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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 5, 2023 23:59:32 GMT -5
Hello Lounge,
I would like to get some tips on my “handshake” issues with my XMC-1. Firstly, I want to thank Emotiva for a great product that I have owned since the UMC-1 coupon waitlist. It has always sounded great, and for a long time I was running only 1080p because I had a very nice Panasonic 60 plasma that I ran until it died. I anticipated needing the 4k board and scored a new one on ebay. I did the install and it worked fine, however there has always been a handshake issue. I mitigated this by training my household to alternate between HDMI 1&2, to get things paired (Firestick and AppleTV). Recently I aquired the latest Firestick Max (I think) and moved the other one elsewhere. To my surprise, the issue got worse.
I have tried both HDMI outputs, and have had all CEC features disabled and there still is no rhyme or reason to how long it takes to establish a connection with the Firestick. Tonight I finally gave in and put the Firestick on the tv and tried to use the ARC feature. Although I was on the ARC input of the XMC-1, and had the output set on the TV for that (LG 4k recent) I could not get sound. After fiddling with both menus no luck. Then I tried optical and it did work but only in stereo. Again I checked the TV’s output settings (bitstream, PCM, and pass through) with no luck getting 5.1. I tried content that I know to be multichannel, so I’m stumped.
As a side note, I did think the picture looked pretty great directly into the tv, although I do miss the visual volume level and the ability to bring up the menu from the XMC-1. I would prefer to have the processor do the switching, but my main goal is to have Firestick load immediately upon starting, for my family’s benefit. I like the Firestick presentation and menus and I have altered it for ad free YouTube which is pretty great. I will probably call Emotiva tomorrow to sort this out but I know there are a lot of savvy folks in here that may have my answer.
Many thanks.
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Post by LuisV on Jun 6, 2023 6:35:46 GMT -5
Did you change the HDMI cables when you switched TVs? Since you have the XMC-1 and a streamer, no need for ARC, connect the streamer to the XMC-1 and then the XMC-1 to the TV with 4k rated HDMI cables. I've been using CableMatter cables with great success in my setup... no handshake issues on either of my OLED TVs. amzn.to/3MVt0qf |
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 6, 2023 8:31:32 GMT -5
Thanks for your feedback LuisV. I just put in a new 8k rated cable, and I thought that would help but maybe it’s a little worse on the handshake weirdly. The picture looks better, as I was having the sparkly white dots issue, now that is gone though.
I did check the info on the Amazon page, no mention of ARC capabilities, maybe it doesn’t do that? I thought it would. Hmmm
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 6, 2023 11:07:09 GMT -5
A couple things, first, you don’t mention if you’re on the latest XMC-1v3 firmware, if not you can find it here. Its possible it could help with the Firestick passing through and/or ARC. Second, you don’t mention what TV you have (sorry, missed LG), and whether you checked it for the latest firmware. I’m not an expert with ARC, but know different companies have different names for it and CEC, which may be needed (at least in part) for ARC to work. I don’t know whether the latest XMC-1 code has the same CEC submenu as the G3Ps, but with them, for ARC, I turn CEC on, and deselect all other options. I didn’t have ARC with my XMC-1, and it only started working for me about a year ago after both TV and processor firmware updates. Whether either of these help, the Emotiva remote app can help when you’re using ARC as it lets you see the units display (with volume, etc) on your phone or tablet. |
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Post by geebo on Jun 6, 2023 11:20:13 GMT -5
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Post by LuisV on Jun 6, 2023 11:51:06 GMT -5
Unless you need to get audio from a TV app or streamer connected to the TV directly, then ARC isn't needed. Any HDMI cable will work for ARC... ARC = Audio Return Channel
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 6, 2023 13:36:38 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I did just check the firmware and I appear to be current (5.15) on the XMC-1, and also the tv via wifi. I’m going with the advice to try the 13 pin eliminator, as I would prefer to use the processor for switching of course. I think that will probably work just fine.
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Post by geebo on Jun 6, 2023 14:03:48 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I did just check the firmware and I appear to be current (5.15) on the XMC-1, and also the tv via wifi. I’m going with the advice to try the 13 pin eliminator, as I would prefer to use the processor for switching of course. I think that will probably work just fine. Let us know how it works out. |
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 6, 2023 15:07:28 GMT -5
Thanks Geebo, I just ordered one thinking that if I put that on the tv end I’m good for both sources. Or would I be better off with on on each source? Hard to know which component isn’t happy!
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Post by geebo on Jun 6, 2023 20:02:04 GMT -5
Thanks Geebo, I just ordered one thinking that if I put that on the tv end I’m good for both sources. Or would I be better off with on on each source? Hard to know which component isn’t happy! You have to connect it to the source before it reaches the XMC. The output of the device is the best place then just plug the HDMI cable into it. If you're getting just one I would try it at the ATV output to see if it helps things for you. It's important to know that even when off the ATV is still sending signals on the CEC line which can play havoc with other devices. And it doesn't matter if CEC is turned off in the device, either. If that doesn't work then try unplugging the HDMI cable from the ATV and install the eliminator at the output of the Firestick and see if it helps. If it does then just get another one for the ATV. |
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Post by widespreadpanic on Jun 7, 2023 20:54:52 GMT -5
My ARC has never worked on my XMC-1, no matter what combination of settings I tried. I ended up using the toslink audio out from my TV to the XMC-1
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 8, 2023 12:15:50 GMT -5
Geebo is King! I did exactly as directed, bought the linked adapter, put it on the AppleTV and problem solved. The theory must be correct that the ATV corrupts the whole system because when I had unplugged the ATV in preparation to install the adapter, Firestick came on by itself from the no connection screen. I power cycled the system with the adapter in and it worked on boot up. Just what I wanted, so many thanks guys and especially to Geebo. Job done!
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 9, 2023 12:41:29 GMT -5
Ok, I spoke too soon. Having thought the problem solved, my system reverted to the same problem the next day. Now I have unplugged the AppleTV entirely and put the adapter on the FireStick, but that doesn’t seem to help either.
Now I just tried no adapter and no ATV, and that didn’t boot either, so I’m back to square one, although cycling inputs 1&2 did work the first time, normally it can stay locked out for three or four turns.
I did also move the hdmi out to non ARC and likewise on the TV. I’ll probably call Emotiva to get their take on things.
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Post by geebo on Jun 14, 2023 11:26:22 GMT -5
Ok, I spoke too soon. Having thought the problem solved, my system reverted to the same problem the next day. Now I have unplugged the AppleTV entirely and put the adapter on the FireStick, but that doesn’t seem to help either. Now I just tried no adapter and no ATV, and that didn’t boot either, so I’m back to square one, although cycling inputs 1&2 did work the first time, normally it can stay locked out for three or four turns. I did also move the hdmi out to non ARC and likewise on the TV. I’ll probably call Emotiva to get their take on things. Sorry it didn't work for you. Those eliminators have fixed a few things for me and I was pretty confident it would solve your issue. Have you had a chance to call Emotiva yet? |
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 14, 2023 15:16:52 GMT -5
Hi Guys,
So I did call Emotiva and discovered that there is no universal fix as all these components are still “communicating” with each other for the purpose of establishing the handshake. What did come out of the conversation was that the timing of the power on can increase the likelihood of a good connection. Previously I had my firestick and tv plugged into triggered outlets together. So the tv and firestick would come on immediately, and the XMC-1 would follow after it’s boot period which is maybe 40 seconds. Apparently that was enough time for the tv and Firestick to expire their receptiveness if you will.
Now I have the TV on manual IR control and when I turn on the XMC-1, I then pick up the Firestick remote and turn the tv right after that. For some reason this has been working flawlessly for a few days now, so I’m good with it. It is effectively the same for me as I need one remote to turn on the XMC-1, and then the Firestick remote anyway to operate it obviously. The Firestick does have the code for the XMC-1 and I can change the volume with it, but its power button controls the TV, which is convenient.
So, for anyone experiencing similar issues, experimenting with the timing and sequence of the gear in question may solve the problem as it did for me (fingers crossed).
Thanks for the follow up too.
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Post by quattroll2 on Jun 15, 2023 13:38:09 GMT -5
One other note, as I have spent a few days with this new technique working it occurred to me that the timing I described was inaccurate. The triggers fire when the XMC-1 comes on completely. This means that that the XMC-1 is on at the time the TV comes on. My new system has the tv on for the bulk of the load time of the XMC-1. So it’s possible that the tv being “ready” for the signal is what fixes the handshake. FWIW…
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