XPR-5 Unboxing

[DYohn]

Kramer, using those outlets on a 15-amp system? I assume you have each bank fused at 15-amps?

[Deleted]

Jul 7, 2012 11:03:23 GMT -5 DYohn said:

Kramer, using those outlets on a 15-amp system? I assume you have each bank fused at 15-amps?

David i am using them on a 15 amp circuit. I know the outlets can receive 20 amps safely but just cut it down to 15A. It is as easy as replacing the fuses to 20A and having an electrician put in a few dedicated 20 amp lines in my room but i have never tripped a breaker here. And i have cranked it to ear bleeding levels but 99% of the time listen at 90-95 db levels.

To answer you last question. Each bank is separate from each other and is fused for 15 amps.

[DYohn]

Jul 7, 2012 11:09:51 GMT -5 @kraemerkid2119 said:

To answer you last question. Each bank is separate from each other and is fused for 15 amps.

Cool! I like expandability.

[Erwin.BE]

Jul 7, 2012 10:21:29 GMT -5 doc1963 said:

A "proper" 20 amp circuit requires not only a 20 amp breaker and a 20 amp receptacle, but also 12 gauge wire between the two. Please don't think that you can just change the breaker and the receptacle and think you're okay.....

Correct! The main purpose of a breaker is to protect the wires from melting and causing fire. The breaker is designed to be the "weakest" point in the chain. If one sends to much "electricity" through a wire, it will heat up and, in the end, melt.

We have extra protection over here, we call it "differential". Between the main breaker and the circut breakers is a 300mA (if I recall correct, I am no electrician) differential. A sudden fault (ie, like when a kid puts fork in a socket) and the differential jumps (even before the breaker). And whet spaces get a second differential that's 10x more sensitive (30mA) to prevent electrocution from touching. You got that also in USA?

[DYohn]

The similar deice we use in the US is a GFI (ground fault interrupter.)

[suffolk112000]

I knew this would be an issue for most.
Heck, I have an Outlaw 200X7 amp and I elected to put it on a 20amp circuit. I probably didn’t need to, but I knew the behemoth XPR-5 would require a visit from your friendly electrician before running it.

[lar]

Jul 7, 2012 11:20:11 GMT -5 Erwin.BE said:

Jul 7, 2012 10:21:29 GMT -5 doc1963 said:

A "proper" 20 amp circuit requires not only a 20 amp breaker and a 20 amp receptacle, but also 12 gauge wire between the two. Please don't think that you can just change the breaker and the receptacle and think you're okay.....

Correct! The main purpose of a breaker is to protect the wires from melting and causing fire. The breaker is designed to be the "weakest" point in the chain. If one sends to much "electricity" through a wire, it will heat up and, in the end, melt.

We have extra protection over here, we call it "differential". Between the main breaker and the circut breakers is a 300mA (if I recall correct, I am no electrician) differential. A sudden fault (ie, like when a kid puts fork in a socket) and the differential jumps (even before the breaker). And whet spaces get a second differential that's 10x more sensitive (30mA) to prevent electrocution from touching. You got that also in USA?

Strange, after reading this thread, i smell smoke.

[floss]

Jul 7, 2012 11:01:53 GMT -5 DYohn said:

If you want a good 20-amp power conditioner that will not limit current flow, get a Furman P-8 Series II.

Looking for a practical answer here: are what kind of power conditioners you use paramount to the performance of your system? If I connect 2 2400 watt RMS subwoofers to a Belkin PF60, would I be receiving limited performance?

[DYohn]

My recommendation is to never plug amps of any sort into a power conditioner, but if you must then be sure to use the high current outlets.

[jamrock]

Another tweako invention. We need surge protection not power conditioning. Power can flow, stopped or stored but not corrupted. The idea of so called "dirty power" is pure fallacy. The electrons that enters an power conditioner are the same electrons in the same condition that leave the conditioner. Don't waste your money. Plug your amps into an outlet if it is protected, or or a good surge protector ;D

[selkec]

Jul 7, 2012 14:09:52 GMT -5 floss said:

Jul 7, 2012 11:01:53 GMT -5 DYohn said:

If you want a good 20-amp power conditioner that will not limit current flow, get a Furman P-8 Series II.

Looking for a practical answer here: are what kind of power conditioners you use paramount to the performance of your system? If I connect 2 2400 watt RMS subwoofers to a Belkin PF60, would I be receiving limited performance?

not if you use the high current banks. It will be just fine

[floss]

Thanks.

So I contacted 2 electricians to install 2 20A lines. 1 was an independent "C-10 Licensed" electrician and the other a licensed worker from a bigger company. The first quoted $700, which I thought was a little high but somewhat fair considering the distance from the breaker box to our living room (about 100 feet.) He said we could provide the materials and it would end up being $400 for the installation, which would take roughly 6 hours.

The 2nd quoted me $2,500, haha. He was spewing what sounded like BS, mentioning something about how running Romex outside in a conduit is illegal and can't be done for runs longer than 6 feet? He said he would use some other wire, THHN I believe? and with Romex we might run into some grounding issues and end up with hum. Something to that effect. He was a bit arrogant about his credentials and mentioned that any service that quoted a price much cheaper would be unprofessional and unsafe.

So I think i'm gonna go with the first guy, but i'd like to buy the materials myself to save some money. Can somebody with experience installing 20A lines verify what I need? I have a Square D breaker box. After some research, i'm looking to purchase:

1. 12 AWG Romex non-metallic 3 conductor with ground (2 runs, 1 for each breaker)
2. 2 x Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single Pole Circuit Breaker (1 for each 20A line)
3. Leviton 20A receptacle
4. Southwire Liquidtite 1 in. X 100 ft. Ultratite Non-Metallic Conduit (for running the wire outside of the house to the breaker box)

The main thing i'm not sure about is the Romex wire. Do I need a 2, 3, or 4 conductor? I wanna make sure there's no grounding hum issue when everything is said and done.

Am I doing this right?

[monkumonku]

Jul 7, 2012 15:25:15 GMT -5 floss said:

Thanks.

So I contacted 2 electricians to install 2 20A lines. 1 was an independent "C-10 Licensed" electrician and the other a licensed worker from a bigger company. The first quoted $700, which I thought was a little high but somewhat fair considering the distance from the breaker box to our living room (about 100 feet.) He said we could provide the materials and it would end up being $400 for the installation, which would take roughly 6 hours.

The 2nd quoted me $2,500, haha. He was spewing what sounded like BS, mentioning something about how running Romex outside in a conduit is illegal and can't be done for runs longer than 6 feet? He said he would use some other wire, THHN I believe? and with Romex we might run into some grounding issues and end up with hum. Something to that effect. He was a bit arrogant about his credentials and mentioned that any service that quoted a price much cheaper would be unprofessional and unsafe.

So I think i'm gonna go with the first guy, but i'd like to buy the materials myself to save some money. Can somebody with experience installing 20A lines verify what I need? I have a Square D breaker box. After some research, i'm looking to purchase:

1. 12 AWG Romex non-metallic 3 conductor with ground (2 runs, 1 for each breaker)
2. 2 x Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single Pole Circuit Breaker (1 for each 20A line)
3. Leviton 20A receptacle
4. Southwire Liquidtite 1 in. X 100 ft. Ultratite Non-Metallic Conduit (for running the wire outside of the house to the breaker box)

The main thing i'm not sure about is the Romex wire. Do I need a 2, 3, or 4 conductor? I wanna make sure there's no grounding hum issue when everything is said and done.

Am I doing this right?

Maybe that 2nd electrician you interviewed should consider changing careers to start up an audio cable company. ;D

[gmeyer]

12-2 with ground is typically used with 110V outlets.

THHN would typically be used in flexible conduit, but please contact the electrician for a bill of materials to follow code in your area.

[The Mad Norseman]

Jul 7, 2012 15:46:59 GMT -5 monkumonku said:

Jul 7, 2012 15:25:15 GMT -5 floss said:

Thanks.

So I contacted 2 electricians to install 2 20A lines. 1 was an independent "C-10 Licensed" electrician and the other a licensed worker from a bigger company. The first quoted $700, which I thought was a little high but somewhat fair considering the distance from the breaker box to our living room (about 100 feet.) He said we could provide the materials and it would end up being $400 for the installation, which would take roughly 6 hours.

The 2nd quoted me $2,500, haha. He was spewing what sounded like BS, mentioning something about how running Romex outside in a conduit is illegal and can't be done for runs longer than 6 feet? He said he would use some other wire, THHN I believe? and with Romex we might run into some grounding issues and end up with hum. Something to that effect. He was a bit arrogant about his credentials and mentioned that any service that quoted a price much cheaper would be unprofessional and unsafe.

So I think i'm gonna go with the first guy, but i'd like to buy the materials myself to save some money. Can somebody with experience installing 20A lines verify what I need? I have a Square D breaker box. After some research, i'm looking to purchase:

1. 12 AWG Romex non-metallic 3 conductor with ground (2 runs, 1 for each breaker)
2. 2 x Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single Pole Circuit Breaker (1 for each 20A line)
3. Leviton 20A receptacle
4. Southwire Liquidtite 1 in. X 100 ft. Ultratite Non-Metallic Conduit (for running the wire outside of the house to the breaker box)

The main thing i'm not sure about is the Romex wire. Do I need a 2, 3, or 4 conductor? I wanna make sure there's no grounding hum issue when everything is said and done.

Am I doing this right?

Maybe that 2nd electrician you interviewed should consider changing careers to start up an audio cable company. ;D

LOL! - Oh MAN that's GOOD!! ;D
(Hmmm, now where did I put those cable lifters,...?).

[jamrock]

If the 1st guy is licensed and insured, go for it. Otherwise, keep searching ;D

[gmeyer]

GFCI outlets would typically be used for kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors (any place a device could be exposed to water). I am not sure I would use them for my home theater I wouldn't want them to trip in the middle of my movie. Again consult your electrician for code in your area and for installation.

[turbo]

This is so simple but after reading all these post I'm confused..

Here ya go.

15amp breaker = 14/2 wire.....15amp outlet.
20amp breaker = 12/2 wire......20 amp outlet with one blade turned.

Home electrical is VERY easy just shut off your main breaker and do it yourself. I just rewired my entire (old) house in a couple days. If all you are doing is running one line and you have access either through attic or basement don't let an electrician rip you off.

[LCSeminole]

Jul 7, 2012 15:25:15 GMT -5 floss said:

Thanks.

So I contacted 2 electricians to install 2 20A lines. 1 was an independent "C-10 Licensed" electrician and the other a licensed worker from a bigger company. The first quoted $700, which I thought was a little high but somewhat fair considering the distance from the breaker box to our living room (about 100 feet.) He said we could provide the materials and it would end up being $400 for the installation, which would take roughly 6 hours.

The 2nd quoted me $2,500, haha. He was spewing what sounded like BS, mentioning something about how running Romex outside in a conduit is illegal and can't be done for runs longer than 6 feet? He said he would use some other wire, THHN I believe? and with Romex we might run into some grounding issues and end up with hum. Something to that effect. He was a bit arrogant about his credentials and mentioned that any service that quoted a price much cheaper would be unprofessional and unsafe.

So I think i'm gonna go with the first guy, but i'd like to buy the materials myself to save some money. Can somebody with experience installing 20A lines verify what I need? I have a Square D breaker box. After some research, i'm looking to purchase:

1. 12 AWG Romex non-metallic 3 conductor with ground (2 runs, 1 for each breaker)
2. 2 x Square D Homeline 20-Amp Single Pole Circuit Breaker (1 for each 20A line)
3. Leviton 20A receptacle
4. Southwire Liquidtite 1 in. X 100 ft. Ultratite Non-Metallic Conduit (for running the wire outside of the house to the breaker box)

The main thing i'm not sure about is the Romex wire. Do I need a 2, 3, or 4 conductor? I wanna make sure there's no grounding hum issue when everything is said and done.

Am I doing this right?

The licensed electrician that I talked to earlier quoted me rigth around $600 to run two dedicated 20a 120v lines. He also told me if I wanted to save some money I could supply the 12-2 Romex electrical wire, the breaker and outlets and the charge would be in the $300-$350 range, depending on how accessible my attic was.
The expert in the electrical department at Home Depot verified everything the electrician had me buy so I'm pretty comfortable now with the list of supplies that the electrician had me go and buy. I'm sure others here with electrical experience will correct me, but you only need the 12/2 type NM-B Romex with ground, this will have a 3 wires: white/black/ground. Home Depot sells this brand, SouthWire for $66.97 for 250 ft. I only had one breaker slot left to run these dedicated lines so he had me get a tandem 20-20 breaker, and mine is also a Square D breaker. Hope this helped.

[jejaudio]

The Southwire NM conduit will be very hard to work the Romex cables through. The I.D of the conduit is to small for both 12-2 Romex cables to be push through without a major struggle.

One very serious word of caution is that moister and condensation will build up in that (any) conduit. Romex cable was not made for this, and is strongly NOT recommended for conduit use. So ground hums are a real likely hood. The more expensive guy sounds like a jerk , but he did tell you right about not using Romex in a conduit.