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Post by Boomzilla on May 10, 2020 21:49:35 GMT -5
I think that the only way I’m EVER going to divest myself of the rat’s nest of wires behind my equipment rack is to install a pair of custom power strips mounted directly to the back of the rack. Provided I follow UL guidelines and design for maximum current draw, is there anything else to consider? I don’t want surge suppression, line-conditioning, or onboard breakers - just neat and organized power distribution.
Boom
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Post by Gary Cook on May 10, 2020 23:18:21 GMT -5
This is what I used, an 8 x double power outlet chain. They are 1 metre apart originally, but I shortened the interconnecting cables so the outlets line up with the shelves on the rack. I have another set mounted up under the long desk in the home office, printer/scanner, monitors, modem, Airmotive 4's etc. Plus I have another set in the garage for workbench lights, grinder, power tools battery charger, band saw but not the MIG welder it's on its own 20 amp circuit. Obviously they won't suit US power plugs, but you might be able to find something similar from say HomeDepot or an electrical wholesaler.  Cheers Gary |
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 9,938
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Post by KeithL on May 11, 2020 0:36:37 GMT -5
If you want to see a truly MASSIVE selection of power strips... check out Newark Electronics...
Their prices aren't especially low, and they do have a minimum, but they have a ridiculous selection...
I think that the only way I’m EVER going to divest myself of the rat’s nest of wires behind my equipment rack is to install a pair of custom power strips mounted directly to the back of the rack. Provided I follow UL guidelines and design for maximum current draw, is there anything else to consider? I don’t want surge suppression, line-conditioning, or onboard breakers - just neat and organized power distribution. Boom |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 11, 2020 1:12:56 GMT -5
Power distribution is pretty easy, I built 20A PD into my credenza, just sufficiently sized wire (12/2), a 20A UL plug, and outlets where you need them, used one USB enabled outlet to eliminate a couple wall warts. I did go back and add triggered outlets for the PA-1’s. But I’ve been thinking I could have added surge suppression, are there DIY circuits for that? Or would a whole house unit be an easier way to take care of this?
I will take this opportunity to lament that Emotiva changed their previous (and common industry / pseudo defacto) standard of right side AC input on G1/G2, to left side on the G3 amps, thwarting my right side AC distribution. My nice, short AC cables now had to be rebuilt and run across the line inputs when my XPA-7 G2 failed, and needed to be replaced by a G3. If XLR pin standards need to be retained, why not AC location?
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Post by SteveH on May 11, 2020 19:40:01 GMT -5
I will take this opportunity to lament that Emotiva changed their previous (and common industry (pseudo defacto) standard of right side AC input on G1/G2, to left side on the G3 amps, thwarting my right side AC distribution. My nice, short AC cables now had to be rebuilt and run across the line inputs when my XPA-7 G2 failed, and needed to be replaced by a G3. If XLR pin standards need to be retained, why not AC location? I have been burned by that before myself. Now, I find myself always adding extra length to the 'service loop' so I can keep my sanity. |
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Post by jackfish on May 12, 2020 11:54:56 GMT -5
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Post by Boomzilla on May 12, 2020 12:42:06 GMT -5
Hi jackfish - In fact, I have the EXACT same strip. My problem with it is that it resides on the floor behind my equipment stand and every individual component on the stand has its own power cord going to the strip. The multiple power cords interfere with the signal cables, with each other, and tend to displace the HDMI cables from their sockets when stress is put on one of those by any of the power cords. What I'm trying to do, instead, is mount the power distribution strip on the back of the equipment rack and in a vertical position so that each of the equipment rack levels can be serviced by very short power cords that will move with the rack. This will minimize wiring entanglements behind the rack when I want to roll out the rack & make interconnection changes. As of right now, the equipment on the rack requiring power includes: Cable TV box Ethernet switch Wireless router (awkward wall wart supply) External HDD (awkward wall wart supply) Streamer (awkward wall wart supply) Roon computer Roon computer monitor TV DAC Oppo disc player Preamplifier (2) mono-block power amplifiers (2) subwoofers (2) DSP boxes for the subwoofers whatever components are in house for review and eventually - two wireless Emotiva transmitters for the subs So as of right now, I have need of 16 power receptacles. I'd expect the need to increase to 18 or 19 from time to time. Even using "one to two" splitters on the power sockets, that's a LOT of power cords. Even with everything running, my Kill-A-Watt meter indicates that I'm nowhere near the capabilities of the 15-amp breaker that serves the room. In addition to the power needs of the rack, I also have: Coaxial cable feeding the Cable box HDMI feeding the TV from its own junction box Oppo HDMI feeding the TV's junction box Cable box HDMI feeding the TV's junction box. Ethernet from computer room's cable modem to the Ethernet switch TOSLINK cable from the TV's junction box to the DAC All of these "extra" wires also link wall-mounted components to the equipment rack. I might be able to bundle all the "extra" wires into a single umbilical cord and then provide strain relief, but I've not yet determined how. |
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DYohn
Emo VIPs 
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Post by DYohn on May 12, 2020 12:49:32 GMT -5
You can do whatever you like only limited by your ability, boom. Just make sure it's safe.
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klinemj
Emo VIPs
Honorary Emofest Scribe
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Post by klinemj on May 12, 2020 21:00:08 GMT -5
Geez BoomzillaAre you the cause of the local brown-outs I've been reading in Baton Rouge? Mark |
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Post by Boomzilla on May 12, 2020 21:48:12 GMT -5
Not me - You'll hear the ZAP! from your place if I make a mistake...  |
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Post by vcautokid on May 13, 2020 12:08:20 GMT -5
Also Snap AV is a great resource for power management. Every one we have installed has been stellar. Rugged, dependable and plain always works great.
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Post by trevordj on May 18, 2020 15:35:50 GMT -5
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Post by 405x5 on May 18, 2020 17:20:14 GMT -5
I think that the only way I’m EVER going to divest myself of the rat’s nest of wires behind my equipment rack is to install a pair of custom power strips mounted directly to the back of the rack. Provided I follow UL guidelines and design for maximum current draw, is there anything else to consider? I don’t want surge suppression, line-conditioning, or onboard breakers - just neat and organized power distribution. Boom Love this....  |
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Post by donh50 on May 19, 2020 11:17:36 GMT -5
Why not just mount your current power strip vertically inside the rack? Or a pair of them...
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Post by SteveH on May 19, 2020 16:10:50 GMT -5
Hi jackfish - In fact, I have the EXACT same strip. My problem with it is that it resides on the floor behind my equipment stand and every individual component on the stand has its own power cord going to the strip. The multiple power cords interfere with the signal cables, with each other, and tend to displace the HDMI cables from their sockets when stress is put on one of those by any of the power cords. What I'm trying to do, instead, is mount the power distribution strip on the back of the equipment rack and in a vertical position so that each of the equipment rack levels can be serviced by very short power cords that will move with the rack. This will minimize wiring entanglements behind the rack when I want to roll out the rack & make interconnection changes. All of these "extra" wires also link wall-mounted components to the equipment rack. I might be able to bundle all the "extra" wires into a single umbilical cord and then provide strain relief, but I've not yet determined how. Hi Boom, with what you stated in this post, I think I would concentrate on cable management first. Cable management takes a lot of thought and pre-planning. You need to organize your wiring with 'strain relief' and then 'service loops' Add tie-blocks or saddle clamps to the back of your A/V setup so you have a place to secure the wiring. If you secure the cables within 6 - 12 inches of the components, they won't be strained, preloaded or pull out. My A/V cabinet is wood and I have screwed in at least thirty saddle blocks wherever needed to secure my wiring and they are dirt cheap. I have four categories of paths, power cords to strips on the rack, low level/HDMI, speaker wires, cable/Ehternet. I have S-turns behind my equipment so when I move the rack, it all moves in unison. The umbilical cord idea does work very well. Happy wire routing! The two power strips in the photo have been upgraded to two CMX-6 power strips, I even purchased one of them from you, thank you very much! www.anixter.com/en_mx/products/TC92/ABB/Supplies/p/624720 Attachments:
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