novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,230
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Post by novisnick on Apr 18, 2016 15:30:27 GMT -5
Well, the Best-Buy-boys are coming on Wednesday to wall mount the TV. Since height is not a concern, I'll have it mounted at eye level. Whole job = $299 (ouch). I guess one doesn't get any "repeat offender discount" there. So this opens up the (perpetual) discussion of "what's the best center?" For my ears (and my volume level), the "entry level" Axiom VP-100 should be fine. I've had one before & it matched the speakers well. The other question that arises (and this is a significant one) is how to integrate the HT electronics with the stereo electronics. Maybe I should just give up & use an AVR? I'd rather not, but otherwise things get complex. Since we don't want to use the "point-one" sub channel on movies, maybe just running the R/L fronts from the "main, full-range" outputs of the Oppo and the rest of the channels from the AVR would simplify things? If only the McIntosh pre had a HT bypass mode! Edit; the McIntosh C2500 has a HT bypass. Brace yourself when you ask the price,,,,,,,,,,,,
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novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,230
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Post by novisnick on Apr 18, 2016 15:57:01 GMT -5
My friend, sometimes size Does matter!!! more clarity, authority and diction! Even at low volume. VP180 Center Channel
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 18, 2016 16:07:56 GMT -5
Had one - It wasn't NEARLY as good a match as the VP-100. Sometimes the fancy models are just there to reel in the fish. Maybe with a LARGE room and with listening at THX volumes, then maybe. But for my room & my volume, I know for a FACT that the VP-100 is the better option.
Remember - we DON'T listen loudly! Dialogue intelligibility is far more important than volume level.
I'm happy with my choice.
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novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,230
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Post by novisnick on Apr 18, 2016 16:34:48 GMT -5
Had one - It wasn't NEARLY as good a match as the VP-100. Sometimes the fancy models are just there to reel in the fish. Maybe with a LARGE room and with listening at THX volumes, then maybe. But for my room & my volume, I know for a FACT that the VP-100 is the better option. Remember - we DON'T listen loudly! Dialogue intelligibility is far more important than volume level. I'm happy with my choice. A rarity for sure and yet another reason to audition gear in your home in your space. Tell all them youngens to learn from their elders!!
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 18, 2016 19:48:22 GMT -5
So here's the current stereo vs. HT plan:
For stereo use: Split the RCA "full-range" output from the Oppo - One leg of the L/R split goes directly to the subs where their plate-amp low-pass filter blends them to the main speakers. The other leg of the Oppo's RCA "full-range" output goes to a Musical Fidelity tube buffer, and from there to the RCA inputs on the XPA-2. Volume will be controlled via the Oppo.
For HT use, the Oppo's first HDMI output goes directly to the TV. The second HDMI output feeds a HK AVR. The AVR's internal amps power the center & surrounds. The HK will be told that there's no R/L fronts and no subs. After initially balancing the HK's center level to the R/L front level (via the XPA-2), the HK volume will never again change. All HT volume control will be done via the Oppo.
In fact, I can "trim" the center & surround levels via the Oppo as well so that the system sings together. For movies, we'll probably leave the subs off since the R/L fronts are running "full range" (as will be the center & surrounds).
So both the Oppo & the HK will be, effectively, lied to by saying that the subs don't exist. But when I want them (for stereo music) all I'll need do is flip their power on. The levels will already be matched to the mains in the initial set-up, and from there on, the Oppo's volume will control both the R/L front and the subs simultaneously.
Having the tube buffer between the Oppo & the XPA-2 will prevent the Oppo's output from trying to source more current than it's capable of, and we should be off to the races (at least in theory)...
Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 21, 2016 8:03:48 GMT -5
OK - Just a feedback - The Best Buy "Geek Squad" guys came by yesterday & hung the TV on the wall. They were everything you'd hope a craftsman hired to work in your home would be - Courteous, Professional, Knowledgable, and willing to work with you to achieve what you had in mind.
Overall, they were well worth their price! They got my TV mounted quickly, ran the wiring through the wall, re-connected all the equipment, tested it, and even tidied up all the rats-nest wiring with zip ties. And despite me (being the cheapskate I am) having bought the "flat" wall mount, they managed, cleverly, to install some bushings so that the TV face is now slightly tilted downward exactly toward the listening position. This also cut out 90% of the screen glare from windows & lamps.
The living room now looks 50% larger, and the better half is much pleased.
Also, last night I tried out the HK AVR. Or at least I tried to - The setup was HDMI out from the Oppo to HDMI in on the receiver. I selected the receiver, and then streamed some stereo music to the Oppo via DLNA over Ethernet. No audio from the HK...
So now in troubleshooting mode:
If stereo audio only arrives at the Oppo's Ethernet input, does the HDMI output of the Oppo carry the signal? If not, then there's the problem right there.
One would think it would have to - If I play a video disc in the Oppo, the HDMI output carries both the audio and video signals, yes?
I don't want video to go through the AVR at all - just audio.
Could I, alternately, use the TOSLINK output of the Oppo & run that to the HK?
I don't want to use the Oppo's analog outputs, because the HK will then re-digitize them for processing & bass management.
The HK, unfortunately, does not have an Ethernet input.
Suggestions?
Thanks - Boomzilla
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Post by mgbpuff on Apr 21, 2016 8:34:02 GMT -5
I assume you have the OPPO HDMI set to 'Split AVR" mode. Otherwise HDMI 2 will not pass unless a video signal is present. Another solution may be to use the OPPO media center instead of the receiver media center. That way both video (menu only) and audio will go through both HDMI out
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 21, 2016 8:42:05 GMT -5
I'll double-check the Oppo HDMI settings, mgbpuff - thanks. I want to avoid the Oppo media center at all costs - interface suuuuuuuuuuuuucks. Thanks again - Boom
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Post by mgbpuff on Apr 21, 2016 8:47:28 GMT -5
Sorry, you said you are using the Oppo for media play. I tried my Oppo 103 in medial mode and it works fine sending both audio and video to the AVR (video is a content/menu screen).
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Post by Percussionista on May 7, 2016 12:39:16 GMT -5
Third alternative; how about on a moveable stand? I noticed Monoprice offering one of these types of stands and went looking on Amazon to see what else was out there. This one (at Amazon) gets 99 reviews averaging 4.8 stars! You can adjust the height to experiment and even move the unit around. Also extra shelves are available.
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Post by Priapulus on May 7, 2016 13:02:20 GMT -5
I bought a fairly expensive wall mount for my 46" TV (mount good for up to 60"). It will swing right out to get at cables. It is balanced and fully adjustable for tilt and angle by just tugging on it, so easily adjustable for seating changes. TV can be shoved against the wall to save space; or pulled out for deeper tilt/angle. I'd never go back to a stand. /b
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Post by Percussionista on May 7, 2016 13:54:11 GMT -5
I bought a fairly expensive wall mount for my 46" TV (mount good for up to 60"). It will swing right out to get at cables. It is fully adjustable for tilt and angle by just tugging on it, so easily adjustable for seating changes. TV can be shoved against the wall to save space; or pulled out for deeper tilt/angle. I'd never go back to a stand. /b I also have a "fairly expensive" and heavy articulating mount (from AV-Express), but it requires mounting to a pair of studs, it's not a single stud mount. I mapped out where the studs were in the bedroom wall where I was considering using this and it's not clear that there are single vertical studs because my "mapping" seems to shift at some point higher up the wall. That wall is not a rectangle but a trapezoid, so the height varies from say 8 to 10 feet. I don't know construction but it is possible that they may have split the uprights with a horizontal beam in order to accommodate the extra height (or my mapping isn't good enough). At the height I was considering mounting the TV the vertical line of studs (nails) seems to shift a bit to the side so I was concerned that I would not be able to sink the bolts into the wall's vertical studs. Actually, this is still a problem even with a single stud mount, if the vertical stud is actually split and shifted. The particular mount we bought allows the TV to articulate left and right which I needed otherwise it would be shifted well over to the right; in order to be centered between L/R speakers the TV has to partially cover a doorway, and then when not in use be shifted over to the right and against the wall. If I mount to a moveable stand I can perform the same shift for when in use or not, and experiment with the height until we are sure it's where we want it. I don't want to order a custom stand for the center until I know the height we will use.
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Post by Priapulus on May 7, 2016 15:24:45 GMT -5
I bought a fairly expensive wall mount for my 46" TV (mount good for up to 60"). It will swing right out to get at cables. It is fully adjustable for tilt and angle by just tugging on it, so easily adjustable for seating changes. TV can be shoved against the wall to save space; or pulled out for deeper tilt/angle. I'd never go back to a stand. /b I also have a "fairly expensive" and heavy articulating mount (from AV-Express), but it requires mounting to a pair of studs, it's not a single stud mount. I mapped out where the studs were in the bedroom wall where I was considering using this and it's not clear that there are single vertical studs because my "mapping" seems to shift at some point higher up the wall. That wall is not a rectangle but a trapezoid, so the height varies from say 8 to 10 feet. I don't know construction but it is possible that they may have split the uprights with a horizontal beam in order to accommodate the extra height (or my mapping isn't good enough). At the height I was considering mounting the TV the vertical line of studs (nails) seems to shift a bit to the side so I was concerned that I would not be able to sink the bolts into the wall's vertical studs. Actually, this is still a problem even with a single stud mount, if the vertical stud is actually split and shifted. The particular mount we bought allows the TV to articulate left and right which I needed otherwise it would be shifted well over to the right; in order to be centered between L/R speakers the TV has to partially cover a doorway, and then when not in use be shifted over to the right and against the wall. If I mount to a moveable stand I can perform the same shift for when in use or not, and experiment with the height until we are sure it's where we want it. I don't want to order a custom stand for the center until I know the height we will use. Yes, mine required the sub-frame to be lag-bolted to studs, which I found with a stud finder. The wall-mount can be slid quite a bit left or right, on the sub-frame, allowing you to center the TV. It can never be knocked over. /b
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