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Post by widespreadpanic on Jun 24, 2019 21:34:44 GMT -5
If the speaker is rated at 100watts does that mean if you bi-amp, each of the two amps should be 50 watts or can each of the two amps be 100 watts? Thank you for your consideration.
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Post by creimes on Jun 24, 2019 21:39:19 GMT -5
Each amp could be 1000 watts if your heart desired, just gotta be smart with the volume and not use the speakers for filling the house at party levels haha
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Jun 24, 2019 21:44:31 GMT -5
A loudspeaker rating is generally the power rating of the woofer. A tweeter is generally only capable of about 10 to 20% of the rating. The crossover protects the tweeter since not much power is required to generate higher frequencies.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 24, 2019 21:48:36 GMT -5
If the speaker is rated at 100watts does that mean if you bi-amp, each of the two amps should be 50 watts or can each of the two amps be 100 watts? Thank you for your consideration. First, it’s probably not good to use Amperage in your title, while you correctly ask about Wattage in the thread. While they are intimately related, you’re not typically interested in Amperage that you deliver to your speakers, at least until you start talking about complex loads. To you question however, no, you normally need to have just as much power for both amps if you bi-amp as you did with a single amp. The exception is if you use an active crossover and minimize the work each amp has to do, in that case you can usually get by with less power for the amps that drive the higher frequency drivers. Most people however continue to use the passive crossover in the speaker, which eats a lot of power. You should also read up on horizontal and vertical bi-amping, for vertical (my fav) you definitely want two identical amps of sufficient power. Which is to say, it all depends. |
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Post by donh50 on Jun 24, 2019 22:00:59 GMT -5
Power does not add linearly when bi-amping. Two 50 W amplifiers will not in general provide the sound of a single 100 W ampliifier -- no individual driver can ever see 100 W if the most the amplifier can output is 50 W.
For active bi-amping, it is common to use a lower-power mid/tweeter amp, depending upon the crossover frequency.
For "passive" bi-amping as implemented in an AVR, without a crossover before the power amplifiers, you should use the same power amplifiers for woofer and mid/tweeter because the voltage swing required (though not the power) is the same.
HTH - Don
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Post by widespreadpanic on Jun 25, 2019 17:41:11 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that?
Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 25, 2019 17:47:18 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that? Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs While the center speaker is certainly important, I think bi-amping with a pair of DR1's might be more than is needed. That said if they're just going to sit otherwise, why not. |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Jun 25, 2019 19:01:45 GMT -5
Waste of time. Just operate it off one amplifier channel as intended.
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Post by davidl81 on Jun 25, 2019 19:28:33 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that? Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs While the center speaker is certainly important, I think bi-amping with a pair of DR1's might be more than is needed. That said if they're just going to sit otherwise, why not. Might be more than needed could be the understatement of the year, lol. Heck the DR-1 for a C1 is really overkill, but awesome. I mean it would not hurt to bi-amp it, it will not sound any different than a single DR-1. |
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Post by creimes on Jun 25, 2019 20:14:08 GMT -5
Removing the binding post jumpers should present two 8 ohm loads which the DR1 amps will give you a max of 650 watts each lol, I think one DR1 will be fine  |
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Post by 405x5 on Jun 27, 2019 8:15:43 GMT -5
If the speaker is rated at 100watts does that mean if you bi-amp, each of the two amps should be 50 watts or can each of the two amps be 100 watts? Thank you for your consideration. The starting point for amplifier power is to find out everything about the specific speakers you want to drive, whether you’re biamping or not. A loudspeaker manufacturer worth his salt will provide this information. Biamping does very little if anything in most cases and even less when outboard subwoofers are part of the mix. My own systems are rated by the manufacturer to handle 400 watts per channel, and coincidentally, that’s exactly what I’ve got. I have biamping capability, with a toggle that I bypass to avoid that connection altogether. If it were an active crossover, that would be a different story. Bill |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2019 9:43:58 GMT -5
Bi-amping is a total waste of equipment, wire & time, UNLESS using active, programmable electronic crossovers: To do so, the factory crossover is removed & drivers are directly wired to the programmable electronic crossovers. (with the amps in between)
One possible exception would be electrostatic hybrids (like Apogee)
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Post by SteveH on Jun 27, 2019 15:37:01 GMT -5
Each amp could be 1000 watts if your heart desired, just gotta be smart with the volume and not use the speakers for filling the house at party levels haha I have never bi-amped anything. But bi-amping the L/R front channels means two more channels of amplification. If you have two extra unused amplifier channels or extra amplifiers lying around, give it a try. If you plan to purchase new amplifiers for bi-amping, I would just buy two new larger beefier amplifiers and forget about the whole bi-amp process or add a powered subwoofer or two to enhance the low end. People claim to notice a difference just with bi-wiring speakers, that is an inexpensive experiment., just make sure all four speaker wire pairs are the same wire type and length. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 27, 2019 15:59:06 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that? Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs So if you drive the C1 with 1 or 2 DR1's, what are you going to drive your Maggie's with? |
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Post by SteveH on Jun 27, 2019 16:09:54 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that? Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs Turn down the Center channel volume when you are going to watch Samuel L. Jackson movies  |
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Post by creimes on Jun 27, 2019 16:22:36 GMT -5
Each amp could be 1000 watts if your heart desired, just gotta be smart with the volume and not use the speakers for filling the house at party levels haha I have never bi-amped anything. But bi-amping the L/R front channels means two more channels of amplification. If you have two extra unused amplifier channels or extra amplifiers lying around, give it a try. If you plan to purchase new amplifiers for bi-amping, I would just buy two new larger beefier amplifiers and forget about the whole bi-amp process or add a powered subwoofer or two to enhance the low end. People claim to notice a difference just with bi-wiring speakers, that is an inexpensive experiment., just make sure all four speaker wire pairs are the same wire type and length. My T1 L&R are bi-wired from the UPA-1's as I have 6 sets of Emotiva ZSS speaker cables, soon as I have the other UPA-1 for my center I will do the same, is there a difference who knows I just wire them like that as I have the cables to do so, why not ehh |
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Post by widespreadpanic on Jun 27, 2019 18:24:17 GMT -5
Ok. So I ordered 3 pairs of the airmotiv 6s powered monitors and a C1 center speaker. I have 2 DR1 amps that aren’t doing anything. The C1 is capable of being bi-amped. What you got to say about that? Also, I am looking for 2 10” subs So if you drive the C1 with 1 or 2 DR1's, what are you going to drive your Maggie's with? I have have a total of 4 DR1’s. I am using 2 of them for the Maggies |
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