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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 21, 2021 18:50:25 GMT -5
Thats a great advice... when I bought this amp (or any electronic for that matter), I never thought of the days I would have to find ways to repair them!!.... I have many pieces of electronic that working perfect, never had these problem. My Samsung Tv was on for more than 6 hrs/daily.. and still working perfect after 14 years. My Denon amp and avr are more than 20 years old... no sign of slowing down!!
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 4,897
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Post by cawgijoe on Mar 21, 2021 19:05:12 GMT -5
Thats a great advice... when I bought this amp (or any electronic for that matter), I never thought of the days I would have to find ways to repair them!!.... I have many pieces of electronic that working perfect, never had these problem. My Samsung Tv was on for more than 6 hrs/daily.. and still working perfect after 14 years. My Denon amp and avr are more than 20 years old... no sign of slowing down!! I know you are upset, but any electronic product can fail, or last a long time. I’ve had a Vizio TV fail after eight years., HDMI board....no parts available. A Sony bluray player within two years. A 32” Samsung tv after three years......amps are normally very stable products. It’s unfortunate, but such is life. You can either get it fixed, use as is, or move on to something else. I used the failure of my 55” 1080p tv to move on to a 65” 4K Samsung. Still going after five years. |
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 21, 2021 20:26:43 GMT -5
Need schematic to make any intelligent comment. IMO? Next time buy an amp ONLY if you can get the schematic..... It makes me mad that a manufacturer 'scrubs' the stamp off a part with the intent of 'forcing' some behavior. Than makes the schamatic a National Secret. I will call EMO tomorrow asking for the schematic... even buy it if need. I will post it here (if I can get it)... hopeful you guys can give some advice... |
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Post by leonski on Mar 21, 2021 20:44:47 GMT -5
Unless the responder is a technician, it'll do you minimal good. Take the sketch-0-matic AND the amp to a real tech.
Tech may charge a fee to diagnose. This fee is usually WAIVED if you continue with a paid fix....
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 9,937
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Post by KeithL on Mar 22, 2021 8:06:22 GMT -5
Here's the schematic for the LEDs themselves...
The lines labelled VC1 thru VC10 go to pins on the front panel processor... Which is an AT89C51... (That's a microcontroller - which requires special equipment to program).
(I assume you made sure that the LED Display switch is turned on.... )
Need schematic to make any intelligent comment. IMO? Next time buy an amp ONLY if you can get the schematic..... It makes me mad that a manufacturer 'scrubs' the stamp off a part with the intent of 'forcing' some behavior. Than makes the schamatic a National Secret. I will call EMO tomorrow asking for the schematic... even buy it if need. I will post it here (if I can get it)... hopeful you guys can give some advice... |
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Post by leonski on Mar 22, 2021 14:02:17 GMT -5
Here's the schematic for the LEDs themselves...
The lines labelled VC1 thru VC10 go to pins on the front panel processor... Which is an AT89C51... (That's a microcontroller - which requires special equipment to program).
(I assume you made sure that the LED Display switch is turned on.... )
I will call EMO tomorrow asking for the schematic... even buy it if need. I will post it here (if I can get it)... hopeful you guys can give some advice... I see Keith's point. It's PROGRAMABLE and most people and shops don't have the means. At this point? Maybe Keith's right! Bad Switch? Check with a meter, if you got one! Switches DO go bad, though they should last nearly forever. Flip it back and forth a few times to 'clean' contacts? I think you could even JUMPER it.....which would make circuit work if THAT were the problem.... Failing that? DO WITHOUT. |
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 22, 2021 14:26:47 GMT -5
Here's the schematic for the LEDs themselves...
The lines labelled VC1 thru VC10 go to pins on the front panel processor... Which is an AT89C51... (That's a microcontroller - which requires special equipment to program).
(I assume you made sure that the LED Display switch is turned on.... )
I see Keith's point. It's PROGRAMABLE and most people and shops don't have the means. At this point? Maybe Keith's right! Bad Switch? Check with a meter, if you got one! Switches DO go bad, though they should last nearly forever. Flip it back and forth a few times to 'clean' contacts? I think you could even JUMPER it.....which would make circuit work if THAT were the problem.... Failing that? DO WITHOUT. I did think about the switch too... I measured the LED' switches, and they "seems" to be ok. I did turn them on/off multiple time to clean. Infact, I think the switch works because when turned on LED meter switch, the blue indicator led dimmed a little (brighten when turned off). However, the board could be bad.... |
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 22, 2021 14:35:39 GMT -5
A member from different forum just sent me this schematic for this amp. Please take a look.... I dont know anything about electronic, but from tracing the connection, I "suspected" the problem might be from the main board (AXPA on the chart) or the switches board at the back (FaXPA). I traced through the k3 connection, which connected the FaXPA to main board AXPA. Note the LEDs board KaXPA is new from EMO, so I eliminated this board from the equation.... Attachments:FXPA-2.pdf (13.32 KB)
GbXPA-2.pdf (18.45 KB)
GaXPA-2.pdf (22.03 KB)
AXPA-2.pdf (31.04 KB)
GcXPA-2.pdf (19.78 KB)
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 22, 2021 14:37:16 GMT -5
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 24, 2021 19:55:52 GMT -5
This is the main board and caps. Attachments:
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Post by ttocs on Mar 24, 2021 20:05:58 GMT -5
This is the main board and caps. I'd like to get a better look at what appears to be Test Points with labels such as "Meter_R" and "Meter_L". |
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Post by nguyenphananh on Mar 24, 2021 21:01:18 GMT -5
This is the main board and caps. I'd like to get a better look at what appears to be Test Points with labels such as "Meter_R" and "Meter_L". I think what you saw is a solder points for the wires connector (on the opposite side). These 2 connectors going to output board Gxpa (if I remember correctly). I did check, removed and reconnected these to connectors to make sure of good contact... |
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