LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Oct 11, 2012 19:20:21 GMT -5
Thanks Ronnie, I just wish I had used Amazon for a couple of these hospital grade outlets when I was having the my two dedicated 20a run. I'll just wait and see how well the commercial grade outlets work out and if need be I'll replace them in the future.
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Post by creimes on Oct 11, 2012 21:10:20 GMT -5
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sorbe
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Post by sorbe on Oct 12, 2012 1:00:00 GMT -5
Also, depending on which model you want, you can look here: www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sid=1&sfid=136763&c=7735&search_text=&srch=862366825&page=16But really, these should be <$30, even if you get the ridiculously fancy, hospital grade, 20amp, surge supression, isolated ground, audible alarm, decora duplex style ones WITH status leds, model( 8380-IGO ). www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sfid=136763&i=17095215&c=7735www.ebay.com/itm/Leviton-ISOLATED-Ground-Hospital-Surge-Receptacle-Outlet-ALARM-20A-8380-IGO-/350605226605 <= Same company, cheaper shipping Btw: The electrician contractor / company owner wanted to charge me $120 EACH for these. His bill for running the wire/conduit was a delight too... The alternative though was everything on one 15 amp circuit with lights dimming from inrush current and breakers popping (11.2 speakers in all channel stereo mode) at 85db which was sucking (and dangerous). None of those problems recurred after getting proper breakers/wiring/outlets run.
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Post by creimes on Oct 12, 2012 23:52:39 GMT -5
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sorbe
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Post by sorbe on Oct 12, 2012 23:56:23 GMT -5
Just remember the power draw on the XPR series amplifiers is more than 15a:
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Post by creimes on Oct 13, 2012 0:01:31 GMT -5
Just remember the power draw on the XPR series amplifiers is more than 15a: Unless I win the lottery that series of amplifiers is out my budget even though they are a great price/performance....lol
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Post by airwolf77 on Oct 13, 2012 13:27:14 GMT -5
I'm in the process of rewiring my house (just moved in a few months ago - reno time). Even though you bought the 15A plugs, I'd wire it with 12/2 or 12/3 anyway. It's SOO much easier to change the breaker and plugs later if you want to upgrade to 20amp then having to run new wire as well. Also, having 12 guage will keep the voltage drop to a minimum and allow the max use of your 15amp circuit. Just my 2 cents. I'm in Victoria and I know it's a pain dealing with the Canadian pricing, but the price difference in cable is realatively small at any electrical whole sale company. ie Westburne
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sorbe
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Post by sorbe on Oct 13, 2012 23:07:41 GMT -5
Agree with above comment. Also if you're going to get plugs without surge-suppression, at least have a really good power strip or UPS for your gear.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2012 23:23:00 GMT -5
> 12/3 If you're wiring 12/3 using (kitchen) split plug wiring, it is important that the breakers are on opposite sides of the breaker panel (i.e. one on each leg of the 230v feed). Otherwise your neutral wire will be too small. If you don't understand why, google "kitchen split plug wiring". Sincerely /b
Okay: the reason is that the load on one leg is 180 degrees out of phase to the other leg, so they cancel, leaving only the difference load on the neutral. If both breakers/hot-wires are on the same leg, they add on the common neutral, overloading it.
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Oct 20, 2012 16:27:30 GMT -5
I only paid $12.85 for my "Orange" 20A Hospital Grade Outlet from a local hardware store. I was shocked to hear such high prices by some of the stores you guys shopped at. Hey Ronnie, While I was the Home Depot today I was again looking through the electrical department and found they carried the professional/hospital grade/extra heavy duty industrial grade 20a outlets for $9.98. They aren't right next to the regular 20a outlets but in the same section so anyone looking for these just look for the Orange outlet. The commercial 20a outlets I was using were doing the job but I just had to buy two of these for this price. They'll look impressive to a potential buyer when/if I go to sell my home in the future. ;D I know the picture below doesn't have the "Green Dot" that signifies "hospital grade" but the model listed that I bought at Home Depot does indeed have the "Green Dot" & "Green Triangle"(which signifies an isolated ground). www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100356987/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=leviton+20amp&storeId=10051#.UIMVeoagGSo
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Post by roadrunner on Oct 20, 2012 18:28:44 GMT -5
Nice find, LC. Great price for a Hospital Grade 20A outlet.
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Post by creimes on Oct 20, 2012 22:26:32 GMT -5
WoW, thats a great price indeed, a local electrical supplier here which would be cheaper than a Home Depot or similar home reno store quoted me $51 a plug so yeah Canadian prices are brutal at times....
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2012 23:56:51 GMT -5
I bought 5 of the hospital grade 20A plugs from Rona for $12 each. Is there a rona in Brandon? I haven't been there in a few years, don't know whats out there other than Hustons lol
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Oct 21, 2012 12:07:04 GMT -5
WoW, thats a great price indeed, a local electrical supplier here which would be cheaper than a Home Depot or similar home reno store quoted me $51 a plug so yeah Canadian prices are brutal at times.... $51 for a hospital grade 20a outlet! Now that's a mark up! If it makes you feel better, the commercial grade $3.99 20a outlet worked just fine and I can't hear a difference in sound quality with the new pretty Orange colored 20a hospital outlets, though the Orange color does look cooler and screams I'm better than the commercial outlet in ways we can't explain! ;D
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emovac
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Post by emovac on Oct 21, 2012 12:14:04 GMT -5
iMO, Spec grade receptacles should be more than sufficient for Audio use. It all comes back down to how much $$ you want to expend.
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Post by dcg44s on Oct 21, 2012 13:58:31 GMT -5
WoW, thats a great price indeed, a local electrical supplier here which would be cheaper than a Home Depot or similar home reno store quoted me $51 a plug so yeah Canadian prices are brutal at times.... $51 for a hospital grade 20a outlet! Now that's a mark up! If it makes you feel better, the commercial grade $3.99 20a outlet worked just fine and I can't hear a difference in sound quality with the new pretty Orange colored 20a hospital outlets, though the Orange color does look cooler and screams I'm better than the commercial outlet in ways we can't explain! ;D $51! Holy smokes,I can get a PS Audio Power Port outlet for less than that!
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Post by creimes on Oct 22, 2012 23:27:01 GMT -5
lol.....yeah not sure on the reasoning between price difference's, I purchased 4 15A Hospital Grade in Red.....looks so cool my speakers actually sound better...hhahaha. All joking aside I've started to slowly put the system back together with the limited time I have here and there, I got the wall mount and TV up, now I need to start the rack and wiring/runs for the speakers and such...lots of work ahead... Some pics so far..... sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/527323_10152182039335321_292433067_n.jpg/img]
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Post by creimes on Oct 22, 2012 23:31:34 GMT -5
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Post by slammed on Nov 17, 2012 16:23:35 GMT -5
When I finished my basement I had a theater room built just for watching movies. I'm an electrician so I did all that myself. I ran 3-20 amp isolated grnd circuits just for the gear. The lighting is on its own 15 amp circuit. I'm using on 20 for the UPA-700 and the other two are for my 12" powered subs. I also have another separate 15 amp iso. grnd circuit just for the projector. Would have been so much easier using Rolex,but where I live we use conduit for residential. So everything is in pipe. Also have a whole house surge protector on my panel .Soon as I get all the new stuff installed ill post up some pics. Thinking I might want to try and tackle a fiber optic ceiling in the future too.
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Post by supermac on Nov 17, 2012 20:55:06 GMT -5
I learned a long time ago regarding this sort of thing; it's simple; if you can install now, do it. From your subsequent post, it looks like you can change later but I still, if you can now, do it. For a recent project to re-orient my family room, I the ripped the entire wall right down to the studs and around my fireplace, I ran HDMI, ethernet, phone lines, speaker wire, coax to terminate on both sides of the fireplace so that when my wife says "I think I want the gear on the other side, I simply say, ok.
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