RMC-1/RMC-1L/XMC-2 Owners Thread (Post Firmware v1.10)

[ttocs]

Levels you say?
Dolby Disc?
REW?
Which way is UP?
If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium

To keep it really simple to view, I just used LFE, SL, and SR channels. I leveled using XMC-2 Levels. SL and SR are Small, so BM is sent to the same sub providing LFE. Using the Dolby ATMOS Disc I played pink noise for the three channels and used REW's RTA to record and plot the results.

Then I used REW's Generator Pink Random Full Range on one computer, and used the same other computer still running RTA to record the results. It's really clear to see how they are different. REW is rock solid with 10dB difference between SL/SR and LFE, and falls between the Dolby higher and lower traces. Dolby Disc is double the difference.


I don't know what this Dolby Disc is designed to do at this point. I also don't know why the disparity amongst the tracks on the disc. Some play perfect, some play the LFE ultra hot, and one or two play LFE very low. I, don't, get, it.

For Levels, I'll stick with XMC-2 internal Levels and use REW SPL meter like usual. Maybe this still has something to do with the BMbug, dunno.

[NicS]

Jun 20, 2022 17:15:02 GMT -5 @brucelee said:

Strongly suspect the delay in firmware indicates that we will probably have to wait for the new HDMI 2.1 board - and pray that whatever software fix comes with it kills more bugs than it creates....  In fact the firmware update has taken so long that my RMC-1 would/will be the last piece in my signal chain to become HDMI 2.1 compliant.

This firmware update has been promised on a "it'll be ready in a few weeks" basis for nearly six months. As for the HDMI 2.1 board, nobody from Emotiva will own up to that even being on a time-line.

I'm not hoping for a flux-capacitor upgrade here. Just simply to have this processor behave as advertised. Maybe with a few sensible fixes. Maybe with the ability to set levels for DSD playback without having to manually adjust trims every time I play a 5.1 SACD.

[ttocs]

AudioHTIT marcl

I played the Dolby ATMOS disc in my OPPO BDP-105 and was a little shocked that it passed ATMOS. Anyway, I hooked up just the sub output to the sub, and SL out directly to the amp for SL, so this way the processor is not involved.

Same exact results as when using the XMC-2. So whatever is happening is encoded on the disc. It is, after all, a "Demo Disc", so maybe we're not supposed to take it so seriously. Maybe they want all that extra bass. Who knows?

[AudioHTIT]

Jun 20, 2022 20:50:50 GMT -5 NicS said:

Jun 20, 2022 17:15:02 GMT -5 @brucelee said:

Strongly suspect the delay in firmware indicates that we will probably have to wait for the new HDMI 2.1 board - and pray that whatever software fix comes with it kills more bugs than it creates....  In fact the firmware update has taken so long that my RMC-1 would/will be the last piece in my signal chain to become HDMI 2.1 compliant.

This firmware update has been promised on a "it'll be ready in a few weeks" basis for nearly six months. As for the HDMI 2.1 board, nobody from Emotiva will own up to that even being on a time-line.

I'm not hoping for a flux-capacitor upgrade here. Just simply to have this processor behave as advertised. Maybe with a few sensible fixes. Maybe with the ability to set levels for DSD playback without having to manually adjust trims every time I play a 5.1 SACD.

Actually, that’s the one thing that they’ve stated is next (for the G3P). I too think the new FW will coincide with its release, but I’m not speculating when that will be.

See Keith’s post here: emotivalounge.proboards.com/post/1092854/thread

[marcl]

Jun 20, 2022 22:52:22 GMT -5 ttocs said:

AudioHTIT marcl

I played the Dolby ATMOS disc in my OPPO BDP-105 and was a little shocked that it passed ATMOS. Anyway, I hooked up just the sub output to the sub, and SL out directly to the amp for SL, so this way the processor is not involved.

Same exact results as when using the XMC-2. So whatever is happening is encoded on the disc. It is, after all, a "Demo Disc", so maybe we're not supposed to take it so seriously. Maybe they want all that extra bass. Who knows?

Yeah I was thinking it's just a bug ... and then I thought, they made this disc 6 years ago and that was it.  Everybody is just using it but there's no new one.  So somebody screwed up.  I'm just lucky the 7.1.4 is actually very good.

[AudioHTIT]

Jun 20, 2022 22:52:22 GMT -5 ttocs said:

AudioHTIT marcl

I played the Dolby ATMOS disc in my OPPO BDP-105 and was a little shocked that it passed ATMOS. Anyway, I hooked up just the sub output to the sub, and SL out directly to the amp for SL, so this way the processor is not involved.

Same exact results as when using the XMC-2. So whatever is happening is encoded on the disc. It is, after all, a "Demo Disc", so maybe we're not supposed to take it so seriously. Maybe they want all that extra bass. Who knows?

Jun 21, 2022 1:05:00 GMT -5 marcl said:

Yeah I was thinking it's just a bug ... and then I thought, they made this disc 6 years ago and that was it.  Everybody is just using it but there's no new one.  So somebody screwed up.  I'm just lucky the 7.1.4 is actually very good.

So are these the files that are on your disks? These links still work, and point to Dolby, but they came off an archive page. These are what I play from a flash drive on my Oppo 203. This 7.1.4 gave the 13 dB LFE bump, running as external tones with double subs.

download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_9_1_6.mp4

[keithiegee]

So I’m not meant to level match speakers with the built in emotiva test tones?

[AntonP]

Why does the equalization fly off after every cold start? You have to manually change the equalization profile to another one and back after each such reboot.

[AudioHTIT]

Jun 21, 2022 3:56:29 GMT -5 keithiegee said:

So I’m not meant to level match speakers with the built in emotiva test tones?

To the contrary, I think this exercise has shown that the internal tones are an accurate way to level match.

[ttocs]

Jun 21, 2022 3:13:53 GMT -5 AudioHTIT said:

Jun 20, 2022 22:52:22 GMT -5 ttocs said:

AudioHTIT marcl

I played the Dolby ATMOS disc in my OPPO BDP-105 and was a little shocked that it passed ATMOS. Anyway, I hooked up just the sub output to the sub, and SL out directly to the amp for SL, so this way the processor is not involved.

Same exact results as when using the XMC-2. So whatever is happening is encoded on the disc. It is, after all, a "Demo Disc", so maybe we're not supposed to take it so seriously. Maybe they want all that extra bass. Who knows?

Jun 21, 2022 1:05:00 GMT -5 marcl said:

Yeah I was thinking it's just a bug ... and then I thought, they made this disc 6 years ago and that was it.  Everybody is just using it but there's no new one.  So somebody screwed up.  I'm just lucky the 7.1.4 is actually very good.

So are these the files that are on your disks? These links still work, and point to Dolby, but they came off an archive page. These are what I play from a flash drive on my Oppo 203. This 7.1.4 gave the 13 dB LFE bump, running as external tones with double subs.

download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_9_1_6.mp4

Yes, I believe so.

Here is the complete menu.

[marcl]

Jun 21, 2022 3:13:53 GMT -5 AudioHTIT said:

Jun 20, 2022 22:52:22 GMT -5 ttocs said:

AudioHTIT marcl

I played the Dolby ATMOS disc in my OPPO BDP-105 and was a little shocked that it passed ATMOS. Anyway, I hooked up just the sub output to the sub, and SL out directly to the amp for SL, so this way the processor is not involved.

Same exact results as when using the XMC-2. So whatever is happening is encoded on the disc. It is, after all, a "Demo Disc", so maybe we're not supposed to take it so seriously. Maybe they want all that extra bass. Who knows?

Jun 21, 2022 1:05:00 GMT -5 marcl said:

Yeah I was thinking it's just a bug ... and then I thought, they made this disc 6 years ago and that was it.  Everybody is just using it but there's no new one.  So somebody screwed up.  I'm just lucky the 7.1.4 is actually very good.

So are these the files that are on your disks? These links still work, and point to Dolby, but they came off an archive page. These are what I play from a flash drive on my Oppo 203. This 7.1.4 gave the 13 dB LFE bump, running as external tones with double subs.

download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_5_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_2.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_7_1_4.mp4
download.dolby.com/us/en/test-tones/dolby-test-tones_9_1_6.mp4

I'll download them and do a compare.  It's likely they're the same but maybe they have been fixed.

I think +13db is correct for the LFE if you have two subs connected to two separate outputs.

Edit:  ttocs  +  AudioHTIT  I downloaded the files and played them from a USB stick on my OPPO 205.   Pretty much the same results especially the strangely low LFE for the 5.1.2.  But no exaggerated LFE otherwise.

[ttocs]

Jun 21, 2022 6:18:15 GMT -5 AudioHTIT said:

Jun 21, 2022 3:56:29 GMT -5 keithiegee said:

So I’m not meant to level match speakers with the built in emotiva test tones?

To the contrary, I think this exercise has shown that the internal tones are an accurate way to level match.

Exactly!

The Emotiva Processor Levels work fine, as does REW - if - the correct ones are used. So, processor levels are the best/safest to use.

Using REW pink noise to set the levels is more work for little benefit, if any. What I do is set levels using XMC-2 Levels, then run REW sweeps to see if I want to adjust anything, which rarely happens. Looking at the sweep traces, if any are a problem with being higher/lower, it's easy to look at the graph and measure precisely by how much to adjust in processor levels.

Sweeps are much, much, more precise than pink noise.

[AudioHTIT]

Jun 21, 2022 8:52:03 GMT -5 ttocs said:

Jun 21, 2022 6:18:15 GMT -5 AudioHTIT said:

To the contrary, I think this exercise has shown that the internal tones are an accurate way to level match.

Exactly!

The Emotiva Processor Levels work fine, as does REW - if - the correct ones are used. So, processor levels are the best/safest to use.

Using REW pink noise to set the levels is more work for little benefit, if any. What I do is set levels using XMC-2 Levels, then run REW sweeps to see if I want to adjust anything, which rarely happens. Looking at the sweep traces, if any are a problem with being higher/lower, it's easy to look at the graph and measure precisely by how much to adjust in processor levels.

Sweeps are much, much, more precise than pink noise.

That’s an important point, not so much that you should always use sweeps (as many don’t want to or aren’t equipped for it), but rather how to make your Pink Noise measurements as accurate as possible. Because of the way any noise is generated, it’s essentially a moving target of random frequencies, and trying to get a single number from that moving target can lead to inaccuracies. There are a few things we can do to help make our Pink Noise measurements more accurate and repeatable (if your measurements aren’t repeatable, they may not be accurate). 

* Use a mic stand, or position your meter so that you don’t have to hold it, but so that you can still take a good reading from the meter or readout. Not holding your mic or meter will also make it more likely you can repeat your measurement (by putting it back in exactly the same place), less likely that your hand doesn’t add noise to the noise (by rubbing on the case), and that it doesn’t move while you take your measurements.
* For setting levels, put your mic, meter, or phone in the MLP (Main Listening Position).
* Take your measurements at a moderate level, 75 to 85 SPL dBC is a good range. While you can go lower, at some point background noise may influence your measurements, 60 db might be a good minimum. Too loud and distortion or resonance may influence your readings (not to mention you patience), 90 dB might be a good top end level.
* Use ‘C Weighting’. Weighting curves filter the output of the microphone and reduce frequencies at the extremes of the audible spectrum. C weighting filters the least of the common weighting scales (A, B, C), and is considered the standard for home theatre measurements.
* If you’re using a meter (mechanical or electronic), set the range so that the reading is in the upper/middle end of the scale, typically around zero, preferably above -10 dB. Not only is the meter more accurate in this part of its range, it’s also easier to take an accurate reading. Digital meters typically don’t have ranges.
* Use the ‘Slow’ function or mode, this reduces the erratic and quick movements of the meter or readout, and somewhat averages the reading over time. You might also consider using the ‘Max’ level if available, this captures the loudest sound encountered over the measurement period and holds it, if you choose to try this, I’d suggest increasing your measurement time.
* Setup your room similarly to how you normally watch or listen to your system. If you have a ladder out to change a light bulb put it away, if you normally have pillows arranged on your sofa put them out, etc.
* Keep your body out of the measurement path, and minimize your movements while taking measurements.
* Try to turn off anything that might make noise; HVAC, phones, clocks, washing machines.
* If you want to compare your measurements with past or future measurements, write them down, date them, and include any special notes (equipment changes, new furniture, etc.). A spreadsheet like marcl posted is a good example.

This list is nothing ‘official’ though many are common practices, others may have additional suggestions that escaped me here, but if you’re just getting started taking measurements, or haven’t considered some of these, maybe this will help you do a better job. 

Edit: Here are a couple of screen captures from the AudioTools SPL meters, showing some of the things mentioned above.

[ttocs]

Jun 21, 2022 11:58:00 GMT -5 AudioHTIT said:

Jun 21, 2022 8:52:03 GMT -5 ttocs said:

Exactly!

The Emotiva Processor Levels work fine, as does REW - if - the correct ones are used. So, processor levels are the best/safest to use.

Using REW pink noise to set the levels is more work for little benefit, if any. What I do is set levels using XMC-2 Levels, then run REW sweeps to see if I want to adjust anything, which rarely happens. Looking at the sweep traces, if any are a problem with being higher/lower, it's easy to look at the graph and measure precisely by how much to adjust in processor levels.

Sweeps are much, much, more precise than pink noise.

That’s an important point, not so much that you should always use sweeps (as many don’t want to or aren’t equipped for it), but rather how to make your Pink Noise measurements as accurate as possible. Because of the way any noise is generated, it’s essentially a moving target of random frequencies, and trying to get a single number from that moving target can lead to inaccuracies. There are a few things we can do can help make our Pink Noise measurements more accurate and repeatable (if your measurements aren’t repeatable, they may not be accurate). 

* Use a mic stand, or position your meter so that you don’t have to hold it, but so that you can still take a good reading from the meter or readout. Not holding your mic or meter will also make it more likely you can repeat your measurement (by putting it back in exactly the same place), less likely that your hand doesn’t add noise to the noise (by rubbing on the case), and that it doesn’t move while you take your measurements.
* For setting levels, put your mic, meter, or phone in the MLP (Main Listening Position).
* Take your measurements at a moderate level, 75 to 85 SPL dBC is a good range. While you can go lower, at some point background noise may influence your measurements, 60 db might be a good minimum. Too loud and distortion or resonance may influence your readings (not to mention you patience), 90 dB might be a good top end level.
* Use ‘C Weighting’. Weighting curves filter the output of the microphone and reduce frequencies at the extremes of the audible spectrum. C weighting filters the least of the common weighting scales (A, B, C), and is considered the standard for home theatre measurements.
* If your using a meter (mechanical or electronic), set the range so that the reading is in the upper/middle end of the scale, typically around zero, preferably above -10 dB. Not only is the meter more accurate in this part of its range, it’s also easier to take an accurate reading. Digital meters typically don’t have ranges.
* Use the ‘Slow’ function or mode, this reduces the erratic and quick movements of the meter or readout, and somewhat averages the reading over time. You might also consider using the ‘Max’ level if available, this captures the loudest sound encountered over the measurement period and holds it, if you choose to try this, I’d suggest increasing your measurement time.
* Setup your room similarly to how you normally watch or listen to your system. If you have a ladder out to change a light bulb put it away, if you normally have pillows arranged on your sofa put them out, etc.
* Keep your body out of the measurement path, and minimize your movements while taking measurements.
* Try to turn off anything that might make noise; HVAC, phones, clocks, washing machines.
* If you want to compare your measurements with past or future measurements, write them down, date them, and include any special notes (equipment changes, new furniture, etc.). A spreadsheet like marcl posted is a good example.

This list is nothing ‘official’ though many are common practices, others may have additional suggestions that escaped me here, but if you’re just getting started taking measurements, or haven’t consider some of these, maybe this will help you do a better job. 

Edit: Here are a couple of screen captures from the AudioTools SPL meters, showing some of the things mentioned above.

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<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>

These are all really EXCELLENT points! Please add them to the first posts of this thread and the Dirac thread.

[EmoBrent]

Brent here with Emotiva support. First, I will say that the next firmware is imminent, moreso than before, and I hope worth the wait. Beta code has had some major improvements in my setups at work and at home, and I hope the final release behaves the same. I know it has been a long time coming with some delays, and some of you have probably heard directly from me that "it's just a few weeks away" over the past few months. But we are close, and as someone who handles a lot of customer support for configuration issues, I am really looking forward to it.

All that to say, I think I recently stumbled upon a fix or partial solution for anyone who is experiencing ticks/pops/cracks with some HDMI sources, including Apple TV and NVidia Shield, likely others as well. I just came upon this yesterday, so I have only been able to test in a limited fashion, but it is a simple change in the settings of the processor, and it has made a significant difference. Here is the fix that I encourage any users to try who are having this issue, and this likely would only apply to firmware 2.4 or 2.5 machines but has not been tested on previous versions.


Tick/pop/crack possible fix:
For any of the HDMI inputs used in the XMC-2/RMC-1/L, navigate to Setup > Inputs > HDMI [#] > Lip Sync Delay, and set this to 100 mSec. Set the same delay of 100 mSec for any HDMI inputs with sources that are presenting this issue, and leave any others set to 0 mSec. You may experiment with values less than 100, as this is a fairly arbitrary number, but I found that values under approx. 50 may not work as well as a higher value to eliminate unwanted noise/ticks/pops.

If you set different delay values for different HDMI inputs, this fix will not help. For example, if you set one delay to 100 mSec and another input's delay to 99 mSec, you will get poor behavior when you toggle back and forth between these inputs. Any unused or unaffected HDMI inputs may be left at the default of 0 mSec and will not cause any issue if set to 0.

Altering the lip-sync value should not affect the audio-video sync, but it may help alleviate some of these noises. We are still working to track down why the lip-sync is not being applied as a lip-sync and why this setting might affect the pops/ticks. But this is the fix that we have found works in many cases where this noise is present on HDMI sources.

I encourage any to try this with HDMI sources that present ticks/pops/cracks. Feel free to reply here, but I may miss some feedback on this thread.

I would truly appreciate if anyone has had this issue and is able to improve it by setting some lip-sync delays, please send me a Direct Message on the forum boards. Any feedback will help us to better resolve this issue permanently. Thanks.

[audiosyndrome]

Big thanks Brent for the firmware status and HDMI (noise) advice. 👍👍

Russ

[sandbagger]

Jun 21, 2022 13:24:20 GMT -5 EmoBrent said:

Brent here with Emotiva support. First, I will say that the next firmware is imminent, moreso than before, and I hope worth the wait. Beta code has had some major improvements in my setups at work and at home, and I hope the final release behaves the same. I know it has been a long time coming with some delays, and some of you have probably heard directly from me that "it's just a few weeks away" over the past few months. But we are close, and as someone who handles a lot of customer support for configuration issues, I am really looking forward to it.

Great news as I was about to nuke my current settings, for some reason on Sat I was watching something and heard a hickup in the audio, then, a really muffled center and low sound.
My current work around is to put the audio source to 2.0 and let the processor to do a fake surround and all sounds good, but fake surround. 
It also does this on all my input sources so not just one input.   
By doing this and that there is nothing wrong with the amps and center channel, glad as the tweeter in that center is NLA

Its almost like its applying surround twice or something, havent had a ton of time to diagnose but.... yes I have done a complete power down with no HDMI/Network connected and let it sit for about 18hrs before reconnecting and powering it up.  
Sounds like the FW is a week or 2 away.... I can live that long unless someone has seen this 

[EmoBrent]

Jun 21, 2022 16:17:41 GMT -5 sandbagger said:

Jun 21, 2022 13:24:20 GMT -5 EmoBrent said:

Brent here with Emotiva support. First, I will say that the next firmware is imminent, moreso than before, and I hope worth the wait. Beta code has had some major improvements in my setups at work and at home, and I hope the final release behaves the same. I know it has been a long time coming with some delays, and some of you have probably heard directly from me that "it's just a few weeks away" over the past few months. But we are close, and as someone who handles a lot of customer support for configuration issues, I am really looking forward to it.

Great news as I was about to nuke my current settings, for some reason on Sat I was watching something and heard a hickup in the audio, then, a really muffled center and low sound.
My current work around is to put the audio source to 2.0 and let the processor to do a fake surround and all sounds good, but fake surround. 
It also does this on all my input sources so not just one input.   
By doing this and that there is nothing wrong with the amps and center channel, glad as the tweeter in that center is NLA

Its almost like its applying surround twice or something, havent had a ton of time to diagnose but.... yes I have done a complete power down with no HDMI/Network connected and let it sit for about 18hrs before reconnecting and powering it up.  
Sounds like the FW is a week or 2 away.... I can live that long unless someone has seen this 

You may try to backup your settings, perform a factory reset, then restore your settings, as a first step to see if you can resolve this. You may even just want to backup settings, factory reset, see if it behaves the same from factory settings or is improved, then reload your settings and test. Center should play and decode fine from factory with no changes to the config. You can always back up your settings and test from factory before trashing the settings completely. If it does the same thing from factory, it's likely not a config file issue.

The issue being only related to your Center is also odd, and I don't immediately suspect the processor based on your description. The fact that the Center channel info is properly decoded and distributed to the mains when you switch the mode is another clue that the DSP seems to be responding as expected. I would suggest swapping some amplifier channel inputs/outputs between your Center and other known working channel to verify the processor and not the amp if you haven't already done this. Just turning the Center to None in your speaker preset and back, trying to play some Levels test tones through the Center may also give you more info on where the breakdown is occurring. Just my impressions reading your description.

But yes, I hesitate to even come here and mention the firmware release or put a timeframe on it, but we are getting there.

[sandbagger]

I have the last DIRAC saved on the laptop so my plan is to just do a factory reset, load that and see what happens before I go through setting up anything else.
the fact that if I switch netflix to output 2.0 from the DVD player and let the processor turn it into surround it sounds fine proves to me that the center channel and amp are fine. but if I switch it back to the 5.1 feed, center gets all screwy sounding. Same thing if I change the cable box to 2.0, sounds fine, let it do its thing with DD+ 5.1 and center sounds screwed up. I also tried switching between DIRAC and non and that didnt help.

[NicS]

Jun 21, 2022 13:24:20 GMT -5 EmoBrent said:

Brent here with Emotiva support. First, I will say that the next firmware is imminent, moreso than before, and I hope worth the wait. Beta code has had some major improvements in my setups at work and at home, and I hope the final release behaves the same. I know it has been a long time coming with some delays, and some of you have probably heard directly from me that "it's just a few weeks away" over the past few months. But we are close, and as someone who handles a lot of customer support for configuration issues, I am really looking forward to it.

All that to say, I think I recently stumbled upon a fix or partial solution for anyone who is experiencing ticks/pops/cracks with some HDMI sources, including Apple TV and NVidia Shield, likely others as well. I just came upon this yesterday, so I have only been able to test in a limited fashion, but it is a simple change in the settings of the processor, and it has made a significant difference. Here is the fix that I encourage any users to try who are having this issue, and this likely would only apply to firmware 2.4 or 2.5 machines but has not been tested on previous versions.


Tick/pop/crack possible fix:
For any of the HDMI inputs used in the XMC-2/RMC-1/L, navigate to Setup > Inputs > HDMI [#] > Lip Sync Delay, and set this to 100 mSec. Set the same delay of 100 mSec for any HDMI inputs with sources that are presenting this issue, and leave any others set to 0 mSec. You may experiment with values less than 100, as this is a fairly arbitrary number, but I found that values under approx. 50 may not work as well as a higher value to eliminate unwanted noise/ticks/pops.

If you set different delay values for different HDMI inputs, this fix will not help. For example, if you set one delay to 100 mSec and another input's delay to 99 mSec, you will get poor behavior when you toggle back and forth between these inputs. Any unused or unaffected HDMI inputs may be left at the default of 0 mSec and will not cause any issue if set to 0.

Altering the lip-sync value should not affect the audio-video sync, but it may help alleviate some of these noises. We are still working to track down why the lip-sync is not being applied as a lip-sync and why this setting might affect the pops/ticks. But this is the fix that we have found works in many cases where this noise is present on HDMI sources.

I encourage any to try this with HDMI sources that present ticks/pops/cracks. Feel free to reply here, but I may miss some feedback on this thread.

I would truly appreciate if anyone has had this issue and is able to improve it by setting some lip-sync delays, please send me a Direct Message on the forum boards. Any feedback will help us to better resolve this issue permanently. Thanks.

Brent, that is encouraging news indeed. Does this also mean that the updated HDMI board is on it's way too? You know. The one you can't really talk about?

Any way of getting a list of bug fixes and additional features we can expect with v3.0?

If you want we could get the Ouija board going on a Zoom call and see if we can figure it out that way.....