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DC-1
Jan 16, 2014 15:21:00 GMT -5
Post by sahmen on Jan 16, 2014 15:21:00 GMT -5
What's next? A cup of coffee with a warning that contents may be hot? Oh wait... A cup of coffee with a warning that contents may be wet?  No, no, no! How about a cup of coffee with a warning that the contents may be inside a cup of coffee?...  |
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DC-1
Jan 16, 2014 15:43:02 GMT -5
Post by chaosrv on Jan 16, 2014 15:43:02 GMT -5
What's next? A cup of coffee with a warning that contents may be hot? Oh wait... A cup of coffee with a warning that contents may be wet? Or something like this?  I forgot I took this picture at Whole Foods a few years ago. It still makes me weep for humanity |
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Post by Jim on Jan 16, 2014 15:43:05 GMT -5
Merica, why you so backwards? Also.. 16>1>2014 NOT 1<16>2014 I feel better now. While we're talking about differences, down with the metric system!!  |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jan 16, 2014 18:10:35 GMT -5
All joking aside...I do hope my man-card is not revoked, but I also read the manual and checked the switch before hooking mine up. I live in the US, so I expected it to be set right...so why did I check? I was just concerned that maybe somehow it got switched to the wrong location somehow...like I have often done with the bal/unbal switches on my Emo amps.
And while I am sorry if anyone's sends smoke signals due to not checking, I don't think additional warnings should be required because as others have noted...where would one stop? For example, I think we all know that when putting a new piece of equipment into one's system, it is a good idea to have volume turned down low the first time you use it and then ramp up volume to a reasonable level. At least I do to avoid accidentally getting blown out by too high of a volume or wild noises from an accidental wiring. I don't need a warning on that, either. And, if we need help with connecting wires, we consult the manual to make sure...
Anyway, that is how I feel.
Mark
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DC-1
Jan 16, 2014 21:26:42 GMT -5
Post by novisnick on Jan 16, 2014 21:26:42 GMT -5
I'm with Mark, also, someone was paid good money to write the owners manual. At least check his/her spelling! Also, when I order a new piece of gear, I just am sooooo inpatient that to bide some time Ill read the manual a couple of times just because the new toy is not in my hands!
Peace,
Nick
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DC-1
Jan 17, 2014 17:23:42 GMT -5
Post by yves on Jan 17, 2014 17:23:42 GMT -5
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DC-1
Jan 17, 2014 22:01:45 GMT -5
Post by lsdeep on Jan 17, 2014 22:01:45 GMT -5
hmm, maybe all units should be preset to 220V. if you plug it into 110V it simply does not work and therefore forces you to check if it is set to the right voltage  feeding 110 into 220 setting should not really cause harm, just not work... or am i wrong there? cheers, L |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jan 18, 2014 6:49:35 GMT -5
Then we'd have a huge # of posts titled "My new DC-1 doesn't work" from people who didn't read the manual and didn't flip the switch.  Mark |
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DC-1
Jan 18, 2014 11:27:03 GMT -5
Post by wizardofoz on Jan 18, 2014 11:27:03 GMT -5
Well I have had an update and fortunately the enclosed spare fuse was put in to replace the blown one and all is good....not so for another one that I heard earlier that the guy couldn't open and probably had to send it back for replacing a fuse due to a stripped screw thread or head...USA-hk-USA-hk again, or maybe he just got his money back I don't know.
So many times just a simple warning page on the item or tape over the power socket saying check the voltage...costs bugger all and saves so much support cost.
Anyway I always make sure to check, manual and device printd indications too and for any switches.
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Post by GreenKiwi on Jan 18, 2014 11:42:33 GMT -5
I think tape over the socket simply saying voltage set to X would help.
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hemster
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Particle Manufacturer
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DC-1
Jan 18, 2014 12:06:41 GMT -5
lsdeep likes this
Post by hemster on Jan 18, 2014 12:06:41 GMT -5
I think tape over the socket simply saying voltage set to X would help. IMHO what would really help is an auto-sensing, auto-switching power supply and remove the voltage switch. Problem solved. |
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Post by GreenKiwi on Jan 18, 2014 15:11:37 GMT -5
I completely agree about that
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klinemj
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DC-1
Jan 18, 2014 15:39:55 GMT -5
Post by klinemj on Jan 18, 2014 15:39:55 GMT -5
Wiz...glad to know that if one does not get the right setting that the fuse protects it. As for the other one that the guy stripped the screws trying to change the fuses, I felt bad that he used the wrong tool and stripped the heads (if it's the same one I am thinking of). But honestly...if people can't figure out what tool to use (I.e., the difference between a screwdriver and the heads used on the DC-1's fuse access panel), they shouldn't try the job. And as I recall, Big Dan stepped in to help on that one.
Mark
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Post by paintedklown on Jan 18, 2014 16:42:08 GMT -5
Oddly enough, I checked mine as well. Only for the same reason already mentioned, accidental bumping of the switch. I thought that I may have done it during unboxing or something, before I realized that you actually have to flip the switch, and that it cannot be accidentally changed (at least not very easily, that I can tell). WOZ, Glad that it was just a fuse, and that you are up and running though. |
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DC-1
Jan 18, 2014 16:43:17 GMT -5
Post by dac0964 on Jan 18, 2014 16:43:17 GMT -5
Wiz...glad to know that if one does not get the right setting that the fuse protects it. As for the other one that the guy stripped the screws trying to change the fuses, I felt bad that he used the wrong tool and stripped the heads (if it's the same one I am thinking of). But honestly...if people can't figure out what tool to use (I.e., the difference between a screwdriver and the heads used on the DC-1's fuse access panel), they shouldn't try the job. And as I recall, Big Dan stepped in to help on that one. Mark +1 |
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DC-1
Jan 19, 2014 19:22:56 GMT -5
Post by jeffnyc on Jan 19, 2014 19:22:56 GMT -5
Anyone know the size of the remote screws? Lost one...
Anyone occasionally get static (similar to crackles with vinyl records but more continuous) using USB (but not optical output)? Only happened to me a few times, seems to have cleared up. Perhaps electrical interference?
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klinemj
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DC-1
Jan 19, 2014 20:28:42 GMT -5
Post by klinemj on Jan 19, 2014 20:28:42 GMT -5
Jeffnyc...no idea on screws. Re. The noise...never have that with mine and I use either USB or optical inputs.
Bad cable perhaps?
Mark
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Post by GreenKiwi on Jan 20, 2014 0:12:17 GMT -5
Any chance you have some strong magnets? Might be able to help retrieve the screw.
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DC-1
Jan 20, 2014 23:53:34 GMT -5
Post by lsdeep on Jan 20, 2014 23:53:34 GMT -5
ok, getting away from voltage setting issues etc... so far i used my dc-1 pretty much 'straight out of the box'. obviously adjusted the settings via menu. was all good / still is the speakers play (as one would expect). the sound/ soundstage is still improved to the before setup. anyway, while having not really an issue with the headphone sound as it is, i just thought i set it to flat (on the hardware end, speak dc-1). you know, that i checked it all in manufacturer settings, lets try the complete flat option... like you doctor around to get bitperfect, even if it most of the time really doesn't matter... anyway. had a couple drinks tonite as well. so we (me) are extra careful. no prob with the 2 screws at the back - small phillips, solved. the problem starts with the screws at the left and right. its sure not flat or phillips screwdriver. i might be drinking, but i am not that wasted. means, suggestion of a review about the dc-1 and the provided screwdriver does not help. the hex-tools i have seem to be also a no-fit. don't wanna force anything, plus some vodka's i decided to leave that till 2morrow, to rant about it sober. anyway, any ideas which tools (beside packed screwdriver) will work!? and if hex etc., which size? |
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DC-1
Jan 21, 2014 1:03:20 GMT -5
Post by GreenKiwi on Jan 21, 2014 1:03:20 GMT -5
Interesting... no "sale price" next to the $499.
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