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Post by remo on Jul 13, 2019 8:31:48 GMT -5
Cabinet dimensions are W 22.5" x H 22.5" x D 20.5"
Internal volume is 4.01 ft³ with bracing and speaker accounted for. I put in 4lbs of polyfill. I plan on taking some out and putting more in running sweeps to see if there is a difference in response.
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Post by remo on Jul 13, 2019 9:27:33 GMT -5
Nothing to do with the sub build but , here are some interconnects I made last year with some Canare LV-61S coaxial and Neutrik Rean NYS352G RCA Plugs. Unlike the speakon cable these all had to be soldered. I also use colored heat shrink tube to color code them per channel. No sound difference than what I already had, but I now get to say I made my own. Stereo pair  Surround set  |
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Post by LuisV on Jul 13, 2019 13:43:07 GMT -5
Very nice! These are the "feet" that I used for mine. Due to the overall weight of the speaker and sub, they don't move. I used these inbetween the sub and 893 speaker; 1 at each corner. |
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Post by novisnick on Jul 13, 2019 13:53:26 GMT -5
I use these under my subs  |
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Post by remo on Jul 13, 2019 15:43:55 GMT -5
Thank you for the suggestions, I've ordered actual spikes cheap Dayton spikes. With the weight (152 lbs) of the beast along with the pounding it gives maybe the spikes will go through the floor lol.
I'm open to constructive criticism of my build, if anyone has any.
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Post by remo on Jul 15, 2019 12:38:37 GMT -5
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Post by remo on Jul 27, 2019 13:54:41 GMT -5
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Post by badsarge on Jul 27, 2019 14:54:31 GMT -5
Happy Birthday Remo!
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Post by remo on Jul 27, 2019 18:21:57 GMT -5
Thank you
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Post by emofrmcgy on Jul 28, 2019 22:39:59 GMT -5
Decided to paint the NU-6000DSP black.    I blacked my nukes out too. Now you need to put some o-rings on the gain knobs to dim those blinding orange rings. |
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Post by remo on Jul 29, 2019 17:57:28 GMT -5
Just so happen I did the "O" rings today(snagged some from work). I also swapped out the loud fans for Noctua NF-A8 FLX fans while I had the case apart for painting. Couldn't pass them up at $20 for the pair on eBay I found last week. Without O rings. With O rings.  |
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Post by emofrmcgy on Jul 29, 2019 19:42:03 GMT -5
Awesome.
I use silenx fans in mine. I used o-rings for 4months thenhad Bill and Kevin from Gsgaudio cnc me some aluminum discs that fit perfectly behind the gain knobs. Killed the light 100%, Bill also built me some 12v triggers that got rid of the power off thump when using my power center to power them on/off.
Now you need to get the twin built and add some pa460's for midbass. Lol.. cheers bud and happy listening.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2019 13:55:07 GMT -5
Who has experience with DIY sub using passive radiator instead of port tubes?
Passive radiators are in vogue now. I like the idea, makes sense.
I have a design idea and want to investigate
Sealed boxes tend to give the best definition and resolution but at the expense of extension and ability to play loudly. Ported designs are difficult to tune properly but more loudness (db's). Tuning a passive radiator is very simple because all that is needed is an exact duplicate of the powered (driven) speaker. This simplicity greatly reduces the margin of possible error, thus easier more accurate tuning & port noise.
Is it true with smaller box volume with radiator, you get close (not equal) to the loudness as ported?
Parts Express has designs & options for radiators.
I have a Monitor Audio Silver ASW 210 sub. Dimensions H: 20.2" D: 14.8" W: 14.8"
It's 2- 10" 8 ohm woofer driver units wired in parallel, ported design. One woofer in front, one firing down. The woofers are very fast & musical.
M.A. sold a single unit ASW 110 in smaller box with same woofer, smaller amp. Dimensions H 12.6" D 12.6" W 12.6"
Have an idea to build two boxes about the size as asw110, use the woofers and install them into new boxes adding passive radiators instead of port tubes.
Has anyone had experience building with Sub passive radiators?
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Oct 7, 2019 14:03:31 GMT -5
I'm not quite sure where you got that idea about "all that's needed for a passive radiator is an exact duplicate of the powered driver".... A passive radiator is the equivalent of a port and has quite similar tuning requirements and options. The main benefit is that, by using cardboard or plastic, and even adding extra mass, you can satisfy calculations with a passive radiator that would require an absolutely huge air-filled port. (While it may work out that, under some conditions, a passive radiator similar to the driven driver can fulfill the requirements, this is usually not the case.)
Who has experience with DIY sub using passive radiator instead of port tubes? Passive radiators are in vogue now. I like the idea, makes sense. I have a design idea and want to investigate Sealed boxes tend to give the best definition and resolution but at the expense of extension and ability to play loudly. Ported designs are difficult to tune properly but more loudness (db's). Tuning a passive radiator is very simple because all that is needed is an exact duplicate of the powered (driven) speaker. This simplicity greatly reduces the margin of possible error, thus easier more accurate tuning. Is it true with smaller box volume with radiator, you get close (not equal) to the loudness as ported? Parts Express has designs & options for radiators. I have a Monitor Audio Silver ASW 210 sub. Dimensions H: 20.2" D: 14.8" W: 14.8" It's 2- 10" 8 ohm woofer driver units wired in parallel, ported design. One woofer in front, one firing down. The woofers are very fast & musical. M.A. sold a single unit ASW 110 in smaller box with same woofer, smaller amp. Dimensions H 12.6" D 12.6" W 12.6" Have an idea to build two boxes same size as asw110, use the woofers and install them into new boxes adding 2 passive radiators instead of port tubes. Has anyone had experience building with Sub passive radiators? |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2019 15:59:22 GMT -5
"A passive radiator is the equivalent of a port and has quite similar tuning requirements and options."
Of course, I wasn't even thinking about Xmax, Q requirements, etc to work properly. Just threw out the idea.
Saw a PE kit using 13x13x13 with 10" high excursion driver & "2" radiators. I missed the quantity of 2 radiators- big difference, may have rang a bell.
Without the driver specs being public I can forget that stupid idea.
Thanks for waking me up.
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Oct 7, 2019 16:24:08 GMT -5
A passive radiator has a few extra complications because, unlike the air in a port, it has both mass and a return spring (the spider and surround). (This factors into the calculations along with the specs of the powered driver.)
In general, the passive radiator ends up being either the same size, or somewhat larger, when compared to the powered driver. Also remember that the spring constant of the passive radiator is also quite important... and so cannot be ignored.
Because it often works out that the passive radiator requires more mass, many people start out with a duplicate of the powered driver, then add more mass. That can be done by several methods... the most popular being to epoxy one or more metal washers to the center cap.
If the passive radiator becomes heavy, it is often suggested to mount it facing sideways, rather than downwards, to avoid excessive sagging. Always remember, however, that the relationship between the powered driver, the passive radiator, the mass and free-air resonance of each, and the size of the cabinet, is very important. While you might produce a good result by trial and error you're a lot more likely to do so by careful calculations - or following the instructions provided by someone who's already done it. (You can find lots of instructions from various sources online.)
Kits can be a good choice.... Or you could check out the Project Gallery at Parts Express..... where they offer instructions on how to build things out of the parts they sell.
Also, to be honest, while building speakers can be fun (IF you like woodworking)... If often works out to cost less, in terms of performance per dollar, to simply purchase one.
This is especially true at the lower end of the price range.
"A passive radiator is the equivalent of a port and has quite similar tuning requirements and options." Of course, I wasn't even thinking about Xmax, Q requirements, etc to work properly. Just threw out the idea. Saw a PE kit using 13x13x13 with 10" high excursion driver & "2" radiators. I missed the quantity of 2 radiators- big difference, may have rang a bell. Without the driver specs being public & would not consider it 'high excursion driver', I can forget that stupid idea. Thanks for waking me up. |
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DYohn
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Posts: 18,485
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Post by DYohn on Oct 7, 2019 18:42:58 GMT -5
PR systems exhibit the most group delay and other artifacts of any alignment - which most people hear as 'slow" or "having overhang." In any case a properly design PR system can sound great, but it is an advanced DIY experience. Here's some resources for you: www.diysubwoofers.org/prd/diysubwoofers.org/prt/ |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2019 11:57:32 GMT -5
Looking at the PR design, the notch in the response curve is pronounced I see why the design is not for the average diyers and ported is commonly done.
Sealed speakers, we use to call them acoustic suspension, do have a smoother curve but needs more power.
Showing my ignorance of LFE, I expected sub design to be easier than full range due to narrow freq range. I now see why the quality subs cost what they do.
Unfortunately I've sold, lost most of my reference books, thank Berners-Lee for the net.
Airmotiv S12 isn't much more what a good DIY would cost & have a greater respect for the design.
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 8, 2019 13:24:57 GMT -5
Subwoofers can be more difficult to DIY than full-range speakers. Subs depend on the enclosure while full range depends on the crossover. Mostly.  |
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