Looks like he/she is using quad monoblocks for a bi amp configuration?
Last Edit: Apr 27, 2021 9:09:48 GMT -5 by garbulky
Transport: Sony UBP-X700 UHD-Blu ray player spdif PC using Musiland Digital Times WASAPI via BNC connection - DAC: DC-1->XLR XPA-1 , RCA->Basx A-100 CD: Denon DCD 600 PCM 61 DAC. RCA Amp: XPA-1 gen 2 using XLR connections. Speakers: Axiom Audio m80 V3, Sennheisser HD700 headphones. two pairs 12 guage each bi-wire speaker cables per monoblock Headphone amp: Basx A-100 (INCREDIBLE VALUE!!)
That “component wall” harkens back to showrooms from back in the day
Allison IC-20's Allison Al 115 Allison NL 1440 Velodyne HGS 18 Emotiva XMC-1 Sunfire Signature 5 channel Amp. 3D Samsung BD-F7500 3D SONY UHP H1 Samsung 8000 3D 55" Denon cassette deck and VCR from the stone age!
I hope all that McIntosh gear has some sort of circulation/ventilation system.
What REALLY impressed me was the simplicity. Flip one switch and it all comes up without giving it a single thought
Allison IC-20's Allison Al 115 Allison NL 1440 Velodyne HGS 18 Emotiva XMC-1 Sunfire Signature 5 channel Amp. 3D Samsung BD-F7500 3D SONY UHP H1 Samsung 8000 3D 55" Denon cassette deck and VCR from the stone age!
I would LOVE to know more about the subwoofer integration and setup.
Emotiva XMC-2/HC-1/XPA-4/BasX A-5175, Krell Duo 300 XD, Martin Logan 13A/IW (4)/1100X (8), Emotiva Airmotiv Vaulta ATL-6.5 (4), Earthworks M23R My mother used to say to me, Elwood, In this world, you must be oh so smart, or oh so pleasant. Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. (Elwood P. Dowd)
I would LOVE to know more about the subwoofer integration and setup.
Appears reminiscent of the infinity IRS configuration. Though unique with the surround sound set up. One thing that caught my attention. That type of loudspeaker configuration is going to have home theater watchers needing to be back a good deal farther. That intern is making that flat screen a little small for my taste. Overall, it looks like a lot more equipment then thought has gone into this set up.
Allison IC-20's Allison Al 115 Allison NL 1440 Velodyne HGS 18 Emotiva XMC-1 Sunfire Signature 5 channel Amp. 3D Samsung BD-F7500 3D SONY UHP H1 Samsung 8000 3D 55" Denon cassette deck and VCR from the stone age!
I would LOVE to know more about the subwoofer integration and setup.
Appears reminiscent of the infinity IRS configuration. Though unique with the surround sound set up. One thing that caught my attention. That type of loudspeaker configuration is going to have home theater watchers needing to be back a good deal farther. That intern is making that flat screen a little small for my taste. Overall, it looks like a lot more equipment then thought has gone into this set up.
It looks quite nicely setup speaker wise. However, clearly the screen could be bigger especially for the kind of money being spent on equipment. Some people just don't care all that much for tv though so it was likely not where the owner's love really lies...(which is the sound) In terms of electornic equipment, obviously this is a Macintosh setup, which means that it's not the most budget conscious way to spend your money. But if you wanted an extensive mac line up, you would have accomplished it! What I really like is the multiple stacked subs and they don't look hideous unlike most subwoofers do in a room. My suggestion - go for a bigger center.
Last Edit: Apr 27, 2021 17:19:06 GMT -5 by garbulky
Transport: Sony UBP-X700 UHD-Blu ray player spdif PC using Musiland Digital Times WASAPI via BNC connection - DAC: DC-1->XLR XPA-1 , RCA->Basx A-100 CD: Denon DCD 600 PCM 61 DAC. RCA Amp: XPA-1 gen 2 using XLR connections. Speakers: Axiom Audio m80 V3, Sennheisser HD700 headphones. two pairs 12 guage each bi-wire speaker cables per monoblock Headphone amp: Basx A-100 (INCREDIBLE VALUE!!)
1. Phase the subs to the satellites (put your cell phone on the floor halfway between the sub & its satellite. Play white noise & adjust the sub phase dial for the loudest volume)
2. Set the main speakers to full range & turn off the subs. Play some white or pink noise & adjust volume until you get any usable decibel level (80, 90, or 100 work fine).
3. Then turn the main speakers off and the subs on. Use the online calculator to determine what (identical) loudness level per source (sub) will result in the combined dB level you chose above. Then set each individual sub (one at a time) such that their combined loudness equals that of the satellites.
Done.
Of course, if your gear has a room-correction calculator with microphone, just run the room correction with all sub volume knobs set identically, and the electronics will balance the satellites & subs for you.
Boom
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 1:13:23 GMT -5 by Boomzilla
Yamaha disc player / Roon Nucleus One / Library drives Godzilla & Kong / Dragonfly Red DAC iPad (Roon Remote) / Yamaha RX-V6A / Heathkit tube amps / JVC headphones GoldenEar Triton 3+ (used as subs) / SuperCenter XL / Klipsch RP-600m satellites
1. Phase the subs to the satellites (put your cell phone on the floor halfway between the sub & its satellite. Play white noise & adjust the sub phase dial for the loudest volume)
2. Set the main speakers to full range & turn off the subs. Play some white or pink noise & adjust volume until you get any usable decibel level (80, 90, or 100 work fine).
3. Then turn the main speakers off and the subs on. Use the online calculator to determine what (identical) loudness level per source (sub) will result in the combined dB level you chose above. Then set each individual sub (one at a time) such that their combined loudness equals that of the satellites.
Done.
Of course, if your gear has a room-correction calculator with microphone, just run the room correction with all sub volume knobs set identically, and the electronics will balance the satellites & subs for you.
Boom
Hey Boom, Question, my subs are set up right next to my mains on either side as you've seen. Would locating the db meter at the MLP be desirable as I dove tail in the phase dial w/ white or pink noise?
Hey Boom, Question, my subs are set up right next to my mains on either side as you've seen. Would locating the db meter at the MLP be desirable as I dove tail in the phase dial w/ white or pink noise?
For a more accurate measurement, turn both the low & high pass crossovers on with the same slopes & frequency settings. Then play only the specific frequency that the crossovers are set to (80 Hz. for example) THEN adjust subwoofer phase for the loudest volume.
You could measure from the listening position, but the farther your microphone is from the subs & satellites, the more that the room will play a part in the measurements. This is not good, generally, because a microphone movement of inches can have a HUGE effect on the results.
Another option is to set the phone on the floor, equidistant from both the sub & the satellite (use a ruler, since yours are so close). You may not find much difference in overall loudness, regardless of the phase setting, though... Some people find it easier to set the subs 180 degrees out of phase with the satellites and then adjust for MINIMUM volume. Once that is found, put the subs back to their original phase setting & you've got it.
Everything said, it's a LOT easier to use a room correction program and let it set phase & levels for you. But it CAN be done manually (and with perfect results) if you choose to.
[RANT]And, again, to those who claim that a cell phone microphone is inadequate to such measurements, you're just plain wrong. No, the cell phone mic is NOT linear. But you know what? It doesn't matter! Why? Because you're not measuring a band of frequencies - you're measuring only ONE frequency. And if the cell phone mic is off by -10dB at that frequency, it'll be off by the SAME -10dB again and again and again at that same frequency. This isn't rocket science, and I fail to understand why this causes so much confusion. If you're measuring a single frequency, cell phones are perfectly adequate.[/RANT]
In any case, even if you're using room correction, you can adjust it by ear or use the manual method to double-check the room correction. I used the manual method when I tried out my RAIS experiment (redundant array of inexpensive subwoofers), and despite the disparity in driver sizes, brands, sensitivities, and frequency responses, the manual method resulted in all of the subs singing in harmony with excellent results.
Boomzilla
Yamaha disc player / Roon Nucleus One / Library drives Godzilla & Kong / Dragonfly Red DAC iPad (Roon Remote) / Yamaha RX-V6A / Heathkit tube amps / JVC headphones GoldenEar Triton 3+ (used as subs) / SuperCenter XL / Klipsch RP-600m satellites
Hey Boom, Question, my subs are set up right next to my mains on either side as you've seen. Would locating the db meter at the MLP be desirable as I dove tail in the phase dial w/ white or pink noise?
For a more accurate measurement, turn both the low & high pass crossovers on with the same slopes & frequency settings. Then play only the specific frequency that the crossovers are set to (80 Hz. for example) THEN adjust subwoofer phase for the loudest volume.
You could measure from the listening position, but the farther your microphone is from the subs & satellites, the more that the room will play a part in the measurements. This is not good, generally, because a microphone movement of inches can have a HUGE effect on the results.
Another option is to set the phone on the floor, equidistant from both the sub & the satellite (use a ruler, since yours are so close). You may not find much difference in overall loudness, regardless of the phase setting, though... Some people find it easier to set the subs 180 degrees out of phase with the satellites and then adjust for MINIMUM volume. Once that is found, put the subs back to their original phase setting & you've got it.
Everything said, it's a LOT easier to use a room correction program and let it set phase & levels for you. But it CAN be done manually (and with perfect results) if you choose to.
[RANT]And, again, to those who claim that a cell phone microphone is inadequate to such measurements, you're just plain wrong. No, the cell phone mic is NOT linear. But you know what? It doesn't matter! Why? Because you're not measuring a band of frequencies - you're measuring only ONE frequency. And if the cell phone mic is off by -10dB at that frequency, it'll be off by the SAME -10dB again and again and again at that same frequency. This isn't rocket science, and I fail to understand why this causes so much confusion. If you're measuring a single frequency, cell phones are perfectly adequate.[/RANT]
In any case, even if you're using room correction, you can adjust it by ear or use the manual method to double-check the room correction. I used the manual method when I tried out my RAIS experiment (redundant array of inexpensive subwoofers), and despite the disparity in driver sizes, brands, sensitivities, and frequency responses, the manual method resulted in all of the subs singing in harmony with excellent results.
Boomzilla
Thanks Boom, This is more difficult than I thought. First my DAC has the ability to invert the XLR pin 2 hot or negative. Matching it to my Parasound amp I have the DAC using Pin 2 hot. However, according to the DB meter and my ears the RCA active subwoofers are 180 degrees out. The last quarter of phase dial rotation doesn't seem to be audible by both the db meter or my own ears. I used white noise while attempting to dial in the phase between the mains and subs. Don't know if whether the phase issue is common when mixing XLR and RCA or because I'm mixing 12" subwoofers in the mains w/ 10" subwoofers in 4-10s....
I'll try a phone app instead of my db meter next.
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 11:10:47 GMT -5 by Deleted
Thanks Boom, This is more difficult than I thought. First my DAC has the ability to invert the XLR pin 2 hot or negative. Matching it to my Parasound amp I have the DAC using Pin 2 hot. However, according to the DB meter and my ears the RCA active subwoofers are 180 degrees out. The last quarter of phase dial rotation doesn't seem to be audible by both the db meter or my own ears. I used white noise while attempting to dial in the phase between the mains and subs. Don't know if whether the phase issue is common when mixing XLR and RCA or because I'm mixing 12" subwoofers in the mains w/ 10" subwoofers in 4-10s....
I'll try a phone app instead of my db meter next.
The phone app probably won't make any diff. My experience (like yours) is that 66% of the phase dial made little or no difference. The driver size issue is academic, so don't worry about it. I'd also recommend that you not worry about XLR pin inversions. Use a standard XLR cable & see what you get with the electronics at their defaults. But the bottom line is: If you can't hear it then it doesn't matter. In my room I can (sometimes) hear the difference between "in synch" or not between the subs and the satellites, but most of the time not. Why? Because my setup, unlike yours, has some serious distance between the subs and the mains. This means that the room itself probably has more impact on the mix than does the phase. But what I've got sounds great, so I'm not too worried about it.
Boomzilla
PS: You can ROTFLMAO about this one... My sub's currently set at the bottom of a stairwell. I think the stairwell is acting as a giant resonance chamber for the sub because I'm getting a LOT lower bass than this sub should be capable of. I'm not complaining...
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 11:55:15 GMT -5 by Boomzilla
Yamaha disc player / Roon Nucleus One / Library drives Godzilla & Kong / Dragonfly Red DAC iPad (Roon Remote) / Yamaha RX-V6A / Heathkit tube amps / JVC headphones GoldenEar Triton 3+ (used as subs) / SuperCenter XL / Klipsch RP-600m satellites
Am I the only one who saw the first picture and was like, "Ok, yeah that's cool, I guess, but it isn't for me." Then scrolled to the 2nd picture and started salivating?
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 12:08:29 GMT -5 by red5ive
MAIN LG C1 65" | Yamaha Aventage CX-A5200 | Emotiva RPA-2 + XPA-5 + Bas-X A-300 B&W 705 + HTM71 S2 Series | B&W M-1 x 4 (Heights) | Emotiva UAW 8.2 In-Walls PSA XV-15 x 2 | MFW-15 | Samsung UBD-K8500 | Oppo BDP-93
OFFICE HT (aka MANCAVE) LG C1 48" | Yamaha Aventage RX-A2080 | Emotiva BassX A-700 B&W 705 + HTM72 + 707 S2 Series | B&W M-1 x 4 | SVS PB1000 Pro x 2 Samsung UBD-K8500 | PS4 Pro | PS5 | GO PACKERS!
Am I the only one who saw the first picture and was like, "Ok, yeah that's cool, I guess, but it isn't for me." Then scrolled to the 2nd picture and started salivating?
I enjoyed the library(s) as well! Like garbulky I’d like a bigger (and lower) screen and center, but it all looks pretty good 👍
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 16:12:34 GMT -5 by AudioHTIT
Thanks Boom, This is more difficult than I thought. First my DAC has the ability to invert the XLR pin 2 hot or negative. Matching it to my Parasound amp I have the DAC using Pin 2 hot. However, according to the DB meter and my ears the RCA active subwoofers are 180 degrees out. The last quarter of phase dial rotation doesn't seem to be audible by both the db meter or my own ears. I used white noise while attempting to dial in the phase between the mains and subs. Don't know if whether the phase issue is common when mixing XLR and RCA or because I'm mixing 12" subwoofers in the mains w/ 10" subwoofers in 4-10s....
I'll try a phone app instead of my db meter next.
The phone app probably won't make any diff. My experience (like yours) is that 66% of the phase dial made little or no difference. The driver size issue is academic, so don't worry about it. I'd also recommend that you not worry about XLR pin inversions. Use a standard XLR cable & see what you get with the electronics at their defaults. But the bottom line is: If you can't hear it then it doesn't matter. In my room I can (sometimes) hear the difference between "in synch" or not between the subs and the satellites, but most of the time not. Why? Because my setup, unlike yours, has some serious distance between the subs and the mains. This means that the room itself probably has more impact on the mix than does the phase. But what I've got sounds great, so I'm not too worried about it.
Boomzilla
PS: You can ROTFLMAO about this one... My sub's currently set at the bottom of a stairwell. I think the stairwell is acting as a giant resonance chamber for the sub because I'm getting a LOT lower bass than this sub should be capable of. I'm not complaining...
Nice thing bout the phone app I'm using is the ability to adjust the measurement refresh time. Actually reads faster than my db meter which suffers from serious display lag. I'm content now .... on this side of room correction. Appreciate your advice boom.
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2021 12:54:24 GMT -5 by Deleted
