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Post by solarrdadd on Nov 18, 2012 15:17:38 GMT -5
Great! Now, one more question if that's okay. I just checked and my house has plastic boxes with a white, black, and bare wire going to the receptacle. Could a IG receptacle be used in this case and be okay? The bare wire is connected directly to the green lug on my current receptacle.Thanks. This is my situation as well, and if I'm not mistaken it's what he described above as being, "the truest dedicated circuit is 12/2 for 125v/20a because this way, your not sharing a neutral with the other phase (hot) conductor which may say have a blender, a dimmer, electronic ballast or other non linear load on it." I would however like to have "solardadd"'s verification on this. yes, that's fine and legal. just make sure on the platic box with the IG receptacle your using a plastic cover so that it can't become accidentaly energized and float. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 18, 2012 15:19:51 GMT -5
Excellent and Thank You!
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 18, 2012 15:22:30 GMT -5
I've also stickied this thread as we have had many questions about dedicated circuits for our home theaters and there are a lot of legal and "right way to do it" answers!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2012 15:27:26 GMT -5
I'm not sure isolated grounds are a good thing. You end up with two grounds (or more), a recipe for ground loops, which is the very thing you're trying to avoid...
/b
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Post by geebo on Nov 18, 2012 15:31:40 GMT -5
I've also stickied this thread as we have had many questions about dedicated circuits for our home theaters and there are a lot of legal and "right way to do it" answers! Thanks, solardad. Looks like I started this whole thing getting LC concerned for nothing. Sorry 'bout that Laurence. ;D |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 18, 2012 15:35:49 GMT -5
I've also stickied this thread as we have had many questions about dedicated circuits for our home theaters and there are a lot of legal and "right way to do it" answers! Thanks, solardad. Looks like I started this whole thing getting LC concerned for nothing. Sorry 'bout that Laurence. ;D No big deal, this turned into a opportunity for learning, and I'm all for that. I now know a little more about dedicated circuits and isolated grounds.  |
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Post by solarrdadd on Nov 18, 2012 15:36:48 GMT -5
I'm not sure isolated grounds are a good thing. You end up with two grounds (or more), a recipe for ground loops, which is the very thing you're trying to avoid... /b no, if you in fact have two grounds, if the box is metal you connect one ground to the metal box (that's for your mechanical bond) you take the second ground and connect that directly to the isolated ground terminal of the IG outlet. there is no loop because there is only one ground that the IG see's; remember the yolk assembly of the outlet is not connected to the ground terminal, hence the term isolated. so you see, you don't actually have 2 grounds at least not that the equipment will see and it only applies to circuits that have metal boxes. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 18, 2012 15:38:21 GMT -5
I must admit, it is nice and convenient having our own resident Lounge certified electrician to ask these questions. Thank you Solarrdadd!!!
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Post by geebo on Nov 18, 2012 15:46:35 GMT -5
I must admit, it is nice and convenient having our own resident Lounge certified electrician to ask these questions. Thank you Solarrdadd!!! Yes, thank you again. |
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Post by solarrdadd on Nov 18, 2012 15:52:29 GMT -5
that's what i'm here for fellas!
try'n to get in where i fit in!
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Post by slammed on Nov 18, 2012 16:04:09 GMT -5
No double grounding like solardadd said. Just make sure you use an isolated grnd outlet!!!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2012 18:03:17 GMT -5
If this is a ~dedicated~ powerline, what is the isolated ground isolating from? It seems like unnecessary complication and cost to me; with no advantage.
If it's a dedicated line, its ground is already dedicated to that circuit.
Sincerely
/b
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Post by slammed on Nov 18, 2012 19:07:38 GMT -5
If its a dedicated line that has no breaks or splices and goes directly to the panel without any other outlets or devices attached to it then you should have no issues. You'd connect the grnd directly to the outlet itself. I still feel that for the extra couple bucks. The three wire setup for Rolex would be best way. We're i live all residential is in metal conduit so mine is done a little different. The actual conduit is the mechanical ground and my green wire is my isolated ground. One of the main reasons of doing like that in conduit apps is if the conduit connection are compromised( connection not 100% tight you still will have a ground). We use metal boxes on the jobs that we can use Romex in so if and when we would do a dedicated/iso grnd line it would be the three wire configuration.
My house is probably way overkill, but being in the electrical field I figured go overboard. Plus it doesn't hurt that my dad worked for an electrical supply place.
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Post by creimes on Nov 18, 2012 21:44:44 GMT -5
Glad I started this thread haha it has been a great learning tool for sure, I work for a telecommunications company here doing Fiber Optics/TV/Internet and voice install and repair so only low voltage wiring, that high voltage stuff is more unforgiving lol so nice to learn a little more.
Thanks solarrdadd.....
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Post by ncred02 on Sept 1, 2013 6:38:08 GMT -5
I over do everything,
I have a sub panel right behind my rack with three dedicated outlets, hosp grade orange ,
Got the outlets at HD and the sub panel wss a favor
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wally
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Post by wally on Sept 16, 2013 18:51:25 GMT -5
Besides being a musician, a bit of an audiophile, and a licensed electrician (who's working more in electronics and robotics), I have to add:
When cables and recepticles are rated for amperage, that's for max continuous use, (and for getting hot). Not the huge peaks and valleys of music, (BOOM, chucka chucka BOOM, chucka chucka) or even lesser demand of movies (talk, talk, talk, talk, BIG-BANG, talk, talk, talk, talk).
The main differences between residential, commercial and hospital grade receptacles (if you actually call the manufacturers) is;
Residential ones are made for people to plug something in, and leave it there, like a table lamp. They don't take a lot of abuse (usually a flat face made of a cheaper plastic that can break), and don't have a lot of in/out cycle life for the contacts.
Commercial ones, usually have a much more 3-D face, to make it easier/faster to plug into, and are made of a more resilient material and have a much firmer grip, more to hold up longer, (then to pass more current, they're both rated at 15 amps guys). I put in commercial ones for audio/video stuff or anywhere that gets a lot of use like a workbench or kitchen counter.
Hospital grade ones have the same features as the commercial one, but use a different face material that withstands more corrosive environments, and the internal parts are nickel plated to withstand corrosive environments too. There's something with the grounding too, to help it hold up longer for thousands upon thousands of in/out uses. But who unplugs their amps thousands upon thousands of times? It's not a "better" ground, just one that holds up to repetitive use longer. i.e. a hundred times a day...
Hospital grade ones with an isolated ground are for unique times when you run a dedicated ground wire to the panel (and not connect it in the receptacle's box... that defeats it). If you're not running your wires in a metal pipe, that is your ground, there's no advantage in a home.
P.S. BTW shielded power cords aren't for stopping hum and buzz from getting up into your amp up through the power supply, it's heavily filtered then converted to DC anyways. Heck, what's protecting you from the first 1,000 miles from Niagara Falls? You'd make more of a difference by plugging into the next receptacle closer to your panel... What they DO do is cut down the EMI (not RF) from the power cable from interfering with your audio cables. If you at least want to feel like you've done something for RF noise, get a ferrite bead, an inductor that snaps around the cord and kills RF, they're $2.
P.S.S. you guys know the voltage at most homes swings about 5 volts during any given day? Thinking you're getting .0001 more of a volt by using an exotic... well...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2014 11:09:04 GMT -5
So i picked up 2 hospital grade isolated ground sockets for my new rack - 15 amp and a 20 amp one. The electrician came to wire it and said that to have them both in a 2 gang box and it be legal he had to wire the grounds together. He ran a single 4 strand pull back to the sub panel - is this going to work for what I wanted - 2 separate circuits with isolated grounds ? Is there a difference electrically between 2 double strand pulls to the panel and a single 4 strand pull and bonding the isolated grounds in a single wire to the panel ? He also managed to wire a light in the equipment closet and didn't center it in the ceiling - it's off by a few inches  |
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