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Post by adaboy on Apr 9, 2023 22:24:44 GMT -5
Well today I noticed that my office amplifier wasn't on today. The amber light around the power button is flickering, when I try to power it on the amber light goes solid I hear clicks then nothing, it goes right baby to flickering.
I've tried it's normal surge protector, and two other separate outlets. No change.
I did notice that when I plug it into an outlet then turn on the rear switch the 230V light turns on solid then switches over to the 115V light which also flickers with the amber power light.
Any thoughts?
I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight to see if that changes anything.
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Post by vcautokid on Apr 10, 2023 6:55:56 GMT -5
Have you isolated the XPA-2 from all connections except power and still get the amber light flickering?
Do you see the panel LED glow red solid, both or a single channel?
Hopefully it is something simple and not the controller saying goodbye.
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Post by adaboy on Apr 10, 2023 12:51:11 GMT -5
Have you isolated the XPA-2 from all connections except power and still get the amber light flickering? Do you see the panel LED glow red solid, both or a single channel? Hopefully it is something simple and not the controller saying goodbye. Yes it is completely isolated. Just tried plugging it back in. Having the same issue. Hopefully it is something emotiva can fix. |
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Post by leonski on Apr 17, 2023 20:38:28 GMT -5
Acting like a bad PS.
Can you get a schematic? Do you have a GOOD tech standing by?
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Post by james04 on Apr 18, 2023 14:51:45 GMT -5
That was the case with mine when it was doing that. Emotiva repaired it under warranty.
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Post by jagman on Aug 7, 2024 22:07:11 GMT -5
I know this is an old post, but did you get an answer? I have the same problem and was told by a local shop that I have two bad caps that are "leaking" and 4 others that are on their way out.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Aug 8, 2024 13:26:26 GMT -5
On our older XPA amps a flickering amber Standby light could indicate a faulty Standby supply (a little 5V power supply module). If that's all that's wrong it should be simple - and relatively cheap - to fix. (One usually replaces the entire little module... ) The big power supply caps do often also go bad eventually... And, if you have one or more that are bad or leaky, it IS a good idea to replace them as a set. For one thing, if one or two are bad, then the others may also be on the way. And, for another thing, newer capacitors will have slightly different specs, and it's better if they all "match". There is one thing to beware of if you're looking inside the amp yourself... (An experienced tech should be able to tell the difference.) The big caps are usually stuck down to the board with a bead of glue around the bottom edge of each capacitor... This glue starts out white or clear but does tend to turn brown over time... And sometimes this gets mistaken for leakage from the capacitors themselves... If you see something leaking around the TOPS of the caps... usually a nasty sort of dark brown... then the caps are definitely leaking. And it may leak from around the bottom, or run down inside the sleeving... But it will almost always be a sort of brown bubbly looking stuff... sort of like burnt spilled coffee. BUT, if you see a smooth bead around the bottom of each cap... Which looks like white glue... only beige or even brown... Then it's probably just the adhesive that was used to glue them down... It is also possible for a capacitor to go bad and NOT leak... Although, if one is leaking, it is DEFINITELY bad, and should be replaced. The only other thing to beware of is that some repair shops will want to automatically "replace all the big caps" The reality is that the life span of these capacitors does vary quite widely... and can vary with things like temperature and humidity... (So, while they are something that commonly fails on older amplifiers, you shouldn't ASSUME that they NEED to be replaced... ) I know this is an old post, but did you get an answer? I have the same problem and was told by a local shop that I have two bad caps that are "leaking" and 4 others that are on their way out. |
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Post by leonski on Aug 8, 2024 21:42:10 GMT -5
According to Nelson Pass, the big PS caps should last 20 or 30 years.
I have a Kenwood integrated, the KA-7100 I bought New 40 or more years ago......and even used it for a while to drive some Magnepans.....
Which is FINE. PS Caps are ELNA and no signs of 'bulging' or 'leaking' or whatever.
I can't find exact duplicates with SAME terminations. If I wanted to change 'em? I'd have to 'improvise' a little.....
Keith KIND OF contradicts himself in his post. First he says 'replace them as a set' than later if one is leaking 'it is Definitely bad and should be replaced'.....
I go with change 'em all at once. From only a tier 1 maker......If your cap is a 105c type, it is important to make the replacements the same temp rating.....
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Aug 8, 2024 22:34:02 GMT -5
Leonski is absolutely correct in making sure you replace with top tier brands.
In terms of the cost, seems excessive. As has been mentioned, the diagnostic fee is usually applied to the total repair cost if you move forward. I would have this conversation again.
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Post by adaboy on Oct 15, 2024 12:38:44 GMT -5
On our older XPA amps a flickering amber Standby light could indicate a faulty Standby supply (a little 5V power supply module). If that's all that's wrong it should be simple - and relatively cheap - to fix. (One usually replaces the entire little module... ) The big power supply caps do often also go bad eventually... And, if you have one or more that are bad or leaky, it IS a good idea to replace them as a set. For one thing, if one or two are bad, then the others may also be on the way. And, for another thing, newer capacitors will have slightly different specs, and it's better if they all "match". There is one thing to beware of if you're looking inside the amp yourself... (An experienced tech should be able to tell the difference.) The big caps are usually stuck down to the board with a bead of glue around the bottom edge of each capacitor... This glue starts out white or clear but does tend to turn brown over time... And sometimes this gets mistaken for leakage from the capacitors themselves... If you see something leaking around the TOPS of the caps... usually a nasty sort of dark brown... then the caps are definitely leaking. And it may leak from around the bottom, or run down inside the sleeving... But it will almost always be a sort of brown bubbly looking stuff... sort of like burnt spilled coffee. BUT, if you see a smooth bead around the bottom of each cap... Which looks like white glue... only beige or even brown... Then it's probably just the adhesive that was used to glue them down... It is also possible for a capacitor to go bad and NOT leak... Although, if one is leaking, it is DEFINITELY bad, and should be replaced. The only other thing to beware of is that some repair shops will want to automatically "replace all the big caps" The reality is that the life span of these capacitors does vary quite widely... and can vary with things like temperature and humidity... (So, while they are something that commonly fails on older amplifiers, you shouldn't ASSUME that they NEED to be replaced... ) I know this is an old post, but did you get an answer? I have the same problem and was told by a local shop that I have two bad caps that are "leaking" and 4 others that are on their way out. Thanks for the reply Keith, I actually had forgotten about it until today. I have the original box would it be possible to send it in for repairs? It's not under warranty. Thanks |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Oct 16, 2024 6:35:58 GMT -5
I actually had forgotten about it until today. I have the original box would it be possible to send it in for repairs? It's not under warranty. Thanks I needed a repair on my old XPA-5 (lost 1 channel), and Emotiva said they no longer service them in house but gave me a place in TX I could send it to that's their preferred repair shop. They also said they would share schematics with any local shop of my choosing so they could fix it. Shipping the beast to TX was pricey, and I decided to just leave it an XPA-4 and use it to drive 4 Atmos height speakers. A local shop would be the way I'd go if I needed repairs (to avoid shipping). Mark |
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Post by 405x5 on Oct 16, 2024 10:19:58 GMT -5
I actually had forgotten about it until today. I have the original box would it be possible to send it in for repairs? It's not under warranty. Thanks I needed a repair on my old XPA-5 (lost 1 channel), and Emotiva said they no longer service them in house but gave me a place in TX I could send it to that's their preferred repair shop. They also said they would share schematics with any local shop of my choosing so they could fix it. Shipping the beast to TX was pricey, and I decided to just leave it an XPA-4 and use it to drive 4 Atmos height speakers. A local shop would be the way I'd go if I needed repairs (to avoid shipping). Mark I once had an amplifier which developed a problem and shortly thereafter, it became an incendiary device…… I would be leery to be honest about keeping a defective amplifier in my system for any reason (just saying) |
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Post by adaboy on Oct 16, 2024 12:39:32 GMT -5
I actually had forgotten about it until today. I have the original box would it be possible to send it in for repairs? It's not under warranty. Thanks I needed a repair on my old XPA-5 (lost 1 channel), and Emotiva said they no longer service them in house but gave me a place in TX I could send it to that's their preferred repair shop. They also said they would share schematics with any local shop of my choosing so they could fix it. Shipping the beast to TX was pricey, and I decided to just leave it an XPA-4 and use it to drive 4 Atmos height speakers. A local shop would be the way I'd go if I needed repairs (to avoid shipping). Mark Thank you for the feedback Mark! Can you please PM me the Texas shop's info? |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Oct 16, 2024 15:42:54 GMT -5
I needed a repair on my old XPA-5 (lost 1 channel), and Emotiva said they no longer service them in house but gave me a place in TX I could send it to that's their preferred repair shop. They also said they would share schematics with any local shop of my choosing so they could fix it. Shipping the beast to TX was pricey, and I decided to just leave it an XPA-4 and use it to drive 4 Atmos height speakers. A local shop would be the way I'd go if I needed repairs (to avoid shipping). Mark Thank you for the feedback Mark! Can you please PM me the Texas shop's info? I'll see if I can find it, but if you call Emotiva - I am sure they will have it. I'll dig into my emails from several months ago to try to find it, though. Mark |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Oct 16, 2024 17:28:48 GMT -5
I needed a repair on my old XPA-5 (lost 1 channel), and Emotiva said they no longer service them in house but gave me a place in TX I could send it to that's their preferred repair shop. They also said they would share schematics with any local shop of my choosing so they could fix it. Shipping the beast to TX was pricey, and I decided to just leave it an XPA-4 and use it to drive 4 Atmos height speakers. A local shop would be the way I'd go if I needed repairs (to avoid shipping). Mark Thank you for the feedback Mark! Can you please PM me the Texas shop's info? I checked my emails, and I must have deleted it after I decided to not pursue the TX solution. But, I'm sure Emotiva will have information on them. I hope you get an easy fix! Mark |
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Post by leonski on Oct 16, 2024 19:26:13 GMT -5
Perhaps see if EMO will shoot you a Sketch-O-Matic? Part numbers for any purchased built assemblies would also be nice.
I'm thinking about any small powersupply such as may be used to drive logic or protection circuitry. Not in the signal path, but
the amp won't be 'right' without it.....
Any AUDIO CLUB near or within range? Those guys would know who could be trusted to fix stuff for 'ya.....We have some fix-it
shops around here, but I'm afraid they are swamped to overflowing with Televisions......
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