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Post by jasonf on Sept 26, 2022 0:14:21 GMT -5
It's Friday again. Wishing you all a restful and hopeful weekend. Hopeful that next week will be that week. You know, the week of the eternal next week in the search of v3.0 firmware. Or the Holy Grail. Whatever is more realistic. After all, it's only a cup... At this point Im starting to think they don’t know what they are doing or this generation of processors can’t be fixed. There is no reason some of these needed smaller fixes can’t be fixed in an appropriate time frame with smaller firmware updates. I just don’t get it. Sorry but this is now beyond unbelievable. Nah, this is par for the course with Emotiva. Things always take about 10x longer than expected, but it arrives eventually.
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Post by aswiss on Sept 26, 2022 6:03:42 GMT -5
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Sept 26, 2022 9:30:17 GMT -5
One thing I've been wondering about, I do find the snaps and cracks and pops annoying but they usually aren't loud, certainly not loud enough to worry about damaging my speakers. I'm curious, for others experiencing this, how high do you have the volume whenever they are loud enough to cause concern? Are they always the same volume? Mine seem to fluctuate with the actual volume settings so unless I'm watching a movie they are usually pretty quiet.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,229
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Post by KeithL on Sept 26, 2022 10:24:09 GMT -5
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Post by sebna on Sept 26, 2022 12:58:12 GMT -5
I noticed in one review that RaspberryPi has miniSD card with custom system on it for DIRAC purposes. Is there somewhere Emotiva provided image of this system with checksum to download and to reimage said miniSD card? I bet what is on miniSD is corrupted by now and I would like to restore it to its original form.
Many thanks
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,229
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Post by KeithL on Sept 26, 2022 13:57:45 GMT -5
The Raspberry Pi basically acts as a sort of "bridge" or "protocol converter". The software for it is pretty simple and, if it were to become corrupted, it probably just wouldn't start up. However, if you want it, you can download an image file for the microSD card here: www.dropbox.com/s/0cs1xkvnof3vqdz/pi_dirac_remote_dist_2020_12_28.img?dl=0And you can get a checksum file for it here: www.dropbox.com/s/d3r4n4znkwwzpnw/pi_dirac_remote_dist_2020_12_28.sfv?dl=0I noticed in one review that RaspberryPi has miniSD card with custom system on it for DIRAC purposes. Is there somewhere Emotiva provided image of this system with checksum to download and to reimage said miniSD card? I bet what is on miniSD is corrupted by now and I would like to restore it to its original form. Many thanks
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Post by sebna on Sept 26, 2022 14:02:03 GMT -5
The Raspberry Pi basically acts as a sort of "bridge" or "protocol converter". The software for it is pretty simple and, if it were to become corrupted, it probably just wouldn't start up. However, if you want it, you can download an image file for the microSD card here: www.dropbox.com/s/0cs1xkvnof3vqdz/pi_dirac_remote_dist_2020_12_28.img?dl=0And you can get a checksum file for it here: www.dropbox.com/s/d3r4n4znkwwzpnw/pi_dirac_remote_dist_2020_12_28.sfv?dl=0I noticed in one review that RaspberryPi has miniSD card with custom system on it for DIRAC purposes. Is there somewhere Emotiva provided image of this system with checksum to download and to reimage said miniSD card? I bet what is on miniSD is corrupted by now and I would like to restore it to its original form. Many thanks Keith thank you very much. Very impressive speed of response and it puts my mind at ease. I know there is plenty of bad blood with delays of FW updates but I must say that as a new comer I find Emotiva support nothing less than exquisite.
Soon to power up for the first real test my 2nd unit for the first time
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Post by jim80z on Sept 26, 2022 20:20:48 GMT -5
One thing I've been wondering about, I do find the snaps and cracks and pops annoying but they usually aren't loud, certainly not loud enough to worry about damaging my speakers. I'm curious, for others experiencing this, how high do you have the volume whenever they are loud enough to cause concern? Are they always the same volume? Mine seem to fluctuate with the actual volume settings so unless I'm watching a movie they are usually pretty quiet. Hi No they are not the same volume for me....their loudness is based on master volume. For clarity what I see is: - When I am in the middle of watching or listening something, there are no clicks or pops. Quiet scenes are quiet and general sound is fantastic....so no complaints - A simple repeatable example: Im listening to a movie at -15db and its in say truehd 7.1 atmos and when the movie ends I forget to mute the RMC. Lets say the Nvidia or whatever device goes back to the main menu and I move the cursor/highlight to another option......the sound encoding goes to 2 channel from the truehd to give the audio confirmation as you navigate the screen/device. This change in format causes the pop@-15db from a single(? havnt nailed this yet, sounds like single channel) random channel (usually atmos, surround or rear channel).....after the format changes its fine again until the next format change and another initial pop. This is a simple example where you could switch off confirmation audio if the device allows it, but as I said easy example. - Now if your watching the mouse's streaming channel and have to push up the volume due to atmouse audio levels, the pop will be much louder (usually -8-10db) - Sometimes you can experience a mid show stream issue and it drops encoding then comes back on line etc....you get the picture - etc Now rarely and from time to time as the system boots and energises there may be some very low grade static type click or two.......this is nothing to write home about and is not what Im calling out. Anyway this is what Im seeing, not sure if its the same for others. So you have to remember to mute continuously, switch off as many audio features on the device GUIs, reduce the volume to -25-30db (thinking about it I should try to automate this) when you finish for the day, etc etc etc to avoid the pops as much as possible.
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Post by jim80z on Sept 26, 2022 20:21:44 GMT -5
Keith thank you very much. Very impressive speed of response and it puts my mind at ease. I know there is plenty of bad blood with delays of FW updates but I must say that as a new comer I find Emotiva support nothing less than exquisite.
Soon to power up for the first real test my 2nd unit for the first time Agreed thanks heaps for this Keith!!!
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Post by jim80z on Sept 27, 2022 10:13:18 GMT -5
Guys
Some advice/help please - Is it possible to go back into DIRAC load ups previous project and retest one speaker in all physical mic positions eg the sub in my case? Then export the set of filters with the new sub filter? Doesn't look like I can. - OR can I remove the DIRAC sub filter only at the RMC somehow and then equalise the subs at my MiniDSP? - Wondering what people are using for bass setup. I have large speakers and 4 subs now. Should I go with small for left and right fronts and mono for sub? or LFE? or enhanced bass?
Thanks heaps.
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Post by marcl on Sept 27, 2022 10:30:33 GMT -5
Guys Some advice/help please - Is it possible to go back into DIRAC load ups previous project and retest one speaker in all physical mic positions eg the sub in my case? Then export the set of filters with the new sub filter? Doesn't look like I can. - OR can I remove the DIRAC sub filter only at the RMC somehow and then equalise the subs at my MiniDSP? - Wondering what people are using for bass setup. I have large speakers and 4 subs now. Should I go with small for left and right fronts and mono for sub? or LFE? or enhanced bass? Thanks heaps. You can't go back and only measure one speaker. You can go back and measure all speakers at one or more positions, replacing the measurements for those positions. One caveat ... to do this reliably you must save a "measurements" project before proceeding from Measurements to Filter Design. Dirac does some preprocessing when you go to Filter Design and I was unable to get reliable results trying to go back to Measurements. You can't delete Dirac filters for a single output at the RMC. The best way to do what you want to do without rerunning Dirac measurements without the sub channel configured would be to load the project in Dirac and pull the curtains so the sub channel gets no correction. My recommendation is that you just time align and level match your subs with the miniDSP, and let Dirac do the amplitude and impulse response correction. Then if you want to tweak the results you can always do some additional filtering in the miniDSP. p.s. REW Alignment Tool is very handy for time-aligning the subs. www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bwpLfbLiZ4&t=2s
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Post by jim80z on Sept 27, 2022 11:46:19 GMT -5
Guys Some advice/help please - Is it possible to go back into DIRAC load ups previous project and retest one speaker in all physical mic positions eg the sub in my case? Then export the set of filters with the new sub filter? Doesn't look like I can. - OR can I remove the DIRAC sub filter only at the RMC somehow and then equalise the subs at my MiniDSP? - Wondering what people are using for bass setup. I have large speakers and 4 subs now. Should I go with small for left and right fronts and mono for sub? or LFE? or enhanced bass? Thanks heaps. You can't go back and only measure one speaker. You can go back and measure all speakers at one or more positions, replacing the measurements for those positions. One caveat ... to do this reliably you must save a "measurements" project before proceeding from Measurements to Filter Design. Dirac does some preprocessing when you go to Filter Design and I was unable to get reliable results trying to go back to Measurements. You can't delete Dirac filters for a single output at the RMC. The best way to do what you want to do without rerunning Dirac measurements without the sub channel configured would be to load the project in Dirac and pull the curtains so the sub channel gets no correction. My recommendation is that you just time align and level match your subs with the miniDSP, and let Dirac do the amplitude and impulse response correction. Then if you want to tweak the results you can always do some additional filtering in the miniDSP. p.s. REW Alignment Tool is very handy for time-aligning the subs. www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bwpLfbLiZ4&t=2sThanks for confirming what I was seeing in DIRAC Marcl. RE MiniDSP, that's exactly what I want to do and have used REW and its alignment tool. BTW I used a single location with pink noise to gain match the subs, then put them in their final spots and then did the alignment sweeps......Im wondering once positioned and aligned did you then level match each subwoofers output using the MiniDSP output level? Last step would be using RMC'c Dirac on the whole lot. BTW the alignment tool did a great job with the four subs but is having a wild time predicting the effects of the enhanced bass from the main speakers ie Im getting a sweep of the mains bass output, then aligning the subwoofers one at a time using sweeps and the alignment tool.....problem is a combined sweep doesn't match the alignment tool.....so ends up being lots of trial and error.....thinking about giving up on enhanced bass.
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Post by marcl on Sept 27, 2022 12:04:12 GMT -5
You can't go back and only measure one speaker. You can go back and measure all speakers at one or more positions, replacing the measurements for those positions. One caveat ... to do this reliably you must save a "measurements" project before proceeding from Measurements to Filter Design. Dirac does some preprocessing when you go to Filter Design and I was unable to get reliable results trying to go back to Measurements. You can't delete Dirac filters for a single output at the RMC. The best way to do what you want to do without rerunning Dirac measurements without the sub channel configured would be to load the project in Dirac and pull the curtains so the sub channel gets no correction. My recommendation is that you just time align and level match your subs with the miniDSP, and let Dirac do the amplitude and impulse response correction. Then if you want to tweak the results you can always do some additional filtering in the miniDSP. p.s. REW Alignment Tool is very handy for time-aligning the subs. www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bwpLfbLiZ4&t=2sThanks for confirming what I was seeing in DIRAC Marcl. RE MiniDSP, that's exactly what I want to do and have used REW and its alignment tool. BTW I used a single location with pink noise to gain match the subs, then put them in their final spots and then did the alignment sweeps......Im wondering once positioned and aligned did you then level match each subwoofers output using the MiniDSP output level? Last step would be using RMC'c Dirac on the whole lot. BTW the alignment tool did a great job with the four subs but is having a wild time predicting the effects of the enhanced bass from the main speakers ie Im getting a sweep of the mains bass output, then aligning the subwoofers one at a time using sweeps and the alignment tool.....problem is a combined sweep doesn't match the alignment tool.....so ends up being lots of trial and error.....thinking about giving up on enhanced bass. I think I see what you're doing and it's actually simpler than this. If you just use the Alignment Tool to align the subs to each other, then Dirac will see them as one sub for the purpose of aligning that sub out put to the rest of the speakers. I adjust sub levels using the level controls on the subs themselves with them at their final position, and get them to measure the same at the MLP ... the place where you take Dirac measurement #1. That should be sufficient. Now, if you are literally using the Enhanced Bass feature with your mains set to large ... yeah that is going to be tough because although the subs and mains will play together in normal use, they will not play together when you do Dirac measurements. You probably are doing this to get the subs to play the bottom end below the range of your mains ... and that makes sense. But you really don't have enough control and you end up working against Dirac. So here's another way to do it: Put a Y cable on your main outputs, send one side to your normal L/R and send the other side to a combiner. Send the output of the combiner to the other input on your miniDSP. As with the sub input from the RMC, send this combined L/R input to all the subs. One more thing ... configure the input filter on that L/R input to be a Low Pass at whatever frequency you want the subs to take over below the mains. Leave the mains set to large, but turn off Enhanced Bass. The result is kind of the same as you had using Enhanced Bass with the mains playing full range and the subs just below a crossover. Now ... what will happen when you measure the mains with Dirac is they will play and the subs will play the summed output below the LFP and Dirac will nicely smooth out the frequency response of the mains integrated with the subs! This example shows three subs but of course it works as well with 2 or 4. I happen to like to split LFE from Bass Management as shown here. But if you want Bass Management sent to your subs along with LFE, just set your Center Sub=Mono.
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ttocs
Global Moderator
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,094
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Post by ttocs on Sept 27, 2022 12:10:27 GMT -5
Im wondering once positioned and aligned did you then level match each subwoofers output using the MiniDSP output level? I use each subwoofer's gain to "tune" the nulls and minimize them before running Dirac. Mine are not the same SPL at the MLP.
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Post by marcl on Sept 27, 2022 12:17:21 GMT -5
Im wondering once positioned and aligned did you then level match each subwoofers output using the MiniDSP output level? I use each subwoofer's gain to "tune" the nulls and minimize them before running Dirac. Mine are not the same SPL at the MLP. But ttocs you have like 9 subs right? just kidding! Yeah at another level of tweaking after you get them equal, it can certainly make sense to adjust the different subs to minimize nulls at the MLP since they are playing from different parts of the room. Also, if you're using a miniDSP 2x4HD, I've had some success removing cancellations by placing an All-Pass filter with Q=1 at the cancellation. Real trial and error but it has worked.
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ttocs
Global Moderator
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,094
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Post by ttocs on Sept 27, 2022 12:24:28 GMT -5
I'm using 6 right now marcl. Three stacks of two at the moment. Actually, I just got them going again yesterday after a long hiatus while reworking the components into a new location (the lengthy hiatus is due to only a few days off in the last couple months). So this weekend will be lots of play time with subwoofery! Gonna try some new ideas.
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Sept 27, 2022 19:48:12 GMT -5
Here's a little suggestion: what about a simple set of tone controls on the Zone 2 output. I mean, it's not like this is used for anything but a set of outdoor speakers or muzak in the kitchen, where you need a bit of simple correction, in my case a bit of bass reduction. Or is this feature there somewhere, lurking in the shadows?
Maybe it'll be in the v3.0 firmware update. In 2023. Maybe March. Late March.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 28, 2022 9:12:42 GMT -5
Here's a little suggestion: what about a simple set of tone controls on the Zone 2 output. I mean, it's not like this is used for anything but a set of outdoor speakers or muzak in the kitchen, where you need a bit of simple correction, in my case a bit of bass reduction. Or is this feature there somewhere, lurking in the shadows? Maybe it'll be in the v3.0 firmware update. In 2023. Maybe March. Late March. Personally not a fan of this idea, I currently drive four different pairs of speakers with the zone 2 output, via a zone amp. A singe set of tone controls wouldn’t be helpful, I feel tone controls best belong with the amplifier channels driving individual pairs of speakers. As it’s never been mentioned, I wouldn’t be hopeful.
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Post by SticknStones on Sept 28, 2022 9:40:19 GMT -5
Here's a little suggestion: what about a simple set of tone controls on the Zone 2 output. I mean, it's not like this is used for anything but a set of outdoor speakers or muzak in the kitchen, where you need a bit of simple correction, in my case a bit of bass reduction. Or is this feature there somewhere, lurking in the shadows? Maybe it'll be in the v3.0 firmware update. In 2023. Maybe March. Late March. Personally not a fan of this idea, I currently drive four different pairs of speakers with the zone 2 output, via a zone amp. A singe set of tone controls wouldn’t be helpful, I feel tone controls best belong with the amplifier channels driving individual pairs of speakers. As it’s never been mentioned, I wouldn’t be hopeful. I use zone 2 exclusively for my wireless headphones. It works great.
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Sept 28, 2022 9:53:17 GMT -5
Personally not a fan of this idea, I currently drive four different pairs of speakers with the zone 2 output, via a zone amp. A singe set of tone controls wouldn’t be helpful, I feel tone controls best belong with the amplifier channels driving individual pairs of speakers. As it’s never been mentioned, I wouldn’t be hopeful. I use zone 2 exclusively for my wireless headphones. It works great. I was thinking just treble and bass controls specifically for the Zone 2 output, with the facility to bypass the tone control altogether. Just so there is some control.
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