial 'feeling' with a sub is the OVERTONES. These are still produced by the main speakers.
So that 'whack' of bass ALSO has overtones going up in frequency from the fundamental.......
I note that if I shut the sub off during play, the image tends to simply collapse.
|
|
