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Post by Priapulus on Aug 19, 2023 17:34:59 GMT -5
My XPA2 Gen 1 expired. I haven't opened it yet, but I expect bad electrolytic capacitors. I have experience and equipment to do the testing and soldering. My problem is deciding what to buy. The catalogues show a bewildering variety of choices. I intend to replace all the suspect caps, not just the failed one.
1) I want something easily ordered: e.g. Digikey, etc.
2) I want premium capacitors: Vishay, Rubycon, Panasonic? I don't want to revisit this problem again.
3) I don't want audiofoolery, with solid gold wired, platinum plated nonsense.
4) The specs I need are printed on the original parts, but there are so many other choices.
So:
What do I buy? Advice please!
Sincerely
/b
p.s. My Sonic Frontiers II, 16-tube amp, 110 watts, is currently substituting for the XPA2. It works well, but the 16 tubes noticeably warms up the room!
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Aug 21, 2023 6:46:48 GMT -5
My XPA2 expired. I haven't opened it yet, but I expect bad electrolytic capacitors. I have experience and equipment to do the testing and soldering. My problem is deciding what to buy. The catalogues show a bewildering variety of choices. I intend to replace all the suspect caps, not just the failed one. 1) I want something easily ordered: e.g. Digikey, etc. 2) I want premium capacitors: Vishay, Rubycon, Panasonic? I don't want to revisit this problem again. 3) I don't want audiofoolery, with solid gold wired, platinum plated nonsense. 4) The specs I need are printed on the original parts, but there are so many other choices. So: What do I buy? Advice please! Sincerely /b p.s. My Sonic Frontiers II, 16-tube amp, 110 watts, is currently substituting for the XPA2. It works well, but the 16 tubes noticeably warms up the room! Definitely go with high quality name brands such as Nichicon, Vishay, etc. Buy from Mouser, Digikey, etc. Go with the original specs to stay safe. Questions...contact Emotiva for advice. |
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Post by SteveH on Aug 21, 2023 8:10:44 GMT -5
I have re-capped equipment and use premium capacitors, but I purchase higher voltage rated electrolytic capacitors as long as they physically fit the locations. When I remove 16VDC caps, I shop to see if I can fit 25VDC or 50VDC caps. Increasing the working voltage rating of the new capacitors means they experience less stress.
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Aug 21, 2023 11:54:50 GMT -5
I have re-capped equipment and use premium capacitors, but I purchase higher voltage rated electrolytic capacitors as long as they physically fit the locations. When I remove 16VDC caps, I shop to see if I can fit 25VDC or 50VDC caps. Increasing the working voltage rating of the new capacitors means they experience less stress. You would hope you would not have to if the equipment was designed right. On another note, I have EE friends who would never deviate from spec unless it was for higher quality. Having said that, I understand where you are coming from. |
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Post by vcautokid on Aug 21, 2023 16:49:36 GMT -5
Okay hold on a minute here. Seldom do replacing capacitors fix the issue. Are we sure a transistors or resistors or diodes weren't part of the issue. While yes, I advise to recap as a maintenance process of ownership, a full recap may fix the issue maybe at least temporarily. But until you know what the cause of the XPA-2 failing. You may have a nicely recapped amplifier, and not address the issue at all. Can happen, and does. If this is especially a Gen 1, probably due for a recap, and quality is the name of the game.
A reputable source is a must as counterfeits are all over the place. Digikey, and Mouser just two sources I trust.
But back to the first course. What trouble shooting has been done? Are you getting key voltages like standby and so on. Just buying parts alone is no guarantee you will fix the problem. Hopefully it is just a capacitor or a diode that forgot how to conduct business, but at least from this original post we don't know what is going, and what "dead" might mean. It is easy to mix up what is maintenance, and what is the cause of an issue, and if maybe maintenance like replacing caps, or noisy transistors is the way. But you said you have a "dead" XPA-2.
That is a totally different deal there. Before Penny one goes into parts. I would know what are the knowns, and if there is damage what is the true causal. Once you got that, and replaced the defective component(s), then sure absolutely replace those capacitors. While you're at check out DC offset, and quiescent bias too.
I knew techs that threw all kinds of parts into something, and never fixed it. I come in there and do some troubleshooting, and checks, and find some cheap transistor had shorted. Just my humble opinion here.
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Post by vcautokid on Aug 21, 2023 16:54:33 GMT -5
As far as names, Nichicon, and the usual suspects. I am sure others here will chime in too.
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Post by Priapulus on Aug 22, 2023 8:00:18 GMT -5
from this original post we don't know what is going, and what "dead" might mean. 1) It normally lives on standby, and switches on automatically via the enable wire from the XMC-2 2) For a couple of weeks: sometimes, instead of coming on, the power light just blinks on and off (about once per second). Each times it blinks, I can hear relay(s?) switching on-off. After a half dozen tries, it would come on normally and sounds great. I presume it is failing a power-on-test; it probably doesn't like something when the relay closes. Blinking light would suggest microprocessor (if any) is alive. Switching on manually (not enable wire) also fails. 3) Now the same, except it never comes on. It's switched off now. I haven't opened it yet, I have to find a friend strong enough to lift it off the rack... Sincerely, /blair p.s. Has anyone seen a schematic pdf download; XPA2, Gen 1 ? |
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Post by vcautokid on Aug 22, 2023 8:56:01 GMT -5
You would want to contact Emotiva support for schematics for the XPA-2.
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Post by 405x5 on Aug 22, 2023 9:16:55 GMT -5
Hope the OP is prepared to “bench test“ after replacing capacitors, even if you can physically see those that are bad if they are. Otherwise, that’s a lot of effort for a crapshoot, figuratively speaking.
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Post by leonski on Oct 13, 2023 20:25:57 GMT -5
Why are you asking? You have the subject covered, pretty well.
Buy a TIER 1 part....YOU list three, but several others quality. My ancient Kenwood has ELNA which are 30+ years old and fine.
Vac lists Nichicon. I'd add Panasonic Computer Grade.
Maybe a few others......
That's ALL you need worry about. Capacitance. Voltage. Temp rating.
If possible? They make different styles of connection. Some caps will stand up and have screw on connections.
Or face DOWN and solder directly to a circuit board. The solder on? Can be wire or 'flat' tab.....I've seen both.
I'd avoid 'push on' connectors....or solder TO that connector!
DIGIKEY is a great source, but you'll pay top $$$
Here in San Diego we may have someplace ot go, but if I still lived 70 miles north of here, in Orange County?
I'd go to MarVac or a few others......I think once owned by brothers?
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