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Post by Nanometer on Jun 3, 2020 18:32:01 GMT -5
Hey there!
Normally I would have created a thread in the troubleshooting section. But given that there are no threads in there, I was concerned it would not receive the attention I am hoping it would get.
So this amp is connected to a PT-100, and been so for quite a while. The pre amp has no issues. But the amplifier has issues turning on even with nothing connected. Unplugged and left alone for a day and returns the same phenomena. The circumstance is that as soon as I hit the rear power switch, the unit power cycles on and off. And I try pressing the front power button to no avail. But if I keep on pressing it, I will eventually get lucky and the unit stays on. The unit is happy staying on and performance is just fine. The only issue is getting it to turn on. Any suggestions? I don't want to upgrade this specific system since it's my bedroom setup. Emotiva wanted 150 or so to repair it, which based on the current value and initial cost of the amp is not really worth it IMHO.... Appreciate any advice!
Thanks!
-Daniel
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Post by ttocs on Jun 3, 2020 18:49:52 GMT -5
I have the same amp. Let's say that all in, with shipping, it's about $200. I'd get it fixed because you won't find the same performance for double the price.
Answers to some questions might change my mind on what I said.
Is it possible that the Power switch is the fault? If so, maybe try spray cleaner.
Is there a warranty on the repair?
Do you need an amp with this much power?
Will Emotiva give you anything for it as a trade-in? I know they could sell it quick as a refurbished.
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Post by garbulky on Jun 3, 2020 19:35:01 GMT -5
Hey there!
Normally I would have created a thread in the troubleshooting section. But given that there are no threads in there, I was concerned it would not receive the attention I am hoping it would get.
So this amp is connected to a PT-100, and been so for quite a while. The pre amp has no issues. But the amplifier has issues turning on even with nothing connected. Unplugged and left alone for a day and returns the same phenomena. The circumstance is that as soon as I hit the rear power switch, the unit power cycles on and off. And I try pressing the front power button to no avail. But if I keep on pressing it, I will eventually get lucky and the unit stays on. The unit is happy staying on and performance is just fine. The only issue is getting it to turn on. Any suggestions? I don't want to upgrade this specific system since it's my bedroom setup. Emotiva wanted 150 or so to repair it, which based on the current value and initial cost of the amp is not really worth it IMHO.... Appreciate any advice!
Thanks!
-Daniel
Have you tried the trigger functionality? Also if you call Emotiva and tell them about the finances, they may be able to work with you on the price. Like perhaps if it is a cheap fix, they would adjust the estimate etc. Doesn't hurt to ask. Maybe talk to Dan or somebody like that. I really do think they care about their customers and do what they can to help out. The XPA-200 is a wonderful amp and if that is the amp you want to use for the long run, I think $150 is worth it. I used a UPA-2 (which was "almost" an XPA-200) for many years of trouble free operation - close to a decade. What you got is a bada$$ amp. Totally worth keeping. I can't think of many other amps I would want over it, certainly none in that price range. I would in fact take the XPA-200 over the current XPA-2 gen 3 amp. That's how good I think it is. But....if you did just want to upgrade - the Emotiva PA-1's are the upgrade path for it or the XPA-2 gen 2 imo. Both excellent amps. |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 4,906
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Post by cawgijoe on Jun 3, 2020 19:38:53 GMT -5
$150 is a great fix it price. I would also ask what they would give you on trade in.
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Post by Nanometer on Jun 4, 2020 13:32:20 GMT -5
Some responses below. But I'll check with emotiva to see what they will offer. If the current state used value is not 300+ then its not worth repairing. I'll live with it for now, and just try to leave the unit on all the time to ease annoyance.. haha.. I'd rather sell it and get something better like a differential amplifier two channel anyway. or go for an NAD D3045 or emotiva equivalent.
Answers to some questions might change my mind on what I said. Is it possible that the Power switch is the fault? If so, maybe try spray cleaner. Sort of doubt it, but worth checking. Not sure how you can clean this type of switch without cutting the plastic pieces apart though. Perhaps theres a switch bypass where I can test to see if a different switch can make it power on with success.
Is there a warranty on the repair? Of course there would be a warranty, but probably only 30 days.
Do you need an amp with this much power? Probably not. Was consider the SVS soundbase, but tried one out and found too many things I didnt like about it.
Will Emotiva give you anything for it as a trade-in? I know they could sell it quick as a refurbished. It's worth asking. And I dont see how they could sell it as a refurbished model since they dont make the XPA-200 nor anything similar currently.
Thanks!
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Post by ttocs on Jun 4, 2020 14:09:10 GMT -5
Some responses below. But I'll check with emotiva to see what they will offer. If the current state used value is not 300+ then its not worth repairing.
Will Emotiva give you anything for it as a trade-in? I know they could sell it quick as a refurbished. It's worth asking. And I dont see how they could sell it as a refurbished model since they dont make the XPA-200 nor anything similar currently.
Thanks!
I've seen these for sale with asking price of $300-$350. Emotiva sells trade-ins regularly. Last year Emotiva said the trade-in amount for an XPA-200 in perfect condition is $150. I kept mine. |
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Post by leonski on Jun 4, 2020 19:01:12 GMT -5
This is the trouble with budget gear. Fix price can be a substantial percentage of NEW cost.
Me? I'd see if EMO would part with a Schematic and GO LOCAL for the fix. I can't imagine a proprietary part in this amp.
The way it would work is you get an estimate. If your estimate EXCEEDS your 'willing to pay' level, pay the estimate, retrieve your amp and go home.
If you elect to get it fixed, the ESTIMATE cost will be waived from final bill, which is good, since a lot of the hard part has already been done.....the diagnosis.
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Post by ttocs on Jun 4, 2020 19:49:44 GMT -5
Nanometer , I popped the top to take a peek, and found that the power button is indeed difficult to get at from behind. When I press the power button there is a definite snappy pop on the Press and Release. Don't know if this helps with any diagnosis, but there ya go. One last thing, it has a 5 Year Warranty, so it comes down to when you bought it. One nice thing about the XPA's.
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Post by leonski on Jun 5, 2020 0:56:21 GMT -5
Nanometer , I popped the top to take a peek, and found that the power button is indeed difficult to get at from behind. When I press the power button there is a definite snappy pop on the Press and Release. Don't know if this helps with any diagnosis, but there ya go. One last thing, it has a 5 Year Warranty, so it comes down to when you bought it. One nice thing about the XPA's. Want a REAL problem to assemble and fix? Get one of the old Carver Cube amps. The M400t was about 7 or 8 inches ON A SIDE in a cube shape. It ran cool due to design and low storage of energy. But when I tried to take mine apart? It was like a Chinese Puzzle Box. Even techs with experience with this amp don't like 'em. I worked as an electronics equipment tech for several decades so NOTHING scares me. Well? Hydrofluoric Acid does, but that's another subject. Point is? I'm used to working with complex assemblies in limited spaces. But not the cube! I got the back off and cracked into it and realized EVERYTHING was bolted to everything ELSE. I couldn't figure out where the end of the thread was. I really doubt I'd have that problem getting to a front panel power switch. Maybe just drop the front panel forward? Since the OP CAN get is working after messing about, COULD it be a bad switch? Or part of the soft-start in the Power Supply? If nothing SMELLS BAD chances are reasonable that nothing has 'fried'.......I'd ask the OP if his amp has always run cool and in a well ventilated space. Any power surges or brownouts? And get a copy of that Schematic if you're out of warranty.... |
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Post by ttocs on Jun 5, 2020 9:11:02 GMT -5
leonski has this spot on with dropping the front panel. Easy-peesy. In the photo you will see there is a green sticker on the circuit board attached to the front panel. Below that circuit board you will see the yellow edge of a smaller circuit board which is for the Power Button. The front panel is attached with two screws at each end and a few below. So if the amp is not under warranty then I would definitely attempt to disassemble and at least diagnose the operation of the button using a meter. 
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Post by leonski on Jun 5, 2020 13:34:09 GMT -5
Looks like a reasonably open design. Nothing requiring a contortionist to service.
However? Do Not mess with it if under warranty. And further? Before going 'in',
leave it UnPlugged for a couple hours. Those Largish PS caps hold a nasty charge
and will do MORE than tickle if you get zapped.
If you DO decide to self-service, take plenty of GOOD photos as you go. Make
sure those pesky PLUGS only go one way. If you reverse one at reassembly, it'll
get weird when you press 'go'.
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Post by ttocs on Jun 5, 2020 14:50:28 GMT -5
Most of those connectors have adhesive securing them so I'd leave those alone. Plus, the cables look long enough to drop the front panel and provide the working space to tinker. Yes, the caps store a lot of energy!
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Post by leonski on Jun 6, 2020 1:12:37 GMT -5
I don't understand using Glue on a connector which should already either have a one-way catch OR sufficient friction to prevent random disconnect. I 'parts out' my SONY SXRD TV. We're talking a detailed disassembly which was OK, since I had No Indention of putting it back together. I was liberating the Light Engine to sell to a rebuilder. Dozens of cables / connectors with some being extremely fragile. But NO glue. And IIRC, they only went together ONE way, no chance of flipping or swapping. The other connector I'm used to is MOLEX. They come from single pin to who knows how many. And all multi-pin styles are Keyed so they only go together ONE way..... www.molex.com/molex/products/group/wire_to_wire_connectorsThe stuff I worked on was mostly pre-'85 and since than the line has really diversified. Look under the hood of your car. EVERYTHING electrical goes together with plugs / harness |
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Post by ttocs on Jun 6, 2020 7:21:48 GMT -5
If you zoom into the photo you can notice what I'm calling adhesive on the three smaller connectors, it's red. The larger one has none.
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