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Post by hsamwel on Jul 26, 2022 17:11:39 GMT -5
Sorry if this is slightly off topic but can I ask what you mean by "Turn off source formatting," in the ATV? Do you mean turn off match frame rate and match resolution? I'm talking about "Match Content" that reformats the video for resolution and HDR. I personally don't have any issue with those, but it sounds like others have. I have them off because I prefer to leave any content scaling/modification to the TV itself. Match content does not do anything with the resolution. It will see to that the source material keep their original colors and frame rate. Which anyone really would want unless there’s an issue with the display handling 24p for example. AppleTV will simply output the resolution you have set in the settings. If set to 4k and everything will be output in 4k. Set it to 1080p and everything will be output in 1080p. SDR/HDR will be handled automatically if the match content color option is turned on. This is why I want a source direct or match resolution feature in AppleTV. If you have a 4k display I would recommend letting AppleTV scale up 1080p content just so all 4k content are not scaled down. I have mine set to 4k SDR 60hz. Then both match content options turned on. Never have Dolby Vision set in AppleTV video settings. Because AppleTV will output everything in Dolby Vision even if the content isn’t. You will not loose Dolby Vision, it will view it if the source has it. As long as the match content color option is turned on. |
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Post by hsamwel on Jul 26, 2022 17:43:54 GMT -5
Yes, turning off Match Content dynamic range and framerate, along with the CEC "Control TVs and Receivers," in the Apple TV will eliminate most blackouts when changing/starting material or apps. By nature, when you have the source change either the dynamic range or framerate, the HDMI handshake is renegotiated on some level, at least with HDMI 2.0b. The severity of how this looks is source and display-dependent. I think that the HDMI processing speed of the XMC-2/RMC-1/L exacerbates this slightly, but this is what is happening and can be avoided if you configure it properly. If you alter these settings on the Roku (which is deeper in the menus but there on the latest Ultras at least) to switch dynamic range and framerate to match the original source, the same thing will happen. Many streamers don't offer this as a standard option to avoid this issue. Projectors, especially older 1080p projectors, only make this worse if you are experiencing it. I know there will still be reasons to complain about 3.0 when it is released, but I am still excited for it. The reasons it was pulled back and is still delayed are some of the exact same complaints many are expressing. So we could have released it a few weeks ago sure. And it won't be perfect still once released. I know it has been a long road. I thought EVERYONE already had turned off ANYTHING CEC/ARC related so I didn’t even mention it.  I don’t understand what the issue is really. Yes, you’ll get a black screen with a screen switch. But rather that than wrong colors and frame rate. Emotiva aren’t alone with this. A friend of mine has his AppleTV in the bedroom connected directly to a TV and also get a black screen on screen switches. I have black screen of about 2 seconds. It’s really annoying on some places. Like Tidal, it seems to do screen mode switches for every page. Some apps change only between content and menu. Apple could have made the match content options configurable for each app instead of global. I hope they will do this in the future. |
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Post by bitzerjdb on Jul 26, 2022 20:25:38 GMT -5
If you are interested in the best settings for AppleTV, check out this link. It's been floating around for a while, but it's short and sweet! www.youtube.com/watch?v=htd_1RSaf3A |
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Jul 27, 2022 16:34:23 GMT -5
Yes, turning off Match Content dynamic range and framerate, along with the CEC "Control TVs and Receivers," in the Apple TV will eliminate most blackouts when changing/starting material or apps. By nature, when you have the source change either the dynamic range or framerate, the HDMI handshake is renegotiated on some level, at least with HDMI 2.0b. The severity of how this looks is source and display-dependent. I think that the HDMI processing speed of the XMC-2/RMC-1/L exacerbates this slightly, but this is what is happening and can be avoided if you configure it properly. If you alter these settings on the Roku (which is deeper in the menus but there on the latest Ultras at least) to switch dynamic range and framerate to match the original source, the same thing will happen. Many streamers don't offer this as a standard option to avoid this issue. Projectors, especially older 1080p projectors, only make this worse if you are experiencing it. I know there will still be reasons to complain about 3.0 when it is released, but I am still excited for it. The reasons it was pulled back and is still delayed are some of the exact same complaints many are expressing. So we could have released it a few weeks ago sure. And it won't be perfect still once released. I know it has been a long road. Solid Brent Love that you are a regular visitor to this forum now. Sorry for all the shade we occasionally throw. I know you guys are doing your best. Looking forward to 3.0, warts and all. |
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Post by amaheshw on Jul 28, 2022 8:44:18 GMT -5
New RMC-1L owner here with a question about optimal subwoofer connections. I am considering a pair of SVS SB-4000s, which have L/R XLR inputs, as well as an LFE. One of my subs will require a cable run of at least 30 ft. I understand that I have two connection options: (1) XLR to RCA (LFE), and (2) XLR Y splitter (female XLR from RMC to 2 male XLRs connected to the sub's L/R XLRs).
Question: which of the two options is the optimal connection method? I assume that option 2 (XLR) is preferable because of (a) noise attenuation and more importantly, (b) to create a fully balanced signal from processor to sub and take full advantage of the RMC's balanced circuitry.
Is this assumption correct? Is it worth spending an extra $1,500 on the SB-4000s (vs the SB-3000s that lack XLR inputs) simply for its XLRs? The XLR inputs are the sole reason I am even considering the 4000s. Will the XLR to XLR connection produce an audible sonic difference?
Thanks, and apologies for this elementary question.
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ttocs
Global Moderator 
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,104
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Post by ttocs on Jul 28, 2022 9:13:21 GMT -5
New RMC-1L owner here with a question about optimal subwoofer connections. I am considering a pair of SVS SB-4000s, which have L/R XLR inputs, as well as an LFE. One of my subs will require a cable run of at least 30 ft. I understand that I have two connection options: (1) XLR to RCA (LFE), and (2) XLR Y splitter (female XLR from RMC to 2 male XLRs connected to the sub's L/R XLRs). Question: which of the two options is the optimal connection method? I assume that option 2 (XLR) is preferable because of (a) noise attenuation and more importantly, (b) to create a fully balanced signal from processor to sub and take full advantage of the RMC's balanced circuitry. Is this assumption correct? Is it worth spending an extra $1,500 on the SB-4000s (vs the SB-3000s that lack XLR inputs) simply for its XLRs? The XLR inputs are the sole reason I am even considering the 4000s. Will the XLR to XLR connection produce an audible sonic difference? Thanks, and apologies for this elementary question. My subs all have XLR connections, but I don't use them because I use miniDSP 2x4HD which only have RCA connections. So, I use Emotiva VSUB wireless transmitters and receivers for the long runs. So I'd recommend using wireless, which is a less expensive option and works great. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 28, 2022 9:48:46 GMT -5
New RMC-1L owner here with a question about optimal subwoofer connections. I am considering a pair of SVS SB-4000s, which have L/R XLR inputs, as well as an LFE. One of my subs will require a cable run of at least 30 ft. I understand that I have two connection options: (1) XLR to RCA (LFE), and (2) XLR Y splitter (female XLR from RMC to 2 male XLRs connected to the sub's L/R XLRs). Question: which of the two options is the optimal connection method? I assume that option 2 (XLR) is preferable because of (a) noise attenuation and more importantly, (b) to create a fully balanced signal from processor to sub and take full advantage of the RMC's balanced circuitry. Is this assumption correct? Is it worth spending an extra $1,500 on the SB-4000s (vs the SB-3000s that lack XLR inputs) simply for its XLRs? The XLR inputs are the sole reason I am even considering the 4000s. Will the XLR to XLR connection produce an audible sonic difference? Thanks, and apologies for this elementary question. I like balanced XLR connections and would pay extra for them. That said, under many (most?) situations, you might not hear the difference, but the positive quality of the connector, relative immunity to noise, and elimination of adapters make it worth it to me. I also have a pair of SB-4000s and I think you have one other option which would be to run a single XLR from the RMC to one 4000s input, and then daisy chain the second 4000 from its output. I was actually going to try this, but my cable was a little short. Of course placement might not lend itself to this topology, but it does eliminate the Y cable and still allow an all balanced connection. As to whether the SB-4000 is worth the extra cost? I’m a little mixed, certainly for me the XLR is worth it, and the performance of the 4000s has been very good (no complaints there). But I was ‘sold’ (by their excellent consultants) on the value of their App based setup, configuration, and operation of the sub, and while all of that works very well for setup, SVS has limited communication of the app to IR and proprietary Bluetooth. What this means to me is that I can’t take advantage of my Harmony Hub based system to control the subs during daily use (I had different presets for two channel and home theatre), without awkward and unreliable IR blasters, I gave up. What they need to do IMO, is to replace the wired trigger function with a wired IR connection (or maybe make it switchable), or open up their Bluetooth functionality to the installer, HT community (like TV can be controlled by BT), I don’t know how professional installers deal with this. This may be of no interest or concern to you, but thanks for letting me get on my soapbox for a few minutes. Edit: I guess I failed to point out that even though it falls short for me, the App based setup and control is another advantage the SB-4000 has over the 3000, and probably a significant part of the extra cost. It is very nice for setup, it’s just so close for daily use that it’s frustrating it doesn’t go all the way. |
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EmoBrent
Emo Staff
Processor and Product Support
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Post by EmoBrent on Jul 28, 2022 9:54:22 GMT -5
Yes, turning off Match Content dynamic range and framerate, along with the CEC "Control TVs and Receivers," in the Apple TV will eliminate most blackouts when changing/starting material or apps. By nature, when you have the source change either the dynamic range or framerate, the HDMI handshake is renegotiated on some level, at least with HDMI 2.0b. The severity of how this looks is source and display-dependent. I think that the HDMI processing speed of the XMC-2/RMC-1/L exacerbates this slightly, but this is what is happening and can be avoided if you configure it properly. If you alter these settings on the Roku (which is deeper in the menus but there on the latest Ultras at least) to switch dynamic range and framerate to match the original source, the same thing will happen. Many streamers don't offer this as a standard option to avoid this issue. Projectors, especially older 1080p projectors, only make this worse if you are experiencing it. I know there will still be reasons to complain about 3.0 when it is released, but I am still excited for it. The reasons it was pulled back and is still delayed are some of the exact same complaints many are expressing. So we could have released it a few weeks ago sure. And it won't be perfect still once released. I know it has been a long road. Solid Brent Love that you are a regular visitor to this forum now. Sorry for all the shade we occasionally throw. I know you guys are doing your best. Looking forward to 3.0, warts and all. Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. |
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Jul 28, 2022 10:04:58 GMT -5
Solid Brent Love that you are a regular visitor to this forum now. Sorry for all the shade we occasionally throw. I know you guys are doing your best. Looking forward to 3.0, warts and all. Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. It’s very weird. I have the 100, 200 and the latest 110 units to test. Very well made UDP’s. Hoping they bring out a UDP player with ROON & streaming capability. You guys should OEM a variant under the Emotiva marque. Make it a one stop digital source. CD, SACD, DVD, BluRay, DSD file streamer, Roon etc etc. I can get the unit to work but only after a very specific startup sequence. It simply will not hang on to the handshake though. Perplexing. |
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Post by amaheshw on Jul 28, 2022 12:26:58 GMT -5
New RMC-1L owner here with a question about optimal subwoofer connections. I am considering a pair of SVS SB-4000s, which have L/R XLR inputs, as well as an LFE. One of my subs will require a cable run of at least 30 ft. I understand that I have two connection options: (1) XLR to RCA (LFE), and (2) XLR Y splitter (female XLR from RMC to 2 male XLRs connected to the sub's L/R XLRs). Question: which of the two options is the optimal connection method? I assume that option 2 (XLR) is preferable because of (a) noise attenuation and more importantly, (b) to create a fully balanced signal from processor to sub and take full advantage of the RMC's balanced circuitry. Is this assumption correct? Is it worth spending an extra $1,500 on the SB-4000s (vs the SB-3000s that lack XLR inputs) simply for its XLRs? The XLR inputs are the sole reason I am even considering the 4000s. Will the XLR to XLR connection produce an audible sonic difference? Thanks, and apologies for this elementary question. I like balanced XLR connections and would pay extra for them. That said, under many (most?) situations, you might not hear the difference, but the positive quality of the connector, relative immunity to noise, and elimination of adapters make it worth it to me. I also have a pair of SB-4000s and I think you have one other option which would be to run a single XLR from the RMC to one 4000s input, and then daisy chain the second 4000 from its output. I was actually going to try this, but my cable was a little short. Of course placement might not lend itself to this topology, but it does eliminate the Y cable and still allow an all balanced connection. As to whether the SB-4000 is worth the extra cost? I’m a little mixed, certainly for me the XLR is worth it, and the performance of the 4000s has been very good (no complaints there). But I was ‘sold’ (by their excellent consultants) on the value of their App based setup, configuration, and operation of the sub, and while all of that works very well for setup, SVS has limited communication of the app to IR and proprietary Bluetooth. What this means to me is that I can’t take advantage of my Harmony Hub based system to control the subs during daily use (I had different presets for two channel and home theatre), without awkward and unreliable IR blasters, I gave up. What they need to do IMO, is to replace the wired trigger function with a wired IR connection (or maybe make it switchable), or open up their Bluetooth functionality to the installer, HT community (like TV can be controlled by BT), I don’t know how professional installers deal with this. This may be of no interest or concern to you, but thanks for letting me get on my soapbox for a few minutes. Edit: I guess I failed to point out that even though it falls short for me, the App based setup and control is another advantage the SB-4000 has over the 3000, and probably a significant part of the extra cost. It is very nice for setup, it’s just so close for daily use that it’s frustrating it doesn’t go all the way. Thanks very much for the info -- extremely helpful. I haven't given much thought to the app yet (haven't even deployed the RMC into my system) but I will definitely keep this in the back of my mind. So how do you connect the RMC to your SB-4000s? It sounds like you are are not using a Y cable. Are you simply connecting the XLR from the RMC to either the L or R input on the sub? |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 28, 2022 12:44:34 GMT -5
I like balanced XLR connections and would pay extra for them. That said, under many (most?) situations, you might not hear the difference, but the positive quality of the connector, relative immunity to noise, and elimination of adapters make it worth it to me. I also have a pair of SB-4000s and I think you have one other option which would be to run a single XLR from the RMC to one 4000s input, and then daisy chain the second 4000 from its output. I was actually going to try this, but my cable was a little short. Of course placement might not lend itself to this topology, but it does eliminate the Y cable and still allow an all balanced connection. As to whether the SB-4000 is worth the extra cost? I’m a little mixed, certainly for me the XLR is worth it, and the performance of the 4000s has been very good (no complaints there). But I was ‘sold’ (by their excellent consultants) on the value of their App based setup, configuration, and operation of the sub, and while all of that works very well for setup, SVS has limited communication of the app to IR and proprietary Bluetooth. What this means to me is that I can’t take advantage of my Harmony Hub based system to control the subs during daily use (I had different presets for two channel and home theatre), without awkward and unreliable IR blasters, I gave up. What they need to do IMO, is to replace the wired trigger function with a wired IR connection (or maybe make it switchable), or open up their Bluetooth functionality to the installer, HT community (like TV can be controlled by BT), I don’t know how professional installers deal with this. This may be of no interest or concern to you, but thanks for letting me get on my soapbox for a few minutes. Edit: I guess I failed to point out that even though it falls short for me, the App based setup and control is another advantage the SB-4000 has over the 3000, and probably a significant part of the extra cost. It is very nice for setup, it’s just so close for daily use that it’s frustrating it doesn’t go all the way. Thanks very much for the info -- extremely helpful. I haven't given much thought to the app yet (haven't even deployed the RMC into my system) but I will definitely keep this in the back of my mind. So how do you connect the RMC to your SB-4000s? It sounds like you are are not using a Y cable. Are you simply connecting the XLR from the RMC to either the L or R input on the sub? I have done it two different ways, an XLR Y from the Center Sub out and then on to each sub (sub configured as Mono), also Left Sub Out to Left Sub, Right Sub Out to Right Sub (configured as Dual Mono). I'm currently using the later because (A) my subs are perfectly symmetrical from the center of my system, and (B) I hate Y cables (and adapters in general). Most would probably say that the first method is the best, especially for allowing Dirac to make a good measurement and correction to the 'sub system'. For this reason, and because I will need the L/R sub outputs to add 'Wides', I will probably soon build a longer cable and do the 3rd 'daisy chain' option I mentioned above (which should be equivalent to the Y cable). |
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Post by BigE on Jul 28, 2022 14:45:16 GMT -5
Solid Brent Love that you are a regular visitor to this forum now. Sorry for all the shade we occasionally throw. I know you guys are doing your best. Looking forward to 3.0, warts and all. Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. Good to know. Looked at Reavon. Will hold off until Xbox 1s is no longer viable. |
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Lsc
Emo VIPs 
Posts: 3,425
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Post by Lsc on Jul 28, 2022 17:47:38 GMT -5
Edit: I guess I failed to point out that even though it falls short for me, the App based setup and control is another advantage the SB-4000 has over the 3000, and probably a significant part of the extra cost. It is very nice for setup, it’s just so close for daily use that it’s frustrating it doesn’t go all the way. I think the extra cost the far beefier driver of the 4000. I also agree that it’s worth the extra for the SB-4000. I have the predecessor to the SB-4000 ie SB-13 which is very solid. |
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Post by hsamwel on Jul 29, 2022 18:38:05 GMT -5
Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. It’s very weird. I have the 100, 200 and the latest 110 units to test. Very well made UDP’s. Hoping they bring out a UDP player with ROON & streaming capability. You guys should OEM a variant under the Emotiva marque. Make it a one stop digital source. CD, SACD, DVD, BluRay, DSD file streamer, Roon etc etc. I can get the unit to work but only after a very specific startup sequence. It simply will not hang on to the handshake though. Perplexing. It’s probably due to some of your devices not playing nice. I doubt Reavon is at fault. I would take a guess at the Epson projector. Could be some feature that needs to be turned off. My Panasonic 1080p (the last HT projector they made) actually works fine together with all all my other device. I have HDMI 1.4, 2.0 and 2.1. No issues at all really. Most of the times all modern HDMI 2.0+ devices usually work good together. It’s when an older device is mixed to the bunch things can get ugly, sometimes. |
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Post by hsamwel on Jul 29, 2022 18:57:56 GMT -5
If you are interested in the best settings for AppleTV, check out this link. It's been floating around for a while, but it's short and sweet! www.youtube.com/watch?v=htd_1RSaf3AAs I wrote before! My exact settings for video. He also explain why you shouldn’t set your AppleTV to HDR or DV a little bit better than I did. Although he didn’t mention the resolution and what happens to older content (upscaled). Too bad AppleTV doesn’t have a match pixel resolution as well as those other great features. For those with external scalers or high end display devices. For me it doesn’t matter though, I mostly stream 4k material. |
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Post by hsamwel on Jul 29, 2022 19:18:30 GMT -5
Solid Brent Love that you are a regular visitor to this forum now. Sorry for all the shade we occasionally throw. I know you guys are doing your best. Looking forward to 3.0, warts and all. Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. Sometimes it can be one of the connected devices disturbing. Usually one of the older HDMI 1.x. It can also be so simple as a questionable cable. Which work sometimes, and sometimes not. Even though being ”certified”. People don’t think it can be the cable because it works most of the times. Also works fine if I connect it to ”this or that”. What they often don’t think about is the total length from source to processor and to the display device. Two 6ft cables suddenly becomes 12ft. Do the super thin Amazon cables work the same with that length, even though being certified? |
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Post by PaulBe on Jul 30, 2022 9:22:17 GMT -5
Thanks Nic. I know it helps to be able to vent, especially to other Emotiva owners who share the experience. Regardless, it has been good for me to get on the forum to learn from users who want to be involved and try to provide updates when we can. I still can't figure out why that Reavon universal player we got works in every setup and with every 1080p projector I tried it with but keeps giving you fits with yours and your processor! It still bugs me every time I see that player in the office. Sometimes it can be one of the connected devices disturbing. Usually one of the older HDMI 1.x. It can also be so simple as a questionable cable. Which work sometimes, and sometimes not. Even though being ”certified”. People don’t think it can be the cable because it works most of the times. Also works fine if I connect it to ”this or that”. What they often don’t think about is the total length from source to processor and to the display device. Two 6ft cables suddenly becomes 12ft. Do the super thin Amazon cables work the same with that length, even though being certified? Two 6' cables in series do not become 12' when there is buffering and processing in-between. The addition of OSD alone adds processing. The two 6' cables example is not a straight pass-through. Make the cables on both sides equally high resolution to limit questions. 4K? 8K? Cost is not an issue with 6' cables. |
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Post by carbonsummit on Aug 1, 2022 21:52:14 GMT -5
RMC-1 owner who works way too much.
It's been a while since I've been on here. What is the current firmware number? Any big changes lately?
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Post by kanichkhun on Aug 1, 2022 22:06:25 GMT -5
RMC-1 owner who works way too much. It's been a while since I've been on here. What is the current firmware number? Any big changes lately? currently 2.5. big change is coming at 3.0. when? supposedly soon. |
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Post by wizardofoz on Aug 2, 2022 9:45:41 GMT -5
another month or slips by....ho hum what to do
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