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Post by Percussionista on Jan 25, 2017 23:48:48 GMT -5
Perhaps there is a setting in your display adapter software that will allow you to change the output in an attempt to get this working.... I use a Radeon display adapter and it has a very comprehensive control panel i imagine its the same with other brands Aha, progress! I don't know if I will like this, but... using the Nvidia control panel I reset the refresh rate to 30Hz, and the MC700's 4-6-ins work fine with that. Also, the MC700's OSD menu overlays the screen in this mode. So far I haven't noticed any flicker, and the mouse movements seem no worse than before. The real test will be to see how gaming will work at 30Hz (FPS games). It's possible that all this text typing is a little slower to appear on the screen but I may be imagining that .
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Post by socketman on Jan 26, 2017 0:07:40 GMT -5
If you are sending 1080P at 60hz you should have no problem getting a picture. Using that setting for a movie will be fine 24hz if your using it as an actual htpc. I would try some newer drivers for your display adapter if any are available. They are working on this stuff all the time.
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Post by GTPlus on Jan 26, 2017 0:15:05 GMT -5
Perhaps there is a setting in your display adapter software that will allow you to change the output in an attempt to get this working.... I use a Radeon display adapter and it has a very comprehensive control panel i imagine its the same with other brands Aha, progress! I don't know if I will like this, but... using the Nvidia control panel I reset the refresh rate to 30Hz, and the MC700's 4-6-ins work fine with that. Also, the MC700's OSD menu overlays the screen in this mode. So far I haven't noticed any flicker, and the mouse movements seem no worse than before. The real test will be to see how gaming will work at 30Hz (FPS games). It's possible that all this text typing is a little slower to appear on the screen but I may be imagining that . That seems to agree with the Analog Devices spec limit then. Did you notice if there was a setting on your card for color depth like "YCbCr 4:2:0" That should let you do 60hz. If not limit the bit rate to lower than 16bit and that should also work.
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Post by millst on Jan 26, 2017 2:37:09 GMT -5
But, I see no way to input updates - no USB, no LAN. It has a serial port for updates (it's even labeled as such). Check the picture. Sure, a used XMC-1 is great, but it goes for $1200 and doesn't support HDCP 2.2 until you buy an add-on board. -tm
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Post by cwt on Jan 26, 2017 6:28:37 GMT -5
This appears to be more like the EMP-1 before it was yanked for redesign to add Atmos et. al. Has balanced outs in addition to unbalanced (even two each subs), AM/FM, two each toslink and digital coax in.
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Post by rbk123 on Jan 26, 2017 10:41:45 GMT -5
Different question - sub crossover slope: anyone know where in the menu it can be adjusted? ie. between 12/24 db? I did set the crossover point, but didn't see a slope setting, however my eyes/brain are deteriorating by the hour..
Outlaw looks pretty sharp, but not attractive to me at that price point. Plus quirks and all, I can't wait to get home and turn on my MC700.
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Post by GTPlus on Jan 26, 2017 13:39:41 GMT -5
Different question - sub crossover slope: anyone know where in the menu it can be adjusted? ie. between 12/24 db? I did set the crossover point, but didn't see a slope setting, however my eyes/brain are deteriorating by the hour. Under the setup menu, select speaker setup. there will be distances and X-over slopes.
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Post by harlan on Jan 26, 2017 15:24:28 GMT -5
I was able to make some good progress today. I only have three HDMI sources.
1. SAMSUNG 4K DVD player. Its hooked up to HDMI 1. Initially I could not get any audio. Today I discovered the issue was the DVD player. For some reason the audio was defaulted to the HDMI 2 output. Switched it to HDMI 1 and Im good to go.
2. Comcast hi def DVR. Originally on HDMI 4 so I could use the OSD. Unfortunately once again no audio so I had to use an opitcal connection. The OSD would pop up when the source changed resolutions (?) and it really annoyed my GF. I decided to move it to HDMI 2 to by pass the OSD and low and behold audio.
3. Samsung 9500 4k SUHD TV. Its hooked up through the ARC connections but no audio. I decided since the optical port is now free (see above) I would try an optical connection and low and behold audio.
In #1 above there is definitely an assignable cause, audio outputted through HDMI 2. With the other 2, I have no idea why I wasnt getting audio on HDMI 4 or why ARC through HDMI doesnt work.
My next problem is the BTM1 I purchased looses connection with my tablet after 10 min. Anyone experience this? Could it be I have a defective one?
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Post by Percussionista on Jan 26, 2017 15:34:33 GMT -5
Aha, progress! I don't know if I will like this, but... using the Nvidia control panel I reset the refresh rate to 30Hz, and the MC700's 4-6-ins work fine with that. Also, the MC700's OSD menu overlays the screen in this mode. That seems to agree with the Analog Devices spec limit then. Did you notice if there was a setting on your card for color depth like "YCbCr 4:2:0" That should let you do 60hz. If not limit the bit rate to lower than 16bit and that should also work. For the 970 PC, It allows me to go YCbCr 4:2:2. The default was RGB. So I switched to 4:2:2 and selected 60Hz; the screen blanked and came back as 4:2:2 and 30Hz with no ability at that point to set it above 30Hz. I was able to up the bit depth to 12bit (was 8 bit). There's more shadowing and non-black in the text areas as I'm typing this, so not as "crisp" as before, but the pictures look ok. I think I liked it better at RGB, even with only 8bit, at 30Hz. This is my gaming system, BTW, so I need to test some games at the 30Hz refresh rate. The Windows desktop aspects for this PC is less critical. My (newer) regular PC has a 950 in it, and it appears to allow 4:2:0, but I don't currently intend to run this PC through the surround processor. It goes straight to the TV, and the audio is taken from USB to the DC-1. The 950 is also HDCP 2.2. So... I have a few choices for the 970 machine. I'll see which I like best. If I don't like the 30Hz aspect, I can just go back to RGB/60Hz to the MC700's ins1-3 with no OSD overlay.
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Post by andyman on Jan 26, 2017 15:38:58 GMT -5
I would get rid of the GF and return the BTM1. Just kiddin.😜
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Post by rvsixer on Jan 26, 2017 15:43:32 GMT -5
But, I see no way to input updates - no USB, no LAN. It has a serial port for updates (it's even labeled as such). Check the picture. They should dump the RS-232 that's a PITA, and just use the USB ports for updates (same picture).
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Post by harlan on Jan 26, 2017 16:06:45 GMT -5
I would get rid of the GF and return the BTM1. Just kiddin.😜 I really like the BTM1 though. I hope it works out 😁
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Post by larryfdx on Jan 26, 2017 16:11:28 GMT -5
I have followed Emotiva for as long as they've been in existence, but when I read about all of the work-arounds just to get sound out of their processor, it frustrates me. I have an Onkyo receiver, nothing special, but I just plug in the HDMI cables and everything works. No nonsense. I wonder why Emotiva processors have historically been so "buggy" in this regard.
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Post by rbk123 on Jan 26, 2017 17:46:56 GMT -5
Different question - sub crossover slope: anyone know where in the menu it can be adjusted? ie. between 12/24 db? I did set the crossover point, but didn't see a slope setting, however my eyes/brain are deteriorating by the hour. Under the setup menu, select speaker setup. there will be distances and X-over slopes. I swear I was in there as I set my sub crossover point, but didn't see the slope. I'll try again this evening, thanks.
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Post by rbk123 on Jan 26, 2017 17:51:53 GMT -5
I have followed Emotiva for as long as they've been in existence, but when I read about all of the work-arounds just to get sound out of their processor, it frustrates me. I have an Onkyo receiver, nothing special, but I just plug in the HDMI cables and everything works. No nonsense. I wonder why Emotiva processors have historically been so "buggy" in this regard. I have 2 Onkyo receivers in my other TV rooms and they work flawlessly - no delays or confusion, ever. So I agree. However - the Emo processor/amp combo sounds soooooooooooo vastly superior, it's not even close, and is the reason why I happily put up with the quirks. Some of the others don't have workarounds and so give up (and rightly so); I'm just grateful I can work around the issues because the performance is well worth it.
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Post by MusicHead on Jan 26, 2017 19:43:30 GMT -5
Under the setup menu, select speaker setup. there will be distances and X-over slopes. I swear I was in there as I set my sub crossover point, but didn't see the slope. I'll try again this evening, thanks. If it is like in the Fusion 8100 you have to scroll down. There is a second page.
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Post by sydhaynes on Jan 26, 2017 20:27:36 GMT -5
My next problem is the BTM1 I purchased looses connection with my tablet after 10 min. Anyone experience this? Could it be I have a defective one? Myself and a couple others (all that have acknowledged using the BTM1 I believe) are experiencing the same drop outs. Either it's an issue with the MC-700 or we all have defective BTM1s.... I've found a new issue, I have my laptop using HDMI 4 and my Directtv satellite box using HDMI 5 as neither are 4K inputs. They both work fine if they are the first HDMI input selected when the MC-700 is powered on, but if I switch between the inputs I lose audio and will have to power cycle the MC-700 to bring audio back.
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Post by harlan on Jan 26, 2017 20:54:19 GMT -5
My next problem is the BTM1 I purchased looses connection with my tablet after 10 min. Anyone experience this? Could it be I have a defective one? Myself and a couple others (all that have acknowledged using the BTM1 I believe) are experiencing the same drop outs. Either it's an issue with the MC-700 or we all have defective BTM1s.... I've found a new issue, I have my laptop using HDMI 4 and my Directtv satellite box using HDMI 5 as neither are 4K inputs. They both work fine if they are the first HDMI input selected when the MC-700 is powered on, but if I switch between the inputs I lose audio and will have to power cycle the MC-700 to bring audio back. The shame is I like how it sounds for the brief time its connected. Do you or anyone for that matter have a recommended alternative? I'm calling Emo tomorrow for an RMA. Eta: funny thing is Keith and Emo CS says they never had any issues with the BTM which marginalizes my experience. Just like our issues being called "trivial".
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 4,908
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Post by cawgijoe on Jan 26, 2017 22:25:25 GMT -5
I have followed Emotiva for as long as they've been in existence, but when I read about all of the work-arounds just to get sound out of their processor, it frustrates me. I have an Onkyo receiver, nothing special, but I just plug in the HDMI cables and everything works. No nonsense. I wonder why Emotiva processors have historically been so "buggy" in this regard. The only processor from Emotiva I have ever owned is the XMC-1. Best sound quality ever. It has not been buggy. I certainly hope that the MC 700 issues that can be fixed will be.
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Post by rbk123 on Jan 26, 2017 22:33:19 GMT -5
I've found a new issue, I have my laptop using HDMI 4 and my Directtv satellite box using HDMI 5 as neither are 4K inputs. They both work fine if they are the first HDMI input selected when the MC-700 is powered on, but if I switch between the inputs I lose audio and will have to power cycle the MC-700 to bring audio back. That's not new; that's a legacy problem with the UMC-1 where it would easily get confused switching between HDMI inputs or if powered on after the HDMI device. Largely gone in the XMC which is why I'm surprised that learning didn't carry to the MC. You have to play around with the sequence you power things on and switch between to find a method that minimizes this sync issue. I have similar problems when I switch between 4, 5, and 6 as you described. Even just within 1 HDMI when I'm switching between recordings on the DVR and live TV. For example - always power on the MC first, then power on the device you want to connect. Don't power the other until shortly before you want to switch to it. Turn the device you switched away from off. etc... It's annoying but you'll find a way to reduce the frequency of it getting out of sync.
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