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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 7, 2022 18:56:06 GMT -5
Have contacted Emo service about the 2 issues I am having. Will go from there. Thanks again to all for help.
Regards.
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Mar 8, 2022 0:29:28 GMT -5
However, there is another issue I have been having since putting the RMC back into the system that I did not include before because I did not think it could apply. I still be it doesn't but will describe what it is. The unit had firmware ver 2.3/3 when I started using it again. I normally have Video Remains On selected as I did at this time. The issue is that when the RMC is off for any length of time, when I turn the tv on there is no video. I need to reselect the tv HDMI input in order to get the video to come. After this is done, things will be ok as long as I don't turn the RMC and tv off for several hours. If I do, especially overnight, I will not get any video when I first turn on the tv. I updated to ver 2.5 firmware to see if that would help put still have the issue. I had an issue like you describe where the tv has no video at turn-on. My Sony tv started doing this about four months ago or so, after I allowed a firmware update, a Sony tv firmware update, and it started taking longer for it to "discover" that there is something connected to it. Changing HDMI inputs on the tv away and back would catch the signal coming from the processor. I reset the tv and that issue hasn't happened since, but still takes a long time to display active video at turn-on, much longer than it took the previous two years, and, it still can lose video when I switch to the Apple TV, but switching the tv's HDMI inputs gets the video working again. Sometimes nothing I switch will restore video, so only unplugging the tv for a few minutes will work. Unplugging the processor does nothing for this. This issue showed up with the tv firmware update, not when I later updated firmware in the XMC-2.
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 8, 2022 1:11:28 GMT -5
Thanks much for the tip. Will look into it.
Take care.
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Post by doc1963 on Mar 8, 2022 6:35:37 GMT -5
Those settings use the incoming signal as a reference to determine whether that particular trigger is deployed or not. If you want both amplifiers to turn on regardless of what “speakers” are used based upon the type of signal, then leave them all selected. Since I have separate two channel and 9 channel amps, I configure my triggers based upon the inputs. 2-channel inputs only use trigger 1 (where my 2 channel amp is connected) and all multichannel inputs use both triggers. Since my subwoofers are always used, one is connected to the trigger output of my XPA-DR2 and then daisy chained between the two subwoofers. Just was grasping at straws. Will leave settings as is. If there is some issue with the current it takes to trigger the amps, will the ET-3 that I ordered help in that regard or is it just a waste? I cannot say whether the ET-3 will help you with this particular issue. But since you’ve ordered it, you’ll soon find out. What I do find extremely odd is that you didn’t have a problem triggering these amps with your HTP-1. According to the users manual, the HTP-1 only supplies 50 mA to each of its trigger outputs. It also has an “over-current” protection system just like your Emo. If you have any other device that responds to a 12v trigger (and falls within the specs of a “normal” current draw), I’d be curious to see whether your RMC-1’s triggers are working at all. If they are, and if the ET-3 does not work for you, I’d reach out to Dylan to see if your amps could be retrofitted with the new input board that he is using moving forward. I believe he mentioned that this is a modification that one can do himself and it might be reassuring to know that they could now be triggered by just about anything…
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 8, 2022 7:52:58 GMT -5
Just was grasping at straws. Will leave settings as is. If there is some issue with the current it takes to trigger the amps, will the ET-3 that I ordered help in that regard or is it just a waste? I cannot say whether the ET-3 will help you with this particular issue. But since you’ve ordered it, you’ll soon find out. What I do find extremely odd is that you didn’t have a problem triggering these amps with your HTP-1. According to the users manual, the HTP-1 only supplies 50 mA to each of its trigger outputs. It also has an “over-current” protection system just like your Emo. If you have any other device that responds to a 12v trigger (and falls within the specs of a “normal” current draw), I’d be curious to see whether your RMC-1’s triggers are working at all. If they are, and if the ET-3 does not work for you, I’d reach out to Dylan to see if your amps could be retrofitted with the new input board that he is using moving forward. I believe he mentioned that this is a modification that one can do himself and it might be reassuring to know that they could now be triggered by just about anything… Unfortunately I have nothing else that would use the triggers. I will definitely check with Dylan about the new input board. I have an inexpensive voltmeter coming tomorrow. Thought I would check what the signal strength of the RMC is. Since I have no idea how to test, I will be back when I am ready to ask for help. I know nothing about things like that other than don't drop the hair dryer in the bath water. On another note, the Video Remains On function worked as it should this morning. I reinstalled 2.5 and did several cold reboots and factory resets etc. Whatever the issue was appears to have been fixed. Maybe I will try the triggers again just in case. Hope springs eternal .....
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 8, 2022 10:54:01 GMT -5
To make sure the amps are working correctly, I powered on the HTP-1 and connected Trigger 1's output to one of the Buckeye amps. The trigger worked correctly! The amp powered on as it should. So it is not a problem with the amp or its setup.
At the suggestion of Emo support, I set up trigger 4 on the RMC just like the others. This did not work either.
I have an Emo amp that I could dig out and give it a quick try. Be a real pain but it might answer some questions.
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 8, 2022 12:10:09 GMT -5
These almost 74 year old bones are not going to be able to drag that Emo amp around any more. That sucker is heavy!
I confirmed that the HTP-1 works with the Emo amp AND the Buckeye amps. I confirmed that the RMC-1 works with the Emo amp but does not/not work with the Buckeye amps. Go figure. Obviously there is something about the Buckeyes that the RMC does not like. For the life of me I cannot figure out what that is.
Guess I have to hope that the ET-3 will get the RMC and Buckeyes to work. I would really like for this to happen but if not, I am not going to go back to the monster Emo amp. It is just to heavy for me to fiddle with my system. I like to change things around every now and then and that amp is just to heavy for me to do that.
Regards
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Mar 8, 2022 12:31:23 GMT -5
These almost 74 year old bones are not going to be able to drag that Emo amp around any more. That sucker is heavy! I confirmed that the HTP-1 works with the Emo amp AND the Buckeye amps. I confirmed that the RMC-1 works with the Emo amp but does not/not work with the Buckeye amps. Go figure. Obviously there is something about the Buckeyes that the RMC does not like. For the life of me I cannot figure out what that is. Guess I have to hope that the ET-3 will get the RMC and Buckeyes to work. I would really like for this to happen but if not, I am not going to go back to the monster Emo amp. It is just to heavy for me to fiddle with my system. I like to change things around every now and then and that amp is just to heavy for me to do that. Regards Hopefully the ET-3 will help....if not, maybe the new Buckeye board?
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Post by jbrunwa on Mar 8, 2022 13:01:06 GMT -5
These almost 74 year old bones are not going to be able to drag that Emo amp around any more. That sucker is heavy! I confirmed that the HTP-1 works with the Emo amp AND the Buckeye amps. I confirmed that the RMC-1 works with the Emo amp but does not/not work with the Buckeye amps. Go figure. Obviously there is something about the Buckeyes that the RMC does not like. For the life of me I cannot figure out what that is. Guess I have to hope that the ET-3 will get the RMC and Buckeyes to work. I would really like for this to happen but if not, I am not going to go back to the monster Emo amp. It is just to heavy for me to fiddle with my system. I like to change things around every now and then and that amp is just to heavy for me to do that. Regards Hopefully the ET-3 will help....if not, maybe the new Buckeye board? If the ET-3 doesn’t work, I would send the RMC in for trigger circuit warranty repair.
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Mar 8, 2022 13:06:34 GMT -5
Hopefully the ET-3 will help....if not, maybe the new Buckeye board? If the ET-3 doesn’t work, I would send the RMC in for trigger circuit warranty repair. Agreed, especially since others with Buckeye amps are working with the triggers.
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 8, 2022 14:15:57 GMT -5
Hopefully the ET-3 will help....if not, maybe the new Buckeye board? If the ET-3 doesn’t work, I would send the RMC in for trigger circuit warranty repair. Agree with this. I will do this if it becomes the best course of action. I have also contacted Dylan at Buckeye about the possibility of getting new boards. Best Regards
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 9, 2022 9:27:19 GMT -5
If the ET-3 doesn’t work, I would send the RMC in for trigger circuit warranty repair. Agree with this. I will do this if it becomes the best course of action. I have also contacted Dylan at Buckeye about the possibility of getting new boards. Best Regards For those of you that have been following my ongoing saga of triggers not working I am happy to report that the ET-3 Trigger Module works perfectly! All is well in trigger land. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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hemster
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Post by hemster on Mar 9, 2022 11:08:33 GMT -5
Agree with this. I will do this if it becomes the best course of action. I have also contacted Dylan at Buckeye about the possibility of getting new boards. Best Regards For those of you that have been following my ongoing saga of triggers not working I am happy to report that the ET-3 Trigger Module works perfectly! All is well in trigger land. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming. So finally you are trigger happy!
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Mar 9, 2022 15:27:04 GMT -5
Just talking out loud here, but as far as feature requests go I'd love some day if the speaker levels and distance/delay settings would be carried over into the Gen 3 processors after enabling a Dirac calibration profile. I believe ttocs or someone else mentioned there's a way to pull that from a config file somewhere but it would be great if those values could be written to the processor so we could modify those as needed. I have no idea what they are set to in relation to each other after I run Dirac and it would be nice to be able to bump some channels up or down a little as needed.
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Mar 9, 2022 16:08:04 GMT -5
Just talking out loud here, but as far as feature requests go I'd love some day if the speaker levels and distance/delay settings would be carried over into the Gen 3 processors after enabling a Dirac calibration profile. I believe ttocs or someone else mentioned there's a way to pull that from a config file somewhere but it would be great if those values could be written to the processor so we could modify those as needed. I have no idea what they are set to in relation to each other after I run Dirac and it would be nice to be able to bump some channels up or down a little as needed. Speaker Level is always adjustable, even with a Dirac Filter active. It's just that after Dirac has done its own leveling, the target is for all channels to be at 0.0dB Level. But I've found that a little tweaking is usually needed, but only a dB or so. Distance is not adjustable for a Dirac Filter in the processor menu. And for good reason. Adjusting this after the fact would mess with the timing Dirac has measured at the first mic position for all channels.
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Mar 9, 2022 16:22:46 GMT -5
Just talking out loud here, but as far as feature requests go I'd love some day if the speaker levels and distance/delay settings would be carried over into the Gen 3 processors after enabling a Dirac calibration profile. I believe ttocs or someone else mentioned there's a way to pull that from a config file somewhere but it would be great if those values could be written to the processor so we could modify those as needed. I have no idea what they are set to in relation to each other after I run Dirac and it would be nice to be able to bump some channels up or down a little as needed. Speaker Level is always adjustable, even with a Dirac Filter active. It's just that after Dirac has done its own leveling, the target is for all channels to be at 0.0dB Level. But I've found that a little tweaking is usually needed, but only a dB or so. Distance is not adjustable for a Dirac Filter in the processor menu. And for good reason. Adjusting this after the fact would mess with the timing Dirac has measured at the first mic position for all channels. Thanks, yes I know you wouldn't want to adjust the distance - that part is fine to leave as it since it does disable that option which I forgot about. For speaker levels, I do realize you can still change those after Dirac, generally wouldn't mess with it much but I find that my surrounds don't seem very loud many times (probably the film mix more than anything) it would just be nice to know where the trims are set to if I did want to play around with levels like other processors show. Not a huge deal, just something that would be nice. I'm more concerned with DLBC
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Mar 9, 2022 18:56:10 GMT -5
Distance is not adjustable for a Dirac Filter in the processor menu. And for good reason. Adjusting this after the fact would mess with the timing Dirac has measured at the first mic position for all channels. For speaker levels, I do realize you can still change those after Dirac, generally wouldn't mess with it much but I find that my surrounds don't seem very loud many times (probably the film mix more than anything) it would just be nice to know where the trims are set to if I did want to play around with levels like other processors show. Not a huge deal, just something that would be nice. I'm more concerned with DLBC Well, if you really want to know where to look to see how Dirac has all the channels set for both Distance and Gain, you can open one of the files with Dirac in the name when you perform a backup of Settings. I marked the channel names (Doctor says there's a 50/50 chance I might be wrong about the order of the Tops, but there's only a 10% chance of that. (The Naked Gun, about the chance of survival of Nordberg)) which are in the order of how Dirac cycles through all the channels with the exception of Center Sub, which, for some reason is at the bottom of the list, but when the measurement is being taken it's right after Left Sub. Notice how much level reduction there is for both subwoofers. When folks talk about their system being quieter after Dirac, keep this in mind. There's lots going on with these two simple looking settings. I wouldn't mess with them - especially delay, but it helps me to understand how some things might be calculated. The Left Surround and Left Rear are the two quietest channels as those speakers are the farthest from MLP, so that's why these are closest to 0.0dB. After running Dirac I might need to adjust a few channels 0.5dB, or -1dB, etc, but it's usually very close to zero. I've looked at this before, but now I'm getting the idea of doing several runs of Dirac with various subwoofer levels to see if the resulting Gain Setting in this file is altered at all. Maybe next weekend.
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Post by marcl on Mar 9, 2022 20:27:33 GMT -5
For speaker levels, I do realize you can still change those after Dirac, generally wouldn't mess with it much but I find that my surrounds don't seem very loud many times (probably the film mix more than anything) it would just be nice to know where the trims are set to if I did want to play around with levels like other processors show. Not a huge deal, just something that would be nice. I'm more concerned with DLBC Well, if you really want to know where to look to see how Dirac has all the channels set for both Distance and Gain, you can open one of the files with Dirac in the name when you perform a backup of Settings. <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> I marked the channel names (Doctor says there's a 50/50 chance I might be wrong about the order of the Tops, but there's only a 10% chance of that. (The Naked Gun, about the chance of survival of Nordberg)) which are in the order of how Dirac cycles through all the channels with the exception of Center Sub, which, for some reason is at the bottom of the list, but when the measurement is being taken it's right after Left Sub. Notice how much level reduction there is for both subwoofers. When folks talk about their system being quieter after Dirac, keep this in mind. There's lots going on with these two simple looking settings. I wouldn't mess with them - especially delay, but it helps me to understand how some things might be calculated. The Left Surround and Left Rear are the two quietest channels as those speakers are the farthest from MLP, so that's why these are closest to 0.0dB. After running Dirac I might need to adjust a few channels 0.5dB, or -1dB, etc, but it's usually very close to zero. I've looked at this before, but now I'm getting the idea of doing several runs of Dirac with various subwoofer levels to see if the resulting Gain Setting in this file is altered at all. Maybe next weekend. Why didn't I think of that! So if you added 3db to all the levels and restored settings, would the overall level go up 3db?
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Mar 9, 2022 20:38:00 GMT -5
Well, if you really want to know where to look to see how Dirac has all the channels set for both Distance and Gain, you can open one of the files with Dirac in the name when you perform a backup of Settings. <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> I marked the channel names (Doctor says there's a 50/50 chance I might be wrong about the order of the Tops, but there's only a 10% chance of that. (The Naked Gun, about the chance of survival of Nordberg)) which are in the order of how Dirac cycles through all the channels with the exception of Center Sub, which, for some reason is at the bottom of the list, but when the measurement is being taken it's right after Left Sub. Notice how much level reduction there is for both subwoofers. When folks talk about their system being quieter after Dirac, keep this in mind. There's lots going on with these two simple looking settings. I wouldn't mess with them - especially delay, but it helps me to understand how some things might be calculated. The Left Surround and Left Rear are the two quietest channels as those speakers are the farthest from MLP, so that's why these are closest to 0.0dB. After running Dirac I might need to adjust a few channels 0.5dB, or -1dB, etc, but it's usually very close to zero. I've looked at this before, but now I'm getting the idea of doing several runs of Dirac with various subwoofer levels to see if the resulting Gain Setting in this file is altered at all. Maybe next weekend. Why didn't I think of that! So if you added 3db to all the levels and restored settings, would the overall level go up 3db? Here's the rub. I'm looking at this with a text file editor, but it's a UNIX Executable file, so I don't know how to edit it so it remains useable. It's just easier to use Levels in the processor. edit: I think the more interesting part of this is to see how low Dirac puts the subwoofer levels at vs the other channels. This would've been when the subs would be Volume Calibrated @ -20dB, while the speaker channels would be @ -26dB, so there's a 6dB difference. But, when the measurements were done all the channels sounded at the same SPL. I haven't done a saved settings with Dirac 3.2.2 to see what difference there may be, if any.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Mar 9, 2022 23:59:05 GMT -5
You've got me curious now... (I haven't actually looked at those files in quite some time.)
That looks like XML - which can be edited in most text editors.
However, one thing I would point out is that you don't know where that file sits in the process itself.
I suspect that, every time you "Create Filters", Dirac Live creates that file, then immediately transfers it to the processor... If so then there would be no point in editing it. Because, the next time you do "Create Filters", any edits you've made to that file will be overwritten...
And there would be no way to instruct the software to download your edited file without overwriting it first... (There is no separate option to "download existing filters" without creating new filters from the current data first.)
If I'm right, then that file allows you to see the filters after they're downloaded, but not to edit the filters before they're downloaded.
But, as I said, I haven't actually looked... and I can't officially endorse hacking into the filter creation process. (I CAN tell you that, if you were to successfully change values there, and end up with values that are invalid, the result could be... unexpected... and potentially bad.)
For speaker levels, I do realize you can still change those after Dirac, generally wouldn't mess with it much but I find that my surrounds don't seem very loud many times (probably the film mix more than anything) it would just be nice to know where the trims are set to if I did want to play around with levels like other processors show. Not a huge deal, just something that would be nice. I'm more concerned with DLBC Well, if you really want to know where to look to see how Dirac has all the channels set for both Distance and Gain, you can open one of the files with Dirac in the name when you perform a backup of Settings. <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> I marked the channel names (Doctor says there's a 50/50 chance I might be wrong about the order of the Tops, but there's only a 10% chance of that. (The Naked Gun, about the chance of survival of Nordberg)) which are in the order of how Dirac cycles through all the channels with the exception of Center Sub, which, for some reason is at the bottom of the list, but when the measurement is being taken it's right after Left Sub. Notice how much level reduction there is for both subwoofers. When folks talk about their system being quieter after Dirac, keep this in mind. There's lots going on with these two simple looking settings. I wouldn't mess with them - especially delay, but it helps me to understand how some things might be calculated. The Left Surround and Left Rear are the two quietest channels as those speakers are the farthest from MLP, so that's why these are closest to 0.0dB. After running Dirac I might need to adjust a few channels 0.5dB, or -1dB, etc, but it's usually very close to zero. I've looked at this before, but now I'm getting the idea of doing several runs of Dirac with various subwoofer levels to see if the resulting Gain Setting in this file is altered at all. Maybe next weekend.
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