There's nothing especially mysterious about it.
While nowadays there are a few high-power tube amps they were not common at all until recently (and they still tend to be very expensive).
Tube amps also have a VERY low damping factor (the DF on tube amps ranges from 4 to about 8; as compared to 500+ on a typical solid state amp).
This means that the tube amplifier has very little ability to control the motion of a woofer electrically.
It is damping factor that enables an amp to "apply braking force" and prevent a driver from continuing to bounce back and forth and produce sound after the signal stops.
(The effect is the same as the way "electromagnetic braking" works.)
In the old days most speakers were relatively efficient (in order to be able to work with the low-power amplifiers available at the time).
But, since they were designed to work with amplifiers with a very low DF, they had their own mechanical damping.
The speaker didn't expect or need for the amplifier to be able to apply mechanical braking force to the driver.
HOWEVER, when solid state amplifiers came along, it became relatively simple to build amplifiers with plenty of power, and a VERY HIGH damping factor.
(A high damping factor is essentially a "side effect" of how most solid state amplifiers work... and not something that must specifically be designed for.)
Since most modern amps have plenty of power speakers designed to work with newer amps can trade off efficiency for other benefits...
Modern speakers also tend to heavier cones and more powerful "motor mechanisms".
This enables them to move further, and make lower bass, with less distortion, for a given box size.
However speakers designed this way RELY on the amplifier to provide electrical damping to control the cone motion (mostly on the woofer).
Since a high damping factor is normal for modern amplifiers this also works out well for both.
If you drive a vintage speaker, using a modern amplifier, it may well end up being OVER-damped (since the speaker has its own mechanical damping AND the amplifier has a high DF).
This result may be less bass than you expect (because the speaker is not designed to be "tightly controlled").
And, if you drive a modern speaker with a vintage tube amp, or even a modern tube amp, it may end up being UNDER-damped, as well as not being able to play very loudly.
The result there is usually "sloppy" or "boomy" bass... or uneven bass (because the woofer is NOT being controlled tightly by the amplifier as it expects).
(The speaker cone continues to wave around after the signal stops because the amplifier is unable to apply "braking force" to control it as it expects.)
Speakers like the Klipsch LaScala (even the modern versions) are DESIGNED to be used with low-powered tube amps.
Horns are also sort of a special case because their horn loading makes them less sensitive to amplifier damping than ordinary cone speakers in general.
Likewise, electrostatic speakers, which have very little mass, and an entirely different drive method, are not particularly sensitive to damping.
Incidentally, if you WANT to reduce the damping factor of a solid state amplifier, to make it sound more like a tube amp (in terms of damping), it is trivial to do so...
Simply put a 1 Ohm resistor in series with each speaker... and you will have a damping factor similar to the DF of most tube amps.
(If you put a 1 Ohm resistor in series with a 4 Ohm speaker then you have reduced the amplifier's "apparent DF" to around 4.)
(If you put a 1 Ohm resistor in series with a 8 Ohm speaker then you have reduced the amplifier's "apparent DF" to around 8.)
(Be sure to use a nice fat 5 or 10 watt resistor - the resistor will be burning between 1/4 and 1/8 as much power as is going to the speaker.)
You can also experiment with lower values to achieve a result somewhere in-between.
As for preamps and power amps...
Both tube preamps and power amps introduce coloration.
A tube PREAMP will mostly introduce some second harmonic distortion and perhaps a little noise.
A tube POWER AMP amp will also do this, but in addition will add distortion from the output transformers, and have a lower damping factor than a solid state amp.
Therefore, if you want a little bit of "tube sound", but without the transformer distortion, and without the lower damping factor, then pair a tube preamp with a solid state amp.
(In case you hadn't realized... damping factor ONLY describes an interaction between the power amp and the speaker... preamps do not have a "damping factor".)
Tube pre + SS power or SS pre + tube power? IMHO, (and profoundly obviously) it depends on the speakers.
Speakers I’ve found to like tube power:
Big horns
Magnepans
Electrostatics
The majority of box speakers, for some reason like high-wattage (and often high-current) SS amps. Using a tube pre + SS power is a MUCH less expensive option than vice versa.
OTOH, my 12-W Heathkit tube power amps kick the boo-tays of most everything, so who knows?
Boom