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Post by sahmen on Apr 25, 2014 11:30:05 GMT -5
You could definitely put the attenuation resistors inline with the adapter cable I pictured and avoid messing with the amp itself entirely. I built the one shown in the review though I have seen others on eBay while not as nice looking still offer the same function. One with attenuation resistors in line would more than likely have to be a custom job that someone would have to build for you or you build it yourself. Thanks benr: I hope you do not mind if I come back with more questions, should the need arise, once I begin working on the amp. I have attempted to use a Sherbourn LDS 2 150 (https://www.audiogeneral.com/sherbourn/lds2_75_brochure.pdf), which I have purchased brand new, as a headphone amp, but the results are mixed: The amp outputs sounds normally through line output into my He-500s, but that sound is understandably anemic (as line outputs sound are typically supposed to be, if I have understood my readings correctly). I have been trying to use the speaker outputs on the amp for my headphones using the "Art HeadTAP" ("ArtCessories Headphone tap [http://www.sweetwater.com/store/media/ARTcs_Specs0303_HeadTAP.pdf]), but I am not able to get any sound to my headphones this way, for some reason that I cannot fathom. The speaker outputs on the LDS 2150 accept only bare wire connections (instead of banana plugs, as the mini-x does), so in order to connect it to the Art HeadTAP, I use 20 awg speaker wires that are connected to two 1/4 pins (for L & R channels), which I then connect to the Art HeadTAP via a Radioshack Y-Adaptor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261437616347?lpid=82).. When I power on the amplifier with the speaker output connections configured this way, the LDS (Load Detection system) LED flashes orange in order to indicate either that there is a problem with the speaker connections, or with the "impedance of the connected speakers" (but there are of course no connected speakers: there is the Art Headtap, and if everything is working correctly, my headphones). Again, my headphones works well with the amp in conjunction with the the Art Headtap, when connected to the Line outputs on the amp. The problem I have outlined above occurs only when I am attempting to use the speaker outputs on the amp. I have spoken to customer support at both Emotiva and Art Headtap, and they both seem to think there is no reason why the speaker outs on the amp should not work well with the Art HeadTAP as desired, so I must be doing something the wrong way. If you have any suggestions or questions, kindly let me know.
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Apr 25, 2014 14:13:15 GMT -5
I'm inclined to agree that the amp should work with the HeadTap without any problem. The amp also shouldn't mind a load that is open, or too high, and should only go into protect for a very low or shorted output. However, from your description, it DOESN'T sound like you have things wired correctly (the proper way doesn't involve a "Y-adapter"). The easiest way to do the wire would be to buy a cheap 1/4" stereo to 1/4" stereo patch cord, cut the connector off one end, strip the wires, and connect them to the amp. You're going to connect the 1/4" STEREO CONNECTOR to the AMPLIFIER PARALLEL IN on the HeadTap. On the other end of that cable, the ground wire is going to go to one of the - SPEAKER OUTPUTs on the amp. Each of the other two (hot) leads is going to go to one of the + SPEAKER OUTPUTS on the amp. (I forget which is left and which is right; you can swap them if it turns out wrong.) You're then going to connect the headphones to EITHER ONE of the headphone outputs on the HeadTap - and leave the switch set to STEREO - and you should be all set. Doing it that way should work fine, and the HeadTap will reduce the level somewhat, and so reduce noise, but it will also reduce the damping factor, which sort of defeats the purpose of using a real amplifier to power your HiFiMans. ---------------------------------------- If you want to avoid reducing the damping factor, then you need to connect the headphones directly to the speaker outputs of the amp. Thanks benr: I hope you do not mind if I come back with more questions, should the need arise, once I begin working on the amp. I have attempted to use a Sherbourn LDS 2 150 (https://www.audiogeneral.com/sherbourn/lds2_75_brochure.pdf), which I have purchased brand new, as a headphone amp, but the results are mixed: The amp outputs sounds normally through line output into my He-500s, but that sound is understandably anemic (as line outputs sound are typically supposed to be, if I have understood my readings correctly). I have been trying to use the speaker outputs on the amp for my headphones using the "Art HeadTAP" ("ArtCessories Headphone tap [http://www.sweetwater.com/store/media/ARTcs_Specs0303_HeadTAP.pdf]), but I am not able to get any sound to my headphones this way, for some reason that I cannot fathom. The speaker outputs on the LDS 2150 accept only bare wire connections (instead of banana plugs, as the mini-x does), so in order to connect it to the Art HeadTAP, I use 20 awg speaker wires that are connected to two 1/4 pins (for L & R channels), which I then connect to the Art HeadTAP via a Radioshack Y-Adaptor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261437616347?lpid=82).. When I power on the amplifier with the speaker output connections configured this way, the LDS (Load Detection system) LED flashes orange in order to indicate either that there is a problem with the speaker connections, or with the "impedance of the connected speakers" (but there are of course no connected speakers: there is the Art Headtap, and if everything is working correctly, my headphones). Again, my headphones works well with the amp in conjunction with the the Art Headtap, when connected to the Line outputs on the amp. The problem I have outlined above occurs only when I am attempting to use the speaker outputs on the amp. I have spoken to customer support at both Emotiva and Art Headtap, and they both seem to think there is no reason why the speaker outs on the amp should not work well with the Art HeadTAP as desired, so I must be doing something the wrong way. If you have any suggestions or questions, kindly let me know.
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Post by esquire on Apr 25, 2014 15:26:25 GMT -5
I'm in...sign me up.
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Post by sahmen on Apr 25, 2014 23:09:22 GMT -5
I'm inclined to agree that the amp should work with the HeadTap without any problem. The amp also shouldn't mind a load that is open, or too high, and should only go into protect for a very low or shorted output. However, from your description, it DOESN'T sound like you have things wired correctly (the proper way doesn't involve a "Y-adapter"). The easiest way to do the wire would be to buy a cheap 1/4" stereo to 1/4" stereo patch cord, cut the connector off one end, strip the wires, and connect them to the amp. You're going to connect the 1/4" STEREO CONNECTOR to the AMPLIFIER PARALLEL IN on the HeadTap. On the other end of that cable, the ground wire is going to go to one of the - SPEAKER OUTPUTs on the amp. Each of the other two (hot) leads is going to go to one of the + SPEAKER OUTPUTS on the amp. (I forget which is left and which is right; you can swap them if it turns out wrong.) You're then going to connect the headphones to EITHER ONE of the headphone outputs on the HeadTap - and leave the switch set to STEREO - and you should be all set. Doing it that way should work fine, and the HeadTap will reduce the level somewhat, and so reduce noise, but it will also reduce the damping factor, which sort of defeats the purpose of using a real amplifier to power your HiFiMans. ---------------------------------------- If you want to avoid reducing the damping factor, then you need to connect the headphones directly to the speaker outputs of the amp. Keith: Thanks for your input. I take it you mean that the correct wiring would involve something resembling Benr's adapter, but with the following modi but with the following modifications: 1. With bare wire connectors (as opposed to banana plugs) if I want to eliminate the HeadTap from the chain and connect the Headphones directly to the amp... Would a cable like this one work, if I cut off the pin connector, strip the wires and connect them to the amp? The challenge here would be for me to identify correctly the ground wires for the L & R stereo connections once the wires are stripped. I hope that wouldn't present another problem. 2. With bare wire connectors and 1/4" pin at the other end if I want to use the HeadTap. - I am willing to try option 1, but everyone seems to suggest that this configuration is best done with some form of attenuation in order to control the headphone volume which would otherwise be too unregulated and prone to getting too dangerously loud too quickly... What options of attenuation would I have to go with this configuration (if I prefer none that would require opening the chassis and messing with the insides of the amp)? -It is the attenuation requirement that made me opt for the HeadTap device, but you mention that the device will also reduce "the damping factor" and compromise the advantages of using the amp. Thanks for letting me know about this, but it makes it all the more important that I find some form of attenuation that would make option 1 work. I'd really appreciate any further thoughts you might have about this, since I'm really eager to have this trial succeed. Thanks again.
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Post by Tungx2 on Feb 16, 2015 17:40:32 GMT -5
I stumbled on this thread on my way to search for the perfect headset amp. I was researching XDA-2 and DC-1. If there's a new amp dedicated to headphones, I'M IN! Hurry!!! I want all my amps to stay within the emotiva family.
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Post by sahmen on Mar 17, 2015 0:22:41 GMT -5
I stumbled on this thread on my way to search for the perfect headset amp. I was researching XDA-2 and DC-1. If there's a new amp dedicated to headphones, I'M IN! Hurry!!! I want all my amps to stay within the emotiva family. I have also been looking forward to hearing an update on this Emo Headphone amp front. My wishlist is simple: 1. A Fully balanced high current SS headphone amp with Class A/AB topology, one that can use both balanced XLR inputs and outputs. I would also rather buy an Emotiva make, than give my money to other competitors in the market... I'm already using the mini=x A-100 , and the Sherbourn LDS 2-150 as headphone amps with speaker taps, and they're both doing fine, but I'd really love to get my hands on an Emo headphone amp... I'll call Emo in the morning to find out what's up with it
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