AntonP
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RMC-1
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Post by AntonP on May 2, 2022 11:13:25 GMT -5
Faced the following issues with the RMC-1:
- sometimes there is a distorted sound from the rear speakers (maybe others, but I paid attention to the rear), it seems that the equalization does not work. Turning the processor off and on again helps.
- the processor took a very long time to boot, and sometimes it simply refused to do it. Reset to factory settings helped. but the bug itself is very unpleasant, I thought that the processor had died.
- when setting up the processor, somehow the power button blinked yellow-blue and the processor did not respond to the remote control and buttons. Turning off helped, but the sediment remained.
What could these problems be? Is this a marriage? Firmware latest 2.5.
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Post by marcl on May 2, 2022 11:50:36 GMT -5
Faced the following issues with the RMC-1: - sometimes there is a distorted sound from the rear speakers (maybe others, but I paid attention to the rear), it seems that the equalization does not work. Turning the processor off and on again helps. - the processor took a very long time to boot, and sometimes it simply refused to do it. Reset to factory settings helped. but the bug itself is very unpleasant, I thought that the processor had died. - when setting up the processor, somehow the power button blinked yellow-blue and the processor did not respond to the remote control and buttons. Turning off helped, but the sediment remained. What could these problems be? Is this a marriage? Firmware latest 2.5. Many of us have seen all of these issues from time to time. The only solution is to restart the processor. Sometimes it's necessary to turn off the power switch and let it sit for a few minutes. Yes, it's really annoying. Not sure if Emotiva has an idea of the causes or solutions. We're all waiting for the next big firmware release to find out. |
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on May 2, 2022 12:27:29 GMT -5
Faced the following issues with the RMC-1: - sometimes there is a distorted sound from the rear speakers (maybe others, but I paid attention to the rear), it seems that the equalization does not work. Turning the processor off and on again helps. - the processor took a very long time to boot, and sometimes it simply refused to do it. Reset to factory settings helped. but the bug itself is very unpleasant, I thought that the processor had died. - when setting up the processor, somehow the power button blinked yellow-blue and the processor did not respond to the remote control and buttons. Turning off helped, but the sediment remained. What could these problems be? Is this a marriage? Firmware latest 2.5. Many of us have seen all of these issues from time to time. The only solution is to restart the processor. Sometimes it's necessary to turn off the power switch and let it sit for a few minutes. Yes, it's really annoying. Not sure if Emotiva has an idea of the causes or solutions. We're all waiting for the next big firmware release to find out. The distorted / digitized sound. I’ve had success by changing audio modes and back or exiting the show and going back in. I don’t think I ever had to reboot. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 2, 2022 12:39:39 GMT -5
… - when setting up the processor, somehow the power button blinked yellow-blue and the processor did not respond to the remote control and buttons. Turning off helped, but the sediment remained. ... Normally flashing between blue and amber means that the Main Zone of the processor is off, but Zone 2 is still on, however at that point it should still respond to remote power on/off, or the power button, Zone 2 remote power off as well. |
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Post by jasonf on May 2, 2022 16:46:37 GMT -5
Many of us have seen all of these issues from time to time. The only solution is to restart the processor. Sometimes it's necessary to turn off the power switch and let it sit for a few minutes. Yes, it's really annoying. Not sure if Emotiva has an idea of the causes or solutions. We're all waiting for the next big firmware release to find out. The distorted / digitized sound. I’ve had success by changing audio modes and back or exiting the show and going back in. I don’t think I ever had to reboot. This usually happens to me right after switching sources. Sometimes switching sources again fixes it -- sometimes I have to reboot the unit. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 2, 2022 17:59:03 GMT -5
For you TiVo owners.
FW2.5, XMC-2, TiVo EDGE, Sony 950G TV, Xfinity.
I've had problems with what I call "digital static" and "digital tones" when using TiVo skip, fast forward & rewind features. The noises only happen if the audio setting is set to Dolby Audio in the TiVo. The noises have been exaggerated or reduced a little with different firmware versions, however, . . . .
This past weekend I changed the TiVo's resolution setting from Auto-(4K) to being locked onto 720P only, and now the noises are all but totally gone. Instead of happening often and for 2-3 seconds, they now happen rarely and are only tiny blips of noise.
Xfinity no longer passes the signal from the few networks that broadcast 1080i through to the end user, but instead provides all channels in 720P, including all the SD channels. So I figured that locking on to 720P would be no harm to the video, but I was curious to find out if it would affect the noise problem, which it has. So one more thing improved with no apparent downside.
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Post by msimanyi on May 2, 2022 18:44:14 GMT -5
ttocs This is getting wildly off-topic, but I happened to run into a problem with my DirecTV DVR and due to an array of circumstances, I'm evaluating DirecTV Stream service. It's a LOT less per month and the claim is the picture quality and sound are better than the satellite version, and is supposedly the best of all the streaming services. All 1088i and 720 feeds are upsampled to 1080p. It's free to trial for 5 days, and depending on which plan you sign up for it's about $70 or $90 per month. For $5 extra per month you can get a local box that is the interface for the service, or you can buy the box outright for $120 (and I think $49 refurbished.) I just ordered one to see if I like it better than using the app in my AppleTV. If you're not totally thrilled with your service and are willing to give up the TIVO, I think DTV Stream is worth a look. It's not all a giant win, but the picture quality *is* better and the sound is likely at least as good as DTV's satellite service. Here are the negatives I've found so far: - Much smaller buffer for live shows you pause. On Satellite, I think the buffer is a couple hours. It's at least 90 minutes. On Stream it's only a few minutes.
- Using the AppleTV (ATV) app, I don't see any way to view upcoming scheduled recordings.
- Changing channels, it can take 30 seconds or more for the ATV app to display full resolution. My broadband service is 600 Mbit, so it's not due to a broadband speed bottleneck and I have buffer bloat options configured. Not sure if this is the app causing the problem or it's the nature of Stream service, which is why I ordered their box (called Osprey.)
- Setting a series to record isn't as simple. It's not particularly difficult, but it's a couple extra clicks.
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 2, 2022 19:16:22 GMT -5
If you're not totally thrilled with your service and are willing to give up the TIVO, I think DTV Stream is worth a look. It's not all a giant win, but the picture quality *is* better and the sound is likely at least as good as DTV's satellite service. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it. The fact that the TiVo box now only puts out 720P doesn't change the look of the final picture on the tv, so nothing's been lost in the transaction. The TiVo is relieved from thinking about resolution and the tv doesn't seem to care either way. But the TiVo features are the only reason I stay with TiVo, including the six LIVE tuners are a must so I can bop around from channel to channel at will without recording, Instant Replay and other skipping features I use incessantly. I'm not happy with TiVo as a company, but they've got the best features of any box I know of. I really tried to like the Xfinity box and actually kept it for a couple years while paying for it, but finally gave it back. For the very few "important" shows I want to watch in better quality I can use the TV4K, like F1TV for example. So I stick with TiVo and hope that a future G3P firmware will come along that fixes the noises altogether. But for now, the noises are all but gone, plus the video stabilizes instantly when using Instant Replay. The less brain power each device needs to use, the better. |
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Post by msimanyi on May 2, 2022 19:22:33 GMT -5
Sounds like you're dialed in with TIVO, so I'd stick with it... especially if the resolution works for you. I don't think there are multiple tuners to be able to bounce around like that on the Stream service, but I do that from time to time on the Satellite service. I'm limited to two tuners there, but I understand the appeal. (I'm thinking on Stream, one could record all the shows - since I don't believe there's a limit to the number of shows recording simultaneously - then just jump between them. It's not quite as elegant a solution.)
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Post by JKCashin on May 2, 2022 21:18:30 GMT -5
11 seconds? Mine takes 1 or less, unless we're talking about something else. Switching from one HDMI input to another on the XMC-2. The total time from button press to next input with picture with sound. The display plays a part in how long it takes. When I used a projector it took less time than my current display, a Sony 950G. With the Sony it can take a couple seconds less just by turning off the Sony Bravia CEC stuff, so that takes it from 8 seconds to 6 seconds (I just now timed it to find out), but I keep forgetting to disable these each time the Sony needs a factory reset when it won't display a picture, which happens every couple months or so. But since I don't consider HDMI switching time a priority, I simply don't bother to remember. However, 33% less time is a very big difference from just using a better HDMI cable even though it's more than twice the length. That's interesting Okay I will have to test it again just to see how quick it is. I'm pretty sure mine can't be as little as one second if you are experiencing that kind of delay. I'll get back to you over in the next couple of days |
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Post by JKCashin on May 2, 2022 21:26:56 GMT -5
<Long, awesome response clipped for space> Hope this helps... Wow.... thank you for that detailed response! Here's a question.... if I got one of those HDFury thingies, would that solve my issues a little? |
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AntonP
Minor Hero
RMC-1
Posts: 75
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Post by AntonP on May 2, 2022 22:54:11 GMT -5
Many of us have seen all of these issues from time to time. The only solution is to restart the processor. Sometimes it's necessary to turn off the power switch and let it sit for a few minutes. Yes, it's really annoying. Not sure if Emotiva has an idea of the causes or solutions. We're all waiting for the next big firmware release to find out. The distorted / digitized sound. I’ve had success by changing audio modes and back or exiting the show and going back in. I don’t think I ever had to reboot. Thank you, will try to change audio modes next time |
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doc1963
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Post by doc1963 on May 3, 2022 10:39:44 GMT -5
<Long, awesome response clipped for space> Hope this helps... Wow.... thank you for that detailed response! Here's a question.... if I got one of those HDFury thingies, would that solve my issues a little? Can the Vertex2 "auto-switch" between the ATV4K and the Nvidia Shield using its own "on sense" technology...? Yes, it absolutely can. But could this be used in conjunction with CEC "Control" to keep you down to using just one remote to govern the entire system...? Quite honestly, I don't know and I can't recommend that you spend $500 (US) to find out. The Vertex (and VRRoom) can pass through CEC commands from the connected devices, but the sink (your display) is always the CEC controller and has full control over the network map. The Vertex/VRRoom can publish itself on the CEC network as either a " switcher" or as an " audio processor". Both modes function differently in regards to audio extraction. As a switcher, it cannot extract audio from the HDMI-ARC/eARC channels. As an Audio Processor, it can extract audio from ARC/eARC and pass it through to your processor using its own HDMI Audio Out port. However, when used in the "audio processor" mode, your XMC/RMC cannot be connected directly to the TV as there can be only ONE audio processor in the HDMI/CEC chain. Using it in the audio processor mode, it is best to use the Vertex as the main HDMI hub connecting all sources to its HDMI inputs and then using its discrete HDMI audio output to send the bitstreamed audio back to your RMC/XMC. None of the HDFury product "process" the audio in any way. They simply strip the audio away from the video and pass it along to your connected AVP, AVR or sound bar. Below is a photo of how the Vertex2 is connected in "my" system when used in the "audio processor" mode...  Please note that by configuring it this way, the OSD and menu system of my RMC-1 is out of play. Video output from my RMC-1 is not shown at all. Since the Vertex can generate it's own OSD showing all of the important video signal information, that's not so much of an issue. And since I can see the display on my RMC-1L, that's not so much of an issue either. However, accessing the menu system of my RMC-1L can only be achieved at the unit itself. That can be quite cumbersome. There are workarounds, like connecting your XMC/RMC to one of the Vertex HDMI inputs while still using the XMC/RMC as an HDMI switch, but that defeats "some" of the benefits of using the Vertex in the first place. Especially if HDMI "connectivity" through your G3P is the source of your problems. The HDFury products are powerful tools, but the "need" should always outweigh the cost. They are expensive solutions and can be exhaustive to properly set up. In some cases, they can be "plug and play", but in most cases, they are not. Below is an example of how my Vertex2 "can" solve a problem in "my" system. For some background of this problem, when my RMC-1L is connected to my LG CX display, I cannot receive Atmos audio from the internal Netflix app of my LG CX. It does not "see" my RMC-1L as "Atmos capable" and only sends 5.1 audio (Atmos is never shown as the provided audio, only 5.1 is shown). All the other apps can send Atmos just fine, but not Netflix. Additionally, Netflix does not have this issue with my Marantz AV8805. It shows and sends Atmos to my 8805 without question or issue. Removing my RMC-1L from the HDMI video chain and introducing the Vertex2 set up as the "audio processor" in the chain entirely fixes the issue. Netflix "sees" that the RMC-1 is "Atmos capable" and sends it. My RMC-1L "sees" Atmos via DD+ and decodes it. See the images below...   So, yes, the HDFury products "can" be problem solvers, but is the problem worth the cost...? For "my" problem... No, as I have other means to achieve Atmos from Netflix. For your problem, my honest answer is also no simply because you can achieve the same "one remote" results using a $50 Sofabaton U1. It isn't as elegant as a Harmony solution, and is a bit kludgy to program, but for $50 (versus $500), it's certainly worth a try. Sofabaton has also just recently introduced the "X1" which has the potential to work much like a Harmony does. However, the software that drives the X1 system is still in its infancy and apparently has a long way to go. But eventually, the X1 might also be something worth looking at. As for CEC being used as a "control" solution in a semi-complex or complex system, I don't ever see that happening. First, the entire concept needs some re-thinking. Then, there needs to be some hard rules established and enforced. Does anyone think "that" will happen...? Wait, I think I hear crickets...  Anyway, sorry for the longwinded response and hopefully you see where I'm coming from. While I do think that the HDFury products are very powerful tools (and "might" work for you), I cannot recommend, with a clear conscience, that you spend the money on something so elaborate, and so complex, to solve a problem that already has a much simpler (and more cost effective) solution. Doing so would be like me recommending a hand grenade to solve a problem with an ant hill. Good luck to you and hope this helps...  |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on May 3, 2022 10:58:15 GMT -5
The "blink blue/yellow indicates that Zone 2 is turned on...
which also means that the unit will remain in the equivalent of high-power standby to "service" Zone 2 (if it wasn't already in high-power standby anyway).
Faced the following issues with the RMC-1: - sometimes there is a distorted sound from the rear speakers (maybe others, but I paid attention to the rear), it seems that the equalization does not work. Turning the processor off and on again helps. - the processor took a very long time to boot, and sometimes it simply refused to do it. Reset to factory settings helped. but the bug itself is very unpleasant, I thought that the processor had died. - when setting up the processor, somehow the power button blinked yellow-blue and the processor did not respond to the remote control and buttons. Turning off helped, but the sediment remained. What could these problems be? Is this a marriage? Firmware latest 2.5. |
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AntonP
Minor Hero
RMC-1
Posts: 75
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Post by AntonP on May 3, 2022 12:25:07 GMT -5
But i dont use Zone 2 at all. Maybe there was some wrong command from IR.
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 3, 2022 14:59:01 GMT -5
But i dont use Zone 2 at all. Maybe there was some wrong command from IR. I’ve never had a problem with the Zone 2 IR or IP commands, you probably just turned it on accidentally, but now you know what the blue/amber flash means. You also mentioned that it happened while you were in ‘Setup’, it is possible to turn on Zone 2 from there:  |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 3, 2022 16:46:54 GMT -5
But i dont use Zone 2 at all. Maybe there was some wrong command from IR. I’ve never had a problem with the Zone 2 IR or IP commands, you probably just turned it on accidentally, but now you know what the blue/amber flash means. You also mentioned that it happened while you were in ‘Setup’, it is possible to turn on Zone 2 from there: I am one who accidentally turned on Zone 2 one time. Early one morning I noticed the front panel power button emitting colors I was unfamiliar with, found out what it meant, and turned Zone 2 off. I will say that it was disturbing to see the flying saucer colors in the dimly lit room causing so many thoughts of what could be wrong! |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 3, 2022 18:57:20 GMT -5
I’ve never had a problem with the Zone 2 IR or IP commands, you probably just turned it on accidentally, but now you know what the blue/amber flash means. You also mentioned that it happened while you were in ‘Setup’, it is possible to turn on Zone 2 from there: I am one who accidentally turned on Zone 2 one time. Early one morning I noticed the front panel power button emitting colors I was unfamiliar with, found out what it meant, and turned Zone 2 off. I will say that it was disturbing to see the flying saucer colors in the dimly lit room causing so many thoughts of what could be wrong! Yes, well if it's flashing Blue / Amber, then indeed Zone 2 is on ... BUT, if it's flashing Amber / Blue ... 😱 ... you're on 'double secret probation'! |
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AntonP
Minor Hero
RMC-1
Posts: 75
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Post by AntonP on May 4, 2022 1:23:09 GMT -5
I’ve never had a problem with the Zone 2 IR or IP commands, you probably just turned it on accidentally, but now you know what the blue/amber flash means. You also mentioned that it happened while you were in ‘Setup’, it is possible to turn on Zone 2 from there: <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> And what software is on screenshot? i tried different apps from apple store - none of them worked |
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Post by markc on May 4, 2022 3:37:53 GMT -5
I do not want to sound like a Fanboy here, but I read through this thread to see reactions to new Firmware before I do an update. I have been with Emotiva since the days of the DMC-1 and I still run my system with an MPS-1 amplifier that I hope never loses a channel or such. I used a Marantz processor a few years back when waiting for the original XMC-1 to release and prefer the sound of Emotiva processors. I have an XMC-2 running a 7.1.4 system and I use RTI automation. I put it in my rack, had to run Dirac several times to get the sound I like and it just runs. Occasionally I have to turn off the processor and unplug for a couple of minutes. Big Deal! I love the sound quality and it just runs my system well. I have a MiniDSP for my 2 subs and never have a problem! I do not understand all the "Issues" and bickering on this board. Maybe I have just been lucky with all the equipment I bought from Emotiva over the years! You have been lucky but for others not so much. Some days I am lucky too and my XMC-2 works perfectly! Other days? Not so much! That is why it is especially frustrating as I can't find a way to get it to work every time I want / need it to! |
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