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Post by pdaddy on May 29, 2021 18:50:46 GMT -5
Turning on the device and I see the progress bar load. The line gets to the end and projector screen says XMC1 starting but never boots up. Probably not the only one has had this so welcome any input from the community here.
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Post by ÈlTwo on May 29, 2021 19:23:31 GMT -5
Have you unplugged the unit for about a minute, then pressed the power button with the unit unplugged (discharge the capacitors), and then tried to start the unit again? If not, give it a shot.
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Post by pdaddy on May 29, 2021 19:26:08 GMT -5
TY. I'll give that a try.How long do I need to keep the power button pressed to fully discharge the capacitors?
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Post by pdaddy on May 29, 2021 19:59:11 GMT -5
Still stuck here  |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 4,893
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Post by cawgijoe on May 29, 2021 20:17:48 GMT -5
Unplug for longer than a minute…..try five and see if it reboots.
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Post by ttocs on May 29, 2021 20:32:35 GMT -5
There's a test to see if a few things have failed. Switch off the rear power switch for a couple minutes. Take this time to unplug everything from the HDMI inputs and outputs. Press And Hold the front panel Power Button and simultaneously switch on the Rear Power Switch and keep holding the Power Button until the front display populates with some nifty tests. Now, wait two full minutes before doing anything else, this time is needed for all the doo-dads to FULLY boot up inside the processor. Not waiting the full two minutes can give "false fails". After the two minute wait you can run each test to check the different items. To clear the test mode you'll need to switch off the rear power switch. If that were my XMC-1 I would keep it empty of all HDMI connections and try another boot after waiting for a minute of OFF time. It has happened that "stuck" processors have "come back to life" after running these tests. I really don't think it has as much to do with the tests that can be run vs just all of the time the processor was off and not being connected to any HDMI sources or sinks. I've been frustrated many times with how my Sony TV fouls up things by trying to take over the system, so I've defeated as much as I can find. I truly want a dumb tv, picture only, nuthin' else. No CEC, ARC, nothing. |
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Post by pdaddy on May 30, 2021 7:14:41 GMT -5
Eltwo
How do I run the test once the menu comes up? I followed the steps to the menu list, waited several minutes, and then tried pressing the number on the remote corresponding to the menu option, then the power button turns amber, but it does not seem to reflect a test running.
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Post by ttocs on May 30, 2021 9:25:34 GMT -5
Eltwo How do I run the test once the menu comes up? I followed the steps to the menu list, waited several minutes, and then tried pressing the number on the remote corresponding to the menu option, then the power button turns amber, but it does not seem to reflect a test running. Use the cursor buttons on the front panel. Arrow Down, Up, Right, etc. Right will initiate the test. |
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Post by ÈlTwo on May 30, 2021 9:38:54 GMT -5
The only test I remember is the loop back test:
Here’s a loop back test you can do for a little more troubleshooting,
1. While pressing and holding "E" power button on front of XMC-1, flip power on from the back of the XMC-1.
2. After a couple seconds, list of options should appear on front of unit. Release front power button.
3. IMPORTANT: Before proceeding at this point, please wait a full minute while processor fully boots up. The screen may be active, however, the processor still needs to fully power.
4. After the allotted time has passed, press input 4 on the front panel of the XMC-1 to select the option "Loopback tests". Unit will run tests and will list three pass/fail categories. Please make note of these measurements.
5. After this process is completed, you can then power the unit off on the back and attempt powering it up normally again.
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Post by 405x5 on May 30, 2021 10:41:57 GMT -5
Still Stuck? So long as anything hooked to the XMC is shut completely OFF, the connections should not make any difference. If you haven’t done so, try simply leaving the unit overnight UNPLUGGED with the rear switch on. When you try to boot again, be sure to switch the back to off THEN plug it in, being sure beforehand all your peripherals are powered off. If that fails it’s chat time with tech. support (probably a board failure). Bill |
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Post by ttocs on May 30, 2021 11:03:43 GMT -5
Still Stuck?So long as anything hooked to the XMC is shut completely OFF, the connections should not make any difference. If you haven’t done so, try simply leaving the unit overnight UNPLUGGED with the rear switch on.
When you try to boot again, be sure to switch the back to off THEN plug it in, being sure beforehand all your peripherals are powered off. If that fails it’s chat time with tech. support (probably a board failure).
Bill Sorry, but it does make a difference. HDMI devices can hold voltage for a while and not release the handshake. Some devices are quick - less than 20 seconds, others can hold for much longer. It's good practice to reduce the "chance" to zero. I'll turn this around a little. There are many who say "I was able to do it without doing X", but the question is - is that a 100% certainty without fail? When diagnosing unusual problems, it's very beneficial to completely eliminate any possible anomalies. |
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Post by pdaddy on May 30, 2021 11:44:44 GMT -5
 ECC-1 failed. Thoughts? |
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Post by 405x5 on May 30, 2021 11:50:02 GMT -5
Yep. Call those wonderful folks at EMOTIVA after Memorial Day. |
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Post by foggy1956 on May 30, 2021 12:22:10 GMT -5
Trip to Franklin is in the future. |
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Post by 405x5 on May 30, 2021 12:32:05 GMT -5
Still Stuck?So long as anything hooked to the XMC is shut completely OFF, the connections should not make any difference. If you haven’t done so, try simply leaving the unit overnight UNPLUGGED with the rear switch on.
When you try to boot again, be sure to switch the back to off THEN plug it in, being sure beforehand all your peripherals are powered off. If that fails it’s chat time with tech. support (probably a board failure).
Bill Sorry, but it does make a difference. HDMI devices can hold voltage for a while and not release the handshake. Some devices are quick - less than 20 seconds, others can hold for much longer. It's good practice to reduce the "chance" to zero. I'll turn this around a little. There are many who say "I was able to do it without doing X", but the question is - is that a 100% certainty without fail? When diagnosing unusual problems, it's very beneficial to completely eliminate any possible anomalies. Your point is certainly valid and it COULD make a difference. I would get my XMC “naked” and test it as you say before giving up and shipping it out. In this instance I think it doubtful that it would change anything. I wonder if any HDMI devices were acting up beforehand. That would be an indication that you were right. |
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Post by pdaddy on May 30, 2021 14:10:15 GMT -5
Thanks all for the help to diagnose. I'll ping Emotiva next week. Happy Memorial Day.
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Post by housetech on Jun 1, 2021 12:37:26 GMT -5
Obviously it's not passing boot, post or self-test. The OS is a custom Linux build.
I would disconnect everything from the XMC after removing AC power from the unit, then power up. Disconnect the amp triggers also
If it still does not completely boot, you may need to reset the OS to factory default settings.
I would reconnect: 1. all analogue inputs 2. digital inputs 3. lastly HDMI, testing power-up after each reconnects and last the HDMI output.
May need to download OS version 5.17 (?) to USB stick, page 86 of manual and reinstall if it doesn't boot up.
A pm from Keith about HDMI-
Here are the two situations where a repair MAY to provide a solution.
1) There is an actual HDMI-CEC control chip - which can occasionally fail.
You can actually test this using a self-test.
To do so....
- turn your processor off using the rear panel power switch
- hold down the front panel Standby button WHILE switching the power back on
- this will put the processor into a special test mode
- select LOOPBACK TESTS and then CEC LOOPBACK TEST (the name may be slightly different)
- IF that test fails then your unit has a bad HDMI-CEC control chip (in which case a repair would fix it)
NOTE THAT AT LEAST ONE OTHER LOOPBACK TEST *WILL* FAIL
THIS IS NORMAL (because the unit isn't connected to a test fixture)
WE ARE ONLY INTERESTED IN THE RESULTS OF *THIS* TEST
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