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Post by bitzerjdb on May 22, 2020 12:22:10 GMT -5
If set to Auto, it selects the 4K option...and the Green Screen If set to the 4K option....it sticks and I get the Green Screen I've set it to 1080p (or 1080i) and it is rock solid (HDMI lock is very quick) In your example, the highest output from the Tivo is 720p. I probably will just leave it at 1080. I wanted 4K so I could see the Netflix 4K titles, but I can use the Native app on the TV or the Roku. I have Verizon Fios and am getting 1080i feeds. FYI - Tried a totally different new cable this morning and got the same result...it's not the cables. Again - On the bright side, this is a Major improvement. Setting it to 1080 previously didn't make a difference, I would get a black screen with a NO Signal message. Thanks for the suggestions! Please check something on the TiVo, Menu:: Help:: Account & System Info:: Diagnostics:: Signal Strength: 94%, SNR: 37dB (my current readings) The Signal Strength and SNR tell the health of the incoming signal. The Signal Strength needs to be between 80-99%, and the range for SNR is between 29-35. Too high or too low causes problems, but can be corrected. Signal Strength = 95% SNR = 38dB New Symptom, NO Sound after TV was off. Changed Ports (TV, RMC), Turned TV on and off, Pulled and reinserted the HDMI Cable, Changed Video resolution on the Tivo, Switched to other devices and there was sound. Video (1080) was fine... I took the cable from the RMC and moved it to a different HDMI input on the TV, still no sound from the Bolt. Moved the cable back to the TV (Direct) and poof, sound.... and was able to set the resolution to Auto (and it selected 4K) |
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Post by bblv on May 22, 2020 12:23:44 GMT -5
Is it possible to add a toggle in each speaker preset to allow or disallow Direct mode? The issue I have is that the target level of my PEQ filters required me to boost the LRC speaker levels significantly (7-9db each) to match the 75db level for the rest of my room’s speakers, so when I toggle through the sound modes and Direct kicks in the front speakers are extremely loud. I’d like to remove the Direct mode option to avoid any potential ear and/or speaker damage.
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Post by bblv on May 22, 2020 12:27:44 GMT -5
A tutorial on properly setting up the various sound/bass modes as they relate to subwoofer integration would be a great addition to the initial posts. I personally find all of the various options overwhelmingly and haven’t been able to dial in my subs properly. Just don’t have enough free time to spend hours experimenting, running measurements, tweaking PEQs, etc.
I suppose Dirac will help in this regard, but it would be helpful to understand them all better. I’ve read the sections of the manual relating to this topic several times and it’s just not clicking for whatever reason.
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 22, 2020 12:39:29 GMT -5
When I put mine into Lowest Power mode, I hit the On button once on the remote and it turns on. Are you turning the main power switch on the back to Off? edit: I just realized you mentioned CEC. Please check CEC on your unit because some have noted that it's been getting enabled with FW-1.10. I leave the main power switch in the back on. I just toggle the power supply to my rack. The RMC-1 boots up and then goes into standby. With prior firmware it would stay on which I prefer. CEC is not enabled. The default with recent firmwares has been for Standby to be Video Remains On. This will result in the behavior you are experiencing. When you set the Standby to Lowest Power, this will result in the behavior you want (I hope). Video Remains On:: Power unplugged:: Connect power and wait for unit to boot into Standby, press Power button (front panel) or On button (remote) to turn on. Lowest Power:: Power unplugged:: Connect power, unit is already and immediately in Lowest Power Standby, press Power button or On button to turn on. In both cases the RMC/XMC-2 will go into whichever Standby mode has been selected, then press the On button to turn on. It's just a difference of being able to immediately press the On button, vs having to wait for the boot process - then press On. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 22, 2020 12:41:22 GMT -5
Please check something on the TiVo, Menu:: Help:: Account & System Info:: Diagnostics:: Signal Strength: 94%, SNR: 37dB (my current readings) The Signal Strength and SNR tell the health of the incoming signal. The Signal Strength needs to be between 80-99%, and the range for SNR is between 29-35. Too high or too low causes problems, but can be corrected. Signal Strength = 95% SNR = 38dB New Symptom, NO Sound after TV was off. Changed Ports (TV, RMC), Turned TV on and off, Pulled and reinserted the HDMI Cable, Changed Video resolution on the Tivo, Switched to other devices and there was sound. Video (1080) was fine... I took the cable from the RMC and moved it to a different HDMI input on the TV, still no sound from the Bolt. Moved the cable back to the TV (Direct) and poof, sound.... and was able to set the resolution to Auto (and it selected 4K) Is the audio on the Bolt set to Dolby Audio or PCM? If Dolby, then try PCM. |
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richb
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Post by richb on May 22, 2020 12:44:55 GMT -5
But this does not explain why when in HDMI it still show 24bits Thanks I think it’s a default info that’s being shown when playing analog. Played a bluray, showed correctly 48khz 24bit. Changed to a SACD, RMC-1 correctly changed to 2.8mhz 1bit. Changed to the CD layer of the disc, still hdmi input, now it shows 44.1khz 24bit. Correct?! Don’t know but I have no setting to upscale the bitrate on my Pioneer UDP-LX800. Still on the CD layer and changed to XLR balanced input, RMC-1 shows 48khz 24bit. Changed to SACD layer, still on XLR, RMC-1 still shows 48khz 24bit. Changed back to hdmi, still on SACD layer, RMC-1 correctly changed to 2.8mhz 1bit. Still on hdmi and SACD layer, changed to pcm output from the player. RMC-1 shows 88.2khz 24bit. Changed to an DVD, old dolby digital 5.1 track, almost certainly a 48khz 16bit. RMC-1 now shows 48khz 16bit correctly. Why my CD layer shows 24bit is a mystery.. Analog gets a default of 48khz 24bit shown. The OPPO players expand all 16 bit LPCM to 24 bits. So, this may be correct. - Rich |
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Post by bitzerjdb on May 22, 2020 12:54:58 GMT -5
Signal Strength = 95% SNR = 38dB New Symptom, NO Sound after TV was off. Changed Ports (TV, RMC), Turned TV on and off, Pulled and reinserted the HDMI Cable, Changed Video resolution on the Tivo, Switched to other devices and there was sound. Video (1080) was fine... I took the cable from the RMC and moved it to a different HDMI input on the TV, still no sound from the Bolt. Moved the cable back to the TV (Direct) and poof, sound.... and was able to set the resolution to Auto (and it selected 4K) Is the audio on the Bolt set to Dolby Audio or PCM? If Dolby, then try PCM. Tried it...no difference |
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Post by lwestfall on May 22, 2020 12:55:18 GMT -5
I leave the main power switch in the back on. I just toggle the power supply to my rack. The RMC-1 boots up and then goes into standby. With prior firmware it would stay on which I prefer. CEC is not enabled. The default with recent firmwares has been for Standby to be Video Remains On. This will result in the behavior you are experiencing. When you set the Standby to Lowest Power, this will result in the behavior you want (I hope). Video Remains On:: Power unplugged:: Connect power and wait for unit to boot into Standby, press Power button (front panel) or On button (remote) to turn on. Lowest Power:: Power unplugged:: Connect power, unit is already and immediately in Lowest Power Standby, press Power button or On button to turn on. In both cases the RMC/XMC-2 will go into whichever Standby mode has been selected, then press the On button to turn on. It's just a difference of being able to immediately press the On button, vs having to wait for the boot process - then press On. My point is that I don't like either option. I would like to not have to press On on the RMC-1 after I turn the power supply on. It powered up to on (not standby) with firmware v1.7 I believe. Perhaps a good solution would be to add a third Standby setting "Power Up to On" so people like me who want to leave out the extra step of pressing On can choose to power it up ready to go. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 22, 2020 13:07:33 GMT -5
... I can't replicate your situation with 1080i because my Comcast has abandoned 1080i. I used to be able to see 1080i in the past, but now everything is 720p and lower. I normally set mine to Auto (recommended) which upscales everything to 4K. ... With the quality of upscaling on your 950G being so good, wouldn’t it be better to set your Comcast Box at 720p and let the Sony do the heavy lifting? As you say Comcast sends everything at 720p. The only time that might not work is if Comcast actually sent something in 4K which I know is rare. I think a good general recommendation for all STBs is to set them at their services basic resolution and frame rate — unless they have a ‘native’ resolution setting. My DirecTV eliminated ‘native’ resolution last summer, at which point I switched to 1080i (DTVs base res), the Sony handles the 4K upscaling much better (and still sends the 4K channels in 2160p/60). Simply choosing only 720p doesn't work and bricked the TiVo when I tried Netflix 4K, necessitating a unplug of the TiVo. Going back and forth between Auto and checking all the individual resolutions possible - but not Auto - forces the upscale to 4K to be done by the Sony tv. TiVo Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks great, general tv show text fonts look good and smooth. Sony Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks bad, general tv show fonts have sharp jaggies, "maybe" fewer artifacts but not sure yet, little pops are sometimes heard when switching channels with different res, gonna leave it this way to try for a bit. So one could argue that the sharp jaggies mean a sharper image, but this is not the case. The amount of tiny details in any freeze frame I viewed were indiscernible between the two methods. The TiVo does a better job of smoothing jaggies without smoothing out tiny details. TiVo upscale results in a more enjoyable experience. Anyway, I'm gonna try having the Sony tv upscale for a bit and see how I feel later. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 22, 2020 13:34:25 GMT -5
With the quality of upscaling on your 950G being so good, wouldn’t it be better to set your Comcast Box at 720p and let the Sony do the heavy lifting? As you say Comcast sends everything at 720p. The only time that might not work is if Comcast actually sent something in 4K which I know is rare. I think a good general recommendation for all STBs is to set them at their services basic resolution and frame rate — unless they have a ‘native’ resolution setting. My DirecTV eliminated ‘native’ resolution last summer, at which point I switched to 1080i (DTVs base res), the Sony handles the 4K upscaling much better (and still sends the 4K channels in 2160p/60). Simply choosing only 720p doesn't work and bricked the TiVo when I tried Netflix 4K, necessitating a unplug of the TiVo. Going back and forth between Auto and checking all the individual resolutions possible - but not Auto - forces the upscale to 4K to be done by the Sony tv. TiVo Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks great, general tv show text fonts look good and smooth. Sony Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks bad, general tv show fonts have sharp jaggies, "maybe" fewer artifacts but not sure yet, little pops are sometimes heard when switching channels with different res, gonna leave it this way to try for a bit. So one could argue that the sharp jaggies mean a sharper image, but this is not the case. The amount of tiny details in any freeze frame I viewed were indiscernible between the two methods. The TiVo does a better job of smoothing jaggies without smoothing out tiny details. TiVo upscale results in a more enjoyable experience. Anyway, I'm gonna try having the Sony tv upscale for a bit and see how I feel later. So where is the Netflix 4K app running, Comcast or TiVo? I’m not familiar with TiVo, so the Comcast box feeds it, and it might upscale, or by checking the boxes does that allow it to pass the native resolution? Doesn’t matter, I’m just curious, I like the Sony’s upscaling (and yours should be better than mine), but haven’t seen TiVo. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 22, 2020 14:01:31 GMT -5
Simply choosing only 720p doesn't work and bricked the TiVo when I tried Netflix 4K, necessitating a unplug of the TiVo. Going back and forth between Auto and checking all the individual resolutions possible - but not Auto - forces the upscale to 4K to be done by the Sony tv. TiVo Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks great, general tv show text fonts look good and smooth. Sony Upscale:: The TiVo menu looks bad, general tv show fonts have sharp jaggies, "maybe" fewer artifacts but not sure yet, little pops are sometimes heard when switching channels with different res, gonna leave it this way to try for a bit. So one could argue that the sharp jaggies mean a sharper image, but this is not the case. The amount of tiny details in any freeze frame I viewed were indiscernible between the two methods. The TiVo does a better job of smoothing jaggies without smoothing out tiny details. TiVo upscale results in a more enjoyable experience. Anyway, I'm gonna try having the Sony tv upscale for a bit and see how I feel later. So where is the Netflix 4K app running, Comcast or TiVo? I’m not familiar with TiVo, so the Comcast box feeds it, and it might upscale, or by checking the boxes does that allow it to pass the native resolution? Doesn’t matter, I’m just curious, I like the Sony’s upscaling (and yours should be better than mine), but haven’t seen TiVo. Just for clarity, I am definitely not suggesting TiVo is better, yet. I need more screen time to determine. It's a mixed bag, so it'll take a bunch of different content to see what shows up and when. BUT, TiVo has some features that keep me as a customer, the biggest of which is 6 LIVE TUNERS! I switch between shows regularly without having to record any of them. Then, there's the Instant Replay and fast forward capabilities that other boxes just can't compete with. That said, The TiVo box is instead of the Comcast box, it's a standalone box with a cable card. Netflix is an app on the TiVo box, but here's the catch - Dolby Vision won't work on Sony tv's until TiVo gives us a firmware update to make it compatible with Sony DV. Promised from the first week the box was released, still waiting. No word at all from TiVo even when asked directly. The Xfinity box makes you choose ONE resolution, and that's it. So it needs to be set to 4K. I still have the Comcast box but haven't had it connected in so long it needs a phone call to get it going, which I will do when I get back home. Netflix is also on this box so maybe I'll test it to see if DV works. |
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Post by KeithL on May 22, 2020 16:14:41 GMT -5
Usually, when it comes to upscaling to 4k, the TV itself will do the best job. (Because its upscaler can be optimized for the particular panel it uses.)
Most TVs also have a bunch of different sharpening and smoothing options.
And, of course, various upscaling options in the TV might produce better results - depending on exactly what you feed them. (Some upscalers deliver better quality from clean source material... while others do better at patching up low quality or low resolution content.)
So where is the Netflix 4K app running, Comcast or TiVo? I’m not familiar with TiVo, so the Comcast box feeds it, and it might upscale, or by checking the boxes does that allow it to pass the native resolution? Doesn’t matter, I’m just curious, I like the Sony’s upscaling (and yours should be better than mine), but haven’t seen TiVo. Just for clarity, I am definitely not suggesting TiVo is better, yet. I need more screen time to determine. It's a mixed bag, so it'll take a bunch of different content to see what shows up and when. BUT, TiVo has some features that keep me as a customer, the biggest of which is 6 LIVE TUNERS! I switch between shows regularly without having to record any of them. Then, there's the Instant Replay and fast forward capabilities that other boxes just can't compete with. That said, The TiVo box is instead of the Comcast box, it's a standalone box with a cable card. Netflix is an app on the TiVo box, but here's the catch - Dolby Vision won't work on Sony tv's until TiVo gives us a firmware update to make it compatible with Sony DV. Promised from the first week the box was released, still waiting. No word at all from TiVo even when asked directly. The Xfinity box makes you choose ONE resolution, and that's it. So it needs to be set to 4K. I still have the Comcast box but haven't had it connected in so long it needs a phone call to get it going, which I will do when I get back home. Netflix is also on this box so maybe I'll test it to see if DV works. |
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Post by megash0n on May 22, 2020 16:24:39 GMT -5
Usually, when it comes to upscaling to 4k, the TV itself will do the best job. (Because its upscaler can be optimized for the particular panel it uses.)
Most TVs also have a bunch of different sharpening and smoothing options.
And, of course, various upscaling options in the TV might produce better results - depending on exactly what you feed them. (Some upscalers deliver better quality from clean source material... while others do better at patching up low quality or low resolution content.)
Just for clarity, I am definitely not suggesting TiVo is better, yet. I need more screen time to determine. It's a mixed bag, so it'll take a bunch of different content to see what shows up and when. BUT, TiVo has some features that keep me as a customer, the biggest of which is 6 LIVE TUNERS! I switch between shows regularly without having to record any of them. Then, there's the Instant Replay and fast forward capabilities that other boxes just can't compete with. That said, The TiVo box is instead of the Comcast box, it's a standalone box with a cable card. Netflix is an app on the TiVo box, but here's the catch - Dolby Vision won't work on Sony tv's until TiVo gives us a firmware update to make it compatible with Sony DV. Promised from the first week the box was released, still waiting. No word at all from TiVo even when asked directly. The Xfinity box makes you choose ONE resolution, and that's it. So it needs to be set to 4K. I still have the Comcast box but haven't had it connected in so long it needs a phone call to get it going, which I will do when I get back home. Netflix is also on this box so maybe I'll test it to see if DV works. For anyone using a PC for video, MadVR is the best I've seen for up scaling. |
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Post by frenchyfranky on May 22, 2020 16:43:12 GMT -5
As I said in a post earlier a static noise is present in video standby mode, and always present in the auxiliary optical spdif output. I just used today my outside Patio Zone 2 and the static annoying noise is present. KeithL could you please inform the software developer of this. Thanks. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 22, 2020 17:14:21 GMT -5
Usually, when it comes to upscaling to 4k, the TV itself will do the best job. (Because its upscaler can be optimized for the particular panel it uses.) Most TVs also have a bunch of different sharpening and smoothing options. And, of course, various upscaling options in the TV might produce better results - depending on exactly what you feed them. (Some upscalers deliver better quality from clean source material... while others do better at patching up low quality or low resolution content.) I've read everywhere that the tv is the best upscaler. This is why I'm wanting to have the tv do the upscale for now so I can check some things. You also bring up something that hadn't come up yet, and that has to do with settings on the tv for smoothing that maybe the TiVo is set to do automatically. I know that there are a bunch of settings that are available on the Sony tv so it'll be an education to discover what they do. I just need a bit of time to discover. |
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Post by bitzerjdb on May 22, 2020 18:57:26 GMT -5
Just for giggles this afternoon, I swapped out the HDMI cable on the Tivo Bolt with an older Monoprice Active HDMI cable. Again, the Tivo synced perfectly at 4K with the Sony TV, and has kept the sync with multiple on and off's of the TV. The TIVO is set to Dolby and Auto Resolution. Skipping, pausing, etc work without a hitch. The cable is not rated for 4K and refuses to work with RMC for lesser resolutions. The reason for the test was to get the Bolt to fail to sync with the TV.
The Info on the TV shows..
3840X2160 4k & Dolby Digital
For whatever reason, my Bolt does not like the RMC... On the bright side the other components do now so all is good in the house.
Thanks again for everyone who offered suggestions, this is the way a community provides fantastic value!!
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Post by markc on May 22, 2020 18:59:12 GMT -5
So does your Video Resolution setup look like this? I can't replicate your situation with 1080i because my Comcast has abandoned 1080i. I used to be able to see 1080i in the past, but now everything is 720p and lower. I normally set mine to Auto (recommended) which upscales everything to 4K. When changing from the settings shown in the photo above to Auto there is a confirmation that appears if the downstream components are capable of 4K, then requiring a Thumbs Up to accept. Curious to know what cable system you have, and what is being sent at 1080i? If set to Auto, it selects the 4K option...and the Green Screen If set to the 4K option....it sticks and I get the Green Screen I've set it to 1080p (or 1080i) and it is rock solid (HDMI lock is very quick) In your example, the highest output from the Tivo is 720p. I probably will just leave it at 1080. I wanted 4K so I could see the Netflix 4K titles, but I can use the Native app on the TV or the Roku. I have Verizon Fios and am getting 1080i feeds. FYI - Tried a totally different new cable this morning and got the same result...it's not the cables. Again - On the bright side, this is a Major improvement. Setting it to 1080 previously didn't make a difference, I would get a black screen with a NO Signal message. Thanks for the suggestions! 1) This is an HDMI bandwidth or handshake problem in one of the devices in the chain (device or cable). You have proved it is not the TiVo or the TV or the one cable you used to connect these two directly. 2) The RMC-1 can definitely transmit 4K HDR but check that the RMC-1’s User configurable HDMI mode for the HDMI input you are using is set to 2.0 in the menu/Settings/input section (1.4 will not carry 4K HDR) 3) When routing TiVo through the RMC-1, you have two HDMI cables (TiVo to RMC-1 & RMC-1 to TV) and both have to be up to the required spec for 4K . If one of them is low speed then The whole chain will have lower bandwidth 4) Are you using an HDMI splitter or switch or using both HDMI outputs of the RMC-1 for dual screen or projector connection? If so the output will default to the lowest capacity due to HDMI handshaking. Eg non 4k projector, or just an HDMI 1.4 splitter or switcher finally, on the RMC-1 front panel, what bit depth is the Incoming TiVo video when it’s playing green? 8 bit is SDR. HDR will be 10 or 12 bit. I get the green (or pink) with HDR from my HTPC. it is using Intel HD Graphics 4600 which is HDMI 1.4 so can only output 8bit SDR, and at the 4K resolution the PC desktop is at, I can only use up to 30Hz. (JRiver interface looks awesome at this resolution and I use the MadVR video scaling of JRiver to output video as 2160p 23/24/30 Hz 4K SDR, (any sources with higher frame rate are configured to go as 1080p 50/60Hz with the TV doing the final up scaling to 4K) (JRiver can do this selection on the fly) When I tried playing 4K HDR source material, it cannot. I got either a pink tinge or a green tinge to the output because of the colour mapping that KeithL mentioned and my 8 bit hardware limitation. It is therefore possible that your TiVo is playing HDR but something in your TiVo to RMC-1 to TV is not HDMI 2.0 and it is capped to 8 bit |
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Post by markc on May 22, 2020 19:18:54 GMT -5
Usually, when it comes to upscaling to 4k, the TV itself will do the best job. (Because its upscaler can be optimized for the particular panel it uses.) Most TVs also have a bunch of different sharpening and smoothing options. And, of course, various upscaling options in the TV might produce better results - depending on exactly what you feed them. (Some upscalers deliver better quality from clean source material... while others do better at patching up low quality or low resolution content.) I've read everywhere that the tv is the best upscaler. This is why I'm wanting to have the tv do the upscale for now so I can check some things. You also bring up something that hadn't come up yet, and that has to do with settings on the tv for smoothing that maybe the TiVo is set to do automatically. I know that there are a bunch of settings that are available on the Sony tv so it'll be an education to discover what they do. I just need a bit of time to discover. The best upscaler also depends on the source and the transmission chain and how many upscale sequences occur. If an HTPC or TiVo or other device is playing lower resolution sources then just one upscale to 4K may be better. i found this with my HTPC which was originally set to only output 1080p when I first got the Samsung 82” Q70R 480p, 576p DVD sources and 720p were getting up scaled to 1080p in the PC and then "doubled" in a second upscale to 2160p in the Tv itself. i found a universally much better result by doing one upscale straight to 2160p in the PC. Mathematically there is less interpolation / lost resolution this way I suppose. i find the same with the OPPO BDP105 it defaults to 1080p output which the TV "doubles" to 2160p. This is not as good looking as the other two options. I find much better images using either the OPPO’ s source direct mode where DVD sources are sent as 480i/576i and deinterlaced/upscale in one go, or the Oppo’s 4K upscale output. The OPPO 4K is limited to 30Hz (1.4 HDMI) so although the picture is the same quality, video source direct and the Samsung TV upscaling/deinterlacing wins. |
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Post by hytram on May 22, 2020 19:32:13 GMT -5
Have an opportunity to get a mini PC for little coin to update the HTPC
Problem is it only has display port out.
Will a display port to hdmi cable work into the XMC-2 or am I asking for a world of pain?
Also when playing 5.1 material, I have the both 'surround' and 'Dolby surround' to choose from... Difference?
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Post by bluescale on May 22, 2020 19:47:01 GMT -5
It's interesting that you've twice now noted that you feel like the bass response is gone with Neural:X, when this wasn't my experience. LFE definitely felt robust as far as I can remember. What is your crossover frequency? I wonder if the upmixer is leaving the sub alone, but killing other speakers. I'm crossing over at 90hz. While there's a lot of good midbass still above 90, if you're crossing over lower, say 40 or even 60, things like gunshots will have a lot more energy emanating from your mains vs. mine. I doubt this is the case. It is not just over a few Hz bandwidth at the subwoofer crossover that is missing. Vocals are muted, everything is muted. (I don't mean just in volume, I mean localisation, reverb) Just the vocal deficit means that the 300 to 3400 Hz range is affected. Bluescale, can I ask you to experiment with the way you change surround mode while listening, as per point 2 in my post, just to see if you can provoke the Neural:X bad effect. Also, what speaker configuration are you and Megashon running. Mine is 7.2 (I forgot I have the Buttkicker set up as Subwoofer 2) I repeatedly found that the Neural:X wasn't even engaging when selected, depending on how it was selected. I don't think I properly conveyed what I'm hypothesizing. I'm wondering if the only channel *not* affected is LFE, or maybe redirected bass as well. I absolutely heard the bad Neural:X upmixing when watching the Batman trilogy (upmixed from 5.1 to 7.1) a couple weeks ago. It sounded horrible until I changed it from Auto to Surround. In my case, the only thing that seemed right when it was being upmixed was the bass. For megash0n, however, he feels that bass is lacking during the upmix also. I'm trying to pinpoint the difference in our experience. As for speakers, I'm running 7.1 (I have 2 subs, but they are split using a miniDSP). Next week I'll install 4 ceiling speakers, but for the moment it's just a standard 7.1 setup. |
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