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Post by fazedout on Apr 30, 2022 20:47:13 GMT -5
I learned a new word today! and not in a roundabout way! |
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Post by dvcdude on May 1, 2022 6:18:23 GMT -5
I do not want to sound like a Fanboy here, but I read through this thread to see reactions to new Firmware before I do an update. I have been with Emotiva since the days of the DMC-1 and I still run my system with an MPS-1 amplifier that I hope never loses a channel or such. I used a Marantz processor a few years back when waiting for the original XMC-1 to release and prefer the sound of Emotiva processors. I have an XMC-2 running a 7.1.4 system and I use RTI automation. I put it in my rack, had to run Dirac several times to get the sound I like and it just runs. Occasionally I have to turn off the processor and unplug for a couple of minutes. Big Deal! I love the sound quality and it just runs my system well. I have a MiniDSP for my 2 subs and never have a problem! I do not understand all the "Issues" and bickering on this board. Maybe I have just been lucky with all the equipment I bought from Emotiva over the years!
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Post by modicen on May 1, 2022 6:57:07 GMT -5
I do not want to sound like a Fanboy here, but I read through this thread to see reactions to new Firmware before I do an update. I have been with Emotiva since the days of the DMC-1 and I still run my system with an MPS-1 amplifier that I hope never loses a channel or such. I used a Marantz processor a few years back when waiting for the original XMC-1 to release and prefer the sound of Emotiva processors. I have an XMC-2 running a 7.1.4 system and I use RTI automation. I put it in my rack, had to run Dirac several times to get the sound I like and it just runs. Occasionally I have to turn off the processor and unplug for a couple of minutes. Big Deal! I love the sound quality and it just runs my system well. I have a MiniDSP for my 2 subs and never have a problem! I do not understand all the "Issues" and bickering on this board. Maybe I have just been lucky with all the equipment I bought from Emotiva over the years! You have been lucky but for others not so much. |
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Post by JKCashin on May 1, 2022 9:22:44 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds
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Post by hsamwel on May 1, 2022 16:14:58 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds I have the 2019 Shield Pro and have used it together with both AppleTV 4k versions. No issue with them.. The latest firmware for Shield even got Andriod 11 and new setup options for completely turning off CEC. Which probably may be the culprit for you. Android 11 does also support in OS handling of changing frame rates. So I’m in hope for some future updates with global content frame rate matching as AppleTV has. Other than that Shield works ok. A bit clunkier than AppleTV. Still has some sync issues with Dolby Vision. RMC-1 does not always report Dolby Vision even though my TV says it recieves it.. Sometimes it will not get Atmos. Not having frame rate matching makes it useless now though. I’m forcing each app to 23.976 now but it really sucks when the content isn’t that.. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 1, 2022 16:43:41 GMT -5
Since locating a new center speaker on a stand vs mounted on the wall like the old center speaker, I've been getting ready to move the system components elsewhere, which then means a longer HDMI cable. The one that's been in use for the last couple years is 15' long, and the longer cables I have won't pass DV @60hz, so, new cable.
I just received a RUIPRO 8K HDMI Fiber Optic CL2 Rated 10 Meter 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 cable from deep in the rain forest. The instruction note card said the power adapter is not required, but there's no picture without it, so I plugged it into one of the Apple USB power adapters I purchased just for this situation. I have several of these power adapters from Apple because they are high quality and low noise. Anyway, the cable works as advertised.
What wasn't advertised is that the XMC-2 HDMI switching speed is now quicker than I'm used to, by about 5-6 seconds. Switching to the TV4K used to take 16 seconds and now it's less than 11 seconds. Switching from/to any other device used to take about 12 seconds and now it's less than 8 seconds. I guess this might be due to quicker locks onto the video signal, right?
Also, I used the TV4K Check HDMI Connection tool and it finds no faults with the new cable and comes up with DV @60hz as working like it should.
So now I've got some holes to drill and components to move onto my old DIY rack, which luckily, I kept.
edit: The video looks quite a bit cleaner with the new cable! I thought it was normal to have artifacts along with the graphics, but they're now gone. It's weird to say this, but even The Simpsons looks better. I guess the copper cable I was using was at its limit. Also, when streaming with the TV4K F1TV app there used to be periods fairly often when the stream would become low-res for a short period of time, then suddenly pop back to clean 4K. That hasn't happened with the new cable, plus, when starting a program the clean looking 4K picture starts right away instead of taking about a half minute to settle.
Cables are still a thing.
edit2: UPDATE: Apparently the black screen that happened on the first power up from Video Remains On with the new cable was just that one time. VRO reboots worked fine, but overnight the power must've blipped and the processor was trying to boot from Lowest Power Standby, and the boot process stalled completely. I removed the power adapter that came with the RUIPRO fiber HDMI cable because it was keeping the HDMI connection alive even when the processor was in LPS, so after removing it the processor booted normally. Further, when booting up from lowest power standby with the power adapter connected the subwoofers would thump.
So, without the HDMI cable power adapter the processor now boots normally each time, and still checks out as being 4k 60Hz DV capable by the TV4K.
I've had things like this happen before when swapping HDMI cables, but this was a bit more dramatic. I guess it comes down to the system sensing a change and causing a hiccup.
Regardless, I contacted Emotiva and reported this and also asked what they would recommend as being proper usage of an active fiber HDMI cable.
edit3: I figured out why the black screen happened that one time. It's my Sony TV that was not happy with the change in HDMI cable at first introduction. I should've realized this when the OSD popped up on top of the black screen, but I was too quick to react and insert the power adapter thinking that the 4K signal wasn't making it through.
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Post by hsamwel on May 1, 2022 17:26:03 GMT -5
Went to a friend. He demoed the new Yamaha A8A with his 5.2.4 setup.
He has speakers (Dynaudio and REL LCR+subs) that cost more than my
complete setup. Also a Hegel 590 for his stereo which is used for powering
the fronts in the HT also.
IMHO My RMC-1 runs circles around his system, regarding multi channel.
It’s so much more dynamic, clear and ”full”. The surround effects does not
only come sometimes from somewhere. I hear everything from every direction
clearly and each speaker plays with, what I feel, the same volume and power.
His system setup feels laidback, warm/soft sounding. Better without the room
correction activated. But still nowhere near Emotiva+Dirac.
This makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.. If Emotiva just releases the firmware
with DLBC it will make my setup even better compared to AVRs.
Assuring me I made the right decission going with Emotiva.
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Post by hsamwel on May 1, 2022 18:22:49 GMT -5
It’s just not always easy with Atmos. Revel doesn’t even make Atmos speakers but I’ve lowered the priority on Atmos since my XMC2 is in my family room now and Atmos is not possible without getting a possible divorce 🥹. Yeah I agree. I upgraded all my speakers to PSA 210/110s. They don’t make in-ceiling speakers though. I currently have RSL ceiling speakers which are only in the high 80s for sensitivity. Everything is powered by an XPA-11, so I don’t think it’s an amp issue. I think I’ll just have to look at upgrading my ceiling speakers eventually to higher sensitivity ones. I’ve been looking at Klipsch Pro 180RPC-LCR which have a nice 45 degree angle for aiming at the MLP and are really high sensitivity. My speakers are all 87dB. Driven by XPA-11 also. Except my fronts, although same series, which are 88dB and powered by Anthem MCA225. The amp is speced pretty much the same as Emotivas amp so it does not change anything volume wise. But it sure does for stereo. IMO it’s soo much nicer to listen to than XPA-11 in my setup. The combo RMC-1+XPA-11+SVS Ultras made a light razor edged sound which was hard to listen to especially at higher volumes. The Anthem makes it a lot more natural and full sounding. For HT I had no complaints with the XPA. I have even recommended them to some friends. One of them had trouble with unclear voices from his center. He owned a Parasound before. I told him to try the HC-1 because Emotiva has more neutral, bordering to light/clear, sound compared to Parasound which is ultra warm. He sold the Parasound the day after he tried the HC-1.  |
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Post by markc on May 1, 2022 20:00:42 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds I have the 2019 Shield Pro and have used it together with both AppleTV 4k versions. No issue with them.. The latest firmware for Shield even got Andriod 11 and new setup options for completely turning off CEC. Which probably may be the culprit for you. Android 11 does also support in OS handling of changing frame rates. So I’m in hope for some future updates with global content frame rate matching as AppleTV has. Other than that Shield works ok. A bit clunkier than AppleTV. Still has some sync issues with Dolby Vision. RMC-1 does not always report Dolby Vision even though my TV says it recieves it.. Sometimes it will not get Atmos. Not having frame rate matching makes it useless now though. I’m forcing each app to 23.976 now but it really sucks when the content isn’t that.. Kodi as an App for the Shield does frame rate matching perfectly for all your mkv etc The shield will do frame rate matching flawlessly for all other Apps (BBC iPlayer, Disney plus, Netflix etc) by installing a 3rd party App ( auto refresh rate (on the Google store ) and configuring it (https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/297663/auto-refresh-rate-tool-google-play/ ) for each of your Apps to a specific frame rate on starting the App (best to use 50Hz for BBC, 23.976 for Netflix etc) and also for each App whether to auto-refresh rate change (most Apps) or not (disable this for Kodi as Kodi does it better) I just improved your life! |
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Post by JKCashin on May 1, 2022 21:37:00 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds I have the 2019 Shield Pro and have used it together with both AppleTV 4k versions. No issue with them.. The latest firmware for Shield even got Andriod 11 and new setup options for completely turning off CEC. Which probably may be the culprit for you. Android 11 does also support in OS handling of changing frame rates. So I’m in hope for some future updates with global content frame rate matching as AppleTV has. Other than that Shield works ok. A bit clunkier than AppleTV. My shield is flawless compared to Apple TV 4K... not clunky at all. As for CEC... I love it.. could not live without it and my spouse would shoot me because one of the reasons I got the go ahead for this system was "and we can go from 4 remotes to 1" What wasn't advertised is that the XMC-2 HDMI switching speed is now quicker than I'm used to, by about 5-6 seconds. Switching to the TV4K used to take 16 seconds and now it's less than 11 seconds. Switching from/to any other device used to take about 12 seconds and now it's less than 8 seconds. I guess this might be due to quicker locks onto the video signal, right? 11 seconds? Mine takes 1 or less, unless we're talking about something else. |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on May 1, 2022 23:17:08 GMT -5
My shield is flawless compared to Apple TV 4K... not clunky at all. As for CEC... I love it.. could not live without it and my spouse would shoot me because one of the reasons I got the go ahead for this system was "and we can go from 4 remotes to 1" ATV4K has that irritating bug w the XMC2 when Emotiva changed the input button to refresh when you push the same input as what you are currently on. So for whatever reason the HDMI/CEC input change works with everything else except for ATV4K as you know…the multiple refreshes rendering the home button function super annoying. Luckily I still have the Harmony remote so I can turn off CEC / input change and still use one remote. Not counting on a firmware update to fix the ATV4K problem. And yes, the latest Dirac…wow, the sound is beyond ridiculous. Better than any previous Dirac or other room correction. I’m actually curious how DLBC can improve on this. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 2, 2022 0:20:26 GMT -5
Switching to the TV4K used to take 16 seconds and now it's less than 11 seconds. Switching from/to any other device used to take about 12 seconds and now it's less than 8 seconds. 11 seconds? Mine takes 1 or less, unless we're talking about something else. Switching from one HDMI input to another on the XMC-2. The total time from button press to next input with picture with sound. The display plays a part in how long it takes. When I used a projector it took less time than my current display, a Sony 950G. With the Sony it can take a couple seconds less just by turning off the Sony Bravia CEC stuff, so that takes it from 8 seconds to 6 seconds (I just now timed it to find out), but I keep forgetting to disable these each time the Sony needs a factory reset when it won't display a picture, which happens every couple months or so. But since I don't consider HDMI switching time a priority, I simply don't bother to remember. However, 33% less time is a very big difference from just using a better HDMI cable even though it's more than twice the length. |
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Post by hsamwel on May 2, 2022 3:34:57 GMT -5
I have the 2019 Shield Pro and have used it together with both AppleTV 4k versions. No issue with them.. The latest firmware for Shield even got Andriod 11 and new setup options for completely turning off CEC. Which probably may be the culprit for you. Android 11 does also support in OS handling of changing frame rates. So I’m in hope for some future updates with global content frame rate matching as AppleTV has. Other than that Shield works ok. A bit clunkier than AppleTV. Still has some sync issues with Dolby Vision. RMC-1 does not always report Dolby Vision even though my TV says it recieves it.. Sometimes it will not get Atmos. Not having frame rate matching makes it useless now though. I’m forcing each app to 23.976 now but it really sucks when the content isn’t that.. Kodi as an App for the Shield does frame rate matching perfectly for all your mkv etc The shield will do frame rate matching flawlessly for all other Apps (BBC iPlayer, Disney plus, Netflix etc) by installing a 3rd party App ( auto refresh rate (on the Google store ) and configuring it (https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/297663/auto-refresh-rate-tool-google-play/ ) for each of your Apps to a specific frame rate on starting the App (best to use 50Hz for BBC, 23.976 for Netflix etc) and also for each App whether to auto-refresh rate change (most Apps) or not (disable this for Kodi as Kodi does it better) I just improved your life! Yes, I know Kodi does. However I don’t use it for locally stored files. Just streaming apps. I tried setup Shield to automatically change with the Refresh rate app. But it seems not to work as seemlessly as AppleTV. It didn’t work every time. For example got sound delay with one I tested which had 25 fps.. The picture got distorted with HBO Max on one I tested. Locking the frame rate to 23.976 however works every time. The bad being every time I view anything not having this. AppleTV on the other hand never fails anything. Simply just works, syncs correctly, Emotiva seems to have no issues with it. In my setup anyway. |
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Post by doc1963 on May 2, 2022 3:59:36 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds As for CEC... I love it.. could not live without it and my spouse would shoot me because one of the reasons I got the go ahead for this system was "and we can go from 4 remotes to 1" I have used both in my system connected to my RMC-1L without issue, but only because CEC is entirely disabled (by defeating HDMI pin 13) at each source and CEC "control" is not used. As others here have already alluded, the shortcomings of CEC inter-device communication is the culprit at play with your particular issue. Particularly, CEC based input switching. I'm assuming that you have CEC fully enabled and have your G3P set to perform CEC based input switching. If so, it is important to understand that "input switching" via CEC is based upon +5v signal detection when a device is powered on. When this +5v signal is detected at the HDMI input, the CEC controller (which is always the sink device [aka - your display]) sends a signal to switch to the newly activated HDMI input upon which your processor will respond. In a logical world, this should work. In the real world, it often doesn't and here's why... Neither the AppleTV nor the Nvidia Shield drop the +5v signaling while in standby. Therefore, CEC never sees them as powering on or off and auto input switching, as designed, will often fail as a result of this design. The AppleTV tends to make matters worse by constantly enumerating the CEC bus with "wake up" pings and requests for input priority. Unfortunately, Apple has yet to put enough granularity within their own CEC "user" settings to override any of this behavior. The only way to make the AppleTV behave itself on a CEC network (where it is not the only device of its type) is to remove it entirely from the CEC bus by using a CEC-less HDMI adapter at its output. This alone, however, does not address the problem with its constant "+5v" signaling and won't entirely cure your problem. Unfortunately, in your particular use case, you will likely never get these two devices to play nicely together on a CEC "controlled" HDMI chain. HDFury has the only HDMI switches on the market that can successfully pull off "automatic" HDMI input switching with these two devices connected and CEC still fully active. They were able to do this by rethinking the concept of how auto-switching should work and then reinventing the wheel. The HDFury Vertex2 (and more recently, the VRRoom) looks for active video signaling on the TMDS clock channels (rather than just a +5v signal) to know when to perform an automatic input switch. As a Vertex2 owner (used as a "purpose" tool in a separate system), I can verify that this concept works as intended and should have been how HDMI.org designed CEC switching to work from the start. In your situation, you'll probably have to make a choice between one of these three options. First, keep CEC control and choose between using only the AppleTV or the Nvidia Shield. Second, keep CEC control and both the AppleTV and the Shield, but remove one entirely from the CEC bus (manually switching inputs to/from that device). Or, third, ditch CEC "control" altogether and use a good universal remote similar to a Harmony (but good luck with that concept right now). Now, to respond to the issues you describe regarding your AppleTV... If you have your AppleTV configured to give you the best possible performance from all content, you should have the video output options set to "4K 60Hz SDR" with both "Match Range" and "Match Frame" enabled. If you do, then those momentary "bonks" (as those blackouts are fondly known as) are perfectly normal. You will experience a "bonk" any time a signal renegotiation (handshake) takes place. So, if your are watching a movie via iTunes or something on Disney+, odds are your that your signal is 4K 24Hz and is likely HDR-10 or Dolby Vision. But since your Home screen is 4K 60Hz SDR, you will experience a "bonk" as the you exit the movie and enter the Home screen simply because you are changing both the frame rate and the colorspace. This behavior is normal, regardless of the source device, because a re-sync must take place when parameters change and your display must react. If you are not seeing this from your Shield, it's likely because you are "signal locked". When left at defaulted settings, everything is being sent from the Shield using the same frame rate and colorspace. At the OS level. the Shield cannot do automatic framerate matching (yet) and, by default, colorspace matching is disabled. If all things were equal, you'd see the same identical "bonk" behavior from the Shield. There's no getting around this. If the "bonks" bother you, you can also set the AppleTV to always use the same frame rate and the same colorspace for all content. Just turn off both of the "Match" settings and set your resolution to always be 4K60 and your choice of dynamic range (SDR, HDR or Dolby Vision). By doing this, your AppleTV will never "bonk" again, but it also won't give you the most accurate delivery of every source. You've gotta pick your own poison here. Hope this helps... |
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Post by hsamwel on May 2, 2022 4:17:40 GMT -5
I have the 2019 Shield Pro and have used it together with both AppleTV 4k versions. No issue with them.. The latest firmware for Shield even got Andriod 11 and new setup options for completely turning off CEC. Which probably may be the culprit for you. Android 11 does also support in OS handling of changing frame rates. So I’m in hope for some future updates with global content frame rate matching as AppleTV has. Other than that Shield works ok. A bit clunkier than AppleTV. My shield is flawless compared to Apple TV 4K... not clunky at all. As for CEC... I love it.. could not live without it and my spouse would shoot me because one of the reasons I got the go ahead for this system was "and we can go from 4 remotes to 1" What wasn't advertised is that the XMC-2 HDMI switching speed is now quicker than I'm used to, by about 5-6 seconds. Switching to the TV4K used to take 16 seconds and now it's less than 11 seconds. Switching from/to any other device used to take about 12 seconds and now it's less than 8 seconds. I guess this might be due to quicker locks onto the video signal, right? 11 seconds? Mine takes 1 or less, unless we're talking about something else. I would rather use some type of multi remote than rely on CEC. My Harmony works for me. What issues do you have with AppleTV? I have issues with Dolby Vision not being reported correctly on the RMC. Having to resync iit several times then sometimes RMC show Dolby Vision. But my TV says it gets Dolby Vision. No global frame rate matching which work seemlessly. I can’t stand stuttering. I know some aren’t bothered with this. But I can’t watch anything that stutters. Otherwise it’s the same difference between AppleTV and Shield as with iPhone and Android phones. Android has more detailed settings. Many times too much stuff you don’t need making the settings cluttered. Apple are sometimes too careful. Not letting users change some things they should be allowed to. I have used both. When I stopped tinkering and just used them for their main purpose I noticed how much more simple and stable Apple devices are. Those that designed it thought it would be used by actual users. Not just changing the look and feel of everything. Kid stuff really. But it can be that later Android versions are better? 11 or 12 maybe works better? Note, Apple aren’t perfect either. But for me they ”simply works” in a better way than Android. One thing I like is the lifespan of an IOS/iPadOS.. Android devices usually drops their support one year after the unit gets released. Apple keeps them updated for several years.. I still use iPad Pro 2017 which work flawlessly other than the battery is starting to get worse. At work I have an iPhone X which I guess isn’t much newer.. They both still get the latest updates. Works as they always did. Can’t say the same for my Andoid devices. |
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Post by doc1963 on May 2, 2022 4:25:54 GMT -5
Kodi as an App for the Shield does frame rate matching perfectly for all your mkv etc The shield will do frame rate matching flawlessly for all other Apps (BBC iPlayer, Disney plus, Netflix etc) by installing a 3rd party App ( auto refresh rate (on the Google store ) and configuring it (https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/297663/auto-refresh-rate-tool-google-play/ ) for each of your Apps to a specific frame rate on starting the App (best to use 50Hz for BBC, 23.976 for Netflix etc) and also for each App whether to auto-refresh rate change (most Apps) or not (disable this for Kodi as Kodi does it better) I just improved your life! Yes, I know Kodi does. However I don’t use it for locally stored files. Just streaming apps. I tried setup Shield to automatically change with the Refresh rate app. But it seems not to work as seemlessly as AppleTV. It didn’t work every time. For example got sound delay with one I tested which had 25 fps.. The picture got distorted with HBO Max on one I tested. Locking the frame rate to 23.976 however works every time. The bad being every time I view anything not having this. AppleTV on the other hand never fails anything. Simply just works, syncs correctly, Emotiva seems to have no issues with it. In my setup anyway. FWIW, I could never use the Refresh Rate app either. It worked for Netflix, but that's about it. It caused HDCP errors or crashed the app on just about everything else (Prime, Disney+, Vudu, etc...). Since I now use a different solution for local media playback, I don't need my Shield anymore and, like you, prefer my ATV4K for streaming. Ultimately, I hope to finally get away from an outboard streaming box altogether and just use my TV's internal apps... |
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Post by hsamwel on May 2, 2022 4:28:41 GMT -5
Anyone running an Apple TV4K previous generation (more than a year old) and s Nvidia Shield 2019 (round one) in teh same setup? If I connect the Apple TV 4K, the Shield will not start up at all. Cannot connect to it, even using the remote app. Also on the Apple TV 4K when I press the back or Home button. the svreen blanks and sound drops for about 2-4 seconds As for CEC... I love it.. could not live without it and my spouse would shoot me because one of the reasons I got the go ahead for this system was "and we can go from 4 remotes to 1" I have used both in my system connected to my RMC-1L without issue, but only because CEC is entirely disabled (by defeating HDMI pin 13) at each source. As others here have alluded, the shortcomings of CEC inter-device communication is the culprit at play with your particular issue. Particularly, CEC based input switching. I'm assuming that you have CEC fully enabled and have your G3P set to perform CEC based input switching. If so, it is important to understand that "input switching" via CEC is based upon +5v signal detection when a device is powered on. When a +5v signal is detected at the HDMI input when a source device is powered up, the CEC controller (of which, there can be only one and is always your sink device [display]) sends a signal to switch to the newly activated HDMI input. In a logical world, this should work. In the real world, it often doesn't and here's why... Neither the AppleTV or the Nvidia Shield drop the +5v signaling while in standby. Therefore, CEC never sees them as powering on or off and auto input switching, as designed, will also fail by design. The AppleTV will make matters worse by constantly enumerating the CEC bus with "wake up" pings and requests for input priority. Unfortunately, Apple has not put enough granularity within their own CEC "user" settings to override any of this behavior. The only way to make the AppleTV behave itself on a CEC network (where it is not the only device of its type) is to remove it entirely from the CEC bus by using a CEC-less HDMI adapter. Unfortunately, in your particular use case, you will never get these two devices to play nicely together on a CEC controlled HDMI chain. HDFury has the only HDMI switches on the market that can pull of successful "automatic" HDMI input switching of these two devices with CEC fully active. They were able to do this by rethinking the concept and reinventing the wheel. The HDFury Vertex2 (and more recently, the VRRoom) looks for active video signaling on the TMDS channels rather than just a +5v signal to know when to perform an automatic input switch. As a Vertex2 owner (used as a "purpose" tool in a separate system), I can verify that this works as intended and should have been how HDMI.org designed CEC to work from the start. In your situation, you'll probably have to make a choice between one of three options. First, keep CEC control and choose between using only the AppleTV or the Nvidia Shield. Second, keep CEC control and both the AppleTV and the Shield, but remove one entirely from the CEC bus (manually switching inputs). Or, third, ditch CEC altogether and use a good universal remote similar to a Harmony (but good luck with that concept right now). Now, to respond to the issues you describe regarding your AppleTV... If you have your AppleTV configured to give your the best possible performance from all content, you should have the video output options set to "4K60 SDR" with both "Match Range" and "Match Frame" enabled. If you do, then those momentary "bonks" (as the blackouts are fondly known as) are perfectly normal. You will experience a "bonk" any time a signal renegotiation (handshake) takes place. So, if your are watching a movie via iTunes or something on Disney+, odds are your that your signal is 4K24 and is likely HDR-10 or Dolby Vision. But since your Home screen is 4K60 SDR, you will experience a "bonk" as the you exit the movie and enter the Home screen simply because you are changing both the frame rate and the colorspace. This behavior is normal regardless of source device. If you are not seeing this from your Shield, it's because you are "signal locked". Everything is being sent using the same frame rate and colorspace. At the OS level. the Shield cannot do automatic framerate matching (yet) and, by default, colorspace matching is disabled. If all things were equal, you'd see the same identical "bonk" behavior from the Shield. There's no getting around this. If the "bonks" bother you, you can also set the AppleTV to always use the same frame rate and the same colorspace for all content. Just turn off both of the "Match" settings and set your resolution to always be 4K60 and your choice of dynamic range (SDR, HDR or Dolby Vision). By doing this, your AppleTV will never "bonk" again, but it also won't give you the most accurate delivery of every source. You've gotta pick your own poison here. Hope this helps... Just a note Doc.. The latest firmware for Shield has an option to fully turn off CEC. Or so they say anyway. Haven’t measured it though. But I have not had any issues with having both Shield and AppleTV in my setup. Although I hace CEC turned off on all devices. Even used together with switching inputs on RMC has never given me any issues. |
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Post by hsamwel on May 2, 2022 4:33:13 GMT -5
Yes, I know Kodi does. However I don’t use it for locally stored files. Just streaming apps. I tried setup Shield to automatically change with the Refresh rate app. But it seems not to work as seemlessly as AppleTV. It didn’t work every time. For example got sound delay with one I tested which had 25 fps.. The picture got distorted with HBO Max on one I tested. Locking the frame rate to 23.976 however works every time. The bad being every time I view anything not having this. AppleTV on the other hand never fails anything. Simply just works, syncs correctly, Emotiva seems to have no issues with it. In my setup anyway. FWIW, I could never use the Refresh Rate app either. It worked for Netflix, but that's about it. It caused HDCP errors or crashed the app on just about everything else (Prime, Disney+, Vudu, etc...). Since I now use a different solution for local media playback, I don't need my Shield anymore and, like you, prefer my ATV4K for streaming. Ultimately, I hope to finally get away from an outboard streaming box altogether and just use my TV's internal apps... Good luck with the automatic frame rate matching of the internal apps.. Andoid 11 is the first OS version supporting this feature so this may become fixed in the future.. One can hope! |
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Post by doc1963 on May 2, 2022 4:57:48 GMT -5
Just a note Doc.. The latest firmware for Shield has an option to fully turn off CEC. Or so they say anyway. Haven’t measured it though. But I have not had any issues with having both Shield and AppleTV in my setup. Although I hace CEC turned off on all devices. Even used together with switching inputs on RMC has never given me any issues. Yep, I saw that… but since the newest “Shield Experience” update pretty much ruined “my” Shield experience, I retired it altogether. And I agree, switching inputs on every device connected to my RMC-1L is reliable and pretty much flawless. But again, I’m also not using CEC or relying upon CEC to perform the input switching. I use a Harmony Elite for system wide control. I do have CEC enabled in my RMC-1L, but only to receive HDMI-ARC signaling from my LG display. All CEC control functions within my RMC are disabled and I use CEC-less HDMI adapters at the outputs of every source device connected to my RMC-1L. So, in my system, CEC traffic does not exist other than between my display and G3P and for the purpose of HDMI-ARC only…  |
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Post by doc1963 on May 2, 2022 5:10:44 GMT -5
FWIW, I could never use the Refresh Rate app either. It worked for Netflix, but that's about it. It caused HDCP errors or crashed the app on just about everything else (Prime, Disney+, Vudu, etc...). Since I now use a different solution for local media playback, I don't need my Shield anymore and, like you, prefer my ATV4K for streaming. Ultimately, I hope to finally get away from an outboard streaming box altogether and just use my TV's internal apps... Good luck with the automatic frame rate matching of the internal apps.. Andoid 11 is the first OS version supporting this feature so this may become fixed in the future.. One can hope! True, but fortunately my display does a good job with frame interpolation on most of the content that I stream using the internal apps. The likelihood of me getting rid of my ATV4K altogether would depend on how much better these SmartTV platforms get and how much processing prowess they put into them. But I have to say that with each new generation, they continue to improve… |
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