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Post by esquire on Oct 29, 2009 9:28:01 GMT -5
Are there amps that are more desirable for subwoofers? (A/B, D, G, H, etc)
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 9:43:09 GMT -5
Are there amps that are more desirable for subwoofers? (A/B, D, G, H, etc) For subwoofers it really doesn't matter as you should not be able to hear any differences. Switching amps (class D and its variations) tend to be more efficient, so if you are concerned about saving energy or need to maximize the use of available power, those would be a better choice.
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Post by esquire on Oct 29, 2009 10:25:07 GMT -5
Although efficiency is not a high priority per se and amps being equal in terms of subwoofer SQ, a class D amp seems to be a good choice. Thanks for you insight. Are the new Emo subs powered by class D amps?
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 10:53:12 GMT -5
Make sure those Behringer amps are mounted OUTSIDE of the listening area as those fans can get noisy...
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 11:36:00 GMT -5
After I make sure it works ok I'll probably do the fan mod to quiet it down. Good idea. I had an EP2500 for about a month and got rid of it because of the fans. Mine was really overrated BTW (unless you don't mind your power at 15% THD.)
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 13:38:38 GMT -5
You aren't exaggerating just a wee bit are you? Distortion figures published by Behringer is .1% at rated power - which is 400 watts for the ep1500. I don't think I'll hear that through my subwoofer. No, I measured it. At full ratied output the EP2500 I has was at 15% THD.
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 15:14:57 GMT -5
Well that makes me happy that I'll only be using a single channel driving a 4 ohm load with using maybe 300 watts max. I can also use one channel of input to drive both sides into 8 ohms each. Any suggestions? These are 8 ohm drivers. The Behringer amps represent a good bang for the buck solution if you are not pushing them to their limits. But there are MANY solutions available that are far better amps. If you like the Behringer then by all means use it. Me, I'm currently using a Face Audio F500 as a subwoofer amp. The fans are much quieter than the EP was and the power is very clean out to beyond the rated performance.
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Post by esquire on Oct 29, 2009 16:34:35 GMT -5
Is a crossover essential? If so, is active better than passive and do you have any recommendations?
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 29, 2009 16:39:24 GMT -5
Is a crossover essential? If so, is active better than passive and do you have any recommendations? For a subwoofer amp? No, the amp itself does not need to include a crossover. But there must be a crossover somewhere in the subwoofer system, either as part of the amp, the pre-pro or as a passive in the speaker system. Active crossovers are far more efficient and precise than passive ones, and for subwoofers are usually preferred (if only because the large component values required to build a subwoofer passive Xover make it a very expensive proposition.) As far as recomendations, I use the crossover built into my pre-pro.
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Post by esquire on Oct 30, 2009 10:24:07 GMT -5
Thanks dyohn. So is there redundancy when you have a pre-pro crossover for subs and the sub has a built in crossover albeit passive?
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Oct 30, 2009 12:59:58 GMT -5
Yes, stacking crossovers (two in series at about the same setting) will cause the overall system Xover slope to shift, usually becoming steeper. If your subwoofer has a built-in passive crossover, it really limits the usability of the system. Do you know what it's specifications are? What's the sub?
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Post by esquire on Oct 30, 2009 14:12:19 GMT -5
I'm on the pre-order list for Emo's twin sub roll-out. (I've been on the list so long I have forgotten the official nomenclature) I also plan to get the UMC-1 or the X series when its available. As subs can be a significant component of a system, both in terms of SQ and money, I am trying to get educated in the subwoofer arena. Thanks to knuckles and dyohn for sharing their infinite wisdom.
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