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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 2, 2022 1:42:56 GMT -5
Hi, new to the forum. Recently acquired a nice MC700 replacing the UMC200. Huge improvement and I’m very pleased.
It has been turning on two amps via 12v trigger and has worked flawlessly until yesterday. I was fiddling with cable and unplugged and plugged it in while it was turned on now both amps stay on even when the processor is turned off. I’ve unplugged it and plugged it in several times and trying just one amp at a time and have the same problem. All I can figure is that I fried something closed that normally turns off with the unit. I was using a mono splitter so I can have two amps plugged in.
And I only had my speakers hooked up for a couple of days finally seriously using it and I do something to mess it up. Certainly this can be fixed and I already emailed Emotiva about it. Is there anything an owner can recommend? I’ve opened it trying to find any visible problems but haven’t.
Any help is much appreciated!!!
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Post by ttocs on Sept 2, 2022 8:25:44 GMT -5
Have you tried only using one cable between the MC700 and one amp?
If you unplug the cable from the MC700, does the amp stay on, or turn off?
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 2, 2022 14:19:14 GMT -5
I’ve tried using a single cable. when the processor is off the amp turns off only when I unplug the cable, I tried this same thing with both amps. The amp turns back on when I plug cable back in even with the processor off.
Emo emailed me back and said to power both down via rear power switches so they’re disconnected from all power, plug in the cable and try a fresh boot up. Also try loading defaults as well so I will.
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 5, 2022 13:16:29 GMT -5
Tired restoring defaults and it did nothing. I tried going into the menu and turn the trigger off and that also did nothing. I told the guy at emotiva and just waiting on a reply.
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geebo
Emo VIPs 
"Too bad that all the people who know how to run the country are driving taxicabs and cutting hair"
Posts: 24,188
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Post by geebo on Sept 5, 2022 15:58:45 GMT -5
Tired restoring defaults and it did nothing. I tried going into the menu and turn the trigger off and that also did nothing. I told the guy at emotiva and just waiting on a reply. Did you do the rear switch shut down? |
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Post by ttocs on Sept 5, 2022 17:23:49 GMT -5
Try what geebo recommended, turn off the power switch. Does the amp stay on or turn off? If the amp turns off when the processor has no power, then my guess is that the trigger in the processor is stuck in the On position. |
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 6, 2022 15:59:41 GMT -5
Tired restoring defaults and it did nothing. I tried going into the menu and turn the trigger off and that also did nothing. I told the guy at emotiva and just waiting on a reply. Did you do the rear switch shut down? The first thing I did was unplug the unit and take the top off to inspect internal components. Unplugging it and/or using the rear power switch. It made no changes. |
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 6, 2022 16:12:40 GMT -5
M’kay, when I do a rear switch power off the amp turns off, when I turn it back on the amp turns on. Powering up processor and back off does nothing. I took the trigger cable and plugged in my big amp it turned on with processor power off. Same thing happens with rear power switch. Something has been hard closed in the processor
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 7, 2022 13:22:12 GMT -5
Brent at emotiva said he’d send me the schematics so maybe I could try fixing myself but not sure how that’ll go. We’ll see. If not that, 275 is the service price including return shipping. Honestly to me it’s be worth getting it fixed. I love this procesor.
I was thinking of getting the Mc-1 when shopping for a processor but it would be an extra $4-500 for 6 channels that would never get used, plus emotiva hasn’t had them for forever and they barely ever come up for sale used. Tone winner was an option too but too costly.
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Post by ttocs on Sept 7, 2022 14:05:39 GMT -5
Brent at emotiva said he’d send me the schematics so maybe I could try fixing myself but not sure how that’ll go. We’ll see. If not that, 275 is the service price including return shipping. Honestly to me it’s be worth getting it fixed. I love this procesor. I was thinking of getting the Mc-1 when shopping for a processor but it would be an extra $4-500 for 6 channels that would never get used, plus emotiva hasn’t had them for forever and they barely ever come up for sale used. Tone winner was an option too but too costly. I think it's worth fixing also. But something just occurred to me. If the trigger is "On" when the rear power switch is turned off, where is the 12V coming from to make the amp turn on? This shouldn't be able to happen. There's no power. So with only the MC700, with only the one trigger cable plugged into the MC700 and nothing else, the other end of the trigger cable is plugged into one amp, and the power to the MC700 is turned off -or- the power cord is unplugged, how is it possible for the amp to turn on with nothing supplying the 12V for the trigger? |
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pauli
Minor Hero
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Post by pauli on Sept 7, 2022 14:13:25 GMT -5
Brent at emotiva said he’d send me the schematics so maybe I could try fixing myself but not sure how that’ll go. We’ll see. If not that, 275 is the service price including return shipping. Honestly to me it’s be worth getting it fixed. I love this procesor. I was thinking of getting the Mc-1 when shopping for a processor but it would be an extra $4-500 for 6 channels that would never get used, plus emotiva hasn’t had them for forever and they barely ever come up for sale used. Tone winner was an option too but too costly. I think it's worth fixing also. But something just occurred to me. If the trigger is "On" when the rear power switch is turned off, where is the 12V coming from to make the amp turn on? This shouldn't be able to happen. There's no power. So with only the MC700, with only the one trigger cable plugged into the MC700 and nothing else, the other end of the trigger cable is plugged into one amp, and the power to the MC700 is turned off -or- the power cord is unplugged, how is it possible for the amp to turn on with nothing supplying the 12V for the trigger? I don't think he said that. I believe he meant that cycling on/off with the rear switch does nothing to solve the problem, nor does plugging/unplugging from the wall. |
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Post by ttocs on Sept 7, 2022 14:40:54 GMT -5
I think it's worth fixing also. But something just occurred to me. If the trigger is "On" when the rear power switch is turned off, where is the 12V coming from to make the amp turn on? This shouldn't be able to happen. There's no power. So with only the MC700, with only the one trigger cable plugged into the MC700 and nothing else, the other end of the trigger cable is plugged into one amp, and the power to the MC700 is turned off -or- the power cord is unplugged, how is it possible for the amp to turn on with nothing supplying the 12V for the trigger? I don't think he said that. I believe he meant that cycling on/off with the rear switch does nothing to solve the problem, nor does plugging/unplugging from the wall. Thanks for pointing that out, I missed the key statement in a interim post that I glossed over saying "when I do a rear switch power off the amp turns off". Apologies. |
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 7, 2022 20:16:45 GMT -5
👍good stuff.
I have the schematic but since I got it something came to me as well. I had an idea, since I likely won’t be using the IR jacks or USB outlet, if 12v is only applied to that pcb when the unit is powered on then could I remove that board completely and only have the 12v cord running to a plug installed on the back of the unit? That’s assuming the actual board is what’s stuck, or it would make sense that 12v is always on it. Or is that a settings thing. Or would the processor cease to function properly without it? It maybe simpler to try something else😂 the trigger is just so convenient for me
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 8, 2022 14:23:20 GMT -5
Oh never mind, I see the large ribbon connector going from that board to the front panel pcb so it couldn’t be removed, but I still wonder if the 12v going into it could be hard wired to a separate trigger plug. That would be too easy I think
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Post by mrsharpe on Sept 19, 2022 13:44:41 GMT -5
My amp requires a range of 3-30v to trigger on and my other amp has a audio sensing feature. The usb on this gives a 5v signal, couldn’t I use it to trigger the amp on? I haven’t tried it but I have oodles of usb cords I could put a mono plug on!
The auto feature on my multi channel amp is annoying and I don’t want to use it because if there’s only ambient noise during a movie it will make a loud “click” into standby. It’s extremely obvious and distracting when it does. The other amp is powering my center channel and doesn’t turn off during movies.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 19, 2022 22:26:46 GMT -5
Should an internal solution elude you, you could use a ‘workaround’ like this, there is a control outlet, where you’d plug the MC-700 in, and switched outlets where you’d plug in your power amps. When it senses the control outlet is drawing power, it turns on the switched outlets (and visa versa). amazon.com/Smart-Strip-LCG-3MVR-Autoswitching-Technology |
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Post by mrsharpe on Feb 22, 2023 1:03:18 GMT -5
I appreciate it. I instead got a non working unit on eBay hoping that would solve the problem switching the boards. It didn’t.
What it does now, with the replacement board, is with trigger set to on in the menu and the unit off the amp still stays on, it will however turn off for a second while turning the processor on then the amp turns on one the processor is on.
Having the trigger set to off in the menu the amp will be off when the processor is on then then I turn the processor off the amp will turn back on after 5 or so seconds. But turns off if I turn the processor on 🤷♂️
I already loaded defaults and that didn’t change. Just trying to figure out where the problem is before I spend the extra money on sending it to emotiva
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 9,945
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Post by KeithL on Feb 22, 2023 11:55:13 GMT -5
I just happened to notice this thread... and I'm a bit confused.
So... just to clarify something...
A trigger signal is a 12V DC active voltage.
On the MC-700 this output is controlled by a transistor... which is controlled by the main processor...
It is certainly possible that this transistor could become shorted...
Or that the processor could be turning it on when it should not be...
Or it could "get stuck in the on position" if you draw excessive current through it...
But it cannot possibly be sending a 12V trigger signal when the main rear panel power switch on the MC-700 is off.
(A "trigger signal" is not "a relay closure"... but an actual DC voltage that must be supplied by the source.)
Incidentally... for testing purposes...
An LED with the appropriate resistor for 12 VDC can be used to see the status of the trigger output...
And, to test trigger inputs on other devices, you can simply touch the terminals of a "9V radio battery" to the wire (+ to the center pin; - to the shield).
It's also worth noting that some amplifiers may have active or otherwise interesting TRIGGER INPUT circuits...
(Many amps use an opto-isolator or other "simple" trigger input circuit... but not all.)
And, as a result, things may not work correctly if you connect the trigger inputs of two amps to a single trigger output using a splitter...
For example, the trigger input on one amp may pull the level down too low to reliably turn the other amp on...
Or the trigger input on one amp may OUTPUT enough voltage to turn the other amp on...
(And either of these conditions could be "borderline" and so could change from day to day.)
Before anything else you need to test it with each amp individually...
(And, better yet, with a load resistor and neither amp.)
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Post by mrsharpe on Mar 2, 2023 23:29:44 GMT -5
I just happened to notice this thread... and I'm a bit confused. So... just to clarify something... A trigger signal is a 12V DC active voltage. On the MC-700 this output is controlled by a transistor... which is controlled by the main processor... It is certainly possible that this transistor could become shorted... Or that the processor could be turning it on when it should not be... Or it could "get stuck in the on position" if you draw excessive current through it... But it cannot possibly be sending a 12V trigger signal when the main rear panel power switch on the MC-700 is off. (A "trigger signal" is not "a relay closure"... but an actual DC voltage that must be supplied by the source.) Incidentally... for testing purposes... An LED with the appropriate resistor for 12 VDC can be used to see the status of the trigger output... And, to test trigger inputs on other devices, you can simply touch the terminals of a "9V radio battery" to the wire (+ to the center pin; - to the shield). It's also worth noting that some amplifiers may have active or otherwise interesting TRIGGER INPUT circuits... (Many amps use an opto-isolator or other "simple" trigger input circuit... but not all.) And, as a result, things may not work correctly if you connect the trigger inputs of two amps to a single trigger output using a splitter... For example, the trigger input on one amp may pull the level down too low to reliably turn the other amp on... Or the trigger input on one amp may OUTPUT enough voltage to turn the other amp on... (And either of these conditions could be "borderline" and so could change from day to day.) Before anything else you need to test it with each amp individually... (And, better yet, with a load resistor and neither amp.) When the rear panel switch is off the amps turn off. I did use a splitte to turn two amps on a few times and that’s when it started. My main amp needs “no more than 250ma to be triggered on” in the manual. My two parasound amps only require 15ma while my Adcom requires much more. I have plugged my Adcom to my P6 preamp and it turns on normally with using the 12v trigger along with both of my parasounds. I plan on building a small 12v actuated box with a sensitive 1amp 12v relay to turn the amp on once I get the processor sent to emotiva and fixed. After reading your post I do believe I messed up bc one amp has a much simpler circuit than the other when I used the splitter, because it didn’t work properly after I did. It’ll be well worth getting fixed though bc I love this processor!!!! |
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Post by mrsharpe on Nov 4, 2023 11:15:42 GMT -5
I just happened to notice this thread... and I'm a bit confused. So... just to clarify something... A trigger signal is a 12V DC active voltage. On the MC-700 this output is controlled by a transistor... which is controlled by the main processor... It is certainly possible that this transistor could become shorted... Or that the processor could be turning it on when it should not be... Or it could "get stuck in the on position" if you draw excessive current through it... But it cannot possibly be sending a 12V trigger signal when the main rear panel power switch on the MC-700 is off. (A "trigger signal" is not "a relay closure"... but an actual DC voltage that must be supplied by the source.) Incidentally... for testing purposes... An LED with the appropriate resistor for 12 VDC can be used to see the status of the trigger output... And, to test trigger inputs on other devices, you can simply touch the terminals of a "9V radio battery" to the wire (+ to the center pin; - to the shield). It's also worth noting that some amplifiers may have active or otherwise interesting TRIGGER INPUT circuits... (Many amps use an opto-isolator or other "simple" trigger input circuit... but not all.) And, as a result, things may not work correctly if you connect the trigger inputs of two amps to a single trigger output using a splitter... For example, the trigger input on one amp may pull the level down too low to reliably turn the other amp on... Or the trigger input on one amp may OUTPUT enough voltage to turn the other amp on... (And either of these conditions could be "borderline" and so could change from day to day.) Before anything else you need to test it with each amp individually... (And, better yet, with a load resistor and neither amp.) I’d like to thank you for setting me in right direction! The 12v transistor on the power supply was the problem!! I did have a splitter on two different amps from different manufacturers and that more than likely stuck the transistor closed. A simple replace and bing bam boom, the amp triggers on and off line normal again. Before the amp would never turn off but now, still after a few minutes, turns off like it’s supposed to:) I saved $270 doing it my self. And many thanks for steering me in the right direction my friend! |
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