Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 22, 2022 7:28:55 GMT -5
Besides the horrendous buzzing sound I got while fast forwarding and then playing the recording (its a go and stop issues if you know what I mean), I also lost all audio from all sources later last night. I first watched a blue ray movie that was in Dolby Digital with no problem. I then went to play a Dolby Atmos movie (Sing 2). The audio for the Main Menu went ok, then played the movie. The audio was supposed to be Dolby Atmos but it started playing in PCM 7.1 (screen display). I then went into the Main Menu again and went to the Setup section and for Audio picked Dolby Atmos. When I resumed the movie, there was no sound. All indications seemed to be showing that audio and video were being received but no audio was coming out. No matter what source I chose there was no audio. No tv or AppleTV audio. I finally fixed it by powering the unit down to lowest power, waited a few minutes, then restarted the RMC. The audio then worked as it should again. Sorry for the long winded explanation above but just wanted to try and explain as best I could what happened. All is working fine this morning. By the way, Sing 2 (and for me Sing as well) are fun movies with excellent audio. I especially noticed how good Sing 2 sounded last night when I got it working right. Take care. I’ve had to reboot my XMC2 before too since these processors are like little computers. But very infrequently compared to the old Theta Casanova that malfunctions when I mess around in the menu too much. With this new target curve thing, I gotta say Dirac finally resolved the need to apply Harman curves too. The way things sound now even without DLBC, the sound is really good. I can live with the menu system that went from slow to being acceptably fast to now slow again. Is Sing 2 on Disney? I’ll have to give it a listen. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Apr 22, 2022 8:06:20 GMT -5
Besides the horrendous buzzing sound I got while fast forwarding and then playing the recording (its a go and stop issues if you know what I mean), I also lost all audio from all sources later last night. I first watched a blue ray movie that was in Dolby Digital with no problem. I then went to play a Dolby Atmos movie (Sing 2). The audio for the Main Menu went ok, then played the movie. The audio was supposed to be Dolby Atmos but it started playing in PCM 7.1 (screen display). I then went into the Main Menu again and went to the Setup section and for Audio picked Dolby Atmos. When I resumed the movie, there was no sound. All indications seemed to be showing that audio and video were being received but no audio was coming out. No matter what source I chose there was no audio. No tv or AppleTV audio. I finally fixed it by powering the unit down to lowest power, waited a few minutes, then restarted the RMC. The audio then worked as it should again. Sorry for the long winded explanation above but just wanted to try and explain as best I could what happened. All is working fine this morning. By the way, Sing 2 (and for me Sing as well) are fun movies with excellent audio. I especially noticed how good Sing 2 sounded last night when I got it working right. Take care. Is Sing 2 on Disney? I’ll have to give it a listen. I bought the disc so watched that. I could not find it on Disney but you can rent it on Amazon Prime. Sing 2 is by Universal so not sure where else you might look. |
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Post by frederick on Apr 22, 2022 8:42:18 GMT -5
Just out of curiosity why are you not using the HTP-1? I did a great deal of research trying to decide what AVP to purchase and concluded the HTP-1 was very good value, in terms of $ per feature, so to speak. Thanks. Frederick Main reason was I thought for sure the new firmware from Emo would be out soon so wanted my unit in use when it did. That has not worked out to good has it. The HTP-1 is an excellent processor but I had recently been getting that "boot loop" issue. Once you know how to fix it, it doesn't take long to correct but it can be bothersome. And just like the RMC, the unit should not be suffering issues like this after such a long period of being in the real world. Regards. Thanks for the feedback. What version of firmware were you using prior to removing it from service? I've read about the problem, the vendor says they found the solution, yet some folks are reporting it was not solved. So far I've been lucky. Frederick |
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Post by Thunderduck on Apr 22, 2022 9:29:04 GMT -5
Main reason was I thought for sure the new firmware from Emo would be out soon so wanted my unit in use when it did. That has not worked out to good has it. The HTP-1 is an excellent processor but I had recently been getting that "boot loop" issue. Once you know how to fix it, it doesn't take long to correct but it can be bothersome. And just like the RMC, the unit should not be suffering issues like this after such a long period of being in the real world. Regards. Thanks for the feedback. What version of firmware were you using prior to removing it from service? I've read about the problem, the vendor says the found the solution, yet some folks are reporting it was not solved. So far I've been lucky. Frederick Was on 1.9.1. Tried on 1.8.9 but had it happen on that version as well. It only takes about 10 minutes to recover but still inconvenient. To be honest, with the way my RMC is starting to act up I am seriously thinking of going back to the HTP. It does have a lot going for it, including DLBC. Can always update the RMC once the firmware is released and have had a chance to see if it is working as it should. Steve |
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Post by panasonicst60 on Apr 22, 2022 15:25:05 GMT -5
When Dirac sounds thin, it is probably due to the fact that the mic was not spread out enough between measurements. At least that has always been the way I resolved the issue. Thanks! My front to back could have used a little more spread. So doing that and having the low mic positions not low enough seems to have done it. This has been mentioned before but just in case you haven't seen it. I don't use tightly focus, even though I only care about a one seat listening position for music, as it can sound very slightly dull, flat, thin, and closed in. I go to is the 13pts which I believe is call focus. Never tired the wide spread (19pt?) |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 22, 2022 17:15:38 GMT -5
Thanks! My front to back could have used a little more spread. So doing that and having the low mic positions not low enough seems to have done it. This has been mentioned before but just in case you haven't seen it. I don't use tightly focus, even though I only care about a one seat listening position for music, as it can sound very slightly dull, flat, thin, and closed in. I go to is the 13pts which I believe is call focus. Never tired the wide spread (19pt?) I usually do the 9 point but I did the 13 pt this time around. I’ll do a 9 pt later for 2 channel music although the 13 pt sound very good for music. |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 22, 2022 18:42:47 GMT -5
Well I just saw that Dirac pumped my right sub to +9dB over the rest of the speakers. I had to turn it down to level match the other speakers so I don’t blow the sub.
My buddy who has a pair of JL F113 did say he had trouble with Dirac and JL subs. Something to keep an eye on I guess.
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apaz75
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Post by apaz75 on Apr 23, 2022 16:59:17 GMT -5
Well I just saw that Dirac pumped my right sub to +9dB over the rest of the speakers. I had to turn it down to level match the other speakers so I don’t blow the sub. My buddy who has a pair of JL F113 did say he had trouble with Dirac and JL subs. Something to keep an eye on I guess. How were you able to see what levels Dirac adjusted your sub to? I haven’t found a way to do this with the XMC-2 other than just checking the levels with an SPL meter. |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 23, 2022 18:18:55 GMT -5
Well I just saw that Dirac pumped my right sub to +9dB over the rest of the speakers. I had to turn it down to level match the other speakers so I don’t blow the sub. My buddy who has a pair of JL F113 did say he had trouble with Dirac and JL subs. Something to keep an eye on I guess. How were you able to see what levels Dirac adjusted your sub to? I haven’t found a way to do this with the XMC-2 other than just checking the levels with an SPL meter. Same as you, I used an SPL meter. Dirac is supposed to level match but obviously it’s a little flawed. |
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apaz75
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Post by apaz75 on Apr 23, 2022 18:36:00 GMT -5
[/quote]Same as you, I used an SPL meter. Dirac is supposed to level match but obviously it’s a little flawed. [/quote]
Okay, yeah I’ve run in to the same issue…never that high but I always seem to adjust a few channels by a decibel or two. I really wish Emotiva would give us the option to see what Dirac is setting each channel level at like some of the other processors using Dirac.
I can’t do a Dirac run with my Atmos speakers on anymore because it throws the front three channels way out of wack, makes them way to quiet. My bed layer speakers are all very high sensitivity and the Atmos speakers are not, which I think is what’s causing the problem now.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 23, 2022 20:31:24 GMT -5
Okay, yeah I’ve run in to the same issue…never that high but I always seem to adjust a few channels by a decibel or two. I really wish Emotiva would give us the option to see what Dirac is setting each channel level at like some of the other processors using Dirac. I can’t do a Dirac run with my Atmos speakers on anymore because it throws the front three channels way out of wack, makes them way to quiet. My bed layer speakers are all very high sensitivity and the Atmos speakers are not, which I think is what’s causing the problem now. Yes, I have experienced that before with the in-ceiling speakers powered by a cheap amp and that threw Dirac all off. |
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Post by hsamwel on Apr 24, 2022 4:34:45 GMT -5
Okay, yeah I’ve run in to the same issue…never that high but I always seem to adjust a few channels by a decibel or two. I really wish Emotiva would give us the option to see what Dirac is setting each channel level at like some of the other processors using Dirac. I can’t do a Dirac run with my Atmos speakers on anymore because it throws the front three channels way out of wack, makes them way to quiet. My bed layer speakers are all very high sensitivity and the Atmos speakers are not, which I think is what’s causing the problem now. Yes, I have experienced that before with the in-ceiling speakers powered by a cheap amp and that threw Dirac all off. The best is always to use speakers of the same type or model. If that can’t be done then atleast speakers with the same or similar specs. Same goes for the amps. Best if the same model is used, but similar speced works fine. Too much difference can indeed cause these problems with volume. Putting Klipsch speakers LCR and then some <86dB sensitive speakers around isn’t a great idea. Especially combining this with differently speced amps. |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 24, 2022 10:54:15 GMT -5
Yes, I have experienced that before with the in-ceiling speakers powered by a cheap amp and that threw Dirac all off. The best is always to use speakers of the same type or model. If that can’t be done then atleast speakers with the same or similar specs. Same goes for the amps. Best if the same model is used, but similar speced works fine. Too much difference can indeed cause these problems with volume. Putting Klipsch speakers LCR and then some <86dB sensitive speakers around isn’t a great idea. Especially combining this with differently speced amps. It’s just not always easy with Atmos. Revel doesn’t even make Atmos speakers but I’ve lowered the priority on Atmos since my XMC2 is in my family room now and Atmos is not possible without getting a possible divorce 🥹. |
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apaz75
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Post by apaz75 on Apr 24, 2022 15:19:46 GMT -5
The best is always to use speakers of the same type or model. If that can’t be done then atleast speakers with the same or similar specs. Same goes for the amps. Best if the same model is used, but similar speced works fine. Too much difference can indeed cause these problems with volume. Putting Klipsch speakers LCR and then some <86dB sensitive speakers around isn’t a great idea. Especially combining this with differently speced amps. It’s just not always easy with Atmos. Revel doesn’t even make Atmos speakers but I’ve lowered the priority on Atmos since my XMC2 is in my family room now and Atmos is not possible without getting a possible divorce 🥹. Yeah I agree. I upgraded all my speakers to PSA 210/110s. They don’t make in-ceiling speakers though. I currently have RSL ceiling speakers which are only in the high 80s for sensitivity. Everything is powered by an XPA-11, so I don’t think it’s an amp issue. I think I’ll just have to look at upgrading my ceiling speakers eventually to higher sensitivity ones. I’ve been looking at Klipsch Pro 180RPC-LCR which have a nice 45 degree angle for aiming at the MLP and are really high sensitivity. |
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Post by aswiss on Apr 24, 2022 16:46:56 GMT -5
The best is always to use speakers of the same type or model. If that can’t be done then atleast speakers with the same or similar specs. Same goes for the amps. Best if the same model is used, but similar speced works fine. Too much difference can indeed cause these problems with volume. Putting Klipsch speakers LCR and then some <86dB sensitive speakers around isn’t a great idea. Especially combining this with differently speced amps. It’s just not always easy with Atmos. Revel doesn’t even make Atmos speakers but I’ve lowered the priority on Atmos since my XMC2 is in my family room now and Atmos is not possible without getting a possible divorce 🥹. I was thinking, how to mount my F-208/F-206 or the C-208 on the ceiling.
I'm pretty sure, 90% of all Dirac Users will have something else as Atmos Speakers - therefore, this cannot be the reason for this behaviour.
I bought my Nubert WS-14 because they were white, and offered a ceiling mount with it.
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Post by hsamwel on Apr 25, 2022 19:16:45 GMT -5
It’s just not always easy with Atmos. Revel doesn’t even make Atmos speakers but I’ve lowered the priority on Atmos since my XMC2 is in my family room now and Atmos is not possible without getting a possible divorce 🥹. I was thinking, how to mount my F-208/F-206 or the C-208 on the ceiling.
I'm pretty sure, 90% of all Dirac Users will have something else as Atmos Speakers - therefore, this cannot be the reason for this behaviour.
I bought my Nubert WS-14 because they were white, and offered a ceiling mount with it.
Those are some great wall/ceiling mounts. Looks really good. You don’t need the speakers to be exact the same specs. But it helps! Having +10dB difference in sensitivity can be troublesome. Depending on which speakers have the lowest sensitivity. In my setup I have all 13 speakers from the same manufacturer. All but the fronts have the exact same sensitivity 87dB. The fronts are slightly more sensitive at 88dB. I’m lucky the SVS Prime Elevation which I use for atmos are speced the same as the bookshelf models they have for the Ultra and Prime series. It makes the volume settings a lot easier. Although the same specs they still have some difference when measured. This because no pair of speakers are placed at the exact same distance from the MLP. Also I don’t have the same amps or power on all speakers. So you could have different speced speakers and use the more sensitive on those with the longest distance from MLP. |
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Post by brbecker on Apr 26, 2022 10:00:46 GMT -5
I have the HDfury Vrroom 2.1 unit and it is flawless. My XMC-2 is perfect now. I am telling you every issue these processors have is based around the HDMI board. I have zero freeze up issues, zero audio issues. Zero issues all together now. The loss of the OSD is not a big deal for me cause I can see my XMC-2 display. And the Vrroom will on screen display its formats each time. But I am telling you 100% better. Fully future proof too. No matter what you decide to do in the future this unit is a must in my book.danblack |
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Post by brbecker on Apr 26, 2022 10:06:32 GMT -5
I have the HDfury Vrroom 2.1 unit and it is flawless. My XMC-2 is perfect now. I am telling you every issue these processors have is based around the HDMI board. I have zero freeze up issues, zero audio issues. Zero issues all together now. The loss of the OSD is not a big deal for me cause I can see my XMC-2 display. And the Vrroom will on screen display its formats each time. But I am telling you 100% better. Fully future proof too. No matter what you decide to do in the future this unit is a must in my book. danblack, how did you setup the input/outputs of the VRROM 2.1 and the input/outputs of the RMC1? I just received my VRROOM and I'm new to this product. Thanks |
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Post by JNieves on Apr 26, 2022 11:23:25 GMT -5
I have the HDfury Vrroom 2.1 unit and it is flawless. My XMC-2 is perfect now. I am telling you every issue these processors have is based around the HDMI board. I have zero freeze up issues, zero audio issues. Zero issues all together now. The loss of the OSD is not a big deal for me cause I can see my XMC-2 display. And the Vrroom will on screen display its formats each time. But I am telling you 100% better. Fully future proof too. No matter what you decide to do in the future this unit is a must in my book. Emphasis is mine, agree 100%. My PS4 and AppleTV misbehaved until I put HDFury's Dr.HDMI 4k between them and the XMC-2. Before Dr.HDMI the PS4 would display 4k video but without sound and wouldn't recognize the TV as HDR, after Dr.HDMI I have access to everything; AppleTV wouldn't send Atmos or recognize HDR until Dr.HDMI 4k was inserted into the chain. |
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Post by bitzerjdb on Apr 26, 2022 12:56:51 GMT -5
I have the HDfury Vrroom 2.1 unit and it is flawless. My XMC-2 is perfect now. I am telling you every issue these processors have is based around the HDMI board. I have zero freeze up issues, zero audio issues. Zero issues all together now. The loss of the OSD is not a big deal for me cause I can see my XMC-2 display. And the Vrroom will on screen display its formats each time. But I am telling you 100% better. Fully future proof too. No matter what you decide to do in the future this unit is a must in my book. danblack, how did you setup the input/outputs of the VRROM 2.1 and the input/outputs of the RMC1? I just received my VRROOM and I'm new to this product. Thanks Simple, your Inputs go to the Inputs...your TX0 Output goes to the Display, and the Audio Out goes to your Audio Processor. If also want to connect a LAN cable to the device so you can use the WEB Page configuration. Out of the Box works 99% of the time. Have fun, it's a great unit. FYI - Use Discord and look for the HDFury Channel. You can get all the support you need there in the Vrroom subgroup. |
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